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Old 02-04-2020, 10:33 AM   #151 (permalink)
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Looks mint, keep up the nice work.
Thanks, getting to put clean stuff together is the fun part.
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You take really nice photos.
Provides the illusion I know what I'm doing...

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Looks great.

I've seen a few G2 hubs grenade on the trail but under pretty rough use.

I'm a big fan of the Yukons.

But then a hub as a weak link isn't necessarily a bad thing. Much rather break that than anything inward from there.
That's what I'm thinking too. Had good parts in a d44 w/37s and the hub would go first. Carried a spare set, easy to R&R. I have a backup for this 60.
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14 F-250 6.7 PSD, CCLB, 37s
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Old 02-04-2020, 01:22 PM   #152 (permalink)
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Trying direct links in this post...pita... resize...

Got motor installed (again). probably not the last time either.

Filled the torque converter up half way with fluid. This converter is a higher stall than factory (+300 rpm), guessing 1900-2100 rpm instead of 1600-1800. Intent is to get fully into power band to get this heavy pig rolling. Using dex/merc instead of type F.


Remembered to install shield first then flex plate. Nice to install all clean and painted parts.


Installed trans/TC first into chassis then motor and bolted them together. Then I took it back out to remove motor mounts and grease the bushing.



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72 F-250 Explorer 2WD to 4WD conversion 460, C6, NP205, D60/S10.25, 40s
14 F-250 6.7 PSD, CCLB, 37s

Last edited by rattle snake; 02-04-2020 at 01:33 PM.
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Old 02-05-2020, 09:55 AM   #153 (permalink)
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Installed transfer case. Made some 0.750 +/- 0.005" shims for the trans mount. It sets clearance from front yolk to cross member. I think a 1350 double cardan joint should just fit at full droop, to maximize cab to case clearance. May need a small body lift to clear trans and TC, we shall see...

Plan on using a stick style twin shifter in typical position to go with old school theme.

Good to finally have this stuff off the shop floor.
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72 F-250 Explorer 2WD to 4WD conversion 460, C6, NP205, D60/S10.25, 40s
14 F-250 6.7 PSD, CCLB, 37s

Last edited by rattle snake; 02-05-2020 at 09:57 AM.
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Old 02-10-2020, 12:35 PM   #154 (permalink)
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Justified a wheel purchase for the 72, went old-school with slot mags. 17x10 for 40x13.50-17 Toyo MT. Would have done a 9" wide but not available, only this one size in 8 lug.


Finished up the link bars. had a pair of bushing that were longer than the rest and wouldn't allow grease flow so cut them down on lathe. Should also help them deflect some more to help articulation.


tapped for zerk and installed bushings and rod end with anti-seize
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14 F-250 6.7 PSD, CCLB, 37s
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Old 02-10-2020, 12:37 PM   #155 (permalink)
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Positioned axle under chassis and installed link bars and coilovers, so I could snap a few pics and acknowledge the milestone. Broke down the engine & axle stands and put them in deep storage.


Beer thirty


Next step is to get tires mounted and get started on rear suspension.


should claw at the ground pretty good with skinny pedal down.
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14 F-250 6.7 PSD, CCLB, 37s
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Old 02-10-2020, 04:10 PM   #156 (permalink)
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Looks better than my 4wd conversion. I dig the build man mix of old and new school!
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Old 02-10-2020, 04:33 PM   #157 (permalink)
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Looks awesome!! Diggin the old school slots in a modern diameter.
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Old 02-11-2020, 08:45 AM   #158 (permalink)
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Looks better than my 4wd conversion. I dig the build man mix of old and new school!
Thanks. I guess I'm somewhat stuck in the 80s but spoiled on modern capabilities. Like steaming music, but still listening to AC/DC.


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Looks awesome!! Diggin the old school slots in a modern diameter.
Thanks. GLad that something new was available. Turbines was 1st choice but not being manufactured, and old stuff only in 16.5. Looking forward to getting doughnuts installed on them.
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14 F-250 6.7 PSD, CCLB, 37s
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Old 02-11-2020, 02:27 PM   #159 (permalink)
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Had a long talk with myself about project next steps, involving a few beers instead of getting any real work done. I believe I have decided to leave the front half, half done and get started on the rear. I had a few options:
- throw together a makeshift fuel system, buy rest of engine parts and start motor
- finish out steering and front brakes lines, install cab
- Leave the worn out stock leaves in and half-ass the rear suspension enough to get it rolling/drivable

Big tires are cool so I think I need to get it sitting on the 40s even though it should make things more difficult. The bed really needs to come off to clean frame and redo the spring hangers, but it's full of crap. So need to clean it out and find a home for all the stuff including the bed itself. I plan to make a wooden frame/trailer chassis to make the bed portable, using the old rear D60, leaves & wheels. Then get new springs and axle installed so it can roll on the big rubber.

Plan to use some chebby 63s, move stock hangers forward (if they are correct width), custom fab some rear hangers for shackle flip, and run a block as needed. I think I need 8" over the 2wd setup it has now.

Once rolling move on to the fuel system including a high capacity tank. Looking at blazer/burb tanks in 31 gallon at 28"x28"x12". For EFI one tank is preferred, but pump doesn't have to be in the tank. Will have to fab all mounting brackets, fill/vent hoses, a ford gauge compatible sending unit and a few other things. This should keep me busy for the foreseeable future.
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14 F-250 6.7 PSD, CCLB, 37s
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Old 02-11-2020, 02:52 PM   #160 (permalink)
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beautiful work as always, keep it coming
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Old 02-13-2020, 10:45 AM   #161 (permalink)
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beautiful work as always, keep it coming
Thanks. It might look good but has some issues. The additional bend I put in the track bar was too much and causing more issues.

Got the tires mounted. Had to drive around to 4 different tire shops to find one willing and capable. Tire pro's told me they could do 40s, but when I showed up they said 4 year old tires were 'too old'... guess they weren't interested. Shit, discount is 10 years, but no point even asking them.

The tainted tire with bead damage looks to have other issues as well. It sits and rolls tilted indicating broken belts. The other 3 don't. Probably why the seller bough new and sold these. But they will get it rolling and allow me to test fit, trim, hack and such, which was the point anyhow. Probably won't go down road for another 6-12 months anyhow, so a new set would just age also. Will never wear them out from miles. So, like most of my tires, they will spend there final days doing burnouts.


I think the wheel to sidewall ratio is a decent fit for this old Ford, unlike this:
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72 F-250 Explorer 2WD to 4WD conversion 460, C6, NP205, D60/S10.25, 40s
14 F-250 6.7 PSD, CCLB, 37s

Last edited by rattle snake; 02-13-2020 at 10:54 AM.
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Old 02-14-2020, 01:35 PM   #162 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rattle snake View Post
Had a long talk with myself about project next steps, involving a few beers instead of getting any real work done. I believe I have decided to leave the front half, half done and get started on the rear. I had a few options:
- throw together a makeshift fuel system, buy rest of engine parts and start motor
- finish out steering and front brakes lines, install cab
- Leave the worn out stock leaves in and half-ass the rear suspension enough to get it rolling/drivable
not that i get a vote, but I say take bed off and do all fab work.. then reinstall body.

Easy for me to say, I'm living vicariously.
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Old 02-14-2020, 02:43 PM   #163 (permalink)
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not that i get a vote, but I say take bed off and do all fab work.. then reinstall body.

Easy for me to say, I'm living vicariously.
haha, you'll have to clear those plans with Mrs. rattle snake first


Ya the plan is to remove the bed and hack stuff up.

I found a set of cheap Chebby 63s I plan to get tomorrow. They are 2 leaf +OL from a 02 2wd 1500. Would prefer a 3 leaf, 1500 4wd, 2500, etc but avoiding a JY trip cause I'm a lazy and short on time. Should allow me to get it rolling, and can swap out pack or add a leaf later if needed.

So is there a rule of thumb for locating the front hanger bolt from the center pin, aka wheel well center?

The arch will move tire back as it compresses. how far to offset forward, if at all?
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14 F-250 6.7 PSD, CCLB, 37s
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Old 02-17-2020, 12:56 PM   #164 (permalink)
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Finally had a weekend day to tackle the next step on this project. Got bed ready for removal and used an engine hoist to lift. The reach was a little short and caused the bed to catch on the hoist ram. But worked well enough to get it off


Rolled the chassis outside for pressure wash. First time the truck has seen sun light for awhile. Was an easy clean up compare to the filthy front end. Even in February the sun was hot enough to get the frame dry and painted within an hour. No rust. Rusty shit sucks.



Turned the chassis around to make working on the back half easier, and removed the rear axle as an assembly.


I used my redneck engineering skills to conceive and build a temporary trailer chassis to be able to store bed and front clip someplace else.


Frame is construed from twoba-furs, with springs bolted on. No need for shackles or anything fancy like that. I continue to learn from the ghetto fab/hack job thread.


added a tongue extension and built a slick ball coupler out of a piece of exhaust tubing. Put the hood, fenders and so in the 'trailer' and used my certified redneck camouflage 4 wheeler to park it back at the barn.
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14 F-250 6.7 PSD, CCLB, 37s
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Old 02-17-2020, 01:05 PM   #165 (permalink)
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Where I live, your temporary bed dolly would be more road worthy than lots of the stuff actually on the road..

The whole build looks good!
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Old 02-17-2020, 08:46 PM   #166 (permalink)
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What are the rims it’s wearing currently?
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Old 02-18-2020, 08:44 AM   #167 (permalink)
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Where I live, your temporary bed dolly would be more road worthy than lots of the stuff actually on the road..

The whole build looks good!
Thanks. I see some pretty sketchy landscape trailers around here too.

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What are the rims itís wearing currently?
They came on the truck so don't have exact PN. Eagle Alloy brand 17x8.
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Old 02-18-2020, 10:11 AM   #168 (permalink)
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Thanks. I see some pretty sketchy landscape trailers around here too.



They came on the truck so don't have exact PN. Eagle Alloy brand 17x8.
Thanks.
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Old 02-20-2020, 10:10 AM   #169 (permalink)
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Chipping away at the rear frame clean up. Lots of rivets to remove, at least 30. Got the aux fuel tank supporting hardware and the spring hangers removed from the left side.

Also cut the bumper off. It was welded on including the support through the spare tire area. Going to re-use the bumper because it fits the style, but will need to re-do all the mounts and receiver hitch support.

Removing rivets is a pain. Trying a new method with plasma. Cut head off, grind flush, then gouge out the middle of rivet with plasma cutter. Let if cool a bit then hammer out. Noticeable improvement over not doing plasma step.

Why go to the effort to replace a leaf spring with a leaf spring? Well, trying to keep things simple, and I don't want to hack up the bed for coilover/shock towers. The old 54" springs are sagged out and have almost no droop. The 63s I got are 2+1 leaf design from a 2002 1500 2WD. So may need to go to a heavier pack the future depending on how these work and what I end up carrying in the bed.

The free height of the spring is around 10", and the arc length to eye-to-eye difference is only 2" If my math is right the shackle will only move 2" and the pin (axle) 1" though the travel. Hope to get 12+" of travel at the wheel. Also plan to run the 4" blocks out of the doner F-350 to get the height I think I need. Once the body is back on I can asses the ride height and adjust as needed. Ideally I would not run a block in the rear.

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72 F-250 Explorer 2WD to 4WD conversion 460, C6, NP205, D60/S10.25, 40s
14 F-250 6.7 PSD, CCLB, 37s

Last edited by rattle snake; 02-20-2020 at 10:14 AM.
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Old 02-24-2020, 12:21 PM   #170 (permalink)
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The Chevy springs are wider than the old ones. Need to mod or make new hangers. Decided to make my own. Ruff stuff makes a custom rear hanger, but I couldn't really find a nice option for the front, so I figured I would put my new press brake to work.


Simple design out of 1/4". Also got a new welding hood. Quite an improvement over the HF turd I had. Welds are looking less shitty.


Frame to spring distance is about same as stock. Front hanger eye bolt is down about 1.5" lower than stock.


Went back and boxed the rear mount, not because I needed to, but because I had to. tapped for grease zerks.
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72 F-250 Explorer 2WD to 4WD conversion 460, C6, NP205, D60/S10.25, 40s
14 F-250 6.7 PSD, CCLB, 37s

Last edited by rattle snake; 02-24-2020 at 12:52 PM.
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Old 02-24-2020, 12:47 PM   #171 (permalink)
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Removed rear most cross member in prep for fuel tank mounting. Replaced with a piece of 2x4 x 3/16 tube. Notched the tube ends to get a nice fit.


Will have to modify the the next one forward, so might replace with 2x4 as well. Moving the cross members away from the rear hanger doesn't help. Contemplating doing some frame boxing in this area. Once tank is installed, no access inside frame so plan to weld some captive nuts for bumper mounting.


Located and tacked the hangers on the frame, might have to move them. Set shackle to be vertical at full droop, but hard to estimate. Tacked the axle perches on at an arbitrary angle just to get thing together. Will have to adjust later.
Undecided on further hanger reinforcements. Have some ideas. Maybe not needed. Trying to minimize weight everywhere.


Was able to use the F350 blocks, plates and u bolts. Shorted the U bolts a bit but have under $100 in the rear spring swap. Shackles are a little too long, might shorten if possible. Might not need a 4" block either.
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72 F-250 Explorer 2WD to 4WD conversion 460, C6, NP205, D60/S10.25, 40s
14 F-250 6.7 PSD, CCLB, 37s

Last edited by rattle snake; 02-24-2020 at 12:55 PM.
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Old 02-24-2020, 01:46 PM   #172 (permalink)
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So at this point I had to put the big tires on....


A lot of work to get to this point. Long ways to go. Next steps are brake and fuel system plumbing. Then steering, and so on...




Bent the arm just enough to clear at full turn. Guessed correctly for once.
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Old 02-24-2020, 05:18 PM   #173 (permalink)
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Dude those rear spring hangers are bitchin. Almost stock looking.
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Old 02-25-2020, 01:23 AM   #174 (permalink)
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Very nice!!! Im excited to see this build come together.
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Old 02-25-2020, 06:36 AM   #175 (permalink)
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They came on the truck so don't have exact PN. Eagle Alloy brand 17x8.
I'm kinda looking for some 17s for a project, are you going to keep these around or sell them?
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