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Old 02-27-2011, 02:27 PM   #151 (permalink)
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Going to be uploading a lot of CAD files to the CAD Library, sharing almost everything that I've designed for mah deuce. A lot of things are specific to the motorhome conversion part of this project, but many of the things I'm making can be used on regular deuces (like these mounting brackets for a removable three-point receiver hitch). I'm using Solidworks, so I'll be sharing my native design files, as well at universal formats (IGS? any special requests?) and eDrawings files. eDrawings is a free CAD viewer made by Solidworks, and allows anybody to view these 3D CAD models.



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Old 02-27-2011, 06:13 PM   #152 (permalink)
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You're slackin buddy!!!
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Old 02-27-2011, 06:34 PM   #153 (permalink)
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M103A3 trailer

After scrapping the uhaul trailer that I built, I picked up an M103A3 trailer, which is basically a flatbed version of an M105 trailer. Sits a little bit higher than the M353 that I used to build the uhaul trailer, but that's not such a bad thing (extra ground clearance and room for storage underneath the deck). It's also quite a bit lighter and the flatbed will make a much better platform to for an enclosure. Picked this one up in Washington. It's in great condition and the fellow I bought it from is a collector/enthusiast and he made me a great deal. We rigged-up some temporary bedsides and used the trailer to help a friend move from Seattle down to Santa Cruz, which helped offset the cost of the trailer. Mounted a set of matching wheels/tires and stripped it down to the basics.





At first I was trying to fit everything into this trailer, but now I'm leaning towards more of a modular caravan concept. Probably just build a few different boxes for this trailer chassis to start, and then acquire more trailers as I find them (the M103's aren't quite as common as the M105's). Going to make a simple crane that will sit on top of the M109 box, and will be able to lift the trailer boxs on/off the trailer chassis.

Would love to get my hands on a water/fuel trailer, and I'd like to build a full-on partywagon trailer too (probably based on an MKT-85/90 trailer) with a bar, big-ass BBQ, showers, etc. Could even load a vehicle on top of an M103 trailer if I reinforce the deck in a few spots.

This first one is going to be something of a dedicated workshop/toybox. Plan on outfitting it with a full assortment of tools, including a welder, tubing bender, saws, drills, grinders, etc. Most of the tools will be mounted on 2" receivers (like this), so I can move things around to make efficient use of space. Hope this will make a good trailer for traveling, pit support at off-road races, and that type of thing. Will have extra fuel (diesel, gas, slut-tanks), water, waste storage tanks, as well as a generator and large battery-bank. Should extend the range of mah deuce and will allow the trailer to be used as a stand-alone basecamp.

Started a couple different threads about this new trailer project, and uploaded my design files to the CAD Library. Have only gotten as far as roughing-out all the basic dimensions. Still thinking about how I actually want to build this thing, so the CAD files I've uploaded aren't going to be too useful to anybody, unless you're only interested in the dimensions of the M103A3 trailer. But I will upload new files as things progress.

This screen-capture of the enclosure is already out-of-date, as I've decided that I'm going to mode the side-entry door around to the front of the trailer box so I can walk back and forth between the motorhome and the trailer (would like to put an awning on the back of mah deuce that would extend far enough to make a breezeway between the truck and trailer).

links
designing & building a small enclosed trailer (pirate4x4)
building a lightweight structure to support weight (pirate4x4)
making a fold-down trailer door (expeditionportal)
M103A3 trailer & custom enclosure: V2 (CAD files)

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Old 02-27-2011, 08:27 PM   #154 (permalink)
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You going to use all those fuel can mounts?
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Old 02-27-2011, 09:07 PM   #155 (permalink)
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You going to use all those fuel can mounts?
yes, and a few more. Been stockpiling them and must have 8-10 by now.
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Old 02-27-2011, 09:56 PM   #156 (permalink)
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Just found another one of those comicbook-style service bulletins.

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Old 02-27-2011, 09:59 PM   #157 (permalink)
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...and another. haha.

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Old 02-27-2011, 11:02 PM   #158 (permalink)
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Brad Milne

I mentioned before that I stumbled onto a NOS cab, and a lot of the parts that I've picked up for this project came from the same place. The cab, a NOS hardtop, a whole pile of riveted wheels, the M103A3 trailer, and a whole truckload (a BIG load) of other misc. parts came from Brad Milne's yard in McKenna Washington. I've made a couple trips to his place already, and spent a few days with him, picking through parts and finding treasures that I didn't know I was looking for (like that cab). Real good-natured fellow. Allowed me camp in his yard and even let me drive this monster forklift, which was seriously one of the coolest pieces of equipment I've ever had the chance to operate. If any of you guys in the PNW are looking for parts for military trucks, he's a source that I'm reluctant give-up. The Gollum in me would prefer to keep his stash a secret. His number is... 360.400.1694.



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Old 02-27-2011, 11:08 PM   #159 (permalink)
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cab-swap, bodywork, sandblasting, paint

Stripping the truck down went quickly. But I just realized that I was mistaken when I wrote in a previous post that I haven't had any trouble with rusted or seized hardware. That's not true. No amount of persuasion could loosen a few of the screws that mount the upper door-hinges to the cab. I had to cut them off. Only took a minute, and that's really the only trouble I've had with any hardware. At least so far, but I think I've been through almost everything already. Making a note, as these words might come back to bite me.





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Old 02-27-2011, 11:14 PM   #160 (permalink)
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deuce and a half -> trail rig

After removing all of the storage boxes and everything from under the cab, I was shocked to see just how much clearance there is under there. Can't afford to give up that precious space, which is where I'm carrying a lot of fluids and batteries and other heavy stuff, but I'm realizing that it would be possible to build a deuce and a half that could get pretty damn shifty on the trails. Chop the front fenders off along the hoodline, bob it and ditch the bed, link it, etc. Maybe re-power (cummins?). I've got my hands full, but if anybody wants to build a hardcore deuce-based trailrig, I'd love to help design something like that. Send me a PM.

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Old 02-27-2011, 11:23 PM   #161 (permalink)
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cab-swap, bodywork, sandblasting, paint

So this is what my mah deuce looks like right now. I hauled the new cab and all the body parts down to Agri-Trade School in Salinas. Tom sandblasted and painted the whole back half of my Tacoma Did a fantastic job and for what I thought was a pretty reasonable amount of money. Have so many parts that I needed to have sandblasted and painted for mah deuce that I've been having him work through them in batches, paying for more work as I can afford it. He's been really cool about that. Here are some pictures of the parts as I dropped htem off, sandblasted, and then epoxy-primed. Think I'll end up painting everything myself, just to save a bit of money.













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Old 02-27-2011, 11:43 PM   #162 (permalink)
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cab-swap, bodywork, sandblasting, paint

And this is what the new cab looked like when I picked it up, after being sandblasted and epoxy-primed. This cab came with a reinforcing plate installed, which I understand the military installed in deuces that had M66 gunmounts installed, to keep the cabs from falling apart. Cool.

















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Old 02-27-2011, 11:50 PM   #163 (permalink)
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Noticed two things after I picked up the new cab.

1) There's some kind of patch-panel installed here, and I can't figure out why. This cab was definitely brand new (was still mounted to the pallet it was delivered on), so I can't understand why this is here. Maybe this isn't actually a new cab? Guess it could be an M35A2 cab that got stripped and prepped to be re-assembled as an M35A3? In that case, maybe it got scrapped because of the patch-panel? Happy it found it's way to me in any case.

The patch-panel is no big deal, but it's the sealing-surface for the hardtop so I'm going to cut it out in order to create a nice flat edge for the hardtop to sit on. I know I know - could just use a piece of foam or something to take up the gap, but I'd rather make it right.




2) The cab probably had something heavy set on top of it at some point in time, because there's a little bit of a bow in the windshield mounting channel at the back of the cowl. Should be easy enough to straighten though.

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Old 02-27-2011, 11:56 PM   #164 (permalink)
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cab-swap, bodywork, sandblasting, paint

Back at home, waiting to be reinstalled. But I built some jackstands and set the cab off to the side. Might as well do the engine-swap before I start putting the body back together.

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Old 02-28-2011, 12:04 AM   #165 (permalink)
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cab-swap, bodywork, sandblasting, paint

Oh, of course I did some bodywork before taking all those parts down to be sandblasted and epoxy-primed. Pretty boring stuff, just filled-in some random holes, welded-up a few cracks here and there, etc. Forgot I even had any pics of that work. Obviously ground-out all the welds.

Should look pretty fresh when it all comes back together. Then I'm planning to driving the whole truck down to Agri-Trade to have the chassis, suspension, axles and the box all sandblasted and painted.







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Old 02-28-2011, 09:34 AM   #166 (permalink)
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Yeah, that's a reman cab. I knew thta fromt he first pics since it has the pattern painted on it, I knew it had been installed on a truck and finished. Must have come back due to the paint flaking off. Probably improper prep. The gun ring reinforcement plate is a nice option. That with a hard top will make the cab a lot more solid. Toss in some Dynamat and you will have a nice comfortable cab though the winshield frames will probably still leak, lol.
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Old 02-28-2011, 10:38 AM   #167 (permalink)
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In the future, if you know something I don't, post-up! Thanks for confirming that though, makes a lot more sense. Not sure what I'm going to do for insulation yet, still thinking about that.
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Old 02-28-2011, 10:58 AM   #168 (permalink)
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Hey, so can you tell me if the cab was galvanized or _____? Tom and I were scratching our heads. It sure looked galvanized. Kinda chalky under the paint.
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Old 02-28-2011, 12:26 PM   #169 (permalink)
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It's hard to say. I believe originally it would have been galvanized depending on the year, but I'm not sure what they do on a rebuild. It's possible it could have been dipped in something and not properly rinsed that caused a reaction once the paint was on. There are a million things that can go wrong with paint and I can't even begin to guess what all can go wrong with CARC that I assume it was painted with.

As for mentioning the cab being used, I thought about it but it didn't seem like it would make much difference but after see the post about the patch, I figured I would confirm it.
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Old 02-28-2011, 11:57 PM   #170 (permalink)
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hardtop & rollcage

Had a hell of a time trying to find a hardtop on the west coast. Ended up purchasing a brand new hardtop for a 900-series 5-ton, which is a bit wider than the deuces and the 800-series 5-ton trucks. Shouldn't be too difficult to cut it down to the right width and on the upside, I'll have an extra-large rear window. Think I'll offset to the passenger's-side by taking the width out of the passenger's-side of the hardtop.

After I fit the new hardtop, it will be time to start building the rollcage. Want to do that while the cab is empty, and before it's mounted. Started posting about this in a thread about rollbars on the steelsoldiers forum, but might as well copy/paste/edit and add it to this thread.

Disclaimer: I know I know, this is pirate4x4, but a lot of people that are following this project aren't hardcore offroad enthusiasts.

In addition to putting rollcages in all of my off-road vehicles, I'm the type of person that would put a rollcage in a sedan, minivan, or just about anything else on four wheels. Think about the fantastic crashes we've seen racecar drivers walk away from, and then consider how many people die in relatively low-speed traffic accidents. Most of the cars on the road aren't nearly as safe as they could be. But building a race-quality rollcage is expensive ($3-5,000 minimum) and most people don't want to deal with the inconvenience. Personally, I don't want to go out like that (traffic collision). This is my daily-driver. I built that rollcage to survive cartwheeling through the desert at 80mph+, so I feel pretty safe in that truck on-road too.

And I feel reasonably safe in mah deuce. We're probably not too likely to roll these vehicles if we drive them responsibly. It's the blowout, brake failure, or some other kind of catastrophic mechanical failure that I worry about most. Also concerned about the real possibility of a low-speed flop off-road. Can see myself getting myself into situations where that's always a real possibility. The height of the M109 box on my truck would probably protect me in most cases, but then I went and added that cabover rack. Sure don't want that thing to come crashing down into the cab.

So I'm going to build a rollcage for Mah Deuce. Nothing too crazy. Not going to attach the rollcage to the frame because the cab is mounted on springs. Just going to try to make the cab a little bit more crush-proof. If the cab separates from the chassis, so be it. The seats and harnesses will be mounted to the rollcage, so I'll launch with the escape capsule.

Took some rough dimensions (old cab w/soft-top) and whipped-up these SolidWorks models. Here are a few rough sketches to show you guys what I've been thinking about. Not really any more complicated than a rollcage that you might expect to see in a Jeep. Just a little bigger tubing. Not a whole lot of room to go with anything much bigger than 3" diameter tubing, so that's what I'm using for all the perimeter tubes in these models. Will have to pay to have the tubing bent because my bender/dies only go up to 2". Might even look into having these tubes CNC-bent and laser-notched. Would sure beat having to make some of those tricky compound notches by hand.

If anybody wants to download these CAD files to take a look at the 3D models, you can open/view them with a free program called eDrawings (download it here). It's made by Solidworks, so it's totally safe to download and use. You can spin the 3D models around, take measurements, make notes, comments, etc. It can be really helpful in collaborative discussions like this, where it's sometimes hard to visualize what someone it trying to communicate without 'seeing' it.


Version 1 is about as simple as it gets. Every rollcage starts with a good perimeter cage, and they con't have to be complicated. You could even connect the A-pillar hoop to the B-pillar hoop with straight tubes, but that would eat into precious headroom. Even a simple rollcage like this should provide some measure of additional safety in a low-speed flop.


V1 Solidworks file (right click -> download / save as)


Version 2 just shows a more elegant method of joining tubes. Notching tubes to make joints like these is VERY time consuming, but it creates a super strong with clean, flowing lines, no matter what angle you're looking at it from. Not sure how much that really matters to anyone in a Deuce, where you're not likely to ever even see it (unless you're running around topless). Might look out of place on a MV, almost too pretty. But still, probably my favorite way to make these types of joints.


V2 Solidworks file (right click -> download / save as)


Version 3 is where I've left-off (continuation of Version 2). Just starting to think about cross-bracing. The problem is, I hate compromises. I'd like to build a race-quality cage, but I don't want to make this vehicle any more impractical than it already is, and I don't want to completely destroy the look of the stock interior. So I'm going to settle for 'better than nothing' in this case. I might make a simple bolt-in cage, but I'll probably end up cutting into the body and the dash just a little bit, so I can make the cage fit tighter and look cleaner. Either way, I'm going to try to keep the visible tubing to a minimum. Thinking about cutting the plates out of the door openings though, and replacing them with tubing kind of like what I've shown here in Version 3. Could always plate-over them again, and make it look more stock-ish...


V3 Solidworks file (right click -> download / save as)
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Old 03-01-2011, 05:10 AM   #171 (permalink)
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What about a couple horizontal tubes across the rear wall, similar to what you have in the front. But one of them down at the bottom, and the other intersecting your "peace symbol" bracing.

I see what you are saying about the door openings - hard to get any tubing in there without it being in your way.
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Old 03-01-2011, 08:37 AM   #172 (permalink)
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Dynamat is good but really expensive. You can get the spray on sound deadener for much less and it will work damn near as well. Another thing to consider is actual foam insualtion on the fire wall and if you can swing it under the carpet. That will make a huge difference in road noise from the engine and tires. While you have that cab off you might consider spray sound deadening or line-X (some spray on) on the bottom of the cab and the firewall on the engine side. Anything to absorb or block sound in that truck will be a help. Also dont forget to get the inside if the doors and behind the seats. Sound from the rear wheels is very noticable.

Where did you get the rockwell parts? I need to rebuild a set.

thanks
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Old 03-01-2011, 11:05 AM   #173 (permalink)
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What about a couple horizontal tubes across the rear wall, similar to what you have in the front. But one of them down at the bottom, and the other intersecting your "peace symbol" bracing.

I see what you are saying about the door openings - hard to get any tubing in there without it being in your way.
My CAD models don't show the tubing on the floor, but there will be tubes that run along the door openings and the back wall of the cab, but the cab is actually pretty small and there's no room for a horizontal tube behind the seats. Think I might just weld the cage to the cab and reinforce the sheetmetal along the back wall instead.

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Originally Posted by micky_blue View Post
Dynamat is good but really expensive. You can get the spray on sound deadener for much less and it will work damn near as well. Another thing to consider is actual foam insualtion on the fire wall and if you can swing it under the carpet. That will make a huge difference in road noise from the engine and tires. While you have that cab off you might consider spray sound deadening or line-X (some spray on) on the bottom of the cab and the firewall on the engine side. Anything to absorb or block sound in that truck will be a help. Also dont forget to get the inside if the doors and behind the seats. Sound from the rear wheels is very noticable.

Where did you get the rockwell parts? I need to rebuild a set.

thanks
micky
Considering all those options right now, and that's the main reason why I haven't done anything. Been working on my tacoma, doing the interior right now. Using a combination of sound-deadening paint, waterproof insulated flashing tape, foam, and carpet. Want to see how it turns out before I decide what to do in mah deuce. The other thing is that I'm not sure whether or not I'm willing to trade a little noise/comfort for the ability to hose-out the cab.

Oh, and I got my rockwell parts from odiron.com
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Old 03-01-2011, 02:09 PM   #174 (permalink)
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Bed liner does a fairly respectable job of deadening sound. I did it on the floor of a truck I had and cut cab sound by a good 20% and that was just the inner floor.

If you do the outside of the firewall and floor and then the Inside of the firewall and floor and back of the cab you could get some real reduction, and get a noticeable drop in cab noise.
(do the doors in dynamat if there is space inside though.)

And you can still pressure wash the inside if you want!
(though to high a psi can peal up liner if the surface is not prepped right or you use the cheap stuff.)
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Old 03-01-2011, 03:34 PM   #175 (permalink)
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Yeah, that's definitely an option. some kind of bedliner applied to the inside, underside and firewall of the tub would probably be my first choice, but I had an awful experience with Line-X in an old Jeep tub. Started peeling/lifting/bubbling. Total nightmare. Don't think it was prepped right, seams were not sealed, something. I don't know. Might end up going that route again, hoping for better results.
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