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Old 08-04-2011, 10:49 PM   #1 (permalink)
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79 Bronco 05+Superduty Tons

Introductions first



79 bronco
-400m, c6, 205, 44, 9"
-crappy 4" springs and drop brackets
-Tbi
-Hefty Fabrication prototype bumper
-Shittybilt 10k
-Dodge neon seats


before cleaning up the wiring.

Found these on Cl for $600








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Old 08-04-2011, 10:59 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Cut up old brackets



Put them back on there to hold the crossmember in.





Painted the 60. 8 megapixel camera my ass







I love having access to a full machine shop


Decided to have a jointed top link for adjustability, so I ordered 2 more



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Old 08-04-2011, 11:02 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Gave the plasma a workout. Took me all day but they turned out well I think





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Old 08-04-2011, 11:06 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Right now i'm figuring out plumbing for the brakes.
M/C is from an 02 lightning, 4 wheel disk brakes.





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Old 08-04-2011, 11:11 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Track bar stuff, using 1.5" .25 wall dom



Had to press this janky ass trackbar balljoint out



So that's where i'm at at the moment.

The r/a main tube is 2" .25 wall dom, ruffstuff cryo'd and heat treated 1.25" heims.

I'm a broke college student so i'll be using some bald 37" toyos till I can get my hands on some gears and 42's.
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Old 08-05-2011, 01:42 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I need this part. I work at advance and can't get it and the guys at the ford dealership don't know what i'm talking about.


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Old 08-05-2011, 09:35 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I like this build. Same axles im runnin. Does that 60 have two different lockouts on it? One gray, one red?
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Old 08-05-2011, 11:36 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I like this build. Same axles im runnin. Does that 60 have two different lockouts on it? One gray, one red?
Yeah, when i was painting everything else I thought that they were supposed to be red like the old 44.

Being color blind, I thought the lockout was pink so I painted it. I tell people its a throwback to the 70's
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Old 08-05-2011, 04:10 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Isn't that piece on the M/C the valve that holds slight pressure for the rear drums? I remember years ago pulling it off and hollowing it out when I switched to rear discs.
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Old 08-09-2011, 11:43 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Finally went to the j/y and got one of these because the parts guys at the ford dealership are idiots and didn't know about a part used on their trucks for 10 years.



I gutted it out because i'm using 2005 sd axles with rear disks. Dual piston calipers and 14" rotors.

and then I started to gut the stock 79 bronco combination valve. I could only get #1 out. It looks like the bolt that takes #2 out is not actually a bolt and I cant get it out (at least I haven't tried hard enough to strip it out until I found out if it could come out)



So where i'm at now is I have no limitation on the fluid going to the rear, and some limitation on the front by the factory combination valve.
My question is.....I could just take the lines directly from the m/c to the front and rear axles without a combination or prop valve? What was the purpose of having both going to a single point before distributed to the axles?

If I had a failure from one cylinder of the m/c I would still have brakes on either the front or the rear, which is the whole purpose of the two chamber master cylinder. Right?

Am I just completely off here?

Also, I have an 02 lightning m/c, will that push enough fluid for the dual piston calipers?
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Old 08-16-2011, 10:57 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Finally sitting on the ground. We put it down to measure for the track bar. We'll be welding on the bushing and heim in the morning. Then pulling out the axle, finish welding in the coil buckets, drag link, track bar, track bar axle bracket and some other stuff.

Reinstall everything, loctite and torque down all of the bolts, put the brake lines together and move to the back.

I ordered u-bolts and spring plates from the ford dealership, not only were the only ones that could get them within the week but they were the cheapest. That surprised me.







Putting on the 37's tomorrow too.
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Old 08-16-2011, 11:11 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Pretty COOL.....$600 smackers for both! I'm fairly certain that I have over $3500 in my front D60Sure the RCV's are 70% of that figure. You could afford all kinds of bling @ your initial cost. Well Played my good man.
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Old 08-17-2011, 01:20 PM   #13 (permalink)
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good to see you over here fellow fsber
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Old 08-17-2011, 03:02 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I missed this thread when you initially posted it up 2 weeks ago; looks pretty good for a budget build. Not too many folks running late model axles yet, and it sounds like you got a screaming deal on them.

Is that thing up here in C.S. at the moment? If that's where you're working on it, then I agree, the Ford dealership here is terrible. I used to order stuff from them for my old boss, just to come in 4 days later to an idiot employee saying "I'm sorry, we forgot to put your order through."
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Old 08-18-2011, 12:32 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Yeah it's in College Station. I was taking summer classes so I spent all summer outside of work and school working on this.

It's on the south side of town, near the new holleman road extension across 2818.

I work at advance on Harvey.



Set down after final weld up.



Ended up at about 6" of lift. I think around 4" is perfect on these broncos. I would like to lower it a little bit but i'll see how I like it at this height.

Got a good deal on some 37" Toyo Open Country's. So those will be on later this week.
I'll put it on the rti ramp tomorrow and see how it flexes.

It started out as a budget build but I have dumped so much money into this swap. I guess that's how it always works but I figure i'm at a bout $2000 total.

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Old 08-18-2011, 02:52 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tdmayfieldiv View Post
Finally went to the j/y and got one of these because the parts guys at the ford dealership are idiots and didn't know about a part used on their trucks for 10 years.



and then I started to gut the stock 79 bronco combination valve. I could only get #1 out. It looks like the bolt that takes #2 out is not actually a bolt and I cant get it out (at least I haven't tried hard enough to strip it out until I found out if it could come out)



So where i'm at now is I have no limitation on the fluid going to the rear, and some limitation on the front by the factory combination valve.
My question is.....I could just take the lines directly from the m/c to the front and rear axles without a combination or prop valve? What was the purpose of having both going to a single point before distributed to the axles?

If I had a failure from one cylinder of the m/c I would still have brakes on either the front or the rear, which is the whole purpose of the two chamber master cylinder. Right?

Am I just completely off here?

Also, I have an 02 lightning m/c, will that push enough fluid for the dual piston calipers?


The combination valve prevents a pressure disparity between the two circuits. There is a valve, known as a "shuttle valve" that is forced by a pressure disparity and closes off the low pressure circuit. This allows you to still have brakes if you lose one circuit. A dual master cylinder has no safety advantage over a single without this valve.

My guess is you were bleeding the brakes (starting at the farthest wheel from the master) and triggered the valve to shut off the front wheels. Valve 2 usually has a spot on the outside where you can pin the shuttle valve for bleeding purposes. It could also be the case that your factory valve has bad seals in it.
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Last edited by FordFascist; 08-18-2011 at 02:53 PM.
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Old 08-21-2011, 05:51 PM   #17 (permalink)
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A salute to the 9". Never let me down until I really needed it. This thing is toast. The only good things left are the gears and shafts.






The stock shock tabs are held on with u bolts. I don't want that crap so I'm going to weld on some conventional shock tabs tonight.

The driveshaft will have to be shortened 3 or 4 inches.

Where the fuck do I get the yoke for this flange? I have never seen these on a sterling before. I have googled but I don't really know what to call it.
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Old 08-21-2011, 06:22 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I am doing pretty much the exact same suspension setup on my Tundra. Looks good and simple. What size wheels are you running?
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Old 08-21-2011, 06:26 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Crager soft 8's
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Old 08-21-2011, 07:04 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Crager soft 8's
What size though?
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Old 08-21-2011, 07:05 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Oh my bad. 17x9
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Old 08-21-2011, 08:33 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Got any good shots of the lower coil buckets? Or did you use the factory mounts?
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Old 08-21-2011, 10:33 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Where the fuck do I get the yoke for this flange? I have never seen these on a sterling before. I have googled but I don't really know what to call it.

Couple options. You can get a standard yoke of an earlier axle 94 or newer I think or you can get a flange that will bolt up from Randys. You may need a 1330/1350 combo joint or if your shortening the driveshaft anyway you could get a 1350 weld yoke. The oem flange for that axle is 1410, fyi
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Old 08-21-2011, 11:56 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Yeah it's in College Station. I was taking summer classes so I spent all summer outside of work and school working on this.

It's on the south side of town, near the new holleman road extension across 2818.

I work at advance on Harvey.

Ended up at about 6" of lift. I think around 4" is perfect on these broncos. I would like to lower it a little bit but i'll see how I like it at this height.

Got a good deal on some 37" Toyo Open Country's. So those will be on later this week.
I'll put it on the rti ramp tomorrow and see how it flexes.

It started out as a budget build but I have dumped so much money into this swap. I guess that's how it always works but I figure i'm at a bout $2000 total.
Right on. My old boss lives just down the road from where your Bronco is at. I'll probably be dropping by Advance in a day or two to order myself a flywheel ring gear, as mine's stripped out. Maybe meet you then.
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Old 08-22-2011, 09:36 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Cool build. Very much liking the budget-minded strategy.
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