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Old 10-25-2011, 09:33 PM   #1 (permalink)
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14 bolt front. Seals it VS. Crane!

IN THIS CORNER!!!!

Seals it.

http://www.sealsit.com/axlehub.asp

And all the way from Commerce City, CO!

Saying hello to Clearance....

http://www.cranehiclearance.com/crane_017.htm

What works best for a front 14 bolt application?
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Old 10-25-2011, 10:00 PM   #2 (permalink)
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no experience with both but from simply looking at them the seals it looks to have dual lips on the seal which you would think make it less likely to leak then one lip, then the crane seal looks to be secured better being held in by the adjuster nuts.
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Old 10-26-2011, 08:07 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Old 10-26-2011, 10:00 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I'm building 2 14 fronts right now and am going through the same debate
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Old 10-26-2011, 12:12 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I'm running prototype Crane "Revolution" seals in a rear 14 bolt with Spidertrax outers and they work just like they should....No leaks. Spidertrax made the shafts. We had them made so the part of the shaft where the seal rides is a larger diameter than the rest of the shaft and it needs to be polished or at least very smooth.
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Old 10-26-2011, 12:24 PM   #6 (permalink)
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i dont have any experiance with them but the trail gear units for thier 9" rockassult housings look hard to beat for $27 each. spidr is using them on his junkyard 569 axle. maybe he can shed some light.
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Old 10-26-2011, 01:15 PM   #7 (permalink)
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The trail gear ones look kind of like the sealsit seals, but way cheaper, down side is that there aren't as many sizes available though. Don't take my advice on them though, I just dove in and chose the cheaper/quickest option since my diff is an experiment. The double lip is definetly cool though, and they seem to have a ton of give in them.
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Old 01-12-2012, 09:16 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Any real world updates on this topic? I need to make a decision soon.
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Old 01-13-2012, 06:54 PM   #9 (permalink)
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The Crane seal carrier is the way to go!
We have used both.
The Crane system puts the seal where it needs to be, the most stationary part of the axle shaft. The axle shaft is captured in the splines of the diff. It uses a std. off the shelf axle seal (so if it needs to be replaced, its easier to get).

The problem we've had with seals it seals for a 14 bolt tube is nothing seamed to fit "good". We smothered them with black silicone and they did quit leaking.
If we had to take them out today I would dread it cause of the mess of driving a siliconed aluminum seal housing out to replace a seal. Or to find out it wasnt a seal leaking but the o-rings on the outside of the seal housing.
Just my .02 worth
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Old 01-13-2012, 11:48 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Wide Open nailed it!
Crane puts a "standard" seal in the "right" spot and it's really easy to replace when needed.
That's 3 very important points that the other seal does not offer!
Seems like a no brainer to me.
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Old 08-05-2016, 12:08 PM   #11 (permalink)
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so i have a 14b front ive been running yukon shafts with crane revolution 14b seals at the diff for about 4 years, i just ordered some 300m rcv shafts and they do not have a seal surface area on the inner shafts and i was told by RCV to run seals it.

the crane revolution seal housing takes a standard d60 inner axle seal, is there some other seal that i can put inside the crane seal housing or do i have to just buy seals it insert thingy and put it in the axle tube? does it go at the end of the axle tube or inside near the diff?


those of you that are running 14b front axles with RCV shafts what seals are you using and how/where do they go?
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Old 11-04-2016, 07:10 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I have crane revolution seals front and rear in 14 bolt 40 spline flavor.

Just filled my diffs with gear oil and didn't even drive it and come back in the morning and there is gear oil all over the floor

I'm ordering some seals-it seals!!!!!!!!!!!!

The problem with the crane seals is that it is on the side adjusters. To even get to them to look to see what the problem is the carrier has to be removed which on front usually means removing the steering ram.

The major flaw I see with them is the pipe dope on the threads. Mine were very sloppy in the housing splines when dry fit. Then you have to pipe dope them up and screw them in and basically back them off to get carrier preload which takes your chances of a good seal to almost nothing on the one side. Mine are both leaking on one side that this was done.
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Old 11-07-2016, 02:51 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I'm sorry you are encountering a problem sealing your axle. I believe we spoke on the phone and I gave you a few options of things to check that could be wrong.
We have built many axles and seen many mistakes. Not saying you did anything wrong, but things need to be checked.

1) Splines could be too long and riding in the seal. This happens a lot.
2) The seal surface diameter could be too small or not long enough. It is different side to side on a 14 bolt.
3) The spring could have been knocked out of the seal when installing the shaft. It happens, believe me.
4) Not enough thread sealant was used on the o.d. threads. We supply plenty with the kits.


We use these seals on every 14 Bolt axle we build. We do not have leak issues.
That being said, we call out to the axle manufacturer where to put the seal land. the seal surface diameter and length of spline.

We ran seals-it seals before the REV-14's were invented and ran into many sealing issues. The axle still have to be torn down the repair them and the parts were never readily available.
The seal location of the REV-14 is ideal, being closest to the differential. The axle shaft is most stable and moves less there.

We are here to help with any issues you find.


Quote:
Originally Posted by 91blaze View Post
I have crane revolution seals front and rear in 14 bolt 40 spline flavor.

Just filled my diffs with gear oil and didn't even drive it and come back in the morning and there is gear oil all over the floor

I'm ordering some seals-it seals!!!!!!!!!!!!

The problem with the crane seals is that it is on the side adjusters. To even get to them to look to see what the problem is the carrier has to be removed which on front usually means removing the steering ram.

The major flaw I see with them is the pipe dope on the threads. Mine were very sloppy in the housing splines when dry fit. Then you have to pipe dope them up and screw them in and basically back them off to get carrier preload which takes your chances of a good seal to almost nothing on the one side. Mine are both leaking on one side that this was done.
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Old 11-08-2016, 06:31 AM   #14 (permalink)
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I checked it all - it's all right and only leaking on the side that the adjuster was used to preload the carrier bearings. the thread sealant gets wiped off the threads on that side by adjusting it in then back out.

When dry installing them the threads are very loose unlike the factory adjusters.

Seals-it ones are coming and will serve as a backup to these expensive ones.
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Old 11-08-2016, 09:48 AM   #15 (permalink)
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I am currently building a 14 bolt. I am doing both, How ever I made my own seal holders on the lathe for next to nothing, even if you had a machine shop cut the pieces for you it would be cheap.



we cut the slugs out of 3/8 steel to just a light friction fit into the adjuster as to not expand them at all, put some retaining compound on them then pressed in and silicone the backside. They work really well, Mine are for custom shafts we home made and different seals so you may have to use different thickness but you get the idea
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Old 11-08-2016, 09:11 PM   #16 (permalink)
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The front I put together for this buggy uses the Crane REVOLUTION 14 Seal retainers, nice product and I like them more than the Seals it option; making your own is not that tough from the factory collars but that's your own call.







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Old 10-15-2019, 10:13 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Any more feedback on success or failures on an old but still important 14 bolt sealing problem?

I'm making the debate right now... lot of pro's and con's of each...
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Old 10-16-2019, 08:13 AM   #18 (permalink)
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I have made quite a few 14 Front's and I have always put in the standard 60 seal with good results.
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Old 10-16-2019, 09:10 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Any more feedback on success or failures on an old but still important 14 bolt sealing problem?

I'm making the debate right now... lot of pro's and con's of each...
I am using 2 seals-it economy seals per side.

One close to the diff and one next to the C.
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Old 10-16-2019, 03:56 PM   #20 (permalink)
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I am using 2 seals-it economy seals per side.

One close to the diff and one next to the C.
Might be more beneficial to just run one seal at the diff or two right next to each other. If the inner seal fails but the outer holds up you will be running your gears dry or close to dry and won't know until they blow up.
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Old 10-17-2019, 07:00 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Might be more beneficial to just run one seal at the diff or two right next to each other. If the inner seal fails but the outer holds up you will be running your gears dry or close to dry and won't know until they blow up.
Good point.

Since the seal itself has 2 lips, I trust it not to leak from the inside.

The outside seals are here to keep the crap out of the tubes more than sealing the housing itself.

Hopefully, regular maintenance should let me know if the oil level is lower than planned.

Last edited by Bebop; 10-17-2019 at 08:48 PM.
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Old 10-17-2019, 06:45 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Good point.

Since the seal itself has 2 lips, I trust it not to leak from the inside.

The outside seals are hear to keep the crap out of the tubes more than sealing the housing itself.

Hopefully, regular maintenance should let me know if the oil level is lower than planned.
That's funny because after I posted I thought 'maybe that outer seal is just there to keep crap from going inside the tube'.
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Old 10-17-2019, 08:34 PM   #23 (permalink)
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All's good
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