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Old 11-15-2015, 05:05 PM   #101 (permalink)
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Decided to do the front shock mounts a little different than originally planned. They'll still be hidden in the fender and I was able to get full bump with the 16'' shocks so my main goals were met. I just need to finish the passenger side and then reinforce.
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Buggy Expenses

Tube Bender $820.00
HF Ram $80.00
120' DOM Tubing $620.00
Casters $16.00
Mig Wire $30.00
Hydraulic Oil $5.00
metal/wd 40 $26.00
93 Bronco $700.00
Tow $60.00
Engine mounts, truss suspension stuff $139.40
Rear four link $350.00
Exhaust manifold $33.00
Sold, top ($40.00)
Sold, rear axle, brush guard ($160.00)
Expendables $15.00
Sold, Tires/wheels ($100.00)
Scrapped Body/Frame ($210.60)
1991 Ford Dana 60 HP KP $1,000
Dana 60 Ram truss/mount $100
Welding/Grinding Expendables $46.00
Rear four link hardware $44.41
Argon/CO2 Refill $26.49
Torch at the Auto Craft Shop $11
4 1/2" Grinder $40
35' Tubing $69.00
Pinion Guard, link mounts, bolts $82.76
Front Heims, axle bracket $360.25
72' 1.75" DOM, 24' 2" DOM $417.68
60 Truss, Mounts, Tabs $286.56
Sold Front seats, consul ($60)
Welding Helmet $140
Tube notcher/accessories $75.00
Sold Tailgate ($75)
EB sheet metal $250
14Bolt Wheel Studs and Lugs $85.00
14Bolt Disc Brake kit $345.71
Sold fender, hood ($50.00)
scrapped metal ($28.80)
Argon/CO2 Refill $26.49
14 Bolt shave cover $139.85
King Pin seals and bushings $28.39
Gusset Kit $75
60 Rotors, seals, brake pads $126.00
40" Trep Stickies $2,716
17" TG Bead Locks $1,344.40
Expendables $20
Welding wire $45
40' 1 3/4 .120 $60.00
40' 1 1/2 .120 DOM $80
Batt Box, Tube Clamps, tabs $227
Corbeau 36" Bench Seat $267
Full Hydro Steering $1,363.57
High steer Arms $180.00
Shock brackets $77.92
(4) 16" ORI STX's $2,767.80
Shock Hardware $30.00
Total $15,124.41
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Old 11-22-2015, 05:04 PM   #102 (permalink)
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Ordered a 12 gallon RCI fuel cell, radiator, trans cooler, steering cooler and fan. Was only able to get the fuel cell in and the rear cage put back together though. Should be able make some good progress next week. Rear is kind of looking like a swing set, should hopefully be strong and give good clearance for the suspension.

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Buggy Expenses

Tube Bender $820.00
HF Ram $80.00
120' DOM Tubing $620.00
Casters $16.00
Mig Wire $30.00
Hydraulic Oil $5.00
metal/wd 40 $26.00
93 Bronco $700.00
Tow $60.00
Engine mounts, truss suspension stuff $139.40
Rear four link $350.00
Exhaust manifold $33.00
Sold, top ($40.00)
Sold, rear axle, brush guard ($160.00)
Expendables $15.00
Sold, Tires/wheels ($100.00)
Scrapped Body/Frame ($210.60)
1991 Ford Dana 60 HP KP $1,000
Dana 60 Ram truss/mount $100
Welding/Grinding Expendables $46.00
Rear four link hardware $44.41
Argon/CO2 Refill $26.49
Torch at the Auto Craft Shop $11
4 1/2" Grinder $40
35' Tubing $69.00
Pinion Guard, link mounts, bolts $82.76
Front Heims, axle bracket $360.25
72' 1.75" DOM, 24' 2" DOM $417.68
60 Truss, Mounts, Tabs $286.56
Sold Front seats, consul ($60)
Welding Helmet $140
Tube notcher/accessories $75.00
Sold Tailgate ($75)
EB sheet metal $250
14Bolt Wheel Studs and Lugs $85.00
14Bolt Disc Brake kit $345.71
Sold fender, hood ($50.00)
scrapped metal ($28.80)
Argon/CO2 Refill $26.49
14 Bolt shave cover $139.85
King Pin seals and bushings $28.39
Gusset Kit $75
60 Rotors, seals, brake pads $126.00
40" Trep Stickies $2,716
17" TG Bead Locks $1,344.40
Expendables $20
Welding wire $45
40' 1 3/4 .120 $60.00
40' 1 1/2 .120 DOM $80
Batt Box, Tube Clamps, tabs $227
Corbeau 36" Bench Seat $267
Full Hydro Steering $1,363.57
High steer Arms $180.00
Shock brackets $77.92
(4) 16" ORI STX's $2,767.80
Shock Hardware $30.00
Argon/CO2 Refill $32.45
Rad, fan, oil coolers,fuel cell $595.15
Angle Iron $11.00


Total $15,763.01
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Old 11-29-2015, 04:06 PM   #103 (permalink)
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Built a fan shroud this last week and got the radiator, and transmission cooler mounts built. Also was able to get some reinforcement in the front suspension complete. Plan is to try and knock out the exhaust and some sheet metal over Christmas break.

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Old 11-29-2015, 05:39 PM   #104 (permalink)
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Drive Shaft Question

So the front driveshaft is going to have to be a 2 piece. What's the best way to go about this?
$400-$550 for one of these
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Or $50 for this and run an existing driveshaft I have through an OEM style carrier bearing?
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Something else? Thanks for the help.

Last edited by maquet24; 11-29-2015 at 05:41 PM.
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Old 11-30-2015, 11:07 AM   #105 (permalink)
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I am planning to run the carrier bearing style. I would say the first version would do better with vibrations and weird angles.
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Old 12-04-2015, 06:41 AM   #106 (permalink)
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Lookin sweet buddy!

Only one concern I see, your front shock tabs being on the side of the tube, that puts a lot of stress on the tube, any plan on beefing that area up?
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Old 12-04-2015, 07:04 PM   #107 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Lookin sweet buddy!

Only one concern I see, your front shock tabs being on the side of the tube, that puts a lot of stress on the tube, any plan on beefing that area up?
Yes, plan was to work on the front and rear shock tab reinforcement this weekend. I did beef the front a little with the cross brace and down tubes but my goal (not that I intend to do it regularly) is to be able to jump it a little and not F everything up.

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Also, talked with Offroad Design this evening and should have an NP205 in the mail shortly!
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Old 12-04-2015, 09:43 PM   #108 (permalink)
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I change carrier bearings all the time at work on dump trucks and garbage trucks, Granted they are much larger but so is the load and force on them. They certainly take one hell of a beating before they die.
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Old 12-06-2015, 08:44 PM   #109 (permalink)
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IMO Don't use an OEM carrier bearing. My dad's jeep uses one on the front two piece driveshaft and he has replaced it a few times and there's enough flex in the rubber that the shafts move around some. They just don't last long. I think his comes from a ford ranger application.

An inexpensive way to go is to find a pillow block bearing that has the right ID for the driveshaft your going to use. That way it's rebuildable, greasable, and solid.

On the other hand you might have great luck with it.
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Last edited by sayb2; 12-06-2015 at 08:45 PM.
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Old 12-06-2015, 08:48 PM   #110 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maquet24 View Post
Built a fan shroud this last week and got the radiator, and transmission cooler mounts built. Also was able to get some reinforcement in the front suspension complete. Plan is to try and knock out the exhaust and some sheet metal over Christmas break.

Attachment 2025114

Attachment 2024954

Attachment 2024962

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Attachment 2025066
I'd recommend spacing the fan shroud away from the face of the radiator. It will allow the fan to pull air from more of the radiator core. With it right against the core the fan is really only pulling from the area immediately near the fan.
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Old 12-06-2015, 08:53 PM   #111 (permalink)
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Quote:
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After a month of waiting the Artec truss showed up this week. I got it welded up and tacked to the Axle along with the front four link. Feeling pretty confident with the spacing and even think I'll be able to get the stock radiator in up front.

I'm building it at Full Bump with the .120 wall links. Once I've cycled it and have the front end built I'll build the 2" .250 wall uppers and lowers.

Attachment 1633457

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Mocked up the Ram Truss and I think it's all going to go together pretty good.

Attachment 1633481
Good call on the bolt orientation for the upper link mounts. I agree with the thinking and logic that goes with it.

For your tube bending there is a free app for Android devices called bendcalc lite that is easy to use. Free too.
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Old 12-08-2015, 06:23 PM   #112 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sayb2 View Post
IMO Don't use an OEM carrier bearing. My dad's jeep uses one on the front two piece driveshaft and he has replaced it a few times and there's enough flex in the rubber that the shafts move around some. They just don't last long. I think his comes from a ford ranger application.

An inexpensive way to go is to find a pillow block bearing that has the right ID for the driveshaft your going to use. That way it's rebuildable, greasable, and solid.

On the other hand you might have great luck with it.
I've been doing a little more research and the Pillow Block is what I'm leaning towards.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sayb2 View Post
I'd recommend spacing the fan shroud away from the face of the radiator. It will allow the fan to pull air from more of the radiator core. With it right against the core the fan is really only pulling from the area immediately near the fan.
Right now the fan is spaced about 3/16-1/4"off the radiator. I thought this would be about right to get the flow I need from the entire radiator. I could go about another 1/4" if I had to move It out though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sayb2 View Post
Good call on the bolt orientation for the upper link mounts. I agree with the thinking and logic that goes with it.

For your tube bending there is a free app for Android devices called bendcalc lite that is easy to use. Free too.
Just downloaded the App and it looks pretty sweet I need to do some test bends with my bender but I think it'll work awesome, thanks!

I saw your location. Are you in KAF or BAF? I just got back from JAF last year and KAF a few years before that. Hope you don't have too much time left over there. Thanks for the constructive advice.
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Old 12-08-2015, 07:34 PM   #113 (permalink)
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I was in the mountains of Eastern Afghanistan in 2011-2012. Just never changed anything since then. I'm still there in a way.
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Old 12-13-2015, 04:49 PM   #114 (permalink)
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It's a roller!
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Tube Bender $820.00
HF Ram $80.00
120' DOM Tubing $620.00
Casters $16.00
Mig Wire $30.00
Hydraulic Oil $5.00
metal/wd 40 $26.00
93 Bronco $700.00
Tow $60.00
Engine mounts, truss suspension stuff $139.40
Rear four link $350.00
Exhaust manifold $33.00
Sold, top ($40.00)
Sold, rear axle, brush guard ($160.00)
Expendables $15.00
Sold, Tires/wheels ($100.00)
Scrapped Body/Frame ($210.60)
1991 Ford Dana 60 HP KP $1,000
Dana 60 Ram truss/mount $100
Welding/Grinding Expendables $46.00
Rear four link hardware $44.41
Argon/CO2 Refill $26.49
Torch at the Auto Craft Shop $11
4 1/2" Grinder $40
35' Tubing $69.00
Pinion Guard, link mounts, bolts $82.76
Front Heims, axle bracket $360.25
72' 1.75" DOM, 24' 2" DOM $417.68
60 Truss, Mounts, Tabs $286.56
Sold Front seats, consul ($60)
Welding Helmet $140
Tube notcher/accessories $75.00
Sold Tailgate ($75)
EB sheet metal $250
14Bolt Wheel Studs and Lugs $85.00
14Bolt Disc Brake kit $345.71
Sold fender, hood ($50.00)
scrapped metal ($28.80)
Argon/CO2 Refill $26.49
14 Bolt shave cover $139.85
King Pin seals and bushings $28.39
Gusset Kit $75
60 Rotors, seals, brake pads $126.00
40" Trep Stickies $2,716
17" TG Bead Locks $1,344.40
Expendables $20
Welding wire $45
40' 1 3/4 .120 $60.00
40' 1 1/2 .120 DOM $80
Batt Box, Tube Clamps, tabs $227
Corbeau 36" Bench Seat $267
Full Hydro Steering $1,363.57
High steer Arms $180.00
Shock brackets $77.92
(4) 16" ORI STX's $2,767.80
Shock Hardware $30.00
Argon/CO2 Refill $32.45
Rad, fan, oil coolers,fuel cell $595.15
Angle Iron $11.00
20' 1.75 & 20' 1.5" DOM $171.20
Fan shroud metal $24.71
rubber isolators $7.00
Cut off wheel $12.00
Welding Wire $42.00


Total $16,019.92
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Old 12-14-2015, 02:32 PM   #115 (permalink)
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looking good man!!! I used a 14 bolt pinion and cut the head off it and add a pillow block I have like 150.00 in to it with the new CV





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Old 12-16-2015, 07:24 PM   #116 (permalink)
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Looks like a pretty good compact design. Do you get much vibration from it? Any concern about tcase damage from no slip in the shaft?
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Old 12-17-2015, 12:00 PM   #117 (permalink)
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Looks like a pretty good compact design. Do you get much vibration from it? Any concern about tcase damage from no slip in the shaft?
Very little to none... the CV helps out with the Vibrations, and no need for a slip on the upper half, my drivetrain is on ploy mounts and there is a CV that will allow for some movement up and down...
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Old 12-26-2015, 02:02 PM   #118 (permalink)
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build looks great. How are ya gonna wire the motor up?
Standalone or use factory harness?
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Old 12-26-2015, 02:40 PM   #119 (permalink)
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Check out this item I found on eBay: http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?n...494327&alt=web I find this on eBay and would a great way to start wiring your buggy.
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Old 12-26-2015, 08:11 PM   #120 (permalink)
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build looks great. How are ya gonna wire the motor up?
Standalone or use factory harness?
Quote:
Originally Posted by sayb2 View Post
Check out this item I found on eBay: http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?n...494327&alt=web I find this on eBay and would a great way to start wiring your buggy.
Thanks guys, you're definitely thinking about the same things I am. I think I'm going to send off the factory harness to get it slimmed down and get the computer flashed.

Sayb2 I like the harness you've got in the link and I was thinking something like that originally but I've got a gov't funded vacation coming up and I think I'm going to use that time to build a fuse/switch panel. I'm going to try and mimic a helicopter configuration I'm familiar with. Something kind of like this;

Overhead switch panel with push to reset breakers
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Lower left hand corner of the picture is the pilots collective with integrated switch panel.
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__________/\ ______so that's a collective. You pull it up and down to change the pitch in the main rotor system of a helicopter. Another cool feature is that is has a switch panel that incorporates a start switch and a few other buttons that kind of resemble winch controls.... I haven't seen a t-case shifter oriented in a way that it engages in a vertical motion before, so... My plan is to build something similar. Not as easy as doing it traditionally but should be just as functional and build on a subtle theme I intend to incorporate into the build.
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Old 12-26-2015, 08:17 PM   #121 (permalink)
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Who is redoing your harness for you?
i need the same thing done
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Old 12-26-2015, 11:46 PM   #122 (permalink)
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WWW.150tunes.com is a good place I hear and is run by Wayne hartwig. He is a member in here. That link uses a setup you can by and configure however you want for your fuses and relays. It's from littlefuse. Bussman has similar kits.

Look at the panels from 12voltunlimited.com. they are backlit and you can get then with the breakers. Or rocker switches with different logos on them are available from many places. Just some ideas.

Another option I just saw the other day at NSR off-road is a switch with integrated breaker. It's from an aerospace application. It resets itself and is fairly high amperage rated I think. I'll see if I can get more info.
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Old 12-27-2015, 04:59 AM   #123 (permalink)
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150Tunes.com is a good place I hear and is run by Wayne hartwig. He is a member in here. That link uses a setup you can by and configure however you want for your fuses and relays. It's from littlefuse. Bussman has similar kits.

Look at the panels from 12voltunlimited.com. they are backlit and you can get then with the breakers. Or rocker switches with different logos on them are available from many places. Just some ideas.

Another option I just saw the other day at NSR off-road is a switch with integrated breaker. It's from an aerospace application. It resets itself and is fairly high amperage rated I think. I'll see if I can get more info.
Thanks man!

I was thinking about something like this. What do you think?
Blue Sea 7057 Circuit Breaker 20A
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*edit, just saw the ones 12voltunlimited has and they look sweet!

Last edited by maquet24; 12-27-2015 at 05:07 AM.
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Old 12-27-2015, 09:34 PM   #124 (permalink)
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Look up circuit breaker toggle switch. It'll make everything much more compact and less components.

Goatbuilt has a 12 circuit wiring harness that's well priced also. Comes with a sealed fuse/relay block from bussman. Here's another pirate vendor and easy to deal with. I have a brake setup is like to talk to you about also. It's something I came up with on a buggy I rebuilt for a customer.
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Old 12-27-2015, 09:38 PM   #125 (permalink)
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Look me up on Facebook under smash Motorsports
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