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Old 04-23-2016, 06:29 PM   #51 (permalink)
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Video of a rocker not rocking

https://youtu.be/dLweHDTY9X4

Turned out to be a bent pushrod. Pretty sure lifter is free. Had to run out of town to her a replacement and didn't get back in time to install today.
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Old 04-24-2016, 03:37 AM   #52 (permalink)
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Make sure the valve isn't stuck.
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Old 04-24-2016, 06:16 AM   #53 (permalink)
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You can see it bouncing in the video so I'm hoping not, but I'll try to make sure as best I can.
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Old 04-24-2016, 09:08 AM   #54 (permalink)
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You can see it bouncing in the video so I'm hoping not, but I'll try to make sure as best I can.
BFH may be necessary.

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Old 04-24-2016, 11:49 AM   #55 (permalink)
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I gave the valve and lifter a seafoam bath overnight and this morning the lifter lifted easily and the valve moved when I pried it slightly so I reinstalled the new pushrod and was treated to a quiet smooth running engine. Still has something else going on where it's kind of got a shudder at idle, maybe just needs timing set and some more fresh gas. But runs a million times better and smooths out above idle. Gonna reinstall valve covers and test drive some this afternoon. Maybe try to bleed brakes first.
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Old 04-24-2016, 11:56 AM   #56 (permalink)
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BFH may be necessary.

Always a disappointment when I don't get to use my favorite tool.
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Old 04-24-2016, 09:13 PM   #57 (permalink)
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Rear brake line is rusted through and the fuel filter is clogged with rust sediment as I got closer to the bottom of the tank. Probably will buy a couple of them, as I'm guessing it will take a few tanks of gas before that crap gets cleaned out.

I did clean up the valve covers and scrub and pressure wash them and give them some fresh paint before installing with new rubber gaskets and a smaller air filter I had laying around. Looks a lot better anyway.

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Old 04-28-2016, 03:31 PM   #58 (permalink)
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I had to do the ball joints on my excursion (which is totally for sale if anyone wants to buy an 04 studded 6.0 in mint condition), and the rolling tool box came in really handy as the ball joints turned into a 2 day affair (started after work and hit a few snags). I built the gas air compressor 7 or 8 years ago and the tank is starting to rust from the inside. It was an old tank when I acquired it. Anyway, I'm gonna try to find a smaller one and rebuild it so it will fit under the cover of the utility body.





I also got some decent free tires off Craigslist. The kumhos are 31's and the bfg's are 32's. I'm planning on swapping the 2.75 rear for 9" with rusted crusted brakes for the 3.55 9" off the 4wd frame with new brakes, and it looks like my 2wd has the slightly narrower springs (they measure out like 2 3/4 ish) so I'll probably just torch the hanger rivets on both trucks and swap the whole assembly, springs and hangers and all.


Mounted them on the free wheels that came with the 4wd frame using my trusty harbor freight manual changer. All the flex, awkward goodness that $36 can buy. It will he thoroughly welded and reinforced before I use it again. I bent it breaking beads.


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Old 04-29-2016, 08:46 AM   #59 (permalink)
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This truck has a 70's front sump oil pan on the 302. I know with 460's, the front sump pan will thump the front diff on a 4wd. Ford didn't switch to rear or hump sump 302 pans until 1980, but they did so on all trucks, 4wd and 2wd. Does anyone know if this front sump pan will work if I swap in the front frame boxing and Dana 44 off the 4wd frame? It is a lot smaller than the 460 so I'm thinking it might actually be ok, but if it won't work I'd rather know sooner rather than run into the problem after I have it all bolted back together.
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Old 04-29-2016, 05:55 PM   #60 (permalink)
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Undid broken section of brake line, which broke the rear most section. Undid rear most section from soft line, bought replacements and unions. Middle section won't thread into somewhat corroded union that was on there. Front section that I didn't replace looks like it's a dirty glance away from springing a leak, the rear most section wouldn't thread into the soft like to the axle, which was terrible looking. The 4wd parts frame had a new soft line so I was installing it when the short hard line to drivers wheel cylinder broke. Looks like the rear axle swaparoo will happen much sooner than I'd planned. I just hope a new union will make the brake lines play nice, or maybe I should bite the bullet and replace the front section all the way to the combo valve. My luck, it won't thread into that if I do. Such is life.
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Old 04-29-2016, 08:30 PM   #61 (permalink)
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I have a rear sump pan, pickup and stud for sale if you want to ditch the front sump
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Old 04-29-2016, 09:38 PM   #62 (permalink)
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Yeah? Send me a message let me know what you're asking. I'm in wv 25414. I'm not sure if I'll need it or not yet, can't get a straight answer. Not many people running 302's in the 70's 4wds since they didn't come that way. The 80's 4wd's had rear sump but they didn't use a straight axle either, and the x member is a little different.
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Old 04-30-2016, 08:35 PM   #63 (permalink)
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I made the mistake of running the tank low and the engine stopped running, fuel filter was pretty well plugged.



I changed it but whatever damage happened was already done. Thinking the lines are plugged or the pump sucked enough crap that it's done. New pumps are reasonably priced, but would really like to change the tank. It doesn't look terrible inside but does have some rusty stuff sloshing around.



Everything under this truck has the layer of thin rust of a truck that sat for a while.



Plan is to was hangers, springs, and diff for the freshened f100 9" off the 4wd frame. Notice the difference in the center section, but oh well. It's got a new 31 spline center section and new brakes, and the original one has nasty rusted brakes and a half inch of pinion play.



Here's a shot of my mobile destruction rig for the day.



With any luck, I'll have the skinny spring hangers and the crusty axle out by tomorrow afternoon.

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Old 05-01-2016, 05:35 PM   #64 (permalink)
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Broke out the torchenator 3000 for a second day.



Bye, piece of crap.

I don't need to imagine what the neighbors think of my little shit show.



4wd 3" spring hangers, leaf springs, and the f100 9" which seems in good shape, installed.



Like the way it sits on the 31's. Looks like 32-33's should clear. Perfect. Need to finish the brake lines, hook up shocks, e brake, and driveshaft, and then figure out what I'm gonna do with the rusty fuel tank situation. Minor details, for another day. Oh, and that front axle thing needs installed.

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Old 05-01-2016, 06:26 PM   #65 (permalink)
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New tanks are not that pricey, 120 ish from advance auto and you can always find some sort of a discount code to get it even less.
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Old 05-01-2016, 06:37 PM   #66 (permalink)
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Oh they are like $80 shipped for steel, but I kind of have a thing for plastic tanks and they are $140 plus shipping... I'm usually kind of broke and I'm super broke at the moment buying parts and junk for this jalopy.
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Old 05-01-2016, 08:13 PM   #67 (permalink)
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Oh they are like $80 shipped for steel, but I kind of have a thing for plastic tanks and they are $140 plus shipping... I'm usually kind of broke and I'm super broke at the moment buying parts and junk for this jalopy.
Can you use a tank from an 80-96? Plastic tanks, nearly new suspension brackets, control arms and anything else that rusts are plentiful in the junkyard. Things rust out. People replace them and then their wife ignores the idiot light and runs the thing out of oil and to the junkyard it goes...

If you can't use a 80-96 tank because your frame is narrower check Chevy trucks, they stayed 34" through the 73-87 body style. Making a hybrid fuel pump is simple.

Steel tanks last 10-15yr in the salt states anyway, don't feel bad about buying steel if you want to save $80.
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Old 05-01-2016, 09:45 PM   #68 (permalink)
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I think I'm just going with the cheaper steel one for now, not sure what my long term plans are for the truck, if I end up going diesel I'll probably get an excursion tank, and if I end up fuel injected I will go with the late 80's fuel injected tank, probably. So a cheap steel one will see me through for another decade at least. Fuel pump is $18 so I'm gonna change it at the same time and try to stick a filter before it just in case any crud is left in the lines. Thought about running aluminum lines like I did in my other truck but these ones seem ok for now. Goal is just to keep it together and running so good enough for now keeps things moving.
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Old 05-02-2016, 08:51 AM   #69 (permalink)
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The 2.75's and od trans are bad, but one of my trucks came out of the factory with 2.47's and O/D.... Ford was smoking some real good stuff in the late 70's/early 80's...
For a fuel tank, I'm not sure how hard they are to find, but I have a nice 20 gallon plastic tank out of the rear of a 91 cab and chassis diesel in my wheeling rig that would probably fit in your rig nicely.


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Old 05-02-2016, 10:39 AM   #70 (permalink)
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Summit has good prices, I'm just gonna order one from them this week and rock it. I just want it to run again. Times a wastin.
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Old 05-02-2016, 01:21 PM   #71 (permalink)
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Also I didn't even know they made them with 2:47's. Drop a 460 in and hit 175 in od. Lol. I wonder what the trade-off was in actual mileage improvements vs damage to the clutch from lugging?
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Old 05-03-2016, 10:09 AM   #72 (permalink)
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New steel tank, new fuel pump, and 20' of aluminum 3/8 fuel line was $124 from summit. That's hard to beat. Wasn't gonna run a new fuel line but old one has some flakey spots and it only takes 5 mins to run, bend, and bead the new one on these old trucks. Replacing the rest of the fuel system so just figured why not.
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Old 05-03-2016, 08:27 PM   #73 (permalink)
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I went from the SROD to a NP435 with 2.75's in my 82 with a 300 and went from 235's to 31x10.50's. Picked up 4 mpg... Lol.
Ford claimed 29 highway out of trucks equipped as such though.

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Old 05-03-2016, 09:21 PM   #74 (permalink)
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Wow 29? I just swapped in a 3.55 rear end so that should help right off the bat. Once the np435 is I'm I'm expecting potential highway economy to decline but I'll actually have a first gear I could pull a trailer with or take off road. I also swapped 31's as you can see, the factory 2wd springs had overloads stacked on top and the 4wd didn't, I need to see how it squats loaded down, but I'm thinking when I eventually swap the 3/4 ton axles under it and buy some 16" wheels I will be shopping for 33" tires. The 8 lug frame I'm buying has 16.5's on it unfortunately, so they will have to be replaced since 16.5's have gone the way of the dodo. But the better gearing will help with the larger tires.

Also ordered a new sock and float for the sending unit. Old ones were toast. Brass float had rust holes. Never seen that before.
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Old 05-04-2016, 08:42 AM   #75 (permalink)
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Looks like it was a big jump in estimated mileage over 79 though:
https://youtu.be/JgPbHH8VPYw

With a decent running 302 and 3.50's I would expect to see mid teens, that's pretty much what the majority of these trucks got.
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