Pirate 4x4 banner

Higher mileage LS engines

8K views 16 replies 13 participants last post by  dan58 
#1 · (Edited)
I'm searching for a Gen IV engine for an upcoming build to get the better heads and VVT, particularly an LY6. They aren't common in salvage yards around here, and of the ones that are in the yards, almost all are incomplete (cut/no harness, pcm, accessories). I don't want to deal with sourcing that stuff separately, because the cost adds up quick. Even worse, these yards seem know these Gen IV engines desirable in complete form and charge accordingly.

I found a yard in Connecticut that will sell me a complete engine from an 08 Suburban for the same price as what other local yards are selling bare long blocks for. Only catch, is it's got 149k on it.

What's the longevity like on these engines? Are there any problems that come at that kind of mileage? The guy said the engine is still in the truck (I wanted to come this weekend but he says they need a few days to pull it), starts and runs just fine. they do compression tests and leakdown tests on all their engines, and guarantee them for 6 months. That doesn't matter because it'll be longer than that before I can hit the start button on it anyway, but the yard seems to think that kind of mileage not an issue?

What says pirates? Anyone running high mileage pullout engines in buggies? My last engine (LQ4) had 74k on it when I pulled it from the yard, and everything looked fine inside (I pulled a main and rod bearing when I swapped the pan, and at the time had access to a bore scope to look in the cylinders). Am I asking for trouble with double the mileage?
 
See less See more
#2 · (Edited)
My old gto had 114k on the ls1 when I bought it. Ran it til 130k beating the Pisa out of it and then put heads and cam in it. Didn't have an oil pressure gauge and the oil pump went out and toasted the motor but other than that it was fine. Should have replaced the oil pump when I did the heads and cam anyway but didn't so I blame myself. Also it was living at 7k rpm from 130k-138k before the oil pump took a shit.

I'd say go for it and just check the timing chain and replace the oil pump. The motors themselves are pretty bulletproof.

Sent from my mobile encyclopedia of knowledge.
 
#4 ·
150k isn't really anything on these motors. Now that said I would pull the valve covers at least before buying it and see if they changed the oil regular. If it's pretty dirty and sludge up I would haggle the price down, or walk. But as mentioned the timing chain and pump are cheap insurance.

People are even buy high mileage motors and boosting the piss out of them. Should be fine. Ideally you would want to be-able to be covered by the warranty obviously.
 
#5 ·
I have had 3 tow rigs now with LS engines and the 2 I have sold were over 200k and still running strong one 4.8 and one 5.3. My current truck has a little over 190k now and has had 0 issues. The first one that I sold was the 4.8 truck, it had 215ish when I sold it to a friend he proceeded to put another 60k on it before he traded it in with no issues. All 3 were around 100k when I bought them with the current truck being the lowest at 92k. None needed any major drive train work other then basic maintenance. I am fairly anal about servicing and such though so I'm sure that helped. I never seviced at 3k intervals I always waited until the GM change oil light came on though. Usually between 4 and 5k. I figure if its good enough for the GM warranty department its good enough for me.

I probably just cursed myself with the current truck and it will lunch a motor in the next 10k miles now. :shaking:
 
#6 ·
OK thanks guys, sounds like it won't be a problem. Dave, I sent you a PM.

I used to work in warranty return inspection for MB, and we had a lot of sludge problems so I can almost smell how much sludge is in an engine just buy sniffing in the oil fill hole :laughing: I'll definitely be pulling a valve cover when I go tho pick it up though.

I just looked on GM parts direct, the pump oil pump is $70 so I'll probably throw one on when I swap the pan.

How about the VVT system, anything I need to inspect there? I'm not familiar with that system at all and the only info I can find is guys talking about phase limiters with cam swaps.
 
#7 · (Edited)
If you do the pump do the timing chain as well. You'll see when you get the cover off how loose it is although it does have a "tensioner." Your'll need a new crank pulley bolt as well as it one time use. the gaskets you can reuse if serviceable but I would just replace on the timing cover as its a pain if it leaks.

The 2010-up Gen IV V8 motors are all VVT. The Gen IV 6.0L/6.2L all have VVT. Make sure its the right pump as they have differences volume/flow wise for VVT/AFM. I would be more worried about the AFM. You could leave it and just run it. But it limits aftermarket cam choices lift wise. You have to remove the heads to change the 8 AFM lifters among other things associated with the system.

The cams swaps add more lift hence the need for a physical phase limiter to maintain piston to valve clearances if the phaser fails.
 
#13 · (Edited)
I have 40ish LS equipped trucks in my fleet. I've retired about 4 or 5 already well into the 250-300 range. At 250k under full load, run hard since day one, these things still perform well. I have found 300k+ Run hard, they start to make funny noises.
 
#14 ·
theres so many variables. the engine could have only 45k on it and the stupid owner may not have ever changed the oil. or have 250k on it and run like a dream theres always a slight risk buying a used engine.

i got a 4.3 in my offroad truck with 203k on it. best running vehicle i ever had
 
#16 · (Edited)
I did the same thing, everyone wanted high 2's to high 3's for a LY6 motor with 30-60k. I bought a complete LY6 out of a 2010 from a fleet maintained vehicle with 173k for $1150 shipped. I can tear it down, bore it, bearing it, do the heads and be on the road with a new motor for the same costs as the low mileage pullout.

I pulled the valley pan and the valve covers and was amazed at how clean it looked. I might even stuff a cam in it for the first year and see what it does.

I plan on running it a year and when I tear down for final powdercoat go through it, unless it runs so well I have no need to.

Worst case I blow it up.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top