Ranger Hydro Assist - Which Pump - Page 6 - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum  

Go Back   Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum > Brand Specific Tech > Ford
Notices

Reply
 
Share LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 07-19-2017, 02:44 PM   #126 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Member # 100050
Location: Manito, IL
Posts: 1,499
Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh40601 View Post
hell you already lathed down a relief valve, cut the reservoir in half, and drilled/tapped the lid... Why the hell are you even debating on the pie cut on the 90? lol
You haven't seen my aluminum welds yet. I could end up with the elusive no-flow 90 when I'm done.

In all honesty, it's just a resistance to cutting up perfectly good parts. I know they're no good to me if they're not the geometry I need, but I still feel like I'm hacking shit up.

I think I'll try to bend it to the desired angle tonight. If that fails I can consider a pie cut and weld.

Quote:
edit: Thanks for the info DMan. I don't have a lathe, but my neighbor does... And he has a much better drill press... hmmmm
I haven't run it yet so I can't give a proper review, but I say go for it man. It's a cheap alternative to PSC's anti-splash valve, keeps everything local to the res, and doesn't take up hardly any space. It makes it a sealed system too, so no worries when you put your rig back on its lid.
__________________
96 Ranger-2012 4WOR Ultimate Adventure Invited Reader

Last edited by Bray D; 07-19-2017 at 02:50 PM.
Bray D is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-20-2017, 07:34 AM   #127 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Member # 665562
Posts: 36
Bending the fitting was a total win. I started by measuring the angle of the can port. Looks like a 75 would put it dead horizontal.



Turned a couple pins that fit pretty nice in the ends of the 90, clamped one in a vise, then slid a tube over the other.



Applied about 5lbs at the end of my 1.5' long tube and applied heat to the inside of the bend with a propane torch. Once it came up to temp, it moved smooth as silk. Very controlled with minimal stress on the end couplings. It deformed a decent amount, but it's still a super smooth transition.





Looks like I landed somewhere between 70 and 75 degrees. Just over 3 degrees of slope towards the pump.



Ran out of time this morning so I didn't get the res installed to check my fitting heights, but now that I know I can bend fittings, I should be able to make everything work.
Bray_D is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Old 07-20-2017, 07:52 AM   #128 (permalink)
Zeus of the Sluice
 
Josh40601's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Member # 171332
Location: San Diegoish
Posts: 3,706
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bray D View Post
You haven't seen my aluminum welds yet. I could end up with the elusive no-flow 90 when I'm done.
Bet they ain't as bad as mine

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bray D View Post
In all honesty, it's just a resistance to cutting up perfectly good parts. I know they're no good to me if they're not the geometry I need, but I still feel like I'm hacking shit up.

I think I'll try to bend it to the desired angle tonight. If that fails I can consider a pie cut and weld.
See, I would get that if it was the 200.00 reservoir...


Quote:
Originally Posted by Bray D View Post
It makes it a sealed system too, so no worries when you put your rig back on its lid.
When in Rome, I must do as the Romans...
__________________

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
The never-ending project

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
An old Explorer with a lot of dents
Josh40601 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
 
Old 07-20-2017, 08:04 AM   #129 (permalink)
E-Locker or Bust!
 
DMANbluesfreak's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Member # 163019
Location: Park Ridge, IL
Posts: 4,073
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bray_D View Post
Bending the fitting was a total win. I started by measuring the angle of the can port. Looks like a 75 would put it dead horizontal.

Hell yeah dude. What's left now? Fab up a more permanent bracket for the reservoir, cut and install the hose and fill the system?

Or do you still have some high-pressure-side stuff to design yet?
__________________
2001 Z71 Silverado, Ext. Cab, 5.3L V8 -
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Shortened 17" w/Bed, AAM 14B FF / Grizzly, Dana 60 HP / Chromos, Anti-Wrap Bar
4L80e, EcoBox/205 Doubler, 40" Mickey's, Rock Sliders, Hidden Winch, Hydro Assist
DMANbluesfreak is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-20-2017, 08:44 AM   #130 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Member # 100050
Location: Manito, IL
Posts: 1,499
Quote:
Originally Posted by DMANbluesfreak View Post
Hell yeah dude. What's left now? Fab up a more permanent bracket for the reservoir, cut and install the hose and fill the system?

Or do you still have some high-pressure-side stuff to design yet?
Still need to install the new gearbox and plumb everything from the pump to the box. The OEM high pressure hose fitting is only 90 off from what I need for this new pump, so that shouldn't be a big hurdle.

I need to decide if I want to install the cooler at this point in the build also. If so, I'll have some low pressure routing to figure out. All of these components are a decent distance apart though, so it should be as 'easy' as sourcing hose, fittings, and throwing everything together. No fiddlejacking with alignment like I've done north of the pump.

We're embarking for CO the evening of Aug 4. We're on short time.
__________________
96 Ranger-2012 4WOR Ultimate Adventure Invited Reader
Bray D is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-20-2017, 09:32 AM   #131 (permalink)
E-Locker or Bust!
 
DMANbluesfreak's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Member # 163019
Location: Park Ridge, IL
Posts: 4,073
I would definitely add the cooler now. It's pretty simple to do, and hose routing should also be simple enough. I wouldn't expect that to take you more than an hour or two.

That said, the system *should* be running cooler now with the new setup since the pump will be struggling less, so if it didn't have a cooler originally you'd probably be fine for a trip.

Good luck getting it all done. The hard part seems to be over.
__________________
2001 Z71 Silverado, Ext. Cab, 5.3L V8 -
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Shortened 17" w/Bed, AAM 14B FF / Grizzly, Dana 60 HP / Chromos, Anti-Wrap Bar
4L80e, EcoBox/205 Doubler, 40" Mickey's, Rock Sliders, Hidden Winch, Hydro Assist
DMANbluesfreak is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-20-2017, 09:45 AM   #132 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Member # 100050
Location: Manito, IL
Posts: 1,499
Yep, it shouldn't be too bad. It's probably best to just do it now and route my low pressure lines once and be done. Then all I have to do is figure out cylinder location, burn on some tabs, and hook up the lines to the box.

A cooler won't help this, but I'm curious how hot it'll run being a high flow pump with the small can on the back. That's a lot of fluid flowing through the internal bypass with a relatively small volume of fluid local to the pump to dissipate heat.
__________________
96 Ranger-2012 4WOR Ultimate Adventure Invited Reader
Bray D is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-20-2017, 10:28 AM   #133 (permalink)
E-Locker or Bust!
 
DMANbluesfreak's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Member # 163019
Location: Park Ridge, IL
Posts: 4,073
That's a good point. The cooler will help a little bit, though since you won't be constantly on the internal bypass. It'll keep the components cooler the second the bypass stops.

Keep in mind that the PSC can is just a modified GM van-style remote reservoir can - or very similar if it's not modified, so it's not like there hasn't been a similar application for it before that's had plentiful R&D done on it.
__________________
2001 Z71 Silverado, Ext. Cab, 5.3L V8 -
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Shortened 17" w/Bed, AAM 14B FF / Grizzly, Dana 60 HP / Chromos, Anti-Wrap Bar
4L80e, EcoBox/205 Doubler, 40" Mickey's, Rock Sliders, Hidden Winch, Hydro Assist

Last edited by DMANbluesfreak; 07-20-2017 at 10:30 AM.
DMANbluesfreak is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-20-2017, 10:48 AM   #134 (permalink)
P.B.A.
 
RANGERROD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Member # 172656
Location: Your moms
Posts: 4,194
Keep in mind that the fluid Psc recommends is like $10 a quart. So if you have to add a cooler it's like another $30 in fluid again later.

I would buy a smaller cooler than mine though.
RANGERROD is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-20-2017, 12:23 PM   #135 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Member # 100050
Location: Manito, IL
Posts: 1,499
Both valid points. I'll get that sucker tucked in behind the grille before adding fluid.

Ran home during lunch to check the res height relative to the modified pump fitting. It's near perfectly horizontal with it - just as it was with the unmodified 90 when it was rotated towards the res.

I think I'm going to cut my 3 tacks and turn the OEM weld off of the reservoir. Slide the threaded bung back into the res body and weld it up. That'll drop it another 1/2" or so, giving me more height above the pump fitting if I want it as well as some more clearance under the hood. It'll look cleaner with only 1 weld too.

That will bring me closer to 6.5" tall opposed to 8.25", though I believe PSC offered a 6" version at one time so I don't think I'm too short yet. They offer the 8.25" tall version with their full hydro kits, so I'm hoping this 6.5" one will be sufficient to handle a small assist cylinder. If not I'll add the additional chamber.
__________________
96 Ranger-2012 4WOR Ultimate Adventure Invited Reader
Bray D is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-20-2017, 09:25 PM   #136 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Member # 665562
Posts: 36
Ranger Hydro Assist - Which Pump

Back in the lathe it goes. Cut my welds, then turned the remainder of the can portion off of the threaded bung. I was able to keep a small locating shoulder, so that worked out well. It's right at 6.5" now.





Filter still fits - barely. I stuck it in there, then spun the cap on without the o ring. It sat tight without contacting the filter retaining bolt.



I also picked up fittings for a push lock arrangement to see if that would net me any more hose length. Nickels and dimes come in the form of 50's and 100's, eh?



Helped a little, but it's still damn tight in there.

The hose that came with it is Aeroquip FC598-12 AQP. Looked it up and it has a min bend radius of 6".

My plan is to pick up an ORB to barb fitting so I can lose the adapter at the reservoir. Orient the pump fitting wherever necessary to ensure I don't overbend the tube, then heat bend the push lock 90 to ensure a downward slope towards the pump. Should be at just over 3" of hose after doing all of that.

Is that enough? I don't fawking know. I think that's all I'm going to get though. I've exhausted every scenario for this location.

The alternative is to explore mounting the res over by the driver fender again. Now that I've shortened the can, it would fit. Decisions decisions.

Last edited by Bray_D; 07-20-2017 at 09:35 PM.
Bray_D is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-20-2017, 09:30 PM   #137 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Member # 665562
Posts: 36
Ranger Hydro Assist - Which Pump

I was pondering my tap locations on the box as well, so I opened it up again to have a look-see.

The port on the block brakes into the journal surface ever so slightly. When the piston is maxed out in that direction (full lock one direction), the seal peeks into the port. Probably 1/2 of the seal width is exposed. It's the white portion in the hole. Fuck.

I centered the port on that block widthwise with my edge finder. Apparently it needs to be biased towards the end of the box to avoid this - making the wall towards the end of the box quite thin. I probably should've just gone through the vane.


Last edited by Bray_D; 07-20-2017 at 09:33 PM.
Bray_D is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-20-2017, 09:37 PM   #138 (permalink)
P.B.A.
 
RANGERROD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Member # 172656
Location: Your moms
Posts: 4,194
^^^that is evidently what I did to my box is drilled and tapped just slightly wrong and both were on the same side of the seal. As soon as I touched the steering wheel tires off the ground it would shake violently back and forth. Like crazy death wobble. I had to tear mine apart plug that hole and retap it in a different location. It did bleed much easier the second time though
RANGERROD is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-20-2017, 11:01 PM   #139 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Member # 120478
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 1,285
Do the cooler now! I originally built my hydro assist system with no cooler for a snow run thinking it'd be fine and boiled the fluid out of the pump in the snow and 30* outside. An external cooler helps a ton!
__________________
Wheeler ->
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
90 Bronco with stuff
Dan90FSB is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-20-2017, 11:10 PM   #140 (permalink)
Rock God
 
bobbywalter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Member # 15473
Location: trenton mi
Posts: 2,001
Send a message via AIM to bobbywalter
__________________
if only




88 ranger ext cab p.o.s. hackjob powered by a 6.5 diesel clattering against a 4l80 thats punishing a f208 that is turning ford 60's rolling on 33-44 inch tires depending on the mission at hand


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
how ya like me now??
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
bobbywalter is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-21-2017, 07:28 AM   #141 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Member # 100050
Location: Manito, IL
Posts: 1,499
Quote:
Originally Posted by RANGERROD View Post
^^^that is evidently what I did to my box is drilled and tapped just slightly wrong and both were on the same side of the seal. As soon as I touched the steering wheel tires off the ground it would shake violently back and forth. Like crazy death wobble. I had to tear mine apart plug that hole and retap it in a different location. It did bleed much easier the second time though
Quote:
Originally Posted by bobbywalter View Post
So I suppose the general consensus is to re-drill, eh? I don't think a plug will do the trick for me as I'm not rebuilding a sealing surface for the seal. If the fluid was able to sneak around with the fitting in place, it would do the same with just a plug.

New box and start fresh? I know that's the safe thing to do, but I'm pissing money away at this point. With two weeks before the trip, there's little time for testing too. It may be worth the 150 bucks to put my best foot forward.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan90FSB View Post
Do the cooler now! I originally built my hydro assist system with no cooler for a snow run thinking it'd be fine and boiled the fluid out of the pump in the snow and 30* outside. An external cooler helps a ton!
Good to know. I'll get it plumbed up before I put fluid to it for sure. I have a little tube and fin cooler that I plan to mount in front of the radiator - should be pretty effective.
__________________
96 Ranger-2012 4WOR Ultimate Adventure Invited Reader

Last edited by Bray D; 07-21-2017 at 07:40 AM.
Bray D is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-21-2017, 07:51 AM   #142 (permalink)
E-Locker or Bust!
 
DMANbluesfreak's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Member # 163019
Location: Park Ridge, IL
Posts: 4,073
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bray_D View Post
I also picked up fittings for a push lock arrangement to see if that would net me any more hose length. Nickels and dimes come in the form of 50's and 100's, eh?



Helped a little, but it's still damn tight in there.

The hose that came with it is Aeroquip FC598-12 AQP. Looked it up and it has a min bend radius of 6".

My plan is to pick up an ORB to barb fitting so I can lose the adapter at the reservoir. Orient the pump fitting wherever necessary to ensure I don't overbend the tube, then heat bend the push lock 90 to ensure a downward slope towards the pump. Should be at just over 3" of hose after doing all of that.

Is that enough? I don't fawking know. I think that's all I'm going to get though. I've exhausted every scenario for this location.

The alternative is to explore mounting the res over by the driver fender again. Now that I've shortened the can, it would fit. Decisions decisions.
I think you're overthinking the hose situation.

The fittings you have are designed for push-lock hose... which requires no clamps to keep it in place. Nice and convenient, but the reinforcement required for this limits the bend radius to a pretty high number.

Check out McMaster part: 54595K31

It's designed for "low" pressure (300psi) hydraulic fluid flow and has a bend radius of 2.25". The ID is still 3/4" so add a hose clamp on the outside and I'm guessing it will still work well with your hose barbs. It's designed specifically for return lines on hydraulic systems. It's even rated to~14psi of vacuum. I'm sure your local speed shop or hydraulic shop can get you this so you're not wasting money on shipping costs from McMaster. Granted, this hose is ~$1/foot so... maybe it's worth doubling that cost for shipping.

I did some quick sketches in CAD with some estimations on barb angle and location and I came up with a bend radius of 4" where you have them currently. Add the ORB barb fitting and I estimate you're closer to 5.25". In either case, using a hose with a tighter bend radius, you'll be fine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bray_D View Post
I was pondering my tap locations on the box as well, so I opened it up again to have a look-see.

The port on the block brakes into the journal surface ever so slightly. When the piston is maxed out in that direction (full lock one direction), the seal peeks into the port. Probably 1/2 of the seal width is exposed. It's the white portion in the hole. Fuck.

I centered the port on that block widthwise with my edge finder. Apparently it needs to be biased towards the end of the box to avoid this - making the wall towards the end of the box quite thin. I probably should've just gone through the vane.

Since half of the seal is still there... is it possible to just put an internal stop inside the steering box so that the seal doesn't go past the port you drilled? We're only talking a couple degrees of steering loss, I'm guessing - you may even be limited by your steering stops on your knuckles before the steering box (I am not very familiar with your setup). You could then trim the fitting down so that the threads don't sink down into the chamber just in case.

Re-drilling the box is fine and all, but you'll never get that journal surface back to what it was designed to be (unless you add material and re-machine). Is this your plan?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan90FSB View Post
Do the cooler now! I originally built my hydro assist system with no cooler for a snow run thinking it'd be fine and boiled the fluid out of the pump in the snow and 30* outside. An external cooler helps a ton!
Yeah, even the puny stock vehicle PS coolers make a huge difference.
__________________
2001 Z71 Silverado, Ext. Cab, 5.3L V8 -
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Shortened 17" w/Bed, AAM 14B FF / Grizzly, Dana 60 HP / Chromos, Anti-Wrap Bar
4L80e, EcoBox/205 Doubler, 40" Mickey's, Rock Sliders, Hidden Winch, Hydro Assist

Last edited by DMANbluesfreak; 07-21-2017 at 07:58 AM.
DMANbluesfreak is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-21-2017, 08:09 AM   #143 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Member # 100050
Location: Manito, IL
Posts: 1,499
Quote:
Originally Posted by DMANbluesfreak View Post
I think you're overthinking the hose situation.

The fittings you have are designed for push-lock hose... which requires no clamps to keep it in place. Nice and convenient, but the reinforcement required for this limits the bend radius to a pretty high number.

Check out McMaster part: 54595K31

It's designed for "low" pressure (300psi) hydraulic fluid flow and has a bend radius of 2.25". The ID is still 3/4" so add a hose clamp on the outside and I'm guessing it will still work well with your hose barbs. It's designed specifically for return lines on hydraulic systems. It's even rated to~14psi of vacuum. I'm sure your local speed shop or hydraulic shop can get you this so you're not wasting money on shipping costs from McMaster. Granted, this hose is ~$1/foot so... maybe it's worth doubling that cost for shipping.
Yes! That's exactly what I need. All of my decisions thus far regarding the hydraulics is simply due to ignorance. I don't know what my options are, so I'm just rolling with what the guy behind the counter gives me for the fittings that are already on the pump/reservoir.

This is the specs for the hose I currently have. 1400psi burst pressure for use as a low pressure return line. Still way overkill for the application.

FC598-12 | Eaton PowerSource

Quote:
Originally Posted by DMANbluesfreak View Post
Since half of the seal is still there... is it possible to just put an internal stop inside the steering box so that the seal doesn't go past the port you drilled? We're only talking a couple degrees of steering loss, I'm guessing - you may even be limited by your steering stops on your knuckles before the steering box (I am not very familiar with your setup). You could then trim the fitting down so that the threads don't sink down into the chamber just in case.

Re-drilling the box is fine and all, but you'll never get that journal surface back to what it was designed to be (unless you add material and re-machine). Is this your plan?
Limiting the stroke is a good idea, but I don't think I want to limit my steering potential. Even if I don't use it all right now, something may change in the future that would allow me to utilize the full stroke. I'm not going to dick with trying to do a weld buildup / remachine either. I'll just run to the parts store and pick up another rebuilt box.

$150 bucks for peace of mind.
__________________
96 Ranger-2012 4WOR Ultimate Adventure Invited Reader
Bray D is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-21-2017, 08:57 AM   #144 (permalink)
E-Locker or Bust!
 
DMANbluesfreak's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Member # 163019
Location: Park Ridge, IL
Posts: 4,073
Is that you alluding to the fact that you're building a KP outer front axle?
__________________
2001 Z71 Silverado, Ext. Cab, 5.3L V8 -
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Shortened 17" w/Bed, AAM 14B FF / Grizzly, Dana 60 HP / Chromos, Anti-Wrap Bar
4L80e, EcoBox/205 Doubler, 40" Mickey's, Rock Sliders, Hidden Winch, Hydro Assist
DMANbluesfreak is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-21-2017, 09:20 AM   #145 (permalink)
Zeus of the Sluice
 
Josh40601's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Member # 171332
Location: San Diegoish
Posts: 3,706
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bray_D View Post
I was pondering my tap locations on the box as well, so I opened it up again to have a look-see.

The port on the block brakes into the journal surface ever so slightly. When the piston is maxed out in that direction (full lock one direction), the seal peeks into the port. Probably 1/2 of the seal width is exposed. It's the white portion in the hole. Fuck.

I centered the port on that block widthwise with my edge finder. Apparently it needs to be biased towards the end of the box to avoid this - making the wall towards the end of the box quite thin. I probably should've just gone through the vane.



That freakin sucks. The box on mine works very well. Do you want me to send you a pic of where the ports are?
__________________

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
The never-ending project

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
An old Explorer with a lot of dents
Josh40601 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-21-2017, 10:12 AM   #146 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Member # 100050
Location: Manito, IL
Posts: 1,499
Quote:
Originally Posted by DMANbluesfreak View Post
Is that you alluding to the fact that you're building a KP outer front axle?
That's a discussion for another thread.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh40601 View Post
That freakin sucks. The box on mine works very well. Do you want me to send you a pic of where the ports are?
If you have pics handy, the more info the better! DMAN threw out the idea of tapping right into the end of the box. Makes perfect sense. I'm going to measure that wall thickness to see if it would work.

Regarding the box issues, my current plan is to pull the box from my truck, disassemble and inspect, then drill/tap/reassemble with the 'new' reman parts.
__________________
96 Ranger-2012 4WOR Ultimate Adventure Invited Reader
Bray D is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-22-2017, 12:15 AM   #147 (permalink)
Zeus of the Sluice
 
Josh40601's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Member # 171332
Location: San Diegoish
Posts: 3,706
I'll get one in the morning for ya
__________________

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
The never-ending project

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
An old Explorer with a lot of dents
Josh40601 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-23-2017, 09:01 PM   #148 (permalink)
Zeus of the Sluice
 
Josh40601's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Member # 171332
Location: San Diegoish
Posts: 3,706


Bray, here is how many mine is plumbed. West Texas Off-Road was the ones that built this one for me.
__________________

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
The never-ending project

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
An old Explorer with a lot of dents
Josh40601 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-24-2017, 09:39 PM   #149 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Member # 665562
Posts: 36
Thanks Josh. That location looks pretty damn good. I'll eyeball the inside of the box when I open it up again to check it out, but I like it so far.

This weekend was spent doing work for other people and stuffing some new PRP's into the cab. Contrary to what the sales rep told me, their Ranger mounts WILL NOT FIT a 96 single cab truck. I had to fab my own. Approximately 6 hours of unexpected work.

Back on topic, I'm progressing on the steering again. The McMaster hose came in today and will hold a super tight bend. That's a win.

I welded up my reservoir too. Per typical, everything was up to temp and I started to settle in right as I was finishing it. Add a weld positioner to my wish list.



I lost the decal in the process, but the cap still threads in nicely so that's a win.

I went through round 1 with my pitman arm. The puller is still under tension as I type and I'm soaking everything with PB Blaster. I'll revisit that tomorrow.

Once the pitman arm is off and the box is out, it'll be drill/tap time again.
Bray_D is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-25-2017, 11:40 AM   #150 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Member # 665562
Posts: 36
Ran home for lunch and my ORB to barb fitting showed up while I was there. Tossed it in the truck quick to see how everything fit.







I think that'll work.

Gave the pitman arm puller a couple whacks with a hammer, cranked down on the screw, and blasted it with penetrating oil again. I'll put some heat to it if it doesn't come off in a couple minutes with a bfh tonight.
Bray_D is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

** A VERIFICATION EMAIL IS SENT TO THIS ADDRESS TO COMPLETE REGISTRATION!! **

Email Address:
Insurance
Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 10:22 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 ©2011, Crawlability, Inc.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.