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Old 11-04-2019, 05:56 PM   #101 (permalink)
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Super sweet truck and build

Why not use a 35x12.5 tire (or close?) on a 16 or 17" steel wheel? Easier to build around, faster acceleration, better braking and steering, and looks so much more proportional on the old iron. No need to cut the front fenders. On, and cheaper with more options to choose from.

Just curious.

If this is just going to be a street/dirt road truck.
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Old 11-05-2019, 10:24 AM   #102 (permalink)
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Super sweet truck and build

Why not use a 35x12.5 tire (or close?) on a 16 or 17" steel wheel? Easier to build around, faster acceleration, better braking and steering, and looks so much more proportional on the old iron. No need to cut the front fenders. On, and cheaper with more options to choose from.

Just curious.

If this is just going to be a street/dirt road truck.
Thanks. Good question. I shall attempt to explain my questionable reasoning;
1) I'm a redneck/motorhead, so the bigger the tires the better. More power, loud exhaust, blasting stereo.
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Originally Posted by rattle snake View Post
... build something between big gay truck and a mall crawler...
2) This is Pirate
3) I'm not that old yet
4) My other truck is on 37s. Can't go smaller.
5) If I'm going to waste excessive time and money on an old truck, it needs to be cool and unique.
6) Large marsh mellow tires ride nice off road
7) 37s were the new 35s last decade and now 40s are the new 37s. Disco Jeeps on 40s are common in my area, driven by blondes with large aftermarket equipment.
8) I like to build stuff and embrace the challenge.

The scope of the project has changed somewhat. Against better judgement, 'we' (Mrs rattle_snake) got a $1200 Chevy suburban to leave connected to the horse trailer. So her towing needs with it are pretty much gone.
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Old 11-05-2019, 12:56 PM   #103 (permalink)
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I'm in 100% agreement on all of the above, go 40's!

RE: #7, the aftermarket equipment in question, you're talking 'bout the Jeeps right
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Old 11-05-2019, 02:32 PM   #104 (permalink)
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I'm in 100% agreement on all of the above, go 40's!

RE: #7, the aftermarket equipment in question, you're talking 'bout the Jeeps right
Yes, both the jeeps and female drivers have had modifications/augmentations. Bolt-ons, whatever you want to call them.
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Old 11-05-2019, 03:06 PM   #105 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XJben View Post
Super sweet truck and build

Why not use a 35x12.5 tire (or close?) on a 16 or 17" steel wheel? Easier to build around, faster acceleration, better braking and steering, and looks so much more proportional on the old iron. No need to cut the front fenders. On, and cheaper with more options to choose from.

Just curious.

If this is just going to be a street/dirt road truck.
that might just be the dumbest thing ive heard today and that says alot as it is tuesday
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Old 11-07-2019, 01:37 PM   #106 (permalink)
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Shopping for some chevy 63s for the rear. What is best leaf pack type/number of leaves for my type of application?
Lots of 2 leaf 1500 around. Found some 99 2500hd 4 leaf+overload.

Thinking the 2500, ditch the overloads, maybe one less if needed.
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Old 11-07-2019, 04:27 PM   #107 (permalink)
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that might just be the dumbest thing ive heard today and that says alot as it is tuesday
Haha. 40's and obnoxius exhaust on a primarily street truck is pointless and not 'cool', even though I understand that some may think so. It gets attention, that's for sure, so if thats what its for....go all out.

My other comments are truth.....smaller tires are easier to build for and would allow for better acceleration, braking, steering, and overall drive ability.

I love these model Fords, and will be following.
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Old 11-10-2019, 10:31 AM   #108 (permalink)
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Haha. 40's and obnoxius exhaust on a primarily street truck is pointless and not 'cool', even though I understand that some may think so. It gets attention, that's for sure, so if thats what its for....go all out.

My other comments are truth.....smaller tires are easier to build for and would allow for better acceleration, braking, steering, and overall drive ability.

I love these model Fords, and will be following.
I dunno, 35s looked good on my highboy, but 37s would have looked better, I ran a straight pipe exhaust with the 6bt, but out over the rear wheel out the side, quiet enough in the cab, loud enough people turned around to look.

I'm digging the build, asked a neighbor about his neglected bump side the other day, not for sale..

Anyways, keep it up
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Old 11-11-2019, 10:52 AM   #109 (permalink)
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Clearly a Prius FWD conversion would be better in every way. I'm doing this all wrong.


I cut out the first piece of plate for frame boxing behind forward cross member. It didn't look right (somehow the cardboard was OK) and made me contemplate where material would actually be structurally beneficial. Trying to keep weight addition minimal. The upper portion of the frame is surrounded with the towers but the bottom isn't. I decided to add gussets to spread the sheer load into a longer section of the lower frame. This is needed the most at the front left corner where the track bar and steering box will exert force. The frame was mangled anyhow from the original cross member removal so inset them a bit.


The forward left side of frame will still get boxed for the steering gear, with a cut out for fuel/wiring and whatnot.


Also farting around with motor mounts, until I can get engine in place. I have a plan for lower mount extension. After cutting a simple rectangle for engine side, I think I will minimize shape/weight further


I ordered a bunch of parts for the D60, so can slowly move it forward too.
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Last edited by rattle snake; 11-11-2019 at 10:54 AM.
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Old 11-14-2019, 03:10 PM   #110 (permalink)
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I bought a spindle nut tool on amazon for the '95 D60, Alltrade 648477
"Fits The Following Vehicles: Ford F250/350 With Heavy Duty Axles 1985 And Newer; Ford F350 (Late Models) With Dana 50 Or 60 Axle;"

But the teeth are too wide. Wrong tool, or just poor QC? Grind and use or send back for the right one?

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Old 11-14-2019, 03:14 PM   #111 (permalink)
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Poor QC. I actually bought that same one and had same problem, Returned and bought one from autozone, same thing. So i took a small die grinder with an 1/16" bit and fixed them.
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Old 12-02-2019, 10:16 AM   #112 (permalink)
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Working on frame box for steering. Tired using a piece of wire as a template/guide for plasma cutter, it worked OK. The extraordinarily effectiveness of speed holes is well documented so no need to explain here.


Got the box temporarily mounted. Everything is a tight fit with axle moved forward. Will need to be spaced out for steering shaft to clear the Ruff Stuff towers.


Finally got replacement camshaft. It's not perfectly strait either, but good enough, I hope. It at least rotates in block OK so going to run it. Installed timing chain at 0* and verified cam timing with degree wheel. Next step is to get front cover, oil pan and head on to get it sealed up enough to test fit for motor mounts.
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Old 12-02-2019, 11:50 AM   #113 (permalink)
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great idea with the wire
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Old 12-03-2019, 09:56 AM   #114 (permalink)
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Thanks, I stole the idea from someplace.

Got the engine mostly sealed up. Used an axle u-bolt blank (5/8 fine) for a damper installer tool, it worked well to install damper backwards, so I got to use it twice.


Got the pan installed. Given my luck so far I tested the pickup clearance first. The pan, rails and one piece seal are from a late model, so had to drill out corners from 1/4 to 5/16 in all of them. I have to admit I'm a little bit of fastener whore, went with SS SHCS hardware.


Got the heads installed and torqued down. Ordered a push rod checker so I can determine correct push rod length for both intake and exhaust.
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Old 12-06-2019, 10:26 AM   #115 (permalink)
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With engine partially sealed up, I set it in the chassis to build some motor mounts. I used a bock of wood and cardboard to space pan up from cross member. The engine sits a little higher than I wanted...


Simple mount out of DOM with Ruff Stuff bushed sleeve.


I build the mounts straight with no provision for engine angle, which will be handled by the chassis side bracketry. The rear chassis bracket will need to be behind the cross member, so will attach to a gusset.


Since the motor is offset to the right, the left mount post is longer to accommodate.
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Last edited by rattle snake; 12-06-2019 at 10:30 AM.
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Old 12-10-2019, 11:06 AM   #116 (permalink)
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Used gusset to extended cross member back for rear mount tab

Mounts complete


Painted front axle. once trans mount is done will test fit and start on link bars.


Boxed frame between radius arm mount and trans cross member

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Old 12-10-2019, 12:37 PM   #117 (permalink)
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Nice build! Thanks for posting it.
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Old 12-10-2019, 05:40 PM   #118 (permalink)
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Are you planning on boxing the entire frame or just sections. Your attention to detail pisses me off. As I wish I was more like you haha. Build is looking great man
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Old 12-11-2019, 07:49 AM   #119 (permalink)
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cool build ,

we are converting gas 2wd 99 f350 crane truck
to 4wd 7.3 manual

gotta figure out what to use for front axle ,we want to keep the dually in back.
donor truck front axle got different gear ratio
leaning toward 05up front axle and maybe reusing the 2wd mounts
well see how that works out
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Old 12-11-2019, 09:49 AM   #120 (permalink)
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cool build ,

we are converting gas 2wd 99 f350 crane truck
to 4wd 7.3 manual

gotta figure out what to use for front axle ,we want to keep the dually in back.
donor truck front axle got different gear ratio
leaning toward 05up front axle and maybe reusing the 2wd mounts
well see how that works out
Not to derail this thread. But my research has lead me to think the 05+ swap is the easiest and nets the best result. You'll need an early model dually adapter since 05+ is a larger BP.
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Old 12-11-2019, 10:27 AM   #121 (permalink)
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Nice build! Thanks for posting it.
Thanks, having fun with this part of it. Still a long ways to go.

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Are you planning on boxing the entire frame or just sections. Your attention to detail pisses me off. As I wish I was more like you haha. Build is looking great man
No, just a few key areas. I have wasted a lot of time contemplating boxing, how much, were, what material, how many beers it will take.
Decided to take minimal approach, to keep weight low. For my use the frame doesn't need to be ape shit. It is already a 250 frame, which to my knowledge is thicker than an F-100 of same generation. Frame thickness is 0.200". So just boxing at RA mount and steering box, with gussets to spread load.

Thanks, but note how slow this build is coming along. That is the price for OCD/excessive attention to detail, or whatever you want to call it. Pretty pieces and a clean floor offset my shitty welding! It's improving but some overhead beads are droopy and resemble hammered dog shit.

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Originally Posted by fredycruger View Post
cool build ,

we are converting gas 2wd 99 f350 crane truck
to 4wd 7.3 manual

gotta figure out what to use for front axle ,we want to keep the dually in back.
donor truck front axle got different gear ratio
leaning toward 05up front axle and maybe reusing the 2wd mounts
well see how that works out
Thanks. Given your Jruck (?) build I'm sure you will get it sorted out. Grafting in the 05+ RA setup shouldn't be to bad.
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Old 12-13-2019, 10:55 AM   #122 (permalink)
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Made some progress on the X-mem. The lower fasteners have captive nuts welded inside. I contemplated boxing the ends fully but it provides little benefit for the weight added.


After some math and verification measurements, I was able to cut the big piece only once and it fit nicely. Trying to get everything within ~1/16" and 1* so everything fits well enough as the pieces come together.


With trans at *nominal* height, I left 1.25" below front yolk. Plan to run a 1350 double cardan shaft. Can notch if needed later for full droop case.


Fully welded on the bench


X-mem is a tight fit getting in but all 8 bolts line up. The holes are not over-sized (right at 0.500) for the 1/2-13 bolts. The fact they fit perfectly even after welding is a miracle for me.
Next step is to fab the transmission mount, which will be adjustable front/rear and be shim-able up/down.
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Old 12-13-2019, 11:48 AM   #123 (permalink)
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Clean work, really like how the engine crossmember and shock mount integration turned out. Everything so far looks really well thought out.

You've got some balls fully welding those shock mounts before hanging the axle and cycling it.

Last edited by mjlogan88; 12-13-2019 at 11:49 AM.
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Old 12-13-2019, 01:31 PM   #124 (permalink)
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Clean work, really like how the engine crossmember and shock mount integration turned out. Everything so far looks really well thought out.

You've got some balls fully welding those shock mounts before hanging the axle and cycling it.
Thanks. Most things are going to plan so far but some of it is adapt as I go. I had to commit to a few things based on math and measurements to keep the project moving forward. I have problems with analysis paralysis...

But yes next step is to get axle under the frame and make some temporary link bars out of conduit and cycle the suspension. Verify track bar and steering box mounting before committing to position and welding. I *think* the towers will be OK. I moved both ends of the coil overs to max clearance.
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Old 12-15-2019, 11:02 AM   #125 (permalink)
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Really enjoying this build, clean fab work. That t-case crossmember came out really good. Its like the quality of fab that I envision when I start most projects but then get impatient and/or run out of talent such that the end result often resembles something... lesser...
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