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Old 09-19-2012, 04:19 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Ford Ranger budget build

Thought I'd share my build with you folks. I understand it's not that "extreme" but it works beautifully for me.

Enjoy:



I originally bought this truck for $400. Mismatched body panels, cracked heads, no exhaust, broken front diff, etc.

Got it running, played with leveling coils and got bored quickly enough.

Swapped in an expo 8.8 with 4.56s and an Aussie locker. Front Dana 35 got the same minus the locker.

I noticed awhile back that there was not much information about adapting EB (Early Bronco) coils onto the TTB suspensions. I figured I would pass on my knowledge from my build.


I started my build by grabbing a set of stock Dana 35 TTB radius arms. I ordered up 6 feet of 2" O.D. square tubing 1/4" wall. I cleaned up my radius arms and cut measured where 2" would fit snugly inside them. I incorp. 4 degrees of caster into the beams when I welded them up. I also welded new shock tabs onto the arms to eliminate the stud design. Im sure most of you have replaced their fare share of them. It's a good idea to drill 2 or 3 holes in the arm and plug weld them back shut. I also ended up plating the bend in my arms with 1/8" plate. I used rod ends for the end of my arms. Ended up using Ballistic Fab rod ends with a 1.25" thread and 9/16" through bolt. Here's where I got creative. Everyone I talked to said they hated the tires rubbing on their arms. So, I got the bright Idea to put a bend in them. Doing some measuring, I came up with 18 degrees. That angle is perfect for eliminating any tire rub within reason and still keep proper suspension geometry throughout the suspension cycling.






Here are my mounts. Everything is 1/4" plate welded with a 220 Mig welder. I also welded washers to the rod end mounting point for extra strength.






With the amount of suspension travel I'm creating, I had to remake my transmission crossmember. I ran into trouble with clearance having an auto transmission. Here's my finished product.

Last edited by brinker88; 11-23-2012 at 05:21 AM. Reason: Build took a different direction
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Old 09-19-2012, 04:19 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I had to get skyjacker beam drop brackets due to clearance problems with the "ever popular" drop plate drive side bracket.

To adapt EB coils to the ranger TTB you need to do 2 things. Make an adapter plate for the bottom of the coil spring, and cut the FRONT tabs off the coil bucket. I used BC Bronco's 3.5" coils. Looking back, I should have gotten their 3.5 coil with winch due to having to add 5/8" spacer to level the truck.




For the upper coil retainer, I used a piece of 1/8" flat stock and bent it up around the coil and bolted it together, acting as a clamp




Here you an see the difference between a stock extended cab coil, a 4" TTB coil, and a 3.5" EB coil


To properly use the flex you've now created, you need to have a shock long enough to not limit it. My solution was cut the stock coil bucket, plate it, and bolt an F250 shock tower next to it. I ended up using a BDS shock with 35.5" extended and 20.4" collapsed length.



Steering is another thing that DEFINITELY needs to be addressed when using flexy coils. TRE binding WILL occur with stock steering and suspension traveling while driving WILL occur. I used a modified stonecrusher steering setup with 3/4 ton GM T.R.E's but you could also use Superunner steering. I later modified this setup with some bends for clearance issues and swapped out the FA600 for an FA400



* DO NOT FORGET TO CHECK FOR CLEARANCE ISSUES!!!!* I ended up trimming my passenger side axle shaft due to binding as well as opening up the passenger side window for the shaft.

Final Product:



:icon_thumby:

Full droop:

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Old 09-19-2012, 04:20 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Steering at ride height:



Radius Arms:



Truck.

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Old 09-19-2012, 04:47 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Pretty cool!!
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Old 09-19-2012, 05:42 PM   #5 (permalink)
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x2

looks way more hardcore than some of the other ttb threads on here.

i like it
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Old 09-19-2012, 07:32 PM   #6 (permalink)
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well you know i am on this train
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88 ranger ext cab p.o.s. hackjob powered by a 6.5 diesel clattering against a 4l80 thats punishing a f208 that is turning ford 60's rolling on 33-44 inch tires depending on the mission at hand


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Old 09-19-2012, 07:35 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Lol bobby. Of course you are.

And everyone else, Thanks for the compliments. I've been dreaming of building a decent TTB suspension for awhile now. I'm glad that I did.
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Old 09-19-2012, 08:01 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Fucking Sick.

Edit: I think your HF engine crane needs some reinforcement.

Last edited by f350n4.6ranger; 09-19-2012 at 08:03 PM.
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Old 09-19-2012, 08:05 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Fucking Sick.

Edit: I think your HF engine crane needs some reinforcement.
Ya think? POS thing. It's gettting gusseted and welded. Guess that's what you get for $150 though.

Thanks for the compliment dude!
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Old 09-19-2012, 08:16 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Nice! Always loved a properly setup ttb
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I think I heard that the model with the rear blocks and neg arched fronts was the super rare model called a Medium Boy.
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Old 09-19-2012, 08:38 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Thats pretty good droop on that thing. Heres my old F-150 maxed out with extended radius arms with regular old bushings for comparison.


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Old 09-19-2012, 08:41 PM   #12 (permalink)
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thats pretty good for a every day all around work tool
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88 ranger ext cab p.o.s. hackjob powered by a 6.5 diesel clattering against a 4l80 thats punishing a f208 that is turning ford 60's rolling on 33-44 inch tires depending on the mission at hand


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Old 09-20-2012, 06:46 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Nice man, thats a lot of travel for a coil bucket setup. Never thought about doing the steering that way. How does it look at full bump? Geometry isnt perfect, but way better than stock.

Box in the back of that passenger side beam before it cracks. And that upper coil retainer clip you made can be found stock on F150s.
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Old 09-20-2012, 07:30 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Never thought about doing the steering that way. How does it look at full bump? Geometry isnt perfect, but way better than stock.
This, the joints look to be nice and close to the beam pivots. I'll likely go this way if my other ideas don't work out.

Last edited by [486]; 09-20-2012 at 07:31 AM.
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Old 09-20-2012, 08:39 AM   #15 (permalink)
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The steering is called StoneCrusher steering. I found some examples online and elaborated on it a little bit.

So for, the truck tracks great.

The beams are only in there temp. Im building a set of trussed beams.
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Old 09-20-2012, 09:47 AM   #16 (permalink)
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This, the joints look to be nice and close to the beam pivots. I'll likely go this way if my other ideas don't work out.
My only problem with it is as the passenger side cycles it drags the driver tire around with it more than a factory setup would. But that would only be at extreme travel. Anywhere near ride height his setup looks to be much more ideal than stock. Only way you could do it better would be with swingers.
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Old 09-24-2012, 08:24 AM   #17 (permalink)
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No real updates lately. Been too busy winterizing the house.

Have to do a waterpump here this weekend and will take it on some trails around the house. Will get photos ( I know y'all are photo whores! )
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Old 09-24-2012, 06:29 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I LOVE your steering setup
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Old 09-24-2012, 06:37 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Thanks. It's the simplest, cheapest and strongest I could come up with. I couldnt do swingset steering due to not having cut/turned beams.
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Old 09-24-2012, 06:50 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Dam im impressed. Seriously. Good job man, I'd shake your hand if you were around here.

Have you broken anything in the front end since you've "lifted" it?
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Old 09-24-2012, 06:58 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Thanks dude! And no, Havent taken it out on it's maiden voyage yet. Still need to do a water pump. All I've done is a quick shakedown test on the road and stretching the suspension out a little to check for clearance issues. So far, so good. The truck rides amazing with the sway bar hooked up.
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Old 09-24-2012, 07:15 PM   #22 (permalink)
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hey post up some more pictures/tech of your swaybar setup. ive been looking through the junk yard at different swaybars to mount to mine for hiway driving.
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Old 09-25-2012, 04:15 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Im using the stock 7/8" sway bar with heim joints
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Old 09-25-2012, 03:20 PM   #24 (permalink)
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. I couldnt do swingset steering due to not having cut/turned beams.
WTF did you hear that BS from?

C&T beams have no relation whatsoever to the steering, other than it simply needing to be built to match up to where your beam pivots are. What might be tough however is packaging it up in such a way to where everything clears the 4WD front diff (a K-link setup does wonderful here).

Nice work on what you have though, regardless.
One of these years I need to get to puttin' the 1-ton TREs on mine too...
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Old 09-25-2012, 03:32 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Pretty nice setup. If I hadnt had a set of already narrowed 1/2 tons thrown in my lap for the Explorer this would have been good inspiration
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