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Old 03-21-2016, 07:07 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Brand new 2000 F250 need advice

Alright guys just recently made the jump from a 2002 VW Jetta TDI (Daily) and a 1988 Jeep Comanche (Offroad toy) to a 2000 Ford F250 Power Stroke. It is a extended cab, long bed, 4x4, automatic with a 6 setting tuner (Stock, High Idle, 40hp, 60hp, 80hp and 100hp), AFE intake, injectors, and a 4" turbo back exhaust.

1) I would love to do some light wheeling in this truck but she is so clean that I feel bad bashing her up, I started looking at a set of sliders for this truck. There are plenty for short beds but I am having trouble finding a set for a long bed. The factory steps are long gone. Unfortunately with this factory lift my girlfriend now has trouble getting into the truck. I am not looking for a set of steps (the main goal is to protect the truck) but I am ok with the sliders having a little step in them. Does anybody know of reasonably price set that will do the job?

2) This truck doesn't like to go into 4wd (high or low). I was told by the seller that you put the transmission in neutral, transfer case in neutral, lock the hubs then transfer case in gear then transmission. Similar process for putting it back into 2wd. Every time I do this though (all three times haha) it wasn't very clean and ground a little bit. It there a better process?

3) What other modifications would you recommend? Skid pans, etc? This is a daily driver so I would like to avoid anything that is going to completely ruin my already low mpg (I went from 52mpg from that Jetta to 19 open highway FML)

Appreciate the help guys!

Last edited by BootsNTrucks; 03-21-2016 at 07:14 PM.
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Old 03-21-2016, 07:33 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Is it auto lock hubs or manual hubs?

The oe hubs kind of suck and will get stuck, pull them out and tear them down and clean them.

Is it a manual tcase lever or a elec switch?
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Old 03-21-2016, 07:34 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Is it auto lock hubs or manual hubs?

Is it a manual tcase lever or a elec switch?
Manual and manual
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Old 03-21-2016, 07:40 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Lock the hubs.

You can stright shift into 4 hi, to get 4 low you should be in neural on the trans.

To get the hubs locked in turn the steering wheel and zig zag while rolling. If you have doubts lock them in before you need them, then you just need to shift the tcase.

If you still wont lock in the you need to do some inspecting.

Youll need to just feel it out a bit till you get used to operating it.
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Last edited by total newb; 03-21-2016 at 07:41 PM.
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Old 03-21-2016, 07:46 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Lock the hubs.

You can stright shift into 4 hi, to get 4 low you should be in neural on the trans.

To get the hubs locked in turn the steering wheel and zig zag while rolling. If you have doubts lock them in before you need them, then you just need to shift the tcase.

If you still wont lock in the you need to do some inspecting.

Youll need to just feel it out a bit till you get used to operating it.
Alright I will give this a shot. With the MJ you could hit 4HI anytime at any speed and the low wasn't supposed to be engaged if you were going faster than 5 mph. What are the speeds on this truck? I'm guessing stopped is ideal for 4 low if you are saying make sure it is in neutral.

I'm starting to wish I had the owners manual for this truck.
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Old 03-21-2016, 07:46 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Brand new 2000 F250 need advice

I've got a 99.5 with a 6 speed and it is the smoothest shifting selector I've owned. Manual hubs and manual lever. I just lock the hubs and either hit the clutch or put it N and the lever moves easily. I don't have to rock it or have it rolling. Your setup may need to be rolling a bit. 2-3mph or a slight roll allows the syncros to do their work. You may try putting it in neutral and shifting while rolling. Another option is looking into adjusting the linkage.
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Old 03-21-2016, 07:51 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Mj dont have hubs and at best they had the vac disco on the axle housing which is auto engaging when you shifted the tcase.

Fwiw this is how a truck should be.
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Old 03-21-2016, 07:53 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Mj dont have hubs and at best they had the vac disco on the axle housing which is auto engaging when you shifted the tcase.

Fwiw this is how a truck should be.
Mine did after I added hubs, a front locker and eliminated that whole vacuum disconnect nonsense.
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Old 03-21-2016, 08:15 PM   #9 (permalink)
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So you still needed to lock them in.

The tcases are basicaly the same just the 271 is bigger than the 231.

It just takes some getting used to.
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Old 03-21-2016, 08:34 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Prior to 02, the 271 had a problem with not oiling the shift forks, and eating up the pads followed by...$$$.
If it's not been rebuilt, it still has that issue.There is an updated mainshaft and IIRC, range hub.

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Old 03-21-2016, 08:37 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Prior to 02, the 271 had a problem with not oiling the shift forks, and eating up the pads followed by...$$$.
If it's not been rebuilt, it still has that issue.
4x4 has barely been used, guy had it because he was a desert rat and wanted to make sure he didn't get stuck with his toy box. Says he can't remember the last time it was used.

Tranny was rebuilt about 90k ago but as far as I can tell transfer case wasn't touched. Is there anything I can do to prevent/lessen it?
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Old 03-21-2016, 08:59 PM   #12 (permalink)
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For starters they are a wear item.

Idk how they could have an oiling issue. The chain still roll throught the oil and draw up onto the assembly and the oil pumps still pump through the main shaft and spooge. Unless there was a oiling hole added in the main shaft i dont see how there could be any improvement.

Use of 4x has nothing to do with it.the collar constantly spins through the fork.

Check and keep the tcase topped up with atf.
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Old 03-22-2016, 03:57 AM   #13 (permalink)
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