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Old 12-13-2014, 07:05 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Modular batteries for all my toys.

I'm tired of having batteries in sleds and atv's die a cold death in the winter.

I'm making all the batteries in my machines quick detach. Starting with my 08 Skandic SWT (Yeti chassis). This will allow me to bring them someplace warm on cold nights or during extended periods of non-use.

The original battery was a 24 series YUASA. I bought a 30 series, which is what all the newer 4 stroke sleds run. It fits under the seat nicely, although not in the stock location. I'm making it so I can connect either the new battery, old battery or both at the same time. I won't be running the sled with both batteries connected, that will be only when one isn't enough to start the sled.

This is the sled I'm working on. Four stroke V-800 engine.
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This is under the seat with the stock battery removed (it was tucked in under the plastic on the right side).
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Location for the new, bigger battery. Fits nice under the seat.
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Conveniently there's two slots perfect for a bungee to hold the new battery.
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Old 12-13-2014, 07:10 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I'm using modular PowerPole connectors made by Anderson. These are stackable in any configuration. These are 75 amp connectors. They are not male/female type plugs, they will be all the same.

The plugs in various states of assembly. After you slide the two sides together, the roll pin retains them.
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The left is 75 amp, middle is 175 amp and left is 350 amp just for comparison.
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The T&B crimpers work great.
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Nice crimp. I don't like solder so much as it makes the wire stiff where the solder wicks under the insulation.
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Old 12-13-2014, 07:13 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I didn't want to modify the original wiring harness, so I used 1 hole crimp lugs and bolted the extension wires to the chassis wires.

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Both batteries with their jumper wires attached.
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Home made safety rubber to prevent shorting.
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Old 12-13-2014, 07:15 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Now for the three way splitter. Allows me to connect both batteries to the sled. It should have been a four way splitter so I could connect a booster cable to both batteries and the sled. I can either redo it or make my booster cable with three ends. Time will tell.

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Old 12-13-2014, 07:17 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Seconds to disconnect and bring the batteries inside to keep warm and/or connect to a batterytender.

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Old 12-13-2014, 07:29 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Another notable feature of this setup is the ability to start the sled with a strong battery, then attach or re-attach a dead battery and remove the strong battery while the sled is running. Allowing me to drive/charge the dead battery.

Keep in mind that these sleds are electric start only.

Big bad super wide track bush sled and the damn thing is down with a dead battery.

I miss my old TRX250 honda and her kick start. I drove the hell out of that bike for ten years with no battery at all.
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Old 12-13-2014, 09:58 PM   #7 (permalink)
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cool project! Like the idea other than the bungee cords.
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Old 12-14-2014, 02:34 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Weasel View Post
Like the idea other than the bungee cords.
Yeah. A guy should be able to take some 1/4 round stock, bend to in the vice to fit around the battery, then cut it to length and thread both ends so it fits through those slots. Maybe weld a piece of flat bar on it so it isn't pushing hard on one part of the battery, but it probably won't matter. Add washers and some nylocks, dip it in some paint on rubber goo, and call it good.

Bungee cords ain't meant to hold batteries. Or really much of anything.
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Old 12-14-2014, 05:05 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by DirtyComanche View Post
Yeah. A guy should be able to take some 1/4 round stock, bend to in the vice to fit around the battery, then cut it to length and thread both ends so it fits through those slots. Maybe weld a piece of flat bar on it so it isn't pushing hard on one part of the battery, but it probably won't matter. Add washers and some nylocks, dip it in some paint on rubber goo, and call it good.

Bungee cords ain't meant to hold batteries. Or really much of anything.
I guess nobody told ski-doo that. They've been using rubber straps to secure batteries right from the factory for years.

I didn't explain myself very well in my OP. I did this so I can remove my batteries in seconds and bring them inside the ice shack or house when the machines are parked for the night. If the sleds aren't being used, the batteries will be someplace warm, and on a maintainer if available.

I'm not messin with nyloc nuts when I'm on the lake in 30 kms wind at -30.

The bungee holds just fine. When the seat is closed, the battery cannot move up/down at all.

I should also point out that my sled is the new version of this sled:

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Its top speed is about 70 km/h and I rarely go faster than 40 km/h. It's not the kind of sled you jump or bang ditches with.

If you can suggest something else to secure the battery that can be removed in seconds while wearing big mitts I'm listening.
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Old 12-14-2014, 05:45 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I guess it works. Maybe put another angle bracket on the other side of it so it can't possibly slip around?

I'd still rather switch from nylocks to big thumb/wing nuts if you want it to be easy to remove. But that's just me.
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Old 02-17-2019, 04:09 AM   #11 (permalink)
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5 year update.

This has completely solved all my battery problems. Shit starts fantastic even near -40.

I've been pulling my batteries and bringing them inside the ice shack for night time and pulling them when the sleds are on the trailer. Once home I bring them in the shop and sometimes put them on a maintainer.

It's also been handy having loose batteries available for general shop fuckery.
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Old 02-22-2019, 11:58 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Awesome! I do the same thing on my motorcycles, it makes life so much easier.
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