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Old 06-29-2018, 09:42 AM   #401 (permalink)
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bit of a lame update as just been working on pluming and wiring and thats nothing great to look at

did build a throttle cable bracket, used a 80-86 ford truck cable and its almost a perfect fit



got my air filter intake done, was temped to go full cone head style but decided against it



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Old 07-03-2018, 08:29 AM   #402 (permalink)
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so busted ass this weekend and got lots done. finished up the wiring, put a kill switch in the dash. went full ghetto and had to butcher and i mean butcher the heater duct to make it fit



no longer need a key to start it, first switch is "key" power, second is fuel/spark then momentary starter switch. wired so that each has to be on for the next one to work



the Fitech controller fits nicely in the cluster



found a good spot for the steering resi and its pretty much a straight shot into the pump now. had to get pretty much all new lines made but was able to run the one to the ram better this time





after fixing a few small coolant leaks and double checking everything was able to get it to fire up and run for the cam brake in. timing was a bit off but it ran and sounded good during brake in. after letting it cool down and double checking everything it all looks good to go. set the timing and now it fires up so nice and easy. really happy with the Fitech so far as was worried it would be a bitch to get to run and brake the motor in at the same time but no issues at all with that. only thing i need to play with it the fan control as didnt seem to work but then did later so no sure about that.

so with the truck running it just need a few small things and should be able to go for a test drive tonight. charged the shocks to the same as before with the small block and its sitting way taller right now. hope it drops down as its full monster truck status right now

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Old 07-09-2018, 09:33 AM   #403 (permalink)
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so finished up the truck thursday night and was having alternator issues as the mustang 3g one i had just whined at anything over idle. tossed another one in and it did the same damn thing. so friday morning with the truck already on the trailer i tossed the old 50amp one on there and ghetto wired up a regulator and was good to go. drove the 3.5 hours to Houston BC, unloaded the truck and started playing around in the field to try and get the efi to learn but just not enough area to really spend the time to do it.

saturday was race day and we all lined up for the obstacle course and i took it some what easy on my first pass as trying to get a feel for the truck. pulled hard and felt great but would lean out and die if i backed off the throttle. did this twice on me while doing my first race but still put in a time close to everyone else in my class. second race came and i went quite a bit harder and truck only died once so felt like i was heading in the right direction. did learn that the suicide knob on my steering wheel was a bad idea as steering gets pretty light and fast at speed and higher rpm. got a little wild and was even up on 2 wheel for a bit but felt smooth and i didnt even know it till i got out of the truck.

sunday morning i fired the truck up and was just running like a bag of ass and would not stay running. would be sitting at idle then just lean out and die. would do the same thing when trying to drive it, fine for a minute then just lean out for no reason and die. after playing with settings and trying my best i just could not get it to stay running. at this time my rear main was leaking real bad so called it and just put it on the trailer. so now i have quite a few issues to deal with. do have a header gasket leak so will start there as thats not helping with my tuning as will be drawing in air ect. looks like the motor will have to come back out to do the rear main. when its out i think ill do bearings as well as the oil pressure was real bad at idle once warm. was good when driving but would drop down to around 10psi at idle. other then the tuning and oil issues the rest of the truck worked great and im happy with all of it

pics to come
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Old 07-09-2018, 10:03 AM   #404 (permalink)
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and pics





truck just looks huge next next to buddys narrowed chevy





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Old 07-09-2018, 10:08 AM   #405 (permalink)
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some potato camera action shots











and buddy in the skinny chevy got a litle crazy and sent it hard on his first run

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Old 07-09-2018, 11:23 AM   #406 (permalink)
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Looks good man, keep us updated on the EFI issues.
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Old 07-09-2018, 05:10 PM   #407 (permalink)
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10psi at hot idle is nothing to be concerned about
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Old 07-10-2018, 06:06 AM   #408 (permalink)
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Man that looks like a blast. Did you double check your IAC steps when the truck was having issues at idle? I reset mine to around 4-6 when hot, now my truck fires up quick and idles great hot or cold. If the truck keeps dying after letting out of full throttle, maybe you can adjust the decel values.

How do you like those 2.5 air shocks? I have 4 2.0 fox shocks just sitting around but I know they are way too small for my shitbox, but I still have dreams of linking it.
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Old 07-10-2018, 06:46 AM   #409 (permalink)
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Plan B, F250 build

Thanks for coming out and running I think this may be our best year for turn out and team fuckshitup put on a great show.


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Old 07-10-2018, 10:17 AM   #410 (permalink)
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Looks good man, keep us updated on the EFI issues.
thanks man and will do

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10psi at hot idle is nothing to be concerned about
well if i have to pull the crank to fix the rear main its not much more to toss some main bearings in it as be nice to have little more oil pressure then that

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Man that looks like a blast. Did you double check your IAC steps when the truck was having issues at idle? I reset mine to around 4-6 when hot, now my truck fires up quick and idles great hot or cold. If the truck keeps dying after letting out of full throttle, maybe you can adjust the decel values.

How do you like those 2.5 air shocks? I have 4 2.0 fox shocks just sitting around but I know they are way too small for my shitbox, but I still have dreams of linking it.
steps where way off and no matter what i did i could not get them right. was playing with the decel stuff and was going in the right direction but would still go lean real fast and die. need to fix the header gasket leak then do a master reset and start over i think.

air shocks are doing what i need them to do, i added extra oil to them to help with the weight. work real well when just crawling along but at speed they feel pretty stiff. for a full size i think 2.0s would be to small

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Thanks for coming out and running I think this may be our best year for turn out and team fuckshitup put on a great show.


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always a blast and you guys did an awesome job on making the back section of the course. i was super pissed sunday morning when i knew i wasnt going to race but still had a blast and will be back next year for sure. team FSU will try and do a little less logging next year
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Old 07-10-2018, 11:48 AM   #411 (permalink)
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Iím thinking rock sections in the new clear cut sections of the track. Might slow some of you guys down.


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Old 07-11-2018, 09:15 AM   #412 (permalink)
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Reading through the Facebook groups, it seems that a lot of the guys running FiTech recommend running the IAC slightly higher than what is recommended by FiTech. FiTech states 7-10 ( I think ) but a lot of the guys seem to run 10-15 up to almost 20. Some of that depends on cams too.
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Old 07-17-2018, 04:20 PM   #413 (permalink)
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looking for some recommendation on an alternator for this thing.

built mounts for a front mount alternator and it was wired for a 94/95 mustang 3G but have put 2 of them in and both whined at anything over idle. in a rush to get the truck drive able i put the old 1G in with a external regulator all ghetto like. the 1G just does not have enough amps to keep the truck going long term as think its maybe 50 amps and with the truck running its holding 12v but not 14 like it should be. the 3g was holding 14.3 no problem.

so do i spend the money on a Powermaster 100 amp 1G one wire bling alternaotor. grab an IDI 100 amp 1G and just do a better job of the wiring and mount for the external regulator? Run a 2g from a mid 90s 460 truck as they are about 95 amps but crappy fire starter wiring. try another 3G from like a 95/96 460 truck and hope it doesnt whine like the mustang one did.
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Old 07-17-2018, 05:15 PM   #414 (permalink)
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You are the only one I know that's not had exceptional results with the 3G. Only difference is, all the ones we've used are from Taurus's.

I'd be looking deeper into how you've got things wired or the condition of all the components.
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Old 07-17-2018, 05:42 PM   #415 (permalink)
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You can't really screw up 3g wiring, you just run the yellow/white wire looped to the charge current stud and the dash light on the green/red.

Can even just leave the green/red wire unhooked and it'll turn on and stay on after you spin it a bit over idle.
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Old 07-17-2018, 09:24 PM   #416 (permalink)
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looking for some recommendation on an alternator for this thing.

built mounts for a front mount alternator and it was wired for a 94/95 mustang 3G but have put 2 of them in and both whined at anything over idle. in a rush to get the truck drive able i put the old 1G in with a external regulator all ghetto like. the 1G just does not have enough amps to keep the truck going long term as think its maybe 50 amps and with the truck running its holding 12v but not 14 like it should be. the 3g was holding 14.3 no problem.

so do i spend the money on a Powermaster 100 amp 1G one wire bling alternaotor. grab an IDI 100 amp 1G and just do a better job of the wiring and mount for the external regulator? Run a 2g from a mid 90s 460 truck as they are about 95 amps but crappy fire starter wiring. try another 3G from like a 95/96 460 truck and hope it doesnt whine like the mustang one did.
Fuck a 1 wire, and double fuck a 2G. I dunno what's up with your two 3Gs, but my Ebay special has been noise free for 5 or 6 years since I put it on. I actually have no idea when I did put it on, that's just a guess. I literally haven't worried about it one time.

I like it so much, the Capri has another Ebay special 3G sitting in the hatch waiting for it. You can't get an alternator with that kinda amperage for a better price. The one in the truck tested at close to 160 amps. (130 amp stock supposedly)
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Old 07-17-2018, 09:30 PM   #417 (permalink)
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Can't fuck this up. (for anyone else reading wondering about the swap)
Name:  20180717_232709.jpg
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Make sure you get the one with 2 holes where I'm pointing. The other is lower amperage.
Name:  20180717_232649.jpg
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Old 07-18-2018, 08:21 AM   #418 (permalink)
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You are the only one I know that's not had exceptional results with the 3G. Only difference is, all the ones we've used are from Taurus's.

I'd be looking deeper into how you've got things wired or the condition of all the components.
might have to try the taurus one as just seems weird that both mustang ones do it. both are new Motorcraft and new wiring and i have an inline 150 amp fuse as well.

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You can't really screw up 3g wiring, you just run the yellow/white wire looped to the charge current stud and the dash light on the green/red.

Can even just leave the green/red wire unhooked and it'll turn on and stay on after you spin it a bit over idle.
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Can't fuck this up. (for anyone else reading wondering about the swap)
Attachment 2888570

Make sure you get the one with 2 holes where I'm pointing. The other is lower amperage.
Attachment 2888572
thats how i had it wired up and it worked just makes a nasty whining noise at anything over idle. shouldnt make a difference if spinning backwards other then the fan as i have the alternator upside down vs how its mounted in the mustangs. also running a v belt not a serp belt and know the first one i put in the pulley was making contact with the case so fixed that on the second one. both the old 1g and the 3g have the same size shaft as measured to make sure it wasnt the pulley spinning or something stupid like that
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Old 07-18-2018, 08:59 AM   #419 (permalink)
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thats how i had it wired up and it worked just makes a nasty whining noise at anything over idle. shouldnt make a difference if spinning backwards other then the fan as i have the alternator upside down vs how its mounted in the mustangs. also running a v belt not a serp belt and know the first one i put in the pulley was making contact with the case so fixed that on the second one. both the old 1g and the 3g have the same size shaft as measured to make sure it wasnt the pulley spinning or something stupid like that
Mine is flipped down and running the truck's original dual V belt pulley. You say mounted upside down... but that shouldn't make a difference as to it spinning correctly. Clockwise is clockwise. Your belt routing looks identical to mine; I just cut the stock 1G bracket so the beefier 3G pivot would fit.
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Old 07-18-2018, 09:19 AM   #420 (permalink)
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I'm running a summit racing 3g 1 wire alernator and it has been great. If you go this route you just need to make sure that the alternator is operating at low rpm's. When I searched for mine I made sure it would operate/charge at lower rpm's since a lot of crawling is spent at idle.
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Old 07-18-2018, 02:06 PM   #421 (permalink)
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I'm running a summit racing 3g 1 wire alernator and it has been great. If you go this route you just need to make sure that the alternator is operating at low rpm's. When I searched for mine I made sure it would operate/charge at lower rpm's since a lot of crawling is spent at idle.
have a buddy that runs a chevy diesel alternator on his bbc as he says it turns on at lower rpm so is great for crawling ect. that why i was thinking if i went with a 1G alternator then id run one off an IDI as can get them in 100 amp and would be good at lower rpm. but for right now im thinking ill try one more 3G but for a different application over the mustang one and see how it works this time
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Old 07-30-2018, 08:40 AM   #422 (permalink)
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not really much to update as still on the trailer waiting its turn in the shop. have washed it and given it a quick look over and found some more leaks that need to be taken care of. did do a master reset on my efi as not sure if me playing with it made it better or worse so figured id just start over. did change out the coolant sensor as the one that came with the kit was reading about 20 degrees off from my autometer one and seems to be a common thing with this unit. so now with the new sensor I was able to tune it a bit better and already seems better and that's just sitting on the trailer. got my iac steps down to 5-8 and idling around 850. so once I fix the leaks ill be able to take it for a drive and just let it learn and then should be ready for a beat down

just incase here is the sensor you need if anyone else runs across this

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Old 08-01-2018, 09:09 PM   #423 (permalink)
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not really much to update as still on the trailer waiting its turn in the shop. have washed it and given it a quick look over and found some more leaks that need to be taken care of. did do a master reset on my efi as not sure if me playing with it made it better or worse so figured id just start over. did change out the coolant sensor as the one that came with the kit was reading about 20 degrees off from my autometer one and seems to be a common thing with this unit. so now with the new sensor I was able to tune it a bit better and already seems better and that's just sitting on the trailer. got my iac steps down to 5-8 and idling around 850. so once I fix the leaks ill be able to take it for a drive and just let it learn and then should be ready for a beat down

just incase here is the sensor you need if anyone else runs across this

That's one way to fix a Ford, put Chevy parts on it

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Old 08-01-2018, 10:35 PM   #424 (permalink)
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pretty much all the sensors on the fitech are common chevy ones other then the o2 as is a vw sensor.
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Old 08-07-2018, 10:08 AM   #425 (permalink)
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got the truck back in the shop, dropped the oil pan and did the rear main seal and fingers crossed it doesn't leak again. also did new header gaskets and flange gaskets, already sound better and efi seems way happier with out the leaks. wrapped the exhaust some more till past the trans as thinking was getting some extra trans heat from the exhaust.

pulled the bench seat out, like it but after Houston I knew it had to go as was sliding around and hit my head a few times. plan on doing another race in a months time so want to stay in the seat this time. did have to fix a small crack in the floor so I could bolt my seats in. did have to cut 2 brackets off and reweld them as the seat bases I have are meant for ext cab and the floor pan is different



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