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Old 05-19-2013, 09:17 PM   #976 (permalink)
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x3 on eliminating the mil-spec connectors.
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Old 05-20-2013, 11:22 AM   #977 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Blind Driver View Post
Steal a existing system from a tractor, but you will have to fab hinges in the front of the cab. You may be able to steal those as well.
That's probably where I'd start, yeah. At least to benchmark how the air-ride systems work on OTR trucks. Super-simple concept, I know, but with something I'm going to take off-road, and with overhead clearance issues, there are additional considerations. Decided not to get into that for now. Will start with air-ride seats, and might end up installing some kind of air-ride suspension (axles/chassis). Was looking at some commercial stuff, like these systems Hendrickson makes, military suspension on newer trucks, etc. Will probably end up building something custom, but haven't put much thought into it yet. Low-low-low-priority. Anyway, if I end up doing anything like that, then an air-ride cab would just be redundant.

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Originally Posted by Opossum View Post
WOW just WOW very impressive rig.

Got an idea for ya, just spitballing here. I know it's not at the top of your to do list but you still have to deal with alternators, fan, belts etc and considered making your own pulleys iirc. Being into bikes both mountain and motor and reliability and space being so important I'm surprised you haven't considered going from belts and pulleys to chains and sprockets. One chain and sprocket set will handle more load then a pile of belts while using less space with much more durability.
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Originally Posted by Elwenil View Post
That is probably the most insane suggestion I think I have ever heard.
That's not insane at all. I've actually post about this already. if I can't find a fan-clutch that will fit between the engine and the radiator, think I might end up remote-mounting a fan-clutch. You know, off to the side of the engine. Was thinking more along the lines of serpentine belts on custom pulleys, but there are all kinds of different types of power transmission belts. Guess chains would be another option, but there's probably a reason why they're no used more often. Know that APU I just got has chain-driven accessories.

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Originally Posted by masterkorp View Post
I hate to be Offtopic but what CAD software do you use?

I use linux and love opensource, so obsiously I use FreeCAD, but I would like to try other just for the sake of it.
That's not off-topic at all! I use Solidworks, pretty much exclusively. I do use Bend-Tech Pro for some tube-bending stuff, and Illustrator for some 2D freeform shapes, but that's about it. Best way to get into Solidworks is to get a student license. You can buy it online, costs about $150, is good for 24 months, and includes all the features you'd find in a commercial release. Obviously, it's only intended to personal/education use.

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Originally Posted by chevy_man View Post
I would just find yourself some standard 120/240v connectors that you would normally use. I've had to try and source military specific connectors before and it's insane. Most all the stuff is so long out of production that it needs to be custom manufactured now. Surplus stuff is good if it's unused, but the contacts on plugs and receps do wear and deteriorate over time. Not to mention you'll need to carry a spare of everything.

Your local electrical supply will have all sorts of different plugs/receps that you can make work. I'd recommend going twist-lock on everything so they don't rattle apart.
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Originally Posted by swirvin21 View Post
x2 on eliminating the military connectors... worked on F18s for years in the Corps and those connectors wear out or short often enough to ruin a day or two more than once a year. The pins are so tiny and the male insert pins on the rear become brittle from vibration and either break inside the connector or inside the loom. You'd be time and $$ ahead if you sold them to someone else and used standard 120/240 stuff. They were very cool once upon a time, but now they are just a pain in the ass
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Originally Posted by Helomedic1171 View Post
x3 on eliminating the mil-spec connectors.
Thanks for the advice. Bit out of my depth here, so all input is welcome. Yawan has good sources for mil-surplus electrical stuff, so I'll probably let him decide what to keep and what to replace. Will probably just come down to availability and price.

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Originally Posted by Munchies View Post
I have the wiring diagrams which will be needed as we cant figure out how the damn thing is started with no starter. best guess is via the alternator or the hydro pump?
Please send those over! Would like to forward this to Yawan and then I'll probably end up hauling this little guy over there so he can take a closer look at it. Thanks.
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Old 05-20-2013, 11:50 PM   #978 (permalink)
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the M-88 has a V-12, if I recall, not a turbine like the M1 Abrams. so my guess would be hydro, unless you see a bleed air source of some kind. but even turbines and APUs on Blackhawks have starters.... bleed air for the engines and Hydro for the APU. that's strange that there is no starter.
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Old 05-20-2013, 11:54 PM   #979 (permalink)
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I was thinking something like this: Twist Lock Devices - Plugs and Receptacles - Grainger Industrial Supply


However, you should always be able to find it much cheaper than there. Some of those are insane prices. Just not a lot of places that actually put up pics.
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Old 05-21-2013, 10:11 AM   #980 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Helomedic1171 View Post
the M-88 has a V-12, if I recall, not a turbine like the M1 Abrams. so my guess would be hydro, unless you see a bleed air source of some kind. but even turbines and APUs on Blackhawks have starters.... bleed air for the engines and Hydro for the APU. that's strange that there is no starter.
Just a steel plate for the blockoff.

It has to be started via the big ass alternator/generator. It can start when the main engine (hyrdaulic power) is off... I might run an experiment if I have time...
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Old 05-21-2013, 11:14 AM   #981 (permalink)
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Have you considered a hydraulic drive fan? All the benefits of electric with the power of belt driven.
Don't think that had occurred to me, no. Will have to look into that to see if I can find anything thin enough to fit in there. Good idea! Thanks.
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Just a steel plate for the blockoff.

It has to be started via the big ass alternator/generator. It can start when the main engine (hyrdaulic power) is off... I might run an experiment if I have time...
You're probably right, or maybe an electric/hydraulic pump? Wonder if I can retrofit a regular starter if it turns out to be some super-funky setup?

Please send me a copy of that manual whenever you get a chance. Gonna try to haul that APU down to Yawan's place sometime this week.
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Old 05-21-2013, 02:51 PM   #982 (permalink)
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does it have a hydraulic accumulator to hold pressure for starting? if so, try looking for a hand pump.
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Old 05-21-2013, 07:44 PM   #983 (permalink)
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Not that I can see. The amount of accesory systems and plumbing is staggering. There is an entire school taught for working on this vehicle.
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Old 05-29-2013, 09:14 PM   #984 (permalink)
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Have been working on the mount for the PSC steering cylinder. Spent a little bit of time trying to figure out how removing the one-piece tierod is going to affect the ackermann. The ackermann with the stock one-piece tierod is within 1/2" of the center of the rear bogey when the inside wheel is at full-lock (35-degrees), but using a double-ended steering cylinder with two short tierod links is going to screw that up. All I can do is try to minimize that by mounting the ram as close to the axlehousing as possible.




Also spent a few hours creating a template of the axlehousing. If anyone wants a copy, you can download it here (right click -> save as).




And here's a screen capture with a few random dimensions on it so you can check the scale. Oh, and the vertical line below the origin (red) is the approximate centerline from side-to-side, but I haven't verified any of this stuff yet.




This is where I'm at with the mount. Similar in a lot of ways to others out there (stinkyfab makes a nice one). Saw a nice detail on the mount Tribe4x4 for their ibex, they added little tabs that keep the ram from shifting side-to-side. PSC's 3" Rockwell rams don't have those grooves machined into them for the mounts, so thought that would be a good feature to incorporate. Just need to verify a few last dimensions and add some drain holes and a few other little details.





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Old 05-30-2013, 02:45 AM   #985 (permalink)
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Love your approach to this !
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Old 05-30-2013, 07:05 AM   #986 (permalink)
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I've seen some guy on here use only one end of a double-ended ram to move a one-piece tierod, sort of like a hydro-assist ram but balanced. If Ackerman is that big a concern, would something like that work?

Not sure how the ram was mounted, there was a pic on here somewhere though. Wanna say it was tjmark perhaps.
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Old 05-30-2013, 11:44 AM   #987 (permalink)
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I've seen some guy on here use only one end of a double-ended ram to move a one-piece tierod, sort of like a hydro-assist ram but balanced. If Ackerman is that big a concern, would something like that work?

Not sure how the ram was mounted, there was a pic on here somewhere though. Wanna say it was tjmark perhaps.
Yeah, considered that. Would be easy enough to make a trunnion-mount and had even started designing a mount that would position the ram behind the tierod, with a hole for it to pass-through. Would probably work pretty well. Just started designing this so I could make a comparison and decided to go with it.
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Old 05-30-2013, 08:47 PM   #988 (permalink)
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been following along for quite a while now. great job jesse. always look forward to your updates. how did the pad dry?


came out of the woodwork just to see if the first picture of his last post (#987) is messing with anybody else's eyes? i'd swear that it looks to be vibrating.
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Old 05-30-2013, 10:53 PM   #989 (permalink)
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Thanks for posting. Always neat to hear from people who have been following my projects. Put all this stuff out there and dunno who ends up seeing it. But this build-thread has been crazy-popular. Makes me wonder, you know?

The fab slab seems to be curing well. Hasn't fallen down yet, so that's good. Gonna erect those gate posts sometime next week, than I can start thinking about putting up the roof and the I-beam and trolley deal and all that stuff. Looking for a small shipping container that I can turn into a little workshop storage space behind the pad. Also going to cut a hole in the back wall of the garage and install another big roll-up garage door. Still miss the shop I had up in Bend, but have been working on this thing out in the driveway for the last few years, so having any kind of dedicated workspace is great.
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Old 05-31-2013, 10:56 AM   #990 (permalink)
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always some cool stuff going on here
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Old 06-01-2013, 04:02 PM   #991 (permalink)
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So here I am bothering you again.

How did you digatilazed the shape from the cardboard when making the hydrostatic steering mount ?
I am making some storage mounting for my Patrol, and the floor has some ups and downs that are hard to measure, so I am not able to to a straightforward CAD.
Also if anyone could point me to any documentations (tuturials, whatever will help me get ideas) it would awesome.
Thanks, keep up with the dream build.
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Old 06-01-2013, 05:28 PM   #992 (permalink)
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No bother, that's why I post this stuff.

First I created a template, then I drew that grid on it, then I scanned the template using a regular home office 8.5x11 print/fax/scan/thingy. Since the template was so big, had to scan one section at a time. That's why the gird is there. Then I opened those files up in Illustrator and used the grid and squiggle-marks I'd made to line everything up right. Then I saved that as one image, and imported it into Solidworks using the import picture feature. It allows you to insert an image on any surface or sketch plane. Have been doing that a lot more as I've been designing things like motorcycle fairings and stuff like that. Finding it really helpful to be able to take pictures of something (like a motorcycle) from a few different angles and then use those for reference, right there within the CAD model. Here's a screen capture of an image I took when I was designing a rollcage for my CJ5. The image is obviously only 2D, but the rollcage is 3D. So if I wanted, could take pictures of the jeep from the front/back/top and get a pretty good idea what it would look like from any angle.



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Old 06-02-2013, 11:09 AM   #993 (permalink)
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Makes sense. Have you considered using chalk to draw a grid right on the area you're working with, then photographing it and importing it?

Seems like it'd give you a better (albeit still imperfect) virtual template.
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Old 06-02-2013, 12:06 PM   #994 (permalink)
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Well there are usually a lot of things you can use for reference-points in a picture. Like with that Jeep, I used that image to verify dimensions that I'd taken and plugged into Solidworks. The problem with pictures is the perspective and distortion. Try to minimize that by taking pictures from far away from a position that best approximates the view I want to use in Solidworks, then zoom-in to 'flatten' the image. Here's a screenshot of a few sketches overlaid on top of that image of the CJ5. Can see everything lines up pretty well.




And here's a screenshot that shows how I verified the scale of the rockwell template that I scanned. No concerns about perspective, so I was able to sketch right on top of that image. Essentially tracing it. Couldn't do that with a picture. Note that this screen-shot was taken before I traced the template in Solidworks, so only shows the rough sketch I had made before scanning and importing the template.

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Old 06-20-2013, 01:32 PM   #995 (permalink)
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What's the latest?
I was getting accustomed to the semi-regular updates. Using and abusing?
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Old 06-20-2013, 05:19 PM   #996 (permalink)
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Hah, I wish! Still working away, but not much worth sharing right now. Almost ready to send some files out to have a bunch of sheetmetal parts cut, and then I'll have everything I need to get the truck back together and running/driving.

Have also been spending a lot of time thinking about the whole trailer situation, since it's about time to get started on that. But am wondering if a small dedicated workshop trailer is really the best option. Maybe I'd be better off building more of a move versatile trailer platform. Have some ideas. Will post-up about that part of the project soon.

Honestly though, it's mostly a lack of money that's holding things up right now. Have been putting it all into GatosBros, trying to help my brothers get that off the ground. Even selling off our bikes. So that's slowing things down, but the hope is obviously that it will all pay off in the future.
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Old 06-20-2013, 07:39 PM   #997 (permalink)
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Love this project and all the custom parts you are designing for it. It's fearless.
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Old 06-20-2013, 07:47 PM   #998 (permalink)
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Thanks. Dunno about fearless, but it's expensive and time-consuming.
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Old 06-28-2013, 12:38 AM   #999 (permalink)
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So I'm not sure if I'll be able to follow-through with these plans because I didn't win any of the auctions I was bidding on, but the idea was to buy an M1022 dolly-set and modify it to haul standard ISO shipping containers. There were a bunch of these things that came through Herlong, but govliquidation fucked-up my account and kept me from bidding last week, and today I watched the prices climb beyond what I was willing to spend.

What I was thinking though, is that I'd probably be a lot better off with a 20ft workshop container than a 10ft workshop trailer. The 10ft trailer I've got is small enough that I'd be able to take it everywhere, but might rather have a bigger workshop trailer, even if it meant I wouldn't be able to haul it out into the middle of nowhere. Would probably serve me better 99% of the time.

From what I've heard, those M1022 dolly-sets are not a great way to haul anything, but they sure are versatile. Wouldn't be a mobile workshop that I'd haul around everywhere I went, but those dolly-sets are rated to carry 15,000lbs and that's probably super-conservative, so I could build-out a pretty well-equipped little workshop.

If anyone knows where I can find a nice M1022 dolly-set, I'd sure appreciate it. Open to input if anyone has any other ideas too, as far as what I might want to use to haul shipping containers around. Has to be bumper-pull, although I did almost buy an M931A2 tractor this afternoon...
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Old 06-28-2013, 06:00 PM   #1000 (permalink)
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From what I've heard, those M1022 dolly-sets are not a great way to haul anything, but they sure are versatile.
Not sure how much I'd like long-hauling with a front-steering dolly like that, but thanks for the post, as I've never seen those before. What's the going market value for one of those?
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