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Old 08-02-2015, 10:26 PM   #126 (permalink)
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Old 08-30-2015, 05:13 PM   #127 (permalink)
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Well I got the rig out on the rocks finally. I swapped in the taurus fan and made a shroud. Seems to work ok. I wired it so the low is triggered by a thermal switch and high is triggered via a red guarded switch in the cab. Normal driving it keeps the engine temps 190-210. Transmission seems to be all over the place. I think the temp sender for the tranny is too close to the exhaust and it gets soaked with radiant heat. According to the gauge at one point doing 60 mph in 90 degrees caused it to hit 230. But just crawling on the rocks it stayed at around 200. The only heat issue that had me worried was driving back on the freeway on a steep grade about 2 miles long, the engine go super hot it hit 230 as I pulled over. So I guess I need to keep working on my cooling system.

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Old 08-30-2015, 08:35 PM   #128 (permalink)
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Looking good buddy. What about one of those high dollar dual fan setups?

That is probably the one thing I worried about most is temperature control with both my rigs. Are you running aux puller fans for anything?
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Old 08-31-2015, 01:33 AM   #129 (permalink)
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Just the Taurus fan, I thought it should be enough but now I don't know. I'm also wondering if I need to maybe cut some holes in the shroud for air flow at high speed like the freeway
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Old 08-31-2015, 01:46 PM   #130 (permalink)
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Great build! I have a 1990 and have been searching for ideas. Yours is almost exactly what I imagined mine to be. I will be purchasing all of my parts while I'm on my deployment too. I hope you don't mind me asking questions along the way.
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Old 08-31-2015, 08:08 PM   #131 (permalink)
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Do you have any heat extractors?

Are you running the ranger radiator?
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Old 08-31-2015, 11:41 PM   #132 (permalink)
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What do you mean by heat extractors? I have a speedway universal aluminum radiator.
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Old 09-01-2015, 08:20 AM   #133 (permalink)
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What do you mean by heat extractors? I have a speedway universal aluminum radiator.
Duh, I remember you saying that earlier. Sorry for the repeat question.

Vents, like all the ja-heeps and shit have. Ja-heeps have a really bad problem with heat soak, and your truck running at a constant RPM for that long could be causing heat soak if there really is no way for all that heat to escape under the hood.
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Old 09-01-2015, 09:21 PM   #134 (permalink)
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I put 3/8" rubber spacers between the hood hinge and hood at the rear on mine to give a poor man's "cowl" hood and let the head out during the summer for mine.
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Old 09-06-2015, 11:39 AM   #135 (permalink)
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Yeah after this last outing I have another list of things to do.
-figure out cooling issue, make speed holes in shroud for highway operations
-move transmission temp sender closer to radiator to reduce chance of false reading from exhaust manifold
-adjust t case linkages, had an issue with 2wd hi popping out of gear a couple time
-heat shield mufflers
-extend exhaust to exit down and out from the sides of the bed instead of just down pipes (sounds cool, annoying when you cant hear your spotter


Ive also been throwing around the idea of starting a different transmission. I should have got a tranny with OD from the start, but you live and learn. I'm thinking about adapting to a 700 r4 since my t-case input spline would still match. Any thoughts?
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Old 09-06-2015, 01:10 PM   #136 (permalink)
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700 are great after a rebuild. Stock clutches and torque converter can't really handle anything other than being behind a 200hp 305, so I'd fix those, and run a good cooler. That super low 1st gear and relatively small case makes them a kick ass trans
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Old 09-07-2015, 09:59 PM   #137 (permalink)
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700r4 makes the most sense. I know I think my slight over heating issue is due to not having over drive.
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Old 09-07-2015, 10:12 PM   #138 (permalink)
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That's kind of what I've been thinking too. It's going to be quite an investment though, and I'm not 100% convinced yet it's the way to go. I've been reading a ton of horror stories of guys that can't get them to live in an off-road setup.
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Old 09-07-2015, 10:55 PM   #139 (permalink)
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AOD with 4R70W guts...?
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Old 09-08-2015, 10:07 AM   #140 (permalink)
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That's kind of what I've been thinking too. It's going to be quite an investment though, and I'm not 100% convinced yet it's the way to go. I've been reading a ton of horror stories of guys that can't get them to live in an off-road setup.
guy on explorer forum, his name is Madness or Maniac or something like that. Has a blue 1st gen sploder with a 700r4 in it.
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Old 09-08-2015, 06:30 PM   #141 (permalink)
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guy on explorer forum, his name is Madness or Maniac or something like that. Has a blue 1st gen sploder with a 700r4 in it.
It is Maniak. So does another user Bkennedy but both of them are using the Advance Adapter bellhousing adapter and running them behind stock 4.0 engines.
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Old 09-09-2015, 05:42 AM   #142 (permalink)
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It is Maniak. So does another user Bkennedy but both of them are using the Advance Adapter bellhousing adapter and running them behind stock 4.0 engines.
That is true. Does AA make an adapter that would work with yours Grunz?
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Old 02-21-2016, 04:29 PM   #143 (permalink)
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Ok time for an overdue update. So the current plan is to swap in a ZF5 speed that is on it's way as we speak. Going back to manual will give me back over drive and that third pedal Ive been missing.

For transfer case and doubler, I found a Behemoth shorty doubler like the one I have on the C4, except this one has 1356 guts, 31 spline input and the correct pattern for the ZF5. So all I will have to do I swap the trannys and then swap the new doubler onto the dana 300 and save me a bunch of money from going to an entirely different setup.



Also I picked up a console from RockRanger a couple months ago and just finally go the motivation and warm weather to put it together. Its very nice and great quality! I painted it with rustoleum metal iron paint. It will get installed when I get the ZF5 put in.

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Old 02-27-2016, 12:55 PM   #144 (permalink)
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That's the same setup I'm running. I just put my doubler back I after a rebuild. I moved the vent to the back half of the T-case and put an updated planetary in. I'm also going to run ATF instead of gear oil. Hopefully that'll keep it from puking the oil out when I get up to 45mph.

Weren't you having the same problem?
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Old 02-27-2016, 01:06 PM   #145 (permalink)
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That's the same setup I'm running. I just put my doubler back I after a rebuild. I moved the vent to the back half of the T-case and put an updated planetary in. I'm also going to run ATF instead of gear oil. Hopefully that'll keep it from puking the oil out when I get up to 45mph.

Weren't you having the same problem?
When I first installed my current doubler, it was puking fluid, but it was over serviced and I didn't have a catch can. I made a catch can and serviced it with less oil and I haven't had a problem with the fluid since. I did have several shift mechanism problems, but have also cured that in the current box and this new doubler has a different internal shifter than the previous 2 versions Jacob tried and it looks like it should.

When I swap this new setup in I'm also going to run ATF as well
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Old 02-27-2016, 01:15 PM   #146 (permalink)
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You wouldn't happen to have a picture of the new internal shift mechanism would you? Is Jacob still in business? He won't respond to me any more. He promised me a new box as a warranty due to the issues I've had. He stopped responding to me a year and a half ago.
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Old 02-27-2016, 01:32 PM   #147 (permalink)
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http://i64.tinypic.com/2m4stn6.jpg

That's the picture of the newer shift
Mechanism. I don't have a picture of the previous older designs that I had trouble with.
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Old 02-27-2016, 01:47 PM   #148 (permalink)
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That looks like the same design I have. It would pop into neutral on me when I was going forwards down hill or accelerated then let off. I adjusted the detent adjuster about as far in as it will go with the lock nut still working. Hope that fixed it. If not I'll find a longer spring.
What did you do to fix the shift issue you were having?
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Old 02-27-2016, 05:25 PM   #149 (permalink)
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That looks like the same design I have. It would pop into neutral on me when I was going forwards down hill or accelerated then let off. I adjusted the detent adjuster about as far in as it will go with the lock nut still working. Hope that fixed it. If not I'll find a longer spring.
What did you do to fix the shift issue you were having?
The problem I had was that it wouldn't stay in high range at all, any speed or gear. The fix was a different shift mechanism. The first 2 styles Jacob tried are different than the current style. I hope this one doesn't pop out going downhill, that could be bad off road
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Old 02-27-2016, 05:35 PM   #150 (permalink)
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Oh I see. I'm thinking it might be the depth of the shift detent holes...


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