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Old 12-14-2005, 10:42 AM   #126 (permalink)
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just wait till it gets to the house. then the real changing is going to happen. right now im making it road worthy to pass the saftey inspection in texas....


then its off to the plasma cutter and welder
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Old 12-14-2005, 11:05 AM   #127 (permalink)
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Cool....3K is very do-able. I have just over 3K in this. $250 purchase price.

The day I drug it to the body shop where I worked.



As it sits today.

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Old 12-16-2005, 03:10 AM   #128 (permalink)
 
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Does this rate?

I'm in for about $3500. Maybe 500 over budget. can I stile compete? Or is the Halogrinder way too pure?

Up front I paid $1500 for this rig. It came with over $8K in receipts for the following:

rebuilt trans (c6)
rebuilt t-case (np205)
rebuilt front d44
rebuilt rear 9in
fresh brakes all around
no rust, not perfectly straight original Ford yellow body (perfect in my book)
Built 400M that would not pass emissions (thought I could squeeze by)
No interior besides the decent driver and passenger seats (fine by me, garden hose clean-up)

OK, 1500

Then, Add the major rework on the motor to make it legal ($1000 rebuild-long story)

Add misc BS $500
Add (used and installed backwards) big tires $350

Here's what you get:http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/....php?id=271287

http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/...287&original=1

Does it qualify even if the number don't add up? It is a solid reliable rig. Starts easy, runs sweet, climbs, makes big noise, etc.......like a monster quad for half price right?

Last edited by krunch; 12-16-2005 at 03:22 AM.
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Old 12-16-2005, 03:28 PM   #129 (permalink)
 
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Installed backwards? Just swap them side to side.
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Old 12-16-2005, 03:31 PM   #130 (permalink)
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nah dood, build it the way you want....there aint nuthin pure about me

track arm bushings. 15.00
gotta take it off and fix it...its yuck
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Old 12-18-2005, 04:50 PM   #131 (permalink)
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ok so i took off the track bar off of the front end friday night, in anticipation of the new bushings...... the bracket on the frame is totally wasted, so i need to replace/repair it, and the bolt on the axle housing is loose in the bore..... i searched for a while with no real information on repairing the axle end of the track bar. its not "super" loose, but definatley loose in comparison of a new bolt and bore.


the frame side of the track bar, ill probobly make a new one when i fix the frame for the steering box. so intergrating it into that might be simpler....other than that, what could i use or do to repair the loose hole in the bracket?
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Old 12-18-2005, 05:03 PM   #132 (permalink)
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Track bar repair:

http://www.projectbronco.com/Technic..._mount_fix.htm
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Old 12-18-2005, 11:30 PM   #133 (permalink)
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Hey, great thread....for the bed, you keepin the floor when you dovetail it or just leavin it open to the frame?

Zach
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Old 12-19-2005, 06:30 AM   #134 (permalink)
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either im going to try and salvage some part of the floor, or im going to use expanded steel, or 16 guage sheet metal.... when i get the bed off i can check out the rust problem of the bed. so far, you can see thru the bed in some spots, so i know there are some problem areas.
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Old 12-20-2005, 05:48 AM   #135 (permalink)
 
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I'll put a "Christmas"
package together for ya........you buy the plane ticket

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Old 12-20-2005, 06:14 AM   #136 (permalink)
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come awn....lol

gimmie yer paypal address buzz
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Old 12-22-2005, 07:06 PM   #137 (permalink)
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ok so i got the power steering figgured out. i found a power steering pressure hose by digging thru the vatozone shelves that had about what i wanted... the only bad thing was that i needed to swap the ends....so i cut off both ends of the hold hose to get the fittings, cut off the ends of the new hose and double flared them back together. its super duper ghetto-fabulous hose, but it gets the job done. the funky thing is, is that the pump outlet is only like 8 inches from the box inlet....but no hoses are made that short. so this one goes around the pump, under the pulley of the pump and beside the box :grin: like i said, it works..... no money spent really, cause the returns were on a gift certificate....

also bought a cheap ass tranny cooler from them, and told em it was damaged slightly.... thats the new p.s. cooler now.
still waiting on the brake lines, the gears and the turn signal switch. i think thats gonna be about it, minus the fuel tanks im gonna ditch. im currently surfing ebay for a used cell of about 15-25 gallons for the bed
20.00

the trackbar bushings were refunded to me, since they ran out of stock. the ones on the truck are poly, so im going to try to reuse them, and rebuild the trackbar mount on the frame...... we'll see how badly the steering is after that.

im going to cali for a week, so prolly no new updates till after the first of the year.

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Last edited by Halogrinder; 12-30-2005 at 11:37 PM.
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Old 12-27-2005, 12:53 PM   #138 (permalink)
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Any updates???
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Old 12-27-2005, 07:04 PM   #139 (permalink)
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Nice little project, wished I had read it sooner. I had lots of the stuff you were lookin for. Still have the 9" with stock gear (was going to use on the buggy) came out of a 78 F150. Converted to disks. Do you still need the D44 diagram? Did you need a new bearing retainer for your rear disk swap? I have some of the Currie ones, if ya need them. Shoot me a PM if ya need anything I might have. Need a spare ford hub, lemme know?
Most of the front ford stuff I ain't even using any more.
What side of Houston you on? I am south of Houston 45 minutes. Don't see many wheelers down here. Unless they are in high school.
Later
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Old 12-28-2005, 09:40 PM   #140 (permalink)
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I STILL need to find the seal that goes into the axle tube for the front axle shafts.

i havent been to work yet, but if buzz hasnt sent them by then, then im driving down to see you and getting them. i need them ASAP. i need to get the truck mobile again, my superiors are getting pissed its sitting in the back of the shop for a month

dont need the bearing retainers, got that taken care of.

I NEED THE GEARZ
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Old 12-30-2005, 11:39 PM   #141 (permalink)
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ok i got the gears, the rear end goes back tomarrow
gears = 50 bucks

the turn signal switch, i ordered, for 70 bucks
should be here on the 5th....then the truck comes home when i wire it up and get a green sheet.


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Old 01-03-2006, 05:30 PM   #142 (permalink)
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ok so it didnt really go as planned. the pinion on the rear end was trashed w/ a speedi sleeve on it. when getting the turning torque correct, i saw the speedi sleeve spinning. i decided to take it off, to see the damage, and it was pretty rough. being the redneck i am, i took it off, welded the groove up and ground it down. i emery clothed it, and put it back together. well you would mistake my pinion for a fawking oil pump it spews oil out so much. k no biggie. i got a used one coming on friday. the pinion seal is new, but leaks past the steel outer side of the seal so a smear of silicone took care of that. i gotta make sure this truck is leak free, so my pretty new driveway isnt scarred...lo.

so installed the third, and put my axles in. had to use washers where the backing plates used to be so i dont have the axle retainers push the axle seals in too far.

hooked up the driveshaft and got the rear end spinning so i could use the grinder on the axle flanges. i got em ground down enough (approx 1/16 of an inch) so the hats of the rotors would go on.

got the front brake lines all hooked up, the master cylinder bled on the front system, and had to find a 9/16 to 3/16 adapter out of the master...that comes in late this week or early next week. fawking 20 bucks for a little peice of brass
my ghetto adapter leaks, so i need to do it right.
the rear brackets, im going to wait till i get to the house before installing those. im not confident with the welder at the shop, its not strong enough. im going to plumb the lines minus the calipers and brackets w/ the rear resivour never filled, i dont have to worry about it leaking. ill just drive it home stupid slow so i can continue it at the house.

when trying to steer the wheel, its REALLY chocky. i pulled the u joint off of the bottom of the steering column, to find that steering shaft u joint so fawked up i couldnt turn it..lol so i need to either replace it or repair it... any suggestions? im going to see if my double cardan cv shaft off of a BMW X5 will work.... ill check tonight.

pulled the factory perportioning valve out to mount my wilwood p.v. down there...yes, this is the second peice of bling on the truck. the first are the brake lines

waiting on the turn signal switch before doing any wiring on it.

waiting on a price for a simple 4 point cage for the inside when i get stupid.

thinking about just pulling the broken leafs out of the spring pack and running the beat up leaf springs for now.

trying to find a electric fan to get rid of the nasty flex fan. those fawkers are dangerous.

brake line adaptor 20 bucks
u joint straps 7 bucks
metal brake lines 11 bucks

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Last edited by Halogrinder; 01-03-2006 at 05:32 PM.
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Old 01-03-2006, 08:12 PM   #143 (permalink)
 
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If you looking for a good electric fan, I've only heard good things about Ford Taraus Fans.
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Old 01-03-2006, 08:14 PM   #144 (permalink)
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yea, but im looking for a used BMW electric fan floating around at the dealership first.....its free..lol
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Old 01-04-2006, 09:36 AM   #145 (permalink)
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IM AMAZED at the uses of PB blaster. I took off the steering shaft and fawked with the ujoint while spraying PB blaster in there....GOOD TO GO!

reinstalled and steering is bueno now.
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Old 01-07-2006, 05:26 PM   #146 (permalink)
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pulled the gas tanks. rear one is trash. front one (main tank) is going to be reused in the bed. after pulling it out, i found its a poly tank, and in actually good shape. cleaned it up, got the rocks out of it,and threw it in the bed for now to get it going till it gets to the house.

changed the oil. the engine has two dipsticks one in the timing case cover, the other one on the drivers side oil pan. wtf?
i put 7 quarts in it, and it still doesnt touch either dipstick. double WTF

pulled all the unnessasary brake lines, and fuel lines.
installed the new front coils, ditched the front shocks. im gonna flex it out on the forklift next week to measure for shocks.
bought a universal temp switch for a electric fan 17.00

brought back the brake adapter -20
brought back the straps, duh, i got u bolts.lol -7
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Old 01-09-2006, 02:51 PM   #147 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Halogrinder
changed the oil. the engine has two dipsticks one in the timing case cover, the other one on the drivers side oil pan. wtf?
i put 7 quarts in it, and it still doesnt touch either dipstick. double WTF
Put the pan plug back in? lol 'spose you'da noticed 7 qts. on the floor though.

My 400 holds 6qts, including the filter? Two dipsticks and they're both too short?
Something doesn't sound right there. :captainobvious:
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Old 01-09-2006, 04:06 PM   #148 (permalink)
 
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Some fords have the dipstick in the pan, some in the timing cover, depends on year. Someone got the best of both worlds. I'd trust the pan one first, and try swapping the two. Too bad youre not near Bowling Green KY, I have 3" fullsize leafs for days
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Old 01-09-2006, 05:28 PM   #149 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 79broncn
Put the pan plug back in? lol 'spose you'da noticed 7 qts. on the floor though.

My 400 holds 6qts, including the filter? Two dipsticks and they're both too short?
Something doesn't sound right there. :captainobvious:

my 400 takes almost 8
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Old 01-09-2006, 08:56 PM   #150 (permalink)
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ok ill just keep adding untill it whacks either dipstick i guess. im assuming the engine was replaced some time or another, or the oil pan was put on from something else. i dunno. the sticks wont interchange, and as far as i could tell, neither were touching. ill double check tomarrow.


i got the turn signal switch in, but im still having blinker problems. the 4 ways work with the lights off, but not when they are on.
neither turn signal works. blinker relay does tick tock when the 4 ways are on... is there an additional relay? anyone have schematics on the wiring for this truck? another wierd thing was when i installed the switch, the little metal stick you thread in there would turn on the right blinker detent, and middle, but wouldnt make the left detent go on... it was hitting the column... so i clearanced it w/ my diegrinder.



got my redneck theft proofing system in. ill show you the neeto thing i did to get that to work.
i need to get bumpstops for the front end. i guess ill get the polyurethane style ones? any suggestions? i KNOW that these bumpstops will be used. i was hopping the front end off the ground at the shop w/ no shocks on the front end..lol it was funny as hell, till my not-tied-down-battery decided to hang on by wedging himself between the alternator and the flex fan hes ok though. *mental note* make a battery hold down
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