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Old 02-20-2018, 03:44 PM   #1001 (permalink)
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argh.

little shit....never ending little shit....
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88 ranger ext cab p.o.s. hackjob powered by a 6.5 diesel clattering against a 4l80 thats punishing a f208 that is turning ford 60's rolling on 33-44 inch tires depending on the mission at hand


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Old 02-22-2018, 09:05 PM   #1002 (permalink)
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talked to Gary and he mentioned that if the pressure was going really high then coming back down, there is likely a restriction/blockage in the return line. He said that when it is running he bets the pressure creeps up. Once I get the ecu back, I'll test the pressure again with it running.

TDS is next weekend, so I'll probably not do much to this before after that. Also, looks like the trans in the daily is finally starting to give hints it is time for a replacement, so likely pushes super bitchin parts to the back burner. THat just means junkyard parts and cheap driveshafts are on the list. haha

More to come
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Old 04-13-2018, 02:56 PM   #1003 (permalink)
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Been a while since I've updated anything, but I'm still here. The Explorer is fine and ready to go out on the trails again. I've been studying for a work certification so haven't really wrenched on the trucks.

What I have done is pull the fuel tank and lines out of the truck. The 2001 tank in the older frame was way too close to the driveshaft and transfer case, so out it came. I'm looking at putting my 15 gallon RCI cell under the bed where the spare tire went. I have the room between the shock mount and rear of the bed, but the frame isn't wide enough. Wanted to pick your all's brains on this.

Thoughts are to notch out the top of the frame to drop the cell down in, while leaving the bottom section alone. Once the cell is in, make a bolt on C notch to go over the top of the tank and bring some rigidity back to that section of the frame (which I have verified is bent slightly)


Also found the rear axle is sitting 1/2" further back on the passenger side than the driver side. Plan is to still run a 2 piece driveshaft, and swap to a 1500 Silverado leaf pack instead of my 2500 pack I have in there now. Also move the front leaf mount back 1/2" on the driver side to get it lined up properly.

Next hurdle is the fuel lines, foam for the cell, and pump. I've been reading a lot about late 80s bronco pumps that are on the fuel rail being great, so I would then need an aftermarket fuel regulator. Trying to write all this down so I remember it. And see what y'all think. Current tank won't work, bronco 2 tank won't fit with shock mounts, and I believe it will sit lower than the cell would. Can easily build a skid plate for the cell.

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Old 04-13-2018, 03:12 PM   #1004 (permalink)
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Been a while since I've updated anything, but I'm still here. The Explorer is fine and ready to go out on the trails again. I've been studying for a work certification so haven't really wrenched on the trucks.

What I have done is pull the fuel tank and lines out of the truck. The 2001 tank in the older frame was way too close to the driveshaft and transfer case, so out it came. I'm looking at putting my 15 gallon RCI cell under the bed where the spare tire went. I have the room between the shock mount and rear of the bed, but the frame isn't wide enough. Wanted to pick your all's brains on this.

Thoughts are to notch out the top of the frame to drop the cell down in, while leaving the bottom section alone. Once the cell is in, make a bolt on C notch to go over the top of the tank and bring some rigidity back to that section of the frame (which I have verified is bent slightly)


Also found the rear axle is sitting 1/2" further back on the passenger side than the driver side. Plan is to still run a 2 piece driveshaft, and swap to a 1500 Silverado leaf pack instead of my 2500 pack I have in there now. Also move the front leaf mount back 1/2" on the driver side to get it lined up properly.

Next hurdle is the fuel lines, foam for the cell, and pump. I've been reading a lot about late 80s bronco pumps that are on the fuel rail being great, so I would then need an aftermarket fuel regulator. Trying to write all this down so I remember it. And see what y'all think. Current tank won't work, bronco 2 tank won't fit with shock mounts, and I believe it will sit lower than the cell would. Can easily build a skid plate for the cell.

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So... That probably won't work. The cell under the bed would require about 1.5" of frame notch between the rails. 28 7/8" between the rails, cell is about 30 1/8, but would cut the opening to 30 1/4 to fit the cell.

That's not the problem. I measured the cell to the filler cap and it's just under 11". That would put the cell 4" below the frame which is not gonna work. I may just go with the b2 tank after all. Could run nylon line with those barbed fittings to fit back to factory lines, but would have to figure out a fuel pump and regulator setup as the 2001 pump assembly is much larger than b2 tank opening

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Old 04-13-2018, 03:15 PM   #1005 (permalink)
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what are the measurements on the area where you are thinking of putting the fuel cell? would mid 90s truck tank fit as the fuel pump would work just fine for running your 302. can by a new tank on rock auto for $60 and its steel so can notch and weld back up if needed. not sure if you can trim the fuel cell to fit in the frame as i trimming the frame would not be my first choice
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Old 04-13-2018, 11:18 PM   #1006 (permalink)
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what are the measurements on the area where you are thinking of putting the fuel cell? would mid 90s truck tank fit as the fuel pump would work just fine for running your 302. can by a new tank on rock auto for $60 and its steel so can notch and weld back up if needed. not sure if you can trim the fuel cell to fit in the frame as i trimming the frame would not be my first choice
28 7/8" Width, 15" length.

I'm just going to put the damn thing in the bed and call it good. I wanted to run it more like a prerunner tank, where it is at the very back of the truck under the bed, but it's going to hand way too low. Just going to put it in the bed right behind the cab. I had the battery mounted there first, I'm going to move that to inside the truck behind the passenger seat, and leave the cell in the back.

Haven't figured out if I am going to go with the factory pump or something else. Likely something else on the rail. Found these awesome fittings on Jegs, so I'm linking them in case I go this route

JEGS Performance Products 103120: Fuel Injection Fitting Ford 5.0L | JEGS

JEGS Performance Products 103110: Fuel Injection Fitting Ford 5.0L | JEGS

JEGS Performance Products 103101: Fuel Injection Quick-Connect Fitting | JEGS


Nylon goodies

Dorman Products 800-055: Fuel Line Connector Kit 1991-03 Ford | JEGS

Dorman Products 800-191: NYLON FUEL LINE UNIONS - 5/16 IN. | JEGS

Dorman Products 492-032.1: Fuel Line Union 5/16" to 5/16" Nylon Tubing | JEGS

Dorman Products 800-071: Nylon Fuel Line Tubing Size: 5/16" | JEGS

AN to Barb adapters

Vibrant Performance 11215: AN to Hose Barb Adapter Fitting -06 AN Female | JEGS

JEGS Performance Products 110848: AN Female to Hose Barb Adapter -6AN Female to 5/16 in. ID Hose | JEGS
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Old 04-13-2018, 11:30 PM   #1007 (permalink)
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also just found genright makes a bad ass fuel pump ring, but it is 199 bucks, so I am thinking of going with an on the rail style pump and aftermarket regulator. This would allow for other opportunities in the future should the powerplant change, but I'm still brainstorming all this stuff right now. 1st weekend in May is when everything will get serious again about the truck. right now is piddling with things and trying to get all the parts here I want to go with

Thanks for reading along, sorry it hasn't been a visually appealing story recently
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Old 04-14-2018, 07:25 AM   #1008 (permalink)
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In my truck thatís exactly what I did. I put this tank

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-290108

Between the rails behind the axle. Sure it hangs down but itís covered in 1/4Ē plate and honestly all the crawling has yet to get hit. So Iím your intended usage Iíd feel fine with it there.

Pump your talking about an e2000. Found on late 80ís fords on drivers side frame rail. I burned one up with this setup rather quickly. The tank was too low to gravity feed and burned up in the first 90 Miles. Plus it was loud.

I went with an intank pump a walbro gsl392 with walbro in tank pickups in the corners with submersible hose. I documented it in my build thread in great detail. Also I had the return plumbed into the bottom of the tank. This took out an intank pump. I moved the fitting to the top and that seems to have solved this issue. Although I know have a spare pump plumbed in with a couple ball valves so I can swap over to back up pump without tools in a few minutes.

What I would do now? Iíd build my own cell with an in tank pump. Two of my buddies have done this and it wasnít hard just pressure check it. Goat built sells a ring to run gm sending unit and pump.

Plan b Iíd try to find and oem tank that fit. Maybe s car? I know the Toyota guys
Run ford tanks in that same location. My dad had a shortbed 96 f150 and the tank was the one their talking about and the pump sat in at an angle. Their like $60 new on amazon.


Hereís that thread.

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyot...nk-toyota.html

I think your mind fucking this to death.
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Old 04-14-2018, 07:53 AM   #1009 (permalink)
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In my truck thatís exactly what I did. I put this tank

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-290108

Between the rails behind the axle. Sure it hangs down but itís covered in 1/4Ē plate and honestly all the crawling has yet to get hit. So Iím your intended usage Iíd feel fine with it there.

Pump your talking about an e2000. Found on late 80ís fords on drivers side frame rail. I burned one up with this setup rather quickly. The tank was too low to gravity feed and burned up in the first 90 Miles. Plus it was loud.

I went with an intank pump a walbro gsl392 with walbro in tank pickups in the corners with submersible hose. I documented it in my build thread in great detail. Also I had the return plumbed into the bottom of the tank. This took out an intank pump. I moved the fitting to the top and that seems to have solved this issue. Although I know have a spare pump plumbed in with a couple ball valves so I can swap over to back up pump without tools in a few minutes.

What I would do now? Iíd build my own cell with an in tank pump. Two of my buddies have done this and it wasnít hard just pressure check it. Goat built sells a ring to run gm sending unit and pump.

Plan b Iíd try to find and oem tank that fit. Maybe s car? I know the Toyota guys
Run ford tanks in that same location. My dad had a shortbed 96 f150 and the tank was the one their talking about and the pump sat in at an angle. Their like $60 new on amazon.


Hereís that thread.

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyot...nk-toyota.html

I think your mind fucking this to death.
Thanks man, I really appreciate all the info. I knew someone would finally tell me to stop over thinking this shit. I'll go research in your thread and in that ford tank in the yota thread. If I have any other questions about your setup, I'll annoy you via messages or something. :Beer:
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Old 04-14-2018, 10:59 AM   #1010 (permalink)
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@RANGERROD how many miles do you get out of your fuel tank? We are basically running the same setup, that plastic tank is 1 gallon smaller than my RCI, so I think I am just going to run the RCI in the bed. Just don't want to run that expensive ass braided line for AN lines, so I think i can run an AN to barb adapter fitting, and then nylon line to the factory style fuel filter, then nylon up to the factory tie ins for the 5.0

Yep. I think that is now the plan. My buddy said he thinks he has an external pump from his EFI setup on his chevelle, so I'll run that until it fails, and do a setup like you did.

Does yours have foam inside the cell or does it just slosh all around in there?
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Old 04-14-2018, 11:36 AM   #1011 (permalink)
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@RANGERROD how many miles do you get out of your fuel tank? We are basically running the same setup, that plastic tank is 1 gallon smaller than my RCI, so I think I am just going to run the RCI in the bed. Just don't want to run that expensive ass braided line for AN lines, so I think i can run an AN to barb adapter fitting, and then nylon line to the factory style fuel filter, then nylon up to the factory tie ins for the 5.0

Yep. I think that is now the plan. My buddy said he thinks he has an external pump from his EFI setup on his chevelle, so I'll run that until it fails, and do a setup like you did.

Does yours have foam inside the cell or does it just slosh all around in there?
I took the foam out it had disintegrated in like a year. My buddy who races and they are required to use it says he pulls it out after every season and can get 3-5 seasons out it.

The submersible fuel line is good last time I was in there was good 5 years of sitting in fuel. It’s expensive.

If you go external pump carry a spare my jeep and ranger both killed external fuel pumps. Buddies of mine have no problem but I kill them within a 100 Miles. Ford got away with it because they had a lift pump in the tank. I think if you do put the fuel cell in the bed it would be fine since it’s gravity feed in any position.

But imagine having the cell in the bed with shit stacked on it trying to fill it. I think you should do it right do it once. This will be a camping vehicle and overland from your last description of use. Keep the bed space.

But I think your plan would probably work.
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Old 04-14-2018, 11:42 AM   #1012 (permalink)
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I took the foam out it had disintegrated in like a year. My buddy who races and they are required to use it says he pulls it out after every season and can get 3-5 seasons out it.

The submersible fuel line is good last time I was in there was good 5 years of sitting in fuel. Itís expensive.

If you go external pump carry a spare my jeep and ranger both killed external fuel pumps. Buddies of mine have no problem but I kill them within a 100 Miles. Ford got away with it because they had a lift pump in the tank. I think if you do put the fuel cell in the bed it would be fine since itís gravity feed in any position.

But imagine having the cell in the bed with shit stacked on it trying to fill it. I think you should do it right do it once. This will be a camping vehicle and overland from your last description of use. Keep the bed space.

But I think your plan would probably work.
Here is where I'm putting it. Still use the majoirty of the bed, just as if I had a tool box. I may still do a tool box and just cut the center of it out on bottom to slide over the cell, then I could keep straps and shit next to the cell inside the tool box. My only "concern" with it here is vent. I will run the vent up to the top of the bed, and over to the top of the passenger side bed rail.

Also, it will definitely be doing more than camping now that I've spent all this fucking time on a 3 link and redoing the rear. Will it be going through trails that guarantee body damage? Doubtful. Will it be doing Moab and Rubicon again? Fuck yes it will.

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Old 04-14-2018, 04:05 PM   #1013 (permalink)
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Canít wait till itís dented on the first trip.
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Old 04-14-2018, 07:08 PM   #1014 (permalink)
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Canít wait till itís dented on the first trip.
I accidentally dented it and chipped the paint already. So I said fuck it. Haha

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Old 04-14-2018, 07:17 PM   #1015 (permalink)
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Today I got the 1500 leaf springs in and all the sudden all my rear alignment problems were solved. I don't know if I jacked up the old pack or what, but everything is back in line and it sits a little higher. I'd like to bring it down about an inch, so I'll see if I can find a 1" block.

Also found out that the rear cross member was the problem with the bent frame. I cut it out, and replaced it with some left over 2" tubing I had from the explorer cage. This will allow me to still run the bumper to the factory mounting location, so hopefully the placement was good. It's right between the leaf spring mounts to bring the rigidity back to the rear end.



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Old 04-14-2018, 10:14 PM   #1016 (permalink)
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Iíd run it those springs will sag.
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Old 04-14-2018, 11:06 PM   #1017 (permalink)
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Iíd run it those springs will sag.
I mean, they weren't new when I pulled them out of the junkyard... Haha. I either need to buy new u bolts or a smaller block.

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Old 04-16-2018, 08:15 AM   #1018 (permalink)
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fuel cell looks good in the box, be easy to mount a basket or rack above it to hold cooler or jerry cans. id be looking for some smaller and better blocks for the back as those ones dont even look the same length as the spring perch
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Old 04-16-2018, 05:53 PM   #1019 (permalink)
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fuel cell looks good in the box, be easy to mount a basket or rack above it to hold cooler or jerry cans. id be looking for some smaller and better blocks for the back as those ones dont even look the same length as the spring perch
Thanks bud. I like the way it looks in the bed too, and doesn't take up much room at all.

As for the blocks, they are factory ranger blocks, I just cut the triangle looking thing off that comes on them from the factory. As for them being a different size than the perches, that is because the perches are RuffStuff ones that are longer than factory.

Bray, if you're watching, how much would you charge to make a set of custom blocks out of aluminum?
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Old 08-13-2018, 03:16 PM   #1020 (permalink)
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been a while again. I've slowly been tinkering a little here and there on the truck. I moved the batter and rerouted the power wire to behind the passenger seat and have been saving up the money to buy all the fuel system, and finally pulled the trigger on that. Tylor over at Kartek Off-Road has been a HUGE help. This is my first custom fuel system and I wanted it to be able to support both the 5.0 and an LS in the future, so I wanted good parts, and as we all know, good parts ain't cheap.

I went with the following:

Pierburg 7.21659.72.0 Insulated Electric Fuel Injection Fuel Pump
Aeromotive A1000 Injected Bypass Regulator
Russell Performance 650133 Billet Aluminum 40 Micron Fuel Filter
JEGS Pro-Flo 350 Braided Hose -6AN

I'm going to do -6 from the pump to the fuel rail, and -8 from the tank to the pump. I will also be installing a Holley Hydramat, just ran out of money to order that too. I'll pick it up in the next few weeks.

The customer service at Kartek has been outstanding. Since this is my first setup ever using AN fittings and braided hose, I had a ton of questions about adapters and fittings. Tylor has answered all my questions, and is putting together a list of part numbers for all the adapters I will need. Its great to see companies in this industry still helping out the newbies and answering questions rather than being a dick. I'll be using them in the future for sure.


Along with that, I gotta give another shout out to Limitless Fabrication (Bray D's company). He does some AWESOME work in his machine shop and built me these bitchin lift blocks out of a solid chunk of aluminum with a pressed in steel pin. They are exactly what I wanted for the rear of this truck.



One of the other big hurdles I've been dealing with is the 2 piece driveshaft. I was having a tough time figuring out how I wanted to do this, and finally put it all together. I used 2" .0120 wall square tube as a crossmember for the carrier bearing, because it needs a flat surface for the bushing portion to sit against. Also, there is already a cross member that the factory carrier bearing aligned to, but my drivetrain is hanging way too low to use that, so I had to cut the square tubing to fit to the cross member, because the exhaust prevented me from going any lower

I ended up using some scrap 1" tubing with some sholdered nuts welded in so it was flat





Then I cut the excess off the 1" tubes and capped them off




Then I built a little mock up drive shaft and put it in. And my welds are still really ugly, but they penetrated good.


Here you can see how I went above the exhaust and welded to the crossmember Ford installed.


Last thing I did was build another mock up shaft and installed it



Before it was a 43ish inch long 1 piece drive shaft that hung down like a fucking kickstand begging to be destroyed. because it was so long, the diameter of the tube had to be larger as well, so it was seriously like a boat anchor. For those that don't remember, I twisted 2 driveshafts in half on the rubicon

In these pictures you can kinda see how low it used to hang



Anyway, now the rear shaft is only 16" long and has a much steeper angle. While this may affect the travel in the rear due to u-joint bind, I don't think it will out travel the shocks, since they are only 10" shocks.

This weekend I'll start peicing together a front driveshaft to use as a mock up to get it back to 4wd and may start working on the fuel system.
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The never-ending project

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An old Explorer with a lot of dents
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Old 08-13-2018, 06:27 PM   #1021 (permalink)
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Nice update! I didn't know BrayD has a fab company. My driveshaft is longer and it has not caused me issues yet. I guess I just don't wheel enough lol
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Old 08-14-2018, 06:37 AM   #1022 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grunizzle View Post
Nice update! I didn't know BrayD has a fab company. My driveshaft is longer and it has not caused me issues yet. I guess I just don't wheel enough lol
Thanks dude. Yep, follow him on IG, I think it is limitlessfab all one word. Something like that.

As for not causing you any issues, that is awesome! I didn't have any issues in San Diego or Moab, but as soon as we went to the rubicon it just got the shit beat out of it. The Explorer driveshaft takes a beating too, so I think i just suck at driving. haha
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An old Explorer with a lot of dents
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Old 08-20-2018, 07:27 AM   #1023 (permalink)
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Not too long ago when I was replacing the rear leaf springs in the truck, I noticed the frame was twisted so I added a round 2" crossmember between the rear leaf spring mounts.


While this worked by getting the frame rails situated again, it also was ugly as shit and if I ever wanted to mount anything under the back portion of the bed it was useless.

So this weekend I decided to change it. First i had to chop off these useless little ears off the back of the frame




Now with more room for activities, I wanted to put this in


I wanted this new piece to be tough as well as functional because I plan to add a hitch receiver to it, so I picked up 4 feet of 2x3 0.25 wall tubing. The frame width is only 32", so I should have just bought 3 feet, but it works.



After massaging the frame a little, added some boogers to hold it on and wahlah!


Then I cut out the round tube and am much happier with how this looks.

I also picked up the metal to build my fuel tank straps, but I didn't do those yet.
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An old Explorer with a lot of dents
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Old 08-23-2018, 07:42 AM   #1024 (permalink)
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Last night i made my fuel cell straps out of some thin sheet metal.





I don't have a break, so I just used my bench vise. the first one I bent one end a little off 90*, so it is a wee bit tweaked, but hell with it. Good enough. I wasn't happy with how flimbsy it is, my mistake for buying too thin of a sheet, so dimple die it is. Started by marking centerline, and cross hatches where i wanted the dimples to lie.





I offset the vertical straps closer to the bottom to have more surface of the strap at the corner. I dunno if this will help anything, just sounded like a good idea. I'm sure it will be shit, but hell with it.



On the top, I started to do the same thing, but didn't like it, so I went from the center out to the ends measuring every 2.5"





drilled the holes with 3/4" hole saw and used my press to make all the dimples





You can see in the bottom pic where this is the one that was tweaked a little



2nd one was much better thanks to my little protractor making sure before I bent anything, it was at 90*





threw a skim coat over them and called it a night.





I'll be using rivnuts in the bed with allen screws to fasten the cell down and some friction tape on the inside of the straps and bottom of the cell to hopefully keep the metals from rubbing against each other.
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An old Explorer with a lot of dents

Last edited by Josh40601; 08-24-2018 at 07:27 AM.
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Old 08-24-2018, 07:26 AM   #1025 (permalink)
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A friend of mine is going to come over this weekend and help with the fuel lines since I have no idea what I am doing, and I don't have and DC driveshaft parts to redo the rear shaft or the front shaft, and the fuel tank straps needed another coat of paint, so I started mocking up the rear bumper.











a friend of mine cut these templates out a long time ago, and i never got around to installing them. He sold his ranger a long time ago too, so I finished 1 bumper and installed on another friend's truck, and never finished the one for my truck. When we originally designed them, we wanted a step to the bumper similar to a factory bumper, which is why it sticks out so far. We knew there was going to be a little trimming needed, but not much.



This is what the bumper was originally designed to look like









And what it looks like all finished up





for my truck, I don't want it to stick out so far, which is why it has taken so long to work on it because i couldn't decide what i wanted. I now have the vision and am going to get it all cut down and fitted up over the next couple of days. I'm going to cut out all the way to the red line below, to really suck the bumper up under the truck. I'm not going to make it any smaller vertically, but i will put a skid plate on the bottom to help it slide over things. Also the license plate will be on a hinge and the hitch will be hidden behind it.



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An old Explorer with a lot of dents

Last edited by Josh40601; 08-24-2018 at 07:29 AM.
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