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Old 08-14-2007, 11:14 PM   #51 (permalink)
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30 psi
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74 f100, 4bt, 3link hp 60/14 bolt, welded f/r np435/205
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Old 08-15-2007, 03:22 AM   #52 (permalink)
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You might also try one of these fillers -- work like magic on difficult to bleed systems:

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog

Both use shop air to pull a vacuum on the entire cooling system (also a good test for leaks), then suck up the anti-freeze with no air bubbles. A great shop tool that a lot of guys never hear about.
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Old 08-15-2007, 07:00 AM   #53 (permalink)
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That setup looks pretty slick, did he have something under the rad to keep rocks from getting kicked up into it?
He had some kind of guard, but I don't remember. With those two fans it would get a little hot running down the road. They were wired as pushers and debris would fall down through the fan and collect inside the shrouds and inhibit air flow, so he switched to this Volvo fan he got for free and mounted it on the underside. Never had any trouble with rocks or anything. The Volvo fan controllers go bad under warranty, and they replace the whole unit at the dealer, but the fans are still good.
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Old 08-15-2007, 08:14 AM   #54 (permalink)
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automotive systems are only as high as what your rad cap is rated for (actually a tad higher, but you get the point), ever see one pop off .
Doh! :smacks head:

I knew that Got to stop posting late at night when tired and inebriated I think I've got a 14psi cap on mine.

Just an interesting note....when Ivan put a hella-bling high output electric water pump on his rear-mount radiator system he had some cooling problems. Why? Because the pump was moving the fluid SO fast it wasn't spending enough time in the radiator to cool down. He ended up having to install a valve that he'd have partially closed to slow down the flow......which instantly resulted in the cooling problems vanishing. Just thought I'd mention it since that was an unusual problem.
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Old 08-15-2007, 04:28 PM   #55 (permalink)
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Yeah its a fine balance with flow and pressure in the system, to fast is don't spend enough time in the rad to transfer the heat and to slow and its not transfering enough heat. I've noticed that some sbc guys running rear mount rads have over heating issues due the water pump they're using are handle the increased load from the extra fluid and the height they have to push it when mounted up high.
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Old 08-15-2007, 07:02 PM   #56 (permalink)
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A radiator cap has the potential to run the pressure that it is rated at, but under normal conditions it will run in the 15-20 psi range. They offer boil over protection (about 2 degrees per pound) above what they normally use. Which is why "race" motors will see 30+ psi caps for an added safety margin. It wouldnt hurt to run a higher cap as long as your rad is built to handle it.
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Old 08-15-2007, 11:00 PM   #57 (permalink)
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1-1/4-2" copper pipe soldered with 95/5 alloy tin solder should be good for about 400psi

Copper is hella exspensive over here though, the copper for my water main on my new house was around $900-1000(80-100ft of 2")
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Old 08-16-2007, 01:56 AM   #58 (permalink)
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My concern with copper and soldered fittings isn't with the pressure...it's with the vibrations. Solder doesn't make for a real strong mechanical connection. It does a fine job of sealing, but even with the tubing properly restrained there's going to be some movement. Couple that with the pressure and you might have a problem. The most movement pipes in a house see is a little water hammer usually. It's kind of like solid strand wire. It works great in a house where it is staples to beams that don't move, but there is a reason we use stranded stuff in automotive applications and it goes beyond the additional current carrying ability of stranded wire....
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Old 09-24-2007, 02:51 PM   #59 (permalink)
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My concern with copper and soldered fittings isn't with the pressure...it's with the vibrations. Solder doesn't make for a real strong mechanical connection. It does a fine job of sealing, but even with the tubing properly restrained there's going to be some movement.
You'll note I mentioned using soft "flex" points to absorb the movement/vibration. Anyof the guys here that have been wheeling with me will tell you I beat the holy everlivin' piss out of my truck......and I've had zero leaks or problems with the copper pipe in over five years. Thats a pretty good testimony....
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Old 09-24-2007, 03:29 PM   #60 (permalink)
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My concern with copper and soldered fittings isn't with the pressure...it's with the vibrations. Solder doesn't make for a real strong mechanical connection. It does a fine job of sealing, but even with the tubing properly restrained there's going to be some movement. Couple that with the pressure and you might have a problem. The most movement pipes in a house see is a little water hammer usually. It's kind of like solid strand wire. It works great in a house where it is staples to beams that don't move, but there is a reason we use stranded stuff in automotive applications and it goes beyond the additional current carrying ability of stranded wire....
With the right wire, you can tig copper.

Granted, it still kinda like a solder but its alot stronger.
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Old 05-01-2008, 10:22 AM   #61 (permalink)
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usually 13-17 psi
I thought it was more like 5-10 psi, the cooling system tester from shcucks has you pressurize the system to 15 psi, IIRC...

Does anyone have a price on the all hose route, copper tubing here is $3.80 a foot for 1.25".
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Old 05-01-2008, 11:21 AM   #62 (permalink)
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thanks for dragging this out


seems



i have not logged in for ahwhile


i cant belive that copper holds up. definatly kudos to careful planning and construction/mainainence. conduit is alot easier to deal with, but will vibrate holes in itself in short order. i would probably go flat on the deck like the chevy though, thats what the bb rangers and other small rigs do in detroit area in general.

but after seeing this i think i will give copper a shot.
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Last edited by bobbywalter; 05-01-2008 at 11:23 AM.
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Old 05-01-2008, 01:32 PM   #63 (permalink)
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i cant belive that copper holds up.
Probably because you are thinking of your standard, thin wall copper pipe used in home plumbing, I believe thats M grade.

I'll just add (since I don't recall if I mentioned it before) that you want to use the heavier grade copper (which is what I used)....its much thicker wall than the standard. Look for either grade L or K.
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[QUOTE=94stepsideford;7266691]Seth is scarier than you though. He looks like he would kill and eat a baby with his bare hands.[/QUOTE]
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Old 05-01-2008, 08:23 PM   #64 (permalink)
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And, shop at your local construction site like all the other scavangers...
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Old 05-01-2008, 09:19 PM   #65 (permalink)
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And, shop at your local construction site like all the other scavangers...
Well, what you have to watch out for is that most of the shit laying around will be the thin wall grade M shit that they use for indoor plumbing. What you want is the grade L or even better K stuff....I think those grades are used for the underground lines running from the water main/meter to the house.

Oh yea, and cuz its illegal
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Old 07-21-2008, 06:28 AM   #66 (permalink)
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I looked up the TSC spray transfer hose and the only stuff I could find was only rated for 160F continuous use (which doesn't necessarily mean it isn’t suitable), but here are some other options for running the coolant lines and the local (Canadian) prices I found for them for the 1.5” and 1.75” I.D.

http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?br...cation_id=5216
1.5” @ $5.60/ft and 1.75” @ $6.05/ft
http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?br...cation_id=5217
1.5” @ $6.80/ft and 1.75” @ $7.75/ft


And these but they only come in 5ft lengths and are crazy expensive
http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?br...cation_id=5241 1.5” x 5ft @ $120ea and 1.75” x 5ft @ $140ea
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Old 09-15-2012, 10:41 PM   #67 (permalink)
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I am new to all of this. How did you secure ur copper pipe to the frame ? did you use all one piece or did u put elbows and and corners in to feed it up to the engine and to the radiator ? Please get back to me I am trying to go about doing this the right way the first time.

Thanks,
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Old 05-19-2016, 06:07 PM   #68 (permalink)
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What about if I have an 01 blazer and I wanna relocate the rad? Any ideas? It's not street driven or anything. And I plan on choppin it and adding a roll cage in the back. Was thinking of mounting it on the roll cage and what not. My main concern is plumbing. Any tips or ideas?
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Old 05-19-2016, 06:27 PM   #69 (permalink)
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What about if I have an 01 blazer and I wanna relocate the rad? Any ideas? It's not street driven or anything. And I plan on choppin it and adding a roll cage in the back. Was thinking of mounting it on the roll cage and what not. My main concern is plumbing. Any tips or ideas?
You have to ask in general chit chat.
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Old 06-04-2016, 09:43 PM   #70 (permalink)
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How do you keep hose from blowing off the copper pipe?
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Old 06-05-2016, 04:59 AM   #71 (permalink)
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I've heard rumors that some use hose clamps. Not sure where you find such a thing or how much that might cost though. I looked at the local burger King and asked at McDonald's and they both looked at me like I was crazy. Probably will have to special order some from some custom place. Maybe machine some.
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Old 06-07-2016, 06:49 PM   #72 (permalink)
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How do you keep hose from blowing off the copper pipe?
Fuckin weld it on douchebag
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Old 06-07-2016, 07:36 PM   #73 (permalink)
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...,
Troll, and probably a certain previously banned user who is obsessed about sneaking back in.

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How do you keep hose from blowing off the copper pipe?
Not sure on this one. Possibly a nooblet but probably the same guy as above.

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douchebag
Bingo. Lets not forget to advise him to teabag a blender full of carpet tacks set to puree on the way out, and we're golden
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[QUOTE=94stepsideford;7266691]Seth is scarier than you though. He looks like he would kill and eat a baby with his bare hands.[/QUOTE]
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Old 06-10-2016, 05:02 PM   #74 (permalink)
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Smartass wannabees
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Old 06-10-2016, 05:04 PM   #75 (permalink)
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I've heard rumors that some use hose clamps. Not sure where you find such a thing or how much that might cost though. I looked at the local burger King and asked at McDonald's and they both looked at me like I was crazy. Probably will have to special order some from some custom place. Maybe machine some.
Guy probably went to school with obamma

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