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Old 10-30-2019, 09:18 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Another Allroad C5

I don't know if Expedition is the right place to put this, but it's sure as hell not hardcore 4x4... And maybe someday it'll get a rooftop tent that costs as much as the car did 😂

Back in February of 2012, I drove an AMC Eagle back from Colorado Springs that I found during a work trip to Denver. I sold it in October 2015 after daily driving it at 13 mpg and 100 horsepower through a 3 speed slushbox and I'd loved it. I did almost 12,000 miles on it. It never gave me any significant issues. It was the last daily driven 4x4 I had. I've missed that for fooling around, exploring, wintertime fun, and yes - just repping myself on the road. I love my Mk4 Volkswagens, but it's been time for a change for a while.




Something reminded my that C5 Allroads exist and I started looking. I looked at one locally that had some issues. I messaged and chatted on a couple more in the northeast. I'd much rather put sweat equity into a vehicle than buy something nice because I'm an idiot.
They all had some issues. Un-trustable automatics, drivers door rust, oil leaks, coil spring conversions...

I settled on one that hopefully wouldn't have rust issues, that does have oil leaks and suspension issues, and I bought it sight unseen with a one way ticket to fly & drive back ~2500 miles from Salt Lake City.



I knew it had some sort of halfassed steel spring conversion done, and that it had rear alignment issues. Seller said he quit driving it when rear cords were showing, both rears looked like this after I put about a hundred more miles on it and finally got to take them off.



I found a cheap set of Audi tires on KSL and intended to slap them on, but the 18s it had mounted had both wheel spacers and hub ring adaptors. The lug bolts were too long to run no spacers, and the rings didn't want to come off. I got a hand from JT from Nemesis introducing me to Captain Rob, and we got those aluminum rings off the aluminum spacers and I was on my way home via Moab and Arches NP. I've been around St. George and Sand Hollow but this was my first time beyond the core of SLC.

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#5, Legends #571, UTV codog #901
koh19 crew: 4632
koh18 codog: 901, 4816 - crew: 928, 209, 4610
Mint17 pit crew: 4454, 946, 8199
koh16 codog: 2700 - crew: 572, 928, 4610
koh15 crew: 572


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Old 10-30-2019, 09:20 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I made it up and over Ike and had no issues crossing all the way on 70 to 271 to 90 and home.



The first thing I did was get a used air suspension set on the way, and I've got the rear slapped in.
It leaks down in an hour right now because of not having a proper o-ring in, but it validated what vag-com told me about the system: it's present and still working.

I've got aluminum in stock to turn spacers for the front, and I've got some Delrin on the way for a 1" spacer in the rear.
New front upper control arms are on the way, one on the passenger side is really bad. It's loose in the knuckle with the pinch bolt scary tight, hopefully it's the rod end that's worn and not the knuckle casting, but I'll find out next week when I tear it down.
I'm picking up some tires tonight. 225/70r16 on some Sparco wheels that I think are just the look I'm after.



Then I'll figure out proper spacing and adaptor to get them on there.

The rear suspension toe adjuster is seized on one side, have to deal with that as well.
I just got delivery notification on timing belt kit & tools, and valve cover and cam seals. Looking forward to no more oil leak on headers stink.

Once the suspension is happy, I'll be thinking about power upgrades. When I remember it's not a diesel and I need to spin it faster than 3k I'm quite pleased with it, and I know nothing I do with e85 or K04 turbos is gonna increase power at 2200, so I may just back burner that. But I think a friend of mine has a set of turbos and I know he has a tuned computer from his RS4 2.7T, and I've got another friend who worked at Street Tuned Motorsports for years and knows how to make power on these things with boost and corn, so stupidity may come when I decide to spend more an this than on the real toys.
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#5, Legends #571, UTV codog #901
koh19 crew: 4632
koh18 codog: 901, 4816 - crew: 928, 209, 4610
Mint17 pit crew: 4454, 946, 8199
koh16 codog: 2700 - crew: 572, 928, 4610
koh15 crew: 572


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Old 10-30-2019, 08:13 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Looks so good it was hard to take them off, but I donít have proper rings OR good bolt figments so setting down on them was as much as I was willing to do. Trash wheels are back on now.






Current spacers are 0.610Ē







Little cozy without some shifting of things on the front of the front at full lock. Unsurprising.

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#5, Legends #571, UTV codog #901
koh19 crew: 4632
koh18 codog: 901, 4816 - crew: 928, 209, 4610
Mint17 pit crew: 4454, 946, 8199
koh16 codog: 2700 - crew: 572, 928, 4610
koh15 crew: 572


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Old 11-05-2019, 12:21 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Didnít wrap up timing job tonight as expected. Had some issues on first start, which I did at 90% assembly like a confident idiot.


I did chain guides and got bank 1 intake and exhaust off by 1 tooth. The cam chain tensioner is a fooler. I have a photo of it when I was putting it together and it looks right. It threw codes and didnít run right and I took the cover off and it was off by a tooth. Managed to pull the slave cam and tensioner and fix it without tearing the front of the motor off again. I considered that an accomplishment until I finished it up, filled coolant, and had a gross leak.

Couldnít find. Looked for about 2 hours. It was appearing at the bottom back corner of the block. Iíd accidentally pulled one of two bolts on the crossover tube between the backs of the heads but that wasnít the leak. It HAD to be the thermostat housing. Makes no sense - wrong place for it to dribble. And definitive check means FULL tear down since thatís behind the timing belt.

I pressurized the system in hopes of speeding the leak to better locate, and it sealed up. Weíll see if that lasts but it was leaking with an open cap as I was filling, and it went up to temp sealed now without issue. As for when it cools? Iíll find out.

But worse yet: itís still not running right. Didnít clear up with idle time nor a couple miles driven. Bank 1 is collecting misfires and sounds like a gross exhaust leak. Doesnít sound any different than when cam to cam timing was off. This is the same bank that I was off by a tooth earlier.

Might check compression, but I have zero indication that anything touched. Did 3-4 full revolutions before firing both times, and never had any noises of disaster.

I did have to R&R the ďcombiĒ (EGR If I understand right) valve twice Ė valve cover doesnít clear, and removing tensioner requires full removal Ė but it passes visually, and I canít feel any exhaust leak when idling. And I do hear it. Stethoscope doesnít seem like the exhaust-like sound is coming from that valve either.

Itís even loud in the car under acceleration. It _really_ sounds like an exhaust leak. I donít get it.

Not giving up, but may have to throw to the Audi forums.

Definitely know it intimately now.
The tires are on too. Had to trim 20 bolts

Found that out after bottoming 10 of them in the front knuckles. Hope I didnít take too many miles off the bearings with that dumbassery.

Really was hoping to move on to suspension now and be done with the motor! I did notice that all the front bushings are wasted, so it should really get all arms. Not just the uppers I ordered.

Money pit!
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#5, Legends #571, UTV codog #901
koh19 crew: 4632
koh18 codog: 901, 4816 - crew: 928, 209, 4610
Mint17 pit crew: 4454, 946, 8199
koh16 codog: 2700 - crew: 572, 928, 4610
koh15 crew: 572


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Old 11-05-2019, 12:25 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I was proud of this finangle until it didnít fully solve my issue.

If the cams are indeed in time with each other now, since it was assembled and tensioner with the lock bar in place and isnít throwing codes other than misfire, Iím not sure whatís up.

I could swap coil packs around, but theyíre not original. I really doubt they are the issue. New plugs are same as the old plugs. I didnít touch that turbo at all.
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#5, Legends #571, UTV codog #901
koh19 crew: 4632
koh18 codog: 901, 4816 - crew: 928, 209, 4610
Mint17 pit crew: 4454, 946, 8199
koh16 codog: 2700 - crew: 572, 928, 4610
koh15 crew: 572


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Old 11-05-2019, 09:59 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I realized can check chain tensioner with 2 bolts and the cam position sensor. Pull that cap in 45 seconds, if the intake cam can rock back and forth the tensioner isn't working right in spite of not setting a code. If the cam seems tight, it's almost got to be a combi valve exhaust leak in spite of not being able to feel it.
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#5, Legends #571, UTV codog #901
koh19 crew: 4632
koh18 codog: 901, 4816 - crew: 928, 209, 4610
Mint17 pit crew: 4454, 946, 8199
koh16 codog: 2700 - crew: 572, 928, 4610
koh15 crew: 572


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Old 11-07-2019, 06:55 AM   #7 (permalink)
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on the exhaust leak on those, there's a post-turbine EGT sensor that likes to get loose
right next to the o2 sensor, iirc so it can suck air and make the fuel trims get stupid
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Old 11-07-2019, 07:19 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Cam was tight on that test, I'm driving it with the exhaust leak. Seal is on order, it was days out for anyone local anyway so it'll be here next week from rockauto.

I'm thinking back to when scangauge was cool and how it would be nice to monitor those EGTs since the sensors are right there.

When I threw the rear air struts in I didn't have proper replacement o-rings in hand, I put oversized ones on and face-sealed. It worked but leaked down fast (hours). I replaced the audible leaker right away but ignored the other. Finally did that last night and the rear held air all night, no visible sag.

One of the rear air struts has a nice rattle to it. ebay seller doesn't seems super excited to make it right even though the set of 4 used take outs were "tested" with a 30 day warranty. It's not worth the hit to me to lose 2 way shipping on that deal to come out with nothing. I'll probably just put new rear struts in those bags sometime.

Haven't put the front on air yet. I did just get the new front upper link set, but I noticed while I was working on it that all the lower arm bushings are looking pretty bad too, I've got a bad left axle inner boot, and the boots are bad on the tie rod ends too. Typical 15 year old 200k car stuff. I'll probably deal with all that in the spring. Weather is turning and I've got other things to worry about.
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#5, Legends #571, UTV codog #901
koh19 crew: 4632
koh18 codog: 901, 4816 - crew: 928, 209, 4610
Mint17 pit crew: 4454, 946, 8199
koh16 codog: 2700 - crew: 572, 928, 4610
koh15 crew: 572


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Old 11-07-2019, 01:57 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Partial refund on the way for that bad strut.

Thinking about the wasted bushings on the front lower arms, and whether I should think about fabricating tubular arms with heims, or replace with molded in bushings. For a road car I'm thinking factory replacements are the way to go. Any nay-sayers?
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#5, Legends #571, UTV codog #901
koh19 crew: 4632
koh18 codog: 901, 4816 - crew: 928, 209, 4610
Mint17 pit crew: 4454, 946, 8199
koh16 codog: 2700 - crew: 572, 928, 4610
koh15 crew: 572


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Last edited by Mr. Mindless; 11-07-2019 at 01:58 PM.
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Old 11-07-2019, 05:56 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Mindless View Post

I'm thinking back to when scangauge was cool and how it would be nice to monitor those EGTs since the sensors are right there.
pyro on a gas motor is totally irrelevent except for catalyst heating concerns
the only thing it is used for in airplanes and old racing cars is for a very crude AFR (adjust mixture for peak EGT)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Mindless View Post
Thinking about the wasted bushings on the front lower arms, and whether I should think about fabricating tubular arms with heims, or replace with molded in bushings. For a road car I'm thinking factory replacements are the way to go. Any nay-sayers?
I love the polyurethane LCA bushings on mk4 A chassis cars, bet they're just as drastic an improvement on the B platform
wouldn't go heims in the salt

Last edited by [486]; 11-07-2019 at 05:58 PM.
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