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Old 04-03-2017, 11:12 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Plan B, F250 build

not sure what to really call this yet but plan b seems fitting for the moment

with knowing how long its going to build my buggy right the first time I knew I wouldn't be wheeling this year and it was starting to get to me. sure its fun to go out and ride bitch but its never the same so been looking for a cheap ride to hold me over. found this gem as price was right and it drove on the trailer no problem

1993 F250 with a 351 and c6. thing is beat and needs some love but price was right as motor sounds good and that's all im really after. with this build I know I want a full cab with glass and doors as want to winter wheel it. will ditch the box and cut the frame right down get a sub 120 wheel base. 3link front with air shocks and rear will be leaf sprung, lots of cutting and my 44s then party time.

will be budget rig and hope for a fast build as want to wheel this this summer and winter as I build the buggy so I can take my time and build it right

now pics



and hope to look something like this when im done

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Last edited by snowracer; 02-22-2018 at 09:56 AM.
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Old 04-03-2017, 11:15 AM   #2 (permalink)
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got the truck in the shop, box off and frame striped today

found this and some other ghetto fixes on the truck



rear bumper with bumpers that was welded to the frame













this week I plan on getting the rear diff striped of all the crap and ready to go back in, also make up my wind on what I want for wheel base so can cut the frame down
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Old 04-04-2017, 10:24 PM   #3 (permalink)
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got the rear diff stripped tonight



also cut the frame down, took 20 inches out. wasn't able to do a Z cut this time but once fully welded and with a small fish plate I don't see it being an issue









frame scrap and my NV271 tcase I plan on swapping in as well

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Old 04-05-2017, 02:07 AM   #4 (permalink)
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What is that going to put your wheelbase at?
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Old 04-05-2017, 08:34 AM   #5 (permalink)
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What is that going to put your wheelbase at?
right now it will put it at 113 but when i link the front ill move front diff forward so thinking 115-117
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Old 04-05-2017, 09:54 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Old 04-05-2017, 10:23 AM   #7 (permalink)
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right now it will put it at 113 but when i link the front ill move front diff forward so thinking 115-117
wise choice, but then I'm biased....
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Old 04-05-2017, 10:27 AM   #8 (permalink)
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wise choice, but then I'm biased....
its going to be all new to me as all my old rigs where 130 plus wheel base plus this will be my first gas and auto wheeling rig
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Old 04-05-2017, 11:40 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Looking forward to watching this.

What're your plans for the leaf rear? Simple shackle flip and traction bar?
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Old 04-05-2017, 11:49 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Looking forward to watching this.

What're your plans for the leaf rear? Simple shackle flip and traction bar?
was thinking of just putting them under the frame but worried will give me to much lift. so yes plan is just do a shackle flip in the back with stock brackets and i have a set of belltech shackles from when i lowered my F150. have a traction bar left over from the truggy build so can use it if its needed
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Old 04-05-2017, 10:03 PM   #11 (permalink)
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You never mentioned which front axle? I assume dana 60,but what year? A super dirty axle would be tits for strength and cheap (at least around me )
Looks good so far, i think the frame is going to be fine with fish plates. You cutting anything out of the rear to help departure angle?
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Old 04-05-2017, 10:14 PM   #12 (permalink)
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You never mentioned which front axle? I assume dana 60,but what year? A super dirty axle would be tits for strength and cheap (at least around me )
Looks good so far, i think the frame is going to be fine with fish plates. You cutting anything out of the rear to help departure angle?
going to use my 79 HP60 with 4.10 and chromos with high steer and full hydro.

was looking at the back of the frame tonight an only think i can cut a few inches off as was thinking of just putting the rear tank back in the stock spot. makes life easy for mounting it and doesnt hang down but wont let me cut the frame flush with the rear leaf hangers.
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Old 04-06-2017, 02:05 AM   #13 (permalink)
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makes me wish I had kept my 4x4 and just removed the damaged body.. plus replacing the parts of the engine that drowned..
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Old 04-06-2017, 03:54 AM   #14 (permalink)
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What are you doing for a bed?
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Old 04-06-2017, 08:21 AM   #15 (permalink)
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What are you doing for a bed?
Read first post asshat. Shows picture of what he wants.
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Old 04-06-2017, 08:37 AM   #16 (permalink)
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What are you doing for a bed?
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Read first post asshat. Shows picture of what he wants.
play nice boys

plan will be a very simple deck thats only as wide as the frame, just need it to hold action packers with tools and recovery gear and a cooler.
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Old 04-06-2017, 08:38 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Read first post asshat. Shows picture of what he wants.
I saw the picture.

Reading on the other hand...not my strong suit.
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Old 04-06-2017, 01:13 PM   #18 (permalink)
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going to use my 79 HP60 with 4.10 and chromos with high steer and full hydro.

was looking at the back of the frame tonight an only think i can cut a few inches off as was thinking of just putting the rear tank back in the stock spot. makes life easy for mounting it and doesnt hang down but wont let me cut the frame flush with the rear leaf hangers.
Well that axle will do the trick.
Good plan on the stock mounted tank in the rear, that would trump cutting the rear out just for ease of install and building it quickly. Looking forward to the finished product.
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Old 04-06-2017, 10:24 PM   #19 (permalink)
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tonight was just one of them nights where nothing worked in my favor and got nothing really done. was short some hardware for putting the spring hangers back on, found a hole in the rear fuel tank so have to buy a new one, and couldn't get the left springs bushings out. so will try again tomorrow and hope for some better luck.

pic of the fish plate and front spring hanger on even if missing 2 bolts per side



rear is new stock hangers just flipped and using some belltech shackles I had from when I lowered my F150. can also see how much frame is past the hanger and rear crossmember so not much to gain from cutting it off



got one spring pack torn down and painted but will need to replace the bushings

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Last edited by snowracer; 02-08-2018 at 11:49 AM.
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Old 04-06-2017, 11:11 PM   #20 (permalink)
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I would have moved the springs under the frame for simplicity and added flex. Stability can be argued here...yes. Sure it will be fine though.
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Old 04-07-2017, 05:53 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Seems pretty rusty for a west coast rig.
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Old 04-07-2017, 05:55 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Just a thought but you might want to beef up those shackles, esp if you are going to use the lowest hole. My buddy used them and the are all folded up and bent. they can't be more than 1/8" or MAYBE 3/16" tops. ....
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Old 04-07-2017, 06:31 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Just a thought but you might want to beef up those shackles, esp if you are going to use the lowest hole. My buddy used them and the are all folded up and bent. they can't be more than 1/8" or MAYBE 3/16" tops. ....
This^

At least weld a plate between the two sides.
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Old 04-07-2017, 07:58 AM   #24 (permalink)
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My buddy has a similar shackle on his chevy and definitely beef them up. His rear can easily move 1.5" laterally.
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Old 04-07-2017, 08:44 AM   #25 (permalink)
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was thinking of just putting them under the frame but worried will give me to much lift. so yes plan is just do a shackle flip in the back with stock brackets and i have a set of belltech shackles from when i lowered my F150. have a traction bar left over from the truggy build so can use it if its needed
I see you already mounted your hangers but, just a thought, if you did mount the springs under the frame, ditch the shackle and go with a slider system to keep it low. Or will it interfere with the fuel tank location?
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