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Old 09-08-2017, 10:19 AM   #1 (permalink)
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TTB

Trying to find info on ttb shit.. seems like every link I follow is dead and then any good links have dead pics because of Photobucket bullshit..

So I totaled my supercharged mid travel 4runner and have been toying with the idea of starting on a 93-97 ranger drop a 5.0 in and do some sort of long travel/expo build..
I've never messed with ttb other then my old bronco and it seemed pretty strong. I plan on having 35-37s and am afraid of the 35 being a problem child for me. I have read the whole 44/35 hybrid stuff but can't seem to find a ton of good stuff on why not swap a full 44? Would a cutnturned 44/35 be just as strong and less work to setup then putting the 44 in?
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Old 09-08-2017, 10:27 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Ok, so ya want a 5.0, run 37s and this to be an expo…Forget a Ranger, just do an F150 or FSB. you can get them with a 5.0 and they already come with a 44 TTB. You will also gain some space for all the expo stuff you'll be taking. If you shop around, you'll end up money ahead, that you can invest back into the ride

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Old 09-08-2017, 10:51 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I plan on having 35-37s and am afraid of the 35 being a problem child for me. I have read the whole 44/35 hybrid stuff but can't seem to find a ton of good stuff on why not swap a full 44? Would a cutnturned 44/35 be just as strong and less work to setup then putting the 44 in?
The weak link in both the 35 and the 44 are the axleshaft u-joints. They are the same size and will let go before the 35 ring/pinion. The D35 3rd member is actually pretty strong.

2 reasons to run the 35 over the 44 off the top of my head:

#1: Up travel will be less with the 44 due to the diff being placed further outboard and hitting the framerail.

#2: Unsprung weight. The D35 aluminum diff is much lighter than the cast iron 44.

A third plus of the D35 is that the tie rods mount on top of the knuckles vs the 44 below.
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Old 09-08-2017, 11:25 AM   #4 (permalink)
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#2: Unsprung weight. The D35 aluminum diff is much lighter than the cast iron
That aluminum diff housing, while a weight savings, is a weak link, a friend of mine broke 3 of them with a 4.0/5 speed and 35's before he sas'd his 94.
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Old 09-08-2017, 11:32 AM   #5 (permalink)
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The weak link in both the 35 and the 44 are the axleshaft u-joints. They are the same size and will let go before the 35 ring/pinion. The D35 3rd member is actually pretty strong.



2 reasons to run the 35 over the 44 off the top of my head:



#1: Up travel will be less with the 44 due to the diff being placed further outboard and hitting the framerail.



#2: Unsprung weight. The D35 aluminum diff is much lighter than the cast iron 44.



A third plus of the D35 is that the tie rods mount on top of the knuckles vs the 44 below.


Any opinions on the dana 50 that was placed on the f250s in 92-97?


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Old 09-08-2017, 11:42 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Research Dana 44/50 TTB Hybrid. If you're gonna build it, build it strong. Basically a 44 with 50 knuckles and outers.

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Old 09-08-2017, 12:47 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Any opinions on the dana 50 that was placed on the f250s in 92-97?
Downfall is leaf springs. Still 30-spline. Otherwise its beefier throughout. Used since '80 I believe... mostly F250 supercabs, and pre-monobeam F350. Brakes improved for '95.
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Old 09-08-2017, 01:17 PM   #8 (permalink)
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That aluminum diff housing, while a weight savings, is a weak link, a friend of mine broke 3 of them with a 4.0/5 speed and 35's before he sas'd his 94.
I ran one open and one with an ARB for years and broke a handful u joints and hubs but never hurt the housing or R&P. Did he break them via torque or contact with rocks?
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Old 09-08-2017, 01:18 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Ok, so ya want a 5.0, run 37s and this to be an expo…Forget a Ranger, just do an F150 or FSB. you can get them with a 5.0 and they already come with a 44 TTB. You will also gain some space for all the expo stuff you'll be taking. If you shop around, you'll end up money ahead, that you can invest back into the ride

Ed
Most places I go and want to go are narrow and a full-size won't cut it.. a 5.0 is easy to put in but I might like the 3.0 or 4.0 never really had one. I had a fsb and loved it but again to big body wise to go places without body damage that's why I went to Toyotas.. only issue is up here they have a premium price for used shit and I'm done paying it lol..

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The weak link in both the 35 and the 44 are the axleshaft u-joints. They are the same size and will let go before the 35 ring/pinion. The D35 3rd member is actually pretty strong.

2 reasons to run the 35 over the 44 off the top of my head:

#1: Up travel will be less with the 44 due to the diff being placed further outboard and hitting the framerail.

#2: Unsprung weight. The D35 aluminum diff is much lighter than the cast iron 44.

A third plus of the D35 is that the tie rods mount on top of the knuckles vs the 44 below.
Awesome info thanks that's what I was curious about was the strength benefit in the diff if they are about equal and ujoints break first then I don't see any benefit from a 44.. as I can widen the track of the 35..

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Research Dana 44/50 TTB Hybrid. If you're gonna build it, build it strong. Basically a 44 with 50 knuckles and outers.

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I saw a few of those.. just not sure if the knuckles are even worth messing with. Seems like most stuff I see is Dana 35 spindles are crap because bearing spread so people swap to 44. If I was shooting for strength I would find a 60 or grab one of the spider 9 I have for my buggy waiting for funds to free up and finish building..
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Old 09-08-2017, 01:57 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjlogan88 View Post
I ran one open and one with an ARB for years and broke a handful u joints and hubs but never hurt the housing or R&P. Did he break them via torque or contact with rocks?
Torque, not many rocks here to contact, and he isn't an overly hardcore wheeler. The one I helped him change was cracked across the top of the pinion snout from the outer race area into the main housing area along the length of the pinion at a diagonal. He claimed a previous one the entire pinion snout had removed itself but I never saw that one.
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Old 09-08-2017, 02:48 PM   #11 (permalink)
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n but I might like the 3.0 or 4.0 never really had one.



You won't.


Ok, the 4.0 is livable on a rig with small tires but it's still stupid anemic by my standards. I have a 3.0 in a Ranger right now, and have borrowed a buddy's many times and even in 2WD flavor they are slow as hell.

5.0 4x4 Explorer with no title off of Craigslist is your best bet for a bang for your buck, bolt in powertrain. That was the plan on mine till I decided I don't have the time for that project.
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Old 09-08-2017, 03:36 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Most places I go and want to go are narrow and a full-size won't cut it.. a 5.0 is easy to put in but I might like the 3.0 or 4.0 never really had one. I had a fsb and loved it but again to big body wise to go places without body damage that's why I went to Toyotas.. only issue is up here they have a premium price for used shit and I'm done paying it lol..


Awesome info thanks that's what I was curious about was the strength benefit in the diff if they are about equal and ujoints break first then I don't see any benefit from a 44.. as I can widen the track of the 35..


I saw a few of those.. just not sure if the knuckles are even worth messing with. Seems like most stuff I see is Dana 35 spindles are crap because bearing spread so people swap to 44. If I was shooting for strength I would find a 60 or grab one of the spider 9 I have for my buggy waiting for funds to free up and finish building..
Good luck running 37's on a D35.

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Old 09-08-2017, 03:57 PM   #13 (permalink)
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You won't.


Ok, the 4.0 is livable on a rig with small tires but it's still stupid anemic by my standards. I have a 3.0 in a Ranger right now, and have borrowed a buddy's many times and even in 2WD flavor they are slow as hell.

5.0 4x4 Explorer with no title off of Craigslist is your best bet for a bang for your buck, bolt in powertrain. That was the plan on mine till I decided I don't have the time for that project.
Actually come to think of it I think a buddy of mine just got done doing tough trucks this year with a no title 5.0 x.. might be able to snag it off him

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Good luck running 37's on a D35.

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Yeah people said the same about running 4ds on yota axles also.. the 4wd will only be used when needed.
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Old 09-08-2017, 04:45 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Actually come to think of it I think a buddy of mine just got done doing tough trucks this year with a no title 5.0 x.. might be able to snag it off him



Yeah people said the same about running 4ds on yota axles also.. the 4wd will only be used when needed.
If you baby the fun pedal, you can survive with 37's. You put any real torque to it, it's going to break. What axle did you have in your Toyota?

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Old 09-08-2017, 06:20 PM   #15 (permalink)
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If you baby the fun pedal, you can survive with 37's. You put any real torque to it, it's going to break. What axle did you have in your Toyota?

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I definitely live off the limiter 😬 but like I said I'm not set on 37s I was thinking 35s.. and just Toyota 8" axles. Bobby long's in the front stock rear shafts.. buddy still runs 42s on his and just bends housings
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Old 09-08-2017, 08:30 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I definitely live off the limiter but like I said I'm not set on 37s I was thinking 35s.. and just Toyota 8" axles. Bobby long's in the front stock rear shafts.. buddy still runs 42s on his and just bends housings
I'd play it safe and do 35's on a 44, at least it'll last for a really long time. Just my .02.

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Old 09-08-2017, 08:35 PM   #17 (permalink)
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You could just go with a 50 and get them cut and turned/lengthened. Crawltunes is doing that on their Centurion prerunner build. They also went 5" over and plated though, hehe

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Old 09-11-2017, 05:04 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Call up Autofab. Explain the situation. Give them your credit card number. It will still be cheaper than a Toyota.

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That aluminum diff housing, while a weight savings, is a weak link, a friend of mine broke 3 of them with a 4.0/5 speed and 35's before he sas'd his 94.


Only the Dana 28 had an aluminum housing.
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Old 09-11-2017, 05:45 PM   #19 (permalink)
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The weak link in both the 35 and the 44 are the axleshaft u-joints. They are the same size and will let go before the 35 ring/pinion. The D35 3rd member is actually pretty strong.

2 reasons to run the 35 over the 44 off the top of my head:

#1: Up travel will be less with the 44 due to the diff being placed further outboard and hitting the framerail.

#2: Unsprung weight. The D35 aluminum diff is much lighter than the cast iron 44.

A third plus of the D35 is that the tie rods mount on top of the knuckles vs the 44 below.
Another benefit of the Dana 35 is that if you put Dana 44 outers on it, the smallest diameter point on the axle shafts will be larger than where the stock inner Dana 44 axle shafts neck down to go into the carrier.

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Torque, not many rocks here to contact, and he isn't an overly hardcore wheeler. The one I helped him change was cracked across the top of the pinion snout from the outer race area into the main housing area along the length of the pinion at a diagonal. He claimed a previous one the entire pinion snout had removed itself but I never saw that one.
I am just running the original 2.8L in my Bronco II, rebuilt .030 over with a 2150 carb and Duraspark ignition, but I have not been able to break anything on my Dana 35 with 5.13s and a locker in the front on 35s. I use my Bronco II in the rocks and have had it bound up so bad I couldn't move numerous times, and nothing has broken. Granted, that the 2.8L was rated at 150 ftlbs when new, and I am only sporting a crawl ratio of 50:1 on 35s, but I think it is far from fragile. I would rate the weaklinks of a stock Dana 35 as follows:

1. Auto Hubs
2. Stub shafts
3. U-Joints

I have never heard of anyone blowing up the housing before. I am not calling you a liar, but I have a hard time believing the housing would fail before the components I have listed above.

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Only the Dana 28 had an aluminum housing.
That is incorrect. The Dana 35 most certainly has an aluminum third member. Mine is out of a '94 Explorer if it matters to you.
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Old 09-11-2017, 06:35 PM   #20 (permalink)
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That is incorrect. The Dana 35 most certainly has an aluminum third member. Mine is out of a '94 Explorer if it matters to you.
Are you sure you D35 isn't a D28 in a D35 case? They did that 93-97.
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Old 09-11-2017, 07:57 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Are you sure you D35 isn't a D28 in a D35 case? They did that 93-97.
I am positive, I am the one who pulled it out of the Explorer and geared and locked it Explorers never came with the hybrid axles, and I am pretty sure a Dana 35 gear set and carrier wouldn't work in a Dana 28.
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Old 09-12-2017, 08:15 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Both my D35s were aluminum cases.

I ran 39.5s on a D35 with spicer ujoints, tack welded caps, 4.88s, and the anemic 2.9 without breaking anything. But it was a powerlines rig, so 90% mud.

If I were to do TTB again I'd limit it to 35s, 44 knuckles, cut and turned beams stock width, and cut fenders or fiberglass to keep it low.
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Old 09-12-2017, 08:19 AM   #23 (permalink)
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TTB works great for cars that want to go fast in the desert and jump.
Anything outside of that, put a solid axle in it.
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Old 09-12-2017, 09:56 AM   #24 (permalink)
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TTB works great for cars that want to go fast in the desert and jump.
Anything outside of that, put a solid axle in it.
That's not true. They have decent flex, but you'll need a 4" lift (like any truck) to achieve that. A cut & turn/beam lengthening only make those numbers better. @welndmn, have you ever had a vehicle with a TTB?


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Old 09-12-2017, 12:47 PM   #25 (permalink)
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That's not true. They have decent flex, but you'll need a 4" lift (like any truck) to achieve that. A cut & turn/beam lengthening only make those numbers better. @welndmn, have you ever had a vehicle with a TTB?


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Yup, I race a FSB.
I'm very aware of the complex issues it takes to get a TTB to work correctly.
Anything that does not jump, I'd pick a solid axle again and again.
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