I have been working the kinks out of my buggy build for well over a year now and the money required to complete it with all the custom parts on a prototype basis is to high so I am doing a redesign to see if I can get this on the trail.
Its basically a std rotation Honda 3.5 and Acura FWD transaxle placed backwards in frame with drivers offset diffs.
The New Plan
LS based powerplant, trying to find an L33 all aluminum 5.3/ 4l60E and some type of transfer case.
Here is what is needed in the case
Passenger Side drop
Must be able to clock flat has only about 12" of clearance under floorpan
Must be able to shift to F or R only because the rear axle with be running off the front output.
Ability to run Flanges on both outputs for HAD 42 degree CV's
I am concerned about the driveshaft angle that will be be caused from the center front output and offset front, see pics, but I think the CV and 1410 ujoints can handle it. Just for reference, distance from output to diff is 36" F+R and 14" offset. At full droop the height difference is 16" and compression 2", don't have software on home computer to determine angle. If its to high I will need to find a case with offset rear output.
Here are the rough drawings any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Just so you know, if you run a CV at one end and a 1410 running lets say 20 degrees at the other you will have terrible vibrations. If you intend to drive this over 20 mph your options are CV's at both ends or single joints at both ends.
Should..... But spec and $$ wise the lt230 is a better choice, assuming it can be adapted in for a reasonable cost as the Orion will also require adapters.
Depends on the clocking and whether or not you are going with a pillowblock. The NV fit it by a lot, but clocked down a decent amount I ran into clearance problems with the bulge for the starter on the bellhousing. I clocked it because of the tall output on the NV. I bet with a 4l80E it would not be much of an issue.
In AUS, the Lt230 is a fairly common and great option.
Here's some pics of mine behind a c4, with a c4 you can basically clock them flat. With a t700 you can't quite clock them flat due to the big pan on the autos, but can get them close to flat. Sorry I don't have any pics of a GM adapted one.
Few friends have them mated to t700's, I'll try to find a pic to show how clocked they can be.
Can I get some case dimensions on the LT230? Specifically length from mounting flange to back to main case and mounting flange to output flange. I also need a measurement from the center for the input shaft to the center of the outputs and then to the outside of the case. It really looks like I have enough room to stuff this under my seat but I just need to make sure.
I have a cable shifter for an Atlas, hopefully that can be adapted to shift this beast.
I'll get those measurements for you at some point today and post them up this evening.
I reckon you could adapt the cable shifter, otherwise air shifted is another possibility. The standard shifter that comes on the rovers is terrible, we twin stick them down here then you can 'unlock - lock' the centre diff lock, and 'high range - low range'.
My transfer cost me $150 and $650 for the adapter (built by a local company), for $800 I reckon it's a good cheap option. The reduction in high range with more option from ashcroft is great too!
lots of good info on the LT230 T-case. Does anyone have some pics or drawings of it's mating protocol?
Just a quick question for the OP. How is ditching a frontwheel drive engine / transaxle and going to an engine / transmission / transfercase going to save you money? I have always been under the impression that guys were running transaxles to save money and complexity......
The transaxle I chose has a closed differential, I have been told its not possible to weld it up and a custom R+P carrier would have to be made to lock it. On top of that I have heard this transaxle is riddled with problems that I recall was put out in order to bandaid the issue. I would also have to run dual driveshaft disconnects, the machining, splining, engineering bill was going to stack up fast.
Ah. Ok, fair enough. I just looked thru your build thread and didn't see any of that info (or really anything in the last year or so) about this change.
So what transaxles ARE good choices for cheap buggies?
Why not just adapt your 3.5 honda v6 to a th350-400? I know someone local to me that did it, in a trophylite truck and offered a kit complete with a starter/flywheel.... $1200 ish
Those are great little engines and after riding in his trophylite converted to honda power I was amazed at the power output stock.
as Buck said, low range is 3.32-1...Ashcroft make a bolt on under drive or you can buy lower range gear sets from M R Automotive (either 4.32-1 or 4.95-1)
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