BW 1356 doubler tech - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum  

Go Back   Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum > Brand Specific Tech > Ford
Notices

Reply
 
Share LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 03-30-2013, 06:49 PM   #1 (permalink)
Registered User
 
107096's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Member # 107096
Posts: 1,801
BW 1356 doubler tech

The blue case is out of a fsb and Im only using it as a jig for the build up. It was pretty basic and straight forward. Split the case, yank the 4wd chain, cut the front output and bolt together. Gonna have a friend make the coupler so I can bolt the planetary box to the transmission. Im gonna have to build another cross member to support the main tcase. Even though its aluminum and light, I dont want to take the chance of the doubler setup ripping the transmission tail housing off.
The input of the front jig case and the planetary box are the same, 31 in and 31 out. I dont know how true it is with some of the other bw variations, but I suppose they could match if the cases came out of a fullsize application.
Attached Images
     

Last edited by 107096; 05-25-2013 at 06:42 PM.
107096 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-30-2013, 06:55 PM   #2 (permalink)
Registered User
 
107096's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Member # 107096
Posts: 1,801
In the above pics, the two welds are the 4wd gear and part of the shift bracket. I welded the shift bracket because the case is now a high/n/Low so there was no need for the 2wd position. On the 4wd sprocket, I welded it up so the gear will act as an oil slinger in case the pump takes a shit. Here is the case bolted up and cut up. I also smoked a northern tool grinder cutting aluminum of all things, what the fuck ever, its a throw away.

Ill get more pics when the coupler is built and then a vid of it installed and moving the truck.
Attached Images
     

Last edited by 107096; 03-30-2013 at 06:56 PM.
107096 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Old 03-31-2013, 12:11 PM   #3 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Member # 231091
Location: Emerald,PA
Posts: 117
Looks good. The reason you smoked the grinder cutting aluminum/ and or magnesium. Is because they are softer metals and will gum up your cutting wheels causing the motor to work harder. There for burning it up, will happen with the high end grinders too. A hack saw or band saw would have bin the way to go.

Oh and use caution if you try to weld to that case. One half is magnesium and will burn out of control.
Halftamed94 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
 
Old 03-31-2013, 03:59 PM   #4 (permalink)
Registered User
 
107096's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Member # 107096
Posts: 1,801
The case i cut is the bw 1356 w/ a pto. It is an all aluminum construction, not all 1356's have the pto so I have the proverbial hens tooth. It took me a minute to find this thing.

Last edited by 107096; 03-31-2013 at 04:00 PM.
107096 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-31-2013, 09:22 PM   #5 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Member # 120478
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 1,259
Whats this going? It's gonna be a long mutha, those 1356s are long cases and you're gonna have 2 of them now. Any concern on chain / case strength running a low range into the stock case?
__________________
Wheeler ->
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
90 Bronco with stuff
Dan90FSB is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-31-2013, 10:38 PM   #6 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Member # 211462
Location: Marquette Mi
Posts: 192
When I build my 1356 doubler I was planning on using just the front half of the first one to keep it short and a 205 behind it instead of another 1356. if you do it that way i think it only measures like 3 inches longer than a full 1356.
__________________
96 bronco 351w/np435/np205/9inch/SAS dana44/36" swampers
mantooth is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-31-2013, 11:16 PM   #7 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Member # 168167
Location: Novato CA
Posts: 783
i got a 1350/1350 setup for free a while back. the previous owner did this same thing and then bolted it all together.

it was surprisingly strong and its still together.

i had it for the same as you. mock up

only shitty part was it had either low range or low low range. and it was always in 4wd
__________________
"Watch this and hold my beer"
crawlwalkcrawl0331 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-01-2013, 06:41 AM   #8 (permalink)
Registered User
 
107096's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Member # 107096
Posts: 1,801
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan90FSB View Post
Whats this going? It's gonna be a long mutha, those 1356s are long cases and you're gonna have 2 of them now. Any concern on chain / case strength running a low range into the stock case?
It is going in the truck in my sig. I want the low low for more control when I find myself in sticky situations, which happeneds more often then not. Ive also decided to use the blue case to cut the overall length of the doubler and I will also be able to run a conventional two piece driveline vs a carrier bearing setup. As for chain stretch, Ive got a few spares so i will cross that bridge when I come to it.

Im trying to go as low buck as possible with this so the average wheeler with some ability will be able to make the same thing with out to much difficulty.
Current cost add up:

BW 1356 tcase w/ pto provision- 100

Last edited by 107096; 04-01-2013 at 06:45 AM.
107096 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-05-2013, 07:41 PM   #9 (permalink)
Registered User
 
107096's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Member # 107096
Posts: 1,801
new price tally.

T-case- $100
Special adapter- $350
Total- $450

Im gettin it at the end of the month after the
upcoming yakima rotation. I'll post pics when I get it
107096 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-28-2013, 08:30 PM   #10 (permalink)
Registered User
 
107096's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Member # 107096
Posts: 1,801
here is the coupler/adapter hooked to the range box. Now that I think about it, it probably been easier to do a ford 203 to the 1356. But those are hard to find around here and I wanted to do this for the fuck of it.
How it will be supported, Im still trying to figure that one out. Im thinking about a 2-3" piece of rectangle welded to the top of the adapter with a 5"x5" plate on top of that bolted to the underside of the cab. With that plate under the cab, another piece of 5"x5" will be on top of the cab floor sandwiching the floor pan like an old school goose neck setup.
Am I over thinking this? If I am, feel free to comment.
Attached Images
     

Last edited by 107096; 04-28-2013 at 08:33 PM.
107096 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-28-2013, 08:36 PM   #11 (permalink)
Registered User
 
107096's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Member # 107096
Posts: 1,801
Quote:
Originally Posted by Halftamed94 View Post
Looks good. The reason you smoked the grinder cutting aluminum/ and or magnesium. Is because they are softer metals and will gum up your cutting wheels causing the motor to work harder. There for burning it up, will happen with the high end grinders too. A hack saw or band saw would have bin the way to go.

Oh and use caution if you try to weld to that case. One half is magnesium and will burn out of control.
You were right and I was wrong. The back half was magnesium and it almost burnt the guys shop down. He thought it was a cool project so he didn't trip balls over it thank God.

Side note:
I am doing this purely to see if I have the ability to show that any ordinary back yard mech. can build this setup. I'm not trying to make a product and push out any high end manufacturers with a low cost project.

Last edited by 107096; 04-28-2013 at 08:41 PM.
107096 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-29-2013, 11:22 AM   #12 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Member # 222119
Location: Clare, Mi
Posts: 466
Quote:
Originally Posted by whiterunner27 View Post
You were right and I was wrong. The back half was magnesium and it almost burnt the guys shop down. He thought it was a cool project so he didn't trip balls over it thank God.
Did he try using water to put it out?
rjjp is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-30-2013, 07:50 PM   #13 (permalink)
Registered User
 
107096's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Member # 107096
Posts: 1,801
I didnt ask. Alls good tho
107096 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-24-2013, 10:00 PM   #14 (permalink)
Registered User
 
107096's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Member # 107096
Posts: 1,801
Here it is all bolted up. Miss drilled one hole but not bad for 5 outta 6 with a hand drill. Thats a 38" interco that the doubler is sitting on, it'll cut my drive line length down almost 40". Imma figure out something for an extra support or cross member tomorrow when I mount it.
Attached Images
   
107096 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-24-2013, 10:07 PM   #15 (permalink)
Zeus of the Sluice
 
dieselboy740's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Member # 168108
Location: Ramona
Posts: 3,840
That would make my driveline like 2ft lol. E4od is loooong then add those lol
__________________
'97 f-250 7.3, project, 3 link front, 4 link rear, back halved, fox co/bypasses/bumps, etc....
'08 f350 cclb 4x v10
'93 Volvo 940 fake rally car #trophyvo
dieselboy740 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-24-2013, 10:08 PM   #16 (permalink)
Registered User
 
107096's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Member # 107096
Posts: 1,801
Do it, I would suggest a double carden on both ends. Prolly what I'm gonna do.
Been busy at work and pissed off because the guys I work with refuse to work and I end up doing all the shit myself. Thats why this thing feel by the wayside for awhile. Figured on doing a square shaft for the front do to sheer simplicity.

Last edited by 107096; 05-24-2013 at 10:17 PM.
107096 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-25-2013, 05:59 PM   #17 (permalink)
Registered User
 
107096's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Member # 107096
Posts: 1,801
Here it is mounted to the truck. It hangs alittle low but I'm planning on slotting the holes 1" in both directions from the center of each bolt hole for clocking ability. This truck will have a somewhat flat belly when I'm done with this project. The other thing hangin down there is the factory skid plate, couldn't do much else so I left it there. Looking at it the bottom of the cab, I thought I wasn't going to have enough room for everything to fit. I had to use my bottle jack to push the doubler up into the cab but I ended up having enough room to put the tranny mount back in its spot. Everything worked out fine, I am super jazzed that I was able to pull this off on my budget and what knowledge I do have. I am pleased that this actually worked, the real test is when I get the drive lines done, fill both boxes and drive it. I'll post a vid when alls said and done.
Attached Images
    

Last edited by 107096; 05-25-2013 at 06:07 PM.
107096 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-09-2013, 08:22 PM   #18 (permalink)
Registered User
 
107096's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Member # 107096
Posts: 1,801
here's the vid as promised.
Still a few things to do like stretch the front driveline, build a shifter linkage and another cross member to support the rear case.
bw 1356 doubler - YouTube

Last edited by 107096; 06-09-2013 at 08:26 PM.
107096 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-11-2013, 08:45 PM   #19 (permalink)
Registered User
 
107096's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Member # 107096
Posts: 1,801
new price tally.

T-case- $100
Special adapter- $350
Junk yard driveline- $75

new total- $525

Not bad for a back yard project. I lucked out with the drive shaft, it came from an 80 something 3/4 ford diesel with a 4 speed and a bw t-case variant.

Last edited by 107096; 06-11-2013 at 08:47 PM.
107096 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-15-2013, 09:22 PM   #20 (permalink)
Registered User
 
107096's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Member # 107096
Posts: 1,801
Got a cross member to support the rear case done the other day. I dont want to post pix because a few of the welds are fucking hideous. the mig machine took a shit and all we had was an arc welder that was older than me and as big as the flat bed on my truck to work with. There was a gap that I had to pile rod on to fill the gap, it's ugly . But if you want , Ill post it up. I may be able to at least cover the shit with multiple passes when the miller is back up.
107096 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-16-2013, 04:22 PM   #21 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Member # 192237
Location: St. Paul, MN
Posts: 11,416
make sure the crossmember bushings let it pivot with engine torque
cracking the case on a ZF is not a cheap mistake
[486] is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-16-2013, 11:09 PM   #22 (permalink)
Registered User
 
107096's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Member # 107096
Posts: 1,801
The tranny mount is in the the truck still. The doubler cross member is welded solid to the frame also acting as a torque mount at the same time. At least thats the theory. If it breaks, I have some bushings I can throw in it. As I figure, its got and additional support to carry the added weight and leverage the doubler carries.

Last edited by 107096; 06-16-2013 at 11:11 PM.
107096 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-17-2013, 05:12 AM   #23 (permalink)
Zeus of the Sluice
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Member # 46175
Location: Darien Center, NY
Posts: 4,161
We will need to see pics to make sure you aren't about to break something expensive. I promise to not mention a weld, and only provide help engineering.
__________________
USED and NEW 4x4 PARTS - (716) 984-8715 8-5pm EST
Specializing in Axles and Transfercases
Mh4Runner is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-17-2013, 08:13 AM   #24 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Member # 192237
Location: St. Paul, MN
Posts: 11,416
Quote:
Originally Posted by whiterunner27 View Post
The tranny mount is in the the truck still. The doubler cross member is welded solid to the frame also acting as a torque mount at the same time. At least thats the theory. If it breaks, I have some bushings I can throw in it. As I figure, its got and additional support to carry the added weight and leverage the doubler carries.
Even a weak motor will break the weakest point between the engine and the "torque mount" on the transfer case.

2.3 ford motors will break the transmission tailshaft housing in such a setup
Make sure it pivots on the same axis as the transmission mount and it'll be just fine.
[486] is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-20-2013, 10:19 PM   #25 (permalink)
Registered User
 
107096's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Member # 107096
Posts: 1,801
I think my welding ability sucks so I gave my buddy eric a 12 pack of rainier to weld it up. Ill have pics up tomorrow.
107096 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

** A VERIFICATION EMAIL IS SENT TO THIS ADDRESS TO COMPLETE REGISTRATION!! **

Email Address:
Insurance
Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 12:41 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 ©2011, Crawlability, Inc.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.