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Old 06-01-2018, 08:29 AM   #476 (permalink)
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Still waiting for the front ring and pinion to get cryo'd by @66CJdean at Performance Cryogenics so went ahead and swapped the oil pan. The chassis is designed to fit the factory truck oil pan but it barely clears the skid. I had shimmed the skid down 1/4" to help with some breathing room but has always been a concern. After seeing a few recent guys kill oil pans I decided it is much easier to change now then deal with a broken pan later.

Changing the pan will also allow me to lower the drivetrain in preperation to re-tube the front half this winter for better visibility. I now have a touch over 2" clearance at the oil pan, 2" at the trans pan, and 1.625" at the converter/crossmember. Thinking of lowering it about 1" so keep a little breathing room.

The next step is to try a different exhaust manifold/header to gain clearance to the engine crossmember or re-build the crossmember. Will tackle that next.

The new oil pan is a champ pan made by JR Manufacturing. Same pan that Tilden and Autokraft rebadge. With ebay deals recently I am into the pan $376 shipped. Here are the P/Ns if anyone is interested:
Pan Champ LS1000
Pickup tube Champ 750LS1
Oil Filter adapter Champ LS1001



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Old 06-01-2018, 08:33 AM   #477 (permalink)
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Here are shots with the new oil pan. One concern was this pan is wider and driveshaft to oil accumulator adapter clearance but the picture at flex shows plenty of room still. The oil pan won't drop out of the engine crossmember so I cut it out and cut 1/2" out of it and made some flanges to make the crossmember removable. Didn't have my rivnut setter with me so will made a hose retainer bracket later to tidy up that hose and wire.






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Old 06-06-2018, 06:55 PM   #478 (permalink)
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I had a champ pan on my last build and have one for my current build. I was happy with how it held pressure on climbs. Good pan from my experience.

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Old 06-19-2018, 05:55 PM   #479 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MNorby View Post
Still waiting for the front ring and pinion to get cryo'd by @66CJdean at Performance Cryogenics so went ahead and swapped the oil pan. The chassis is designed to fit the factory truck oil pan but it barely clears the skid. I had shimmed the skid down 1/4" to help with some breathing room but has always been a concern. After seeing a few recent guys kill oil pans I decided it is much easier to change now then deal with a broken pan later.

Changing the pan will also allow me to lower the drivetrain in preperation to re-tube the front half this winter for better visibility. I now have a touch over 2" clearance at the oil pan, 2" at the trans pan, and 1.625" at the converter/crossmember. Thinking of lowering it about 1" so keep a little breathing room.

The next step is to try a different exhaust manifold/header to gain clearance to the engine crossmember or re-build the crossmember. Will tackle that next.

The new oil pan is a champ pan made by JR Manufacturing. Same pan that Tilden and Autokraft rebadge. With ebay deals recently I am into the pan $376 shipped. Here are the P/Ns if anyone is interested:
Pan Champ LS1000
Pickup tube Champ 750LS1
Oil Filter adapter Champ LS1001



I sure hope it got there by now!
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Old 06-19-2018, 05:57 PM   #480 (permalink)
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I sure hope it got there by now!
Got them Friday before last and installed last weekend and ready to go play again. Thank you.
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Old 07-05-2018, 02:49 PM   #481 (permalink)
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Slow day at work here, I just read all three of your builds, Blazer, S10, and buggy... I love how youve built them all on your trailer... I love the old square body grill on the buggy. Nice work
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Old 07-11-2018, 05:18 PM   #482 (permalink)
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Sorry to bring up a question from real early in the build, but I was wondering if you still had the specs/part numbers on the flexible radiator hoses you used in this pic. Iím having a hell of a time finding a lower hose that works well with the vortec water pump and the griffin...everything Iíve tried links at the water pump inlet.

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Old 07-11-2018, 07:13 PM   #483 (permalink)
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It's just a stainless universal radiator hose kit from eBay. They are cut to fit and use a rubber slave on each end to connect.
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Old 07-12-2018, 10:50 AM   #484 (permalink)
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Thank you, sir.
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Old 07-13-2018, 01:36 AM   #485 (permalink)
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Thank you, sir.
Just an fyi I did those as well in my build and ended up junking them. I just couldnt trust the build quality on the crazy thin bendy aluminum.
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Old 07-13-2018, 08:03 AM   #486 (permalink)
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Just an fyi I did those as well in my build and ended up junking them. I just couldnt trust the build quality on the crazy thin bendy aluminum.
Dangit...I've read both of your build threads (multiple times) and saw that you had both used them. After striking out with every Gates flex hose I've tried, I figured I'd ask.

What did you end up going with? I found a Gates flex hose that will probably be fine on the upper/outlet side, but it's not perfect. All of the ones on the lower/inlet side kink bad at the pump fitting. Yesterday I ordered one of these flexible stainless kits that should be long enough to make both hoses:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

While I'm here...thanks to both of you for documenting these builds so thoroughly. Got tons of good info from both of them and hope to have my 4 seat Ibex complete in the next few weeks.
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Old 07-13-2018, 03:03 PM   #487 (permalink)
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my upper hose is 2 sep 90's with a center piece that grabs coolant temp

lower hose is a 1 piece gates hose that I cut to fit.
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Old 07-13-2018, 04:30 PM   #488 (permalink)
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I haven't had any problems with the universal hoses but I didn't use the supplied clamps or hose pieces as they were pretty much garbage.
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Old 07-13-2018, 05:14 PM   #489 (permalink)
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my upper hose is 2 sep 90's with a center piece that grabs coolant temp

lower hose is a 1 piece gates hose that I cut to fit.
Yeah, with creative cutting and splicing of molded hoses, or silicone straight, 90's, and 45's, joined with beaded tubing in STR/45/90/L sections as needed you can fit almost anything. That's what I did on my race car.
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Old 07-15-2018, 09:23 AM   #490 (permalink)
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I just took a peace of wire and bent it to what I wanted, went to O'Reilly and dug through all their houses until I found preformed ones that had a section I wanted in the right sizes, and then trimmed off the end/sections I didn't want.
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Old 12-15-2018, 07:54 AM   #491 (permalink)
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Need to catch up on this. After doing the oil pan upgrade went and ran a tough truck deal up in Montana last summer.





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Old 12-15-2018, 08:07 AM   #492 (permalink)
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Participated in the 2018 Dakota Territory Challenge this summer also. I decided to try the 41.5 PBR radials instead of the BFGs thinking the extra diff clearance would be nice. It was until 2 tires got cut. The first was on an area known to kill tires so can't hardly blame the tire there. The second was the day after on a smooth rounded boulder, maybe that tire was damaged from the previous day and finally let loose there. Either was picked up another tire and will have the smaller cut tire repaired for a spare.

Broke the GoPro mount on the first day but kinda got a cool video of the trail Surprise. Surprise is a permit only trail only ran during the challenge. That was once of the reasons for participating in the challenge is to run a few trails I had ran years ago that are now closed and only allowed during this event. Didn't get many pictures either.






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Old 12-15-2018, 08:15 AM   #493 (permalink)
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After wheeling with some friends in South Dakota a few years ago I decided I needed rear steer. I sourced a ribbed 14 bolt housing, dually 60 hubs, dana 70 open Cs, and started building. First I machined the dually hubs into SRW hubs. Then shaved the housing and got the Cs to be press fit installed.







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Old 12-15-2018, 08:25 AM   #494 (permalink)
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I decided to offset the pinion about 3" so both the inner shafts would be the same length for a universal spare inner shaft. Also installed the steering in front of axle for added protection and used a 2.5x8 single ended cylinder for the extra power over the same size double ended cylinder. I picked up some alignment bar pucks to make sure I was getting everything straight. I ended up using my old front Artec arms with 8" between tierod and kingpin to get around 30 degrees steering since much more would be difficult to clear with the back seat. I also ended up using Solid knuckles to match the front setup. Built a truss with extra internal webbing to help support the steering and control arm forces all out of 3/16" material.

Also added a rear steer lockout in case I feel the need for a long road trip or rear hydraulic failure I could just swap the one pressure hose from the pump back to orbital and bypass all the rear plumbing if needed.




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Old 12-15-2018, 08:38 AM   #495 (permalink)
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I ended up going with 300M 30/35 spline RCV shafts. I al ready had the 30 spline 14 bolt ARB locker and since I put the Yukon locking hubs on the front I had a set of 35 spline drive flanges leftover. I debated these vs Branik shafts. Have heard of some trouble with RCVs but not many but also have a few friends running them even in the rear without complaints so at the end of the day these were cheaper and a warranty. I will get a inner ujoint shaft made for a spare and I already have front stub spares that will replace a rear shaft in case of failure.

I didn't want to have to change my control arm or driveline lengths so I knew the LCA mount on the chassis was going to have to be relocated to make that work. Cut the old ones off and mocked up the axle where it needed to be for the driveshaft to fit then lines up the LCAs to decide where the mounts needed to be installed. Then mocked up where the upper control arms needed to fit on the new axle and installed them.




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Old 12-15-2018, 08:46 AM   #496 (permalink)
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With about an 18" belly on 39s and 20" on the 41.5s I had about 8-9" uptravel on the shocks. I knew with the rear steer is was going to have some interference so when I built the truss I didn't work the UCA mounts low profile into the truss and just put them on top with the idea I would rework the chassis shock mounting to lessen the uptravel some. I cut the rear shock tubework out and rebuild the crossmember so be just above the fuel tank. I made a quick jig from some scrap to hole the crossmember at the proper height and started building. Its setup now for a 6-7" uptravel at same belly height. I also decided to change the tube profile on the rear to maybe try to make look less boxy. This brings the rig up to current and also have some work about to start on the front end in the next few weeks.





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Old 12-15-2018, 09:16 AM   #497 (permalink)
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Nice. Have fun with the Rear Steer. Looks awesome.
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Old 12-15-2018, 09:23 AM   #498 (permalink)
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Awesome job!
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Old 12-15-2018, 03:13 PM   #499 (permalink)
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Awesome job.
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Old 12-16-2018, 06:27 AM   #500 (permalink)
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Killer work as always!

Two questions:

1) what pressure were you running the PBRís at?
2) how are you powering your rear steering ram? (Dual pumps? Electric/hydraulic?)
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