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Old 11-05-2019, 07:35 PM   #1 (permalink)
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exhaust bolts & carb questions

I have a 1986 F-150 4x4 4.9 i6, 4 speed.

I am changing engines and the studs on the exhaust flange (where the tail pipe bolts on) are shot ...still there but no threads left on them.

I have the nuts and have been trying to match them all night ... so far nothing fits.

My best "guess" is they are M10-1.5 x ?????

They look like they have a nut in the middle where they hit the flange.

i have not taken them out yet ... need to find someone with a torch who is willing to bring it over.

Anyway ... am I right? Are they M10-1.5?

What studs do am I looking for? Will these work or are there others (real Ford ones or ???): https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-157...origin=keyword

Next ... I need a carb

The one on my old engine had no electronics (maybe off a 1980 or ????) and someone had put a manual choke on it. It worked great but had fuel leaking out of everywhere, threads stripped on the filter, corrosion all over, ......

The one on the new engine has wires hanging off of it. It came from the same year (1986) but an automatic.

It has a solenoid for idle control, a throttle position sensor, electric choke and some other solenoid on the side of near the vent.

of coarse there are no tags on either.

So ... looked on Rock Auto ... $200 for a new one ... OUCH ,,, only paid $1000 for the truck and $400 for the engine.

Looked on ebay ... NEW ... $65 - $85 ... much better but I read all kinds of posts about these being cheap knock offs and "dangerous" ... don't know if that is true.

I thought about trying to rebuild my old one but with no tag I don't even know what kit to get ... Rock Auto has two kits and they look very different.

Thanks so much !!!!!!!!!!

Mike
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Old 11-05-2019, 08:29 PM   #2 (permalink)
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forgot manifold valve ????

Forgot to ask ... what do I do with the flapper valve in the exhaust manifold?

On my old engine is was dead (nothing there).

In this engine the valve is free and moving!

I see a spring on the outside but it has been "played" with .... don't know if the spring is holding the valve closed or open.

I would be happy to hold it open but I'm not sure what open is.

Thanks again .... Mike
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Old 11-05-2019, 08:35 PM   #3 (permalink)
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mixture control solenoid

OK ... found out what the other solenoid is on the new carb .... a Mixture Control Solenoid.


I have nothing to hook it to so like the other wires, it is just hanging there.


Mike
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Old 11-06-2019, 08:58 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Typically the exhaust studs are a 5/8 nut on a 7/16-14 stud.
Typically a nut for a 7/14-14 are 11/16 head, so that's what you'll find at a hardware store, and they should work.
There is a Dorman kit (your link didn't work for me) link below.
The nut in the middle you're seeing is a bolt head to tighten it into the manifold which has threaded holes to receive it.
If you can heat the manifold up good, and gently remove the old stud, run a tap thru the holes to clean it up, and then install the dorman studs, you'll be all set!
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...135/22148141-P

With regard to your feedback carburetor with all the electronic stuff on it, I don't have any experience with those.
I'd try seeing how well it runs without the fancy items connected.
Maybe during your rebuild process it'll become apparent how you can eliminate some of that junk.
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Last edited by landen300; 11-06-2019 at 08:58 AM.
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Old 11-06-2019, 09:03 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xtal_01 View Post
Forgot to ask ... what do I do with the flapper valve in the exhaust manifold?

On my old engine is was dead (nothing there).

In this engine the valve is free and moving!

I see a spring on the outside but it has been "played" with .... don't know if the spring is holding the valve closed or open.

I would be happy to hold it open but I'm not sure what open is.

Thanks again .... Mike
I'd get rid of it if it were me, unless you've got strict emissions testing in your area. I think it's just a thermostatically opened valve that helps the engine warm up faster. I believe the spring holds it closed, and the valve gradually opens it. If you remove it, you'll only be ahead, especially if all the electronic emissions controls aren't present or working.
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Old 11-06-2019, 08:45 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Thanks !!!!!!!!!!!

Unbelievable ... took 3 hours to dig out my touches (put them in storage almost 10 years ago when I moved from SC to VT ... still have 1/2 full tanks) ... then I put my impact on the studs and they both came right out!

Dorman link looks exactly like mine!

Thanks for the info on the valve ... exactly what I wanted to know ... "spring holds closed ...weight opens" ... the guy who put in my engine said he "fixed" the broken spring .. he put in on backwards ...duh.

It is hard to see and I was not sure what open is ... I see how the weight holds it open now.

I will fix it in this position (or remove it if I can).

Thanks again!

Mike
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