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Old 06-26-2017, 08:33 PM   #26 (permalink)
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I've got Uncle Bob's email addy if you need it... I am sure he would be happy to know you have his rig...
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Old 06-26-2017, 09:02 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Love early broncos and own a 75 and 77. Hate to burst any bubbles, but don't see how the bronco you just received and the race bronco in the pictures can possibly be the same vehicle? The dash in the race vehicle would have been cut to pieces for gauges, the cage to pass through and so on.
As earlier poster stated, highly unlikely anyone would take a used up racer and attempt to restore it to factory and the pictures you've posted support the likelyhood that they aren't the same vehicle.

So what, have fun restoring it and have even more fun using it!
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Old 06-26-2017, 10:06 PM   #28 (permalink)
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I've got Uncle Bob's email addy if you need it... I am sure he would be happy to know you have his rig...
He knows.

Race Bronco in Galpin Ford's Museum (link courtesy of TZ):

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Old 06-27-2017, 07:02 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Love early broncos and own a 75 and 77. Hate to burst any bubbles, but don't see how the bronco you just received and the race bronco in the pictures can possibly be the same vehicle? The dash in the race vehicle would have been cut to pieces for gauges, the cage to pass through and so on.
As earlier poster stated, highly unlikely anyone would take a used up racer and attempt to restore it to factory and the pictures you've posted support the likelyhood that they aren't the same vehicle.

So what, have fun restoring it and have even more fun using it!
I agree somewhat with what you say, but you can see there are variances in the pics and of the bronco in the museum as well- so it didn't seem there was a defacto race trim.

The big thing is that the history of the truck is there, and we know who had it/where it was/ etc.etc.
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Old 06-27-2017, 06:12 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Do you have any pics of it in chase trim? Was it painted like the racers?

Being a chase truck very few people would know the exact details so adding a few modern concessions to make it a better driver should be no big deal as long as the fit the time period, disc brakes, power steering and even a C-4 auto trans would not be out of line, EFI would be as well as things like an aluminum radiator.

Race cars evolve over time, it would make sense that the chase truck would have as well so IMHO as long as any changes you make are period correct then it's OK.
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Old 06-28-2017, 09:30 AM   #31 (permalink)
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My thoughts exactly, it is the nature of race vehicles that they evolve over time. Can't easily compare any one particular picture with the current vehicle and say this is or isn't the vehicle. It takes more sleuthing than that. First person knowledge is extremely helpful in determining pedigree. Chase rigs & to some degree pre-runners are tools, doubt they ever get much documentation.
As was posted on the Bfix list:
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Originally Posted by Uncle Bob
My race Bronco and the one that used KC lites for the first time in a race sits in the Galpin Ford Museum in Sepulveda, Ca. The only other Chrome Yellow Bronco I owned was a 68 that was used for pre running for a short time. It was not a race car when I had it.
Sounds to me like you can do whatever you want with it.
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Old 06-29-2017, 04:07 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Tom, you keep this up and your post count will rise...

Glad to see you are still around.
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Old 06-29-2017, 08:29 PM   #33 (permalink)
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My bad, thought OP was saying bronco find was a retired racer. See now it was a chase rig for the racer, and that makes far better sense. Sorry if confused any.
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Old 07-16-2017, 08:27 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Pulled the engine harness and picked it up for the first time to check under it's skirt.
She's got a little work needed underneath. Nothing serious, really.

It's got a Dana 30
Talked to my pops more and we came to conclusion we're going to modernize it.
As much as I want to keep it "old skool", the truck will be sucky to drive as it is.

Planned mods:
Dana 44 w/ discs.
Currently looking for a D44 if you know anyone selling one.
Gear change. Unsure what it's got in it now. Really, I'm thinking with the 5 speed trans, 32 or 33" tires and 4.11's or 4.56's will make this useful up to about 75mph.
According to Grim's gear calculator, 70mph in 5th will be a respectable 2373 RPM, with plenty of gear choices below that for hills and typical driving.


9" rear discs. Parking brake needs to be integrated. Caddy calipers I'm assuming I'll be using.

NV3550 5 speed swap. Need the whole shibang to swap over.


Power steering. Was looking into a 4 turn box.


Power brakes
Up in the air if a booster with the turn-out box is going to be used, or hydro boost from what I'm reading works well from an F250SD.


Compliant suspension.
We're gonna keep the dual shocks and coils, but put some progressive springs like some Wild Horses, and some decent valved shocks, painted black.
Remove the airbags, not needed.

Seats- thinking Corbeau with harnesses that can be run with just lap belts.
The driver's seat is broken, so seats are on the list anyways.

Cage- pull the bolt in/yuck welded cage and get something in it that follows the typical lines it currently has, but will be useful in an event it's needed. Possibly tie into frame.

Electric wipers (doesn't have anything right now)




Pops' want's it to be a driver.
Ok, we'll make it a driver.
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Old 07-17-2017, 05:26 AM   #35 (permalink)
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Old 07-17-2017, 08:47 AM   #36 (permalink)
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Currently looking for a D44 if you know anyone selling one.
Whats your location bud? I've got one but I'm probably too far east

EDIT: just remembered Texass shipping probably wouldn't be worth it
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Old 07-17-2017, 07:29 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Halogrinder View Post
Pulled the engine harness and picked it up for the first time to check under it's skirt.
She's got a little work needed underneath. Nothing serious, really.

It's got a Dana 30
Talked to my pops more and we came to conclusion we're going to modernize it.
As much as I want to keep it "old skool", the truck will be sucky to drive as it is.

Planned mods:
Dana 44 w/ discs.
Currently looking for a D44 if you know anyone selling one.
Gear change. Unsure what it's got in it now. Really, I'm thinking with the 5 speed trans, 32 or 33" tires and 4.11's or 4.56's will make this useful up to about 75mph.
According to Grim's gear calculator, 70mph in 5th will be a respectable 2373 RPM, with plenty of gear choices below that for hills and typical driving.


9" rear discs. Parking brake needs to be integrated. Caddy calipers I'm assuming I'll be using.

NV3550 5 speed swap. Need the whole shibang to swap over.


Power steering. Was looking into a 4 turn box.


Power brakes
Up in the air if a booster with the turn-out box is going to be used, or hydro boost from what I'm reading works well from an F250SD.


Compliant suspension.
We're gonna keep the dual shocks and coils, but put some progressive springs like some Wild Horses, and some decent valved shocks, painted black.
Remove the airbags, not needed.

Seats- thinking Corbeau with harnesses that can be run with just lap belts.
The driver's seat is broken, so seats are on the list anyways.

Cage- pull the bolt in/yuck welded cage and get something in it that follows the typical lines it currently has, but will be useful in an event it's needed. Possibly tie into frame.

Electric wipers (doesn't have anything right now)




Pops' want's it to be a driver.
Ok, we'll make it a driver.
Cut down a HP Dana 44 and Caddy calipers bring the suck find a way to do a Explorer rear disc swap and you'll be a lot happier.
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Old 07-18-2017, 07:45 AM   #38 (permalink)
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Whats your location bud? I've got one but I'm probably too far east

EDIT: just remembered Texass shipping probably wouldn't be worth it
I have cheap freight. Strap to a pallet, gimmie zip and residential/commerical, and if lift gate needed.

OR, if you can drop at local hub for me
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Old 07-18-2017, 12:08 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Cut down a HP Dana 44.....
This! Just take 6" off the passenger side tube. All the benefits of a HP differential with bigger u-joints and disc brakes.
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Old 07-18-2017, 12:27 PM   #40 (permalink)
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4.11 on a 33, or 4.56 on a 35 will get you at a great cruising power. I ran that setup in my ranger with an exhausted 4L and I would only have to drop to 3rd on jinormous hills.

Great to see you're making it a driver.

I support the caddi calipers. I have them on the back of my explorer. only problem I ever had with them was the little rubber/plastic insert in the middle of the piston leaked. swapped it out with the lifetime warranty and all good.

Wild Horse progressive springs are what I have on my explorer as well. They ride awesome. seriously. Mine are the 5.5" lift springs, so a little taller than you are wanting, but man, they ride awesome.

Cutting down the HP44 would be the way to go, but finding one with weld on wedges for a price that is fair is tough. If you have the ability to get the whole axle from posford, shipping would likely be worth it.

excited to see how this pans out. And of course, Gotta have that yellow hood
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An old Explorer with a lot of dents
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Old 07-18-2017, 12:28 PM   #41 (permalink)
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4.11 on a 33, or 4.56 on a 35 will get you at a great cruising power. I ran that setup in my ranger with an exhausted 4L and I would only have to drop to 3rd on jinormous hills.

Great to see you're making it a driver.

I support the caddi calipers. I have them on the back of my explorer. only problem I ever had with them was the little rubber/plastic insert in the middle of the piston leaked. swapped it out with the lifetime warranty and all good.

Wild Horse progressive springs are what I have on my explorer as well. They ride awesome. seriously. Mine are the 5.5" lift springs, so a little taller than you are wanting, but man, they ride awesome.

Cutting down the HP44 would be the way to go, but finding one with weld on wedges for a price that is fair is tough. If you have the ability to get the whole axle from posford, shipping would likely be worth it.

excited to see how this pans out. And of course, Gotta have that yellow hood
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An old Explorer with a lot of dents
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Old 07-18-2017, 01:16 PM   #42 (permalink)
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I have cheap freight. Strap to a pallet, gimmie zip and residential/commerical, and if lift gate needed.

OR, if you can drop at local hub for me
Its in pieces and has drums, possibly missing shit, I'll verify it is a 44, never even looked at it too hard. Came with some other shit.

Narrowing a 44 it tit though, did it for my Ranger. Not even a weld on wedge axle, grind the weld at the cast wedge, pull it apart with a tractor, cut tube, hammer it on, check with tape measure, burn it in. 2 hours tops.
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Old 07-18-2017, 01:41 PM   #43 (permalink)
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Narrowing a 44 it tit though, did it for my Ranger. Not even a weld on wedge axle, grind the weld at the cast wedge, pull it apart with a tractor, cut tube, hammer it on, check with tape measure, burn it in. 2 hours tops.
I was referring to lining the pumpkin up correctly on the driver side. I thought the location of the pumpkin on the driver side of the f150/bronco axle is further from the inner C than the weld on wedge axle or the EB 44?
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Old 07-18-2017, 02:03 PM   #44 (permalink)
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I was referring to lining the pumpkin up correctly on the driver side. I thought the location of the pumpkin on the driver side of the f150/bronco axle is further from the inner C than the weld on wedge axle or the EB 44?
Good thinking. I'll have to throw a tape measure on both
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Old 07-18-2017, 07:59 PM   #45 (permalink)
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A 33" tire on a dana 30 wouldn't scare me too much if it was pretty much a street cruiser. The GM brake conversion will work on a 30 or a drum brake bronco 44, you could do it now on the 30 and look for a 44 later.

5 speed sounds good

4 turn box is good, avoid the 6 turn although they can be rebuilt into a 4 or 3 turn box, the Delphi box that bronco graveyard and I'm sure others sell might be a good choice, it is almost stock in appearance but is all new parts instead of old worn out bits.

Stock style booster would be fine with 33-35" tires, beyond that I would go with the hydro boost.


I've go deavers in the front of mine, I think they are a straight rate rather then progressive, they are soft, I've got a bilstein 255/70 shock and it's undervalved, I would like to try a 360/80 or a pair of 170/60.

A set of the 10-11 leaf rear springs and a properly valved shock will help the rear out a bunch as well.

One of the "bolt on in place of a carb and peel out" EFI setups might hide under the aircleaner well enough and would make it drive real nice if it's going to really see a good amount of use.
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Old 07-18-2017, 08:11 PM   #46 (permalink)
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A 33" tire on a dana 30 wouldn't scare me too much if it was pretty much a street cruiser. The GM brake conversion will work on a 30 or a drum brake bronco 44, you could do it now on the 30 and look for a 44 later.

5 speed sounds good

4 turn box is good, avoid the 6 turn although they can be rebuilt into a 4 or 3 turn box, the Delphi box that bronco graveyard and I'm sure others sell might be a good choice, it is almost stock in appearance but is all new parts instead of old worn out bits.

Stock style booster would be fine with 33-35" tires, beyond that I would go with the hydro boost.


I've go deavers in the front of mine, I think they are a straight rate rather then progressive, they are soft, I've got a bilstein 255/70 shock and it's undervalved, I would like to try a 360/80 or a pair of 170/60.

A set of the 10-11 leaf rear springs and a properly valved shock will help the rear out a bunch as well.

One of the "bolt on in place of a carb and peel out" EFI setups might hide under the aircleaner well enough and would make it drive real nice if it's going to really see a good amount of use.

I'm just looking at not investing money into the 30. If I'm going to go through it and replace the bearings/rebuild it- might as well be a 44.

Iv'e read a F250 turned 90* HB is supposed to be the bee's knees?


I had a set of wildhorses springs on my f1fitty, and while it was too heavy for my truck, i think will work nice with this. I need to find a set of shocks that will compliment them in dual form, as well.

I have a 650 double pumper that when the engine is tuned on the dyno will be gone through by Davince carbs. Don't worry, she'll run like fuel injection, i promise
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Old 07-21-2017, 05:31 PM   #47 (permalink)
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The black hood was to eliminate glare from those overhead lights....
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Old 07-25-2017, 06:15 PM   #48 (permalink)
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so- more talk. Fuel injection.


Thottle body injection on the dual plane intake?
MPFI on an aftermarket intake manifold?

OR

LSx swap?

OR

something Ford like a coyote engine?

We're just examining our options here. I live at 40 feet in Houston.
Pops lives at 1500, and a quick jaunt to Tahoe would be at 5-6K feet.
A run to Sacramento and he's back at my level.


Coyote would be RAAAAAAAD.
Need to find a trans and related crap to make the Tcase still work.

Now we're looking at Resto-mod style.
Lemme know your thoughts
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Old 07-25-2017, 06:34 PM   #49 (permalink)
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BC Broncos has all the stuff for Coyote swaps

I think one of the throttle body EFIs like FiTech, MSD, Holly etc sell would be the simplest solution.

My bronco has a 92ish 5.0 mustang motor with the factory EFI, it was about the only choice when I did it over 20 years ago, not a bad choice but it doesn't have the adjustability of the newer systems.
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Old 07-25-2017, 06:36 PM   #50 (permalink)
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For ease, I'd do a self learning throttle body kit. Will look OG and deliver good performance.

A coyote would be rad, but iirc it's a tight fit, and personally I wouldn't hack up pops EB.

A ls would be awesome, but not for a cool EB.
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