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Axleshaft bolts keep coming loose

51K views 241 replies 77 participants last post by  Buck Wild Racing 
#1 ·
My searching was unsuccessful.

The rear axleshaft bolts were coming loose on my 14bolt during the Glen Helen Grad Prix. So I was wondering what do others do? Safety wire? The stock bolts or other? I know that the stock bolts are 1/2-13 x ~1.5" but it has a shoulder that's about a 1/4" long. I think the shoulder is something that needs to be kept.

We noticed that the bolts were coming loose, after practice we brake-cleaned the holes and the bolts and loc-tited the shit out of them. After the race they were not as tight (but not "loose").



What other solutions have others made?

Stock serrated under the flanged head bolts, stock 14bolt housing, stock shafts, spool, disc, 4.88's, 42's.
 
#3 · (Edited)
I have a similar problem and have what I hope to be a fix. Plan is to use socket head cap screws and turn a taper on the underside of the head. Then cut a taper on the hole of the axle shaft. This way it is similar to having a cone washer and shouldn't allow any rotational movement. Also red locktight

My long term fix is going to be dana 60 wheel hubs, double splined shafts and drive slugs
 
#8 ·
#12 ·
Jack

We haven't had this problem with out 14b. It's bent as hell and we still haven't seen loose axle bolts.

Using the stock bolts, cleaning the hell out of things with a wire wheel, starting fluid and then red locktite.

We've found every other normal production issue 14b problem but not that one
 
#15 ·
Make sure the shoulder is long enough to engage the hub. It is what actually locates the axle flange, and once it moves, the bolts will loosen.

quick and easy way to guarantee this is studs, because the "shoulder" diameter can be placed anywhere, like directly straddling the split between the hub and shaft.

Another thing is that your axleshafts may be twisting over time, and when they do that they very rarely stay 100% straight. Sorta kinda the same deal as the housing being bent. Long lever of the axle shaft trying to lift the small flange.
 
#20 ·
I have 3 suggestions, One is to make a plate similar to an izzy lock used on 9" ring gear bolts, but have it one piece. This of course would be a hassle if needed to be removed and replaced a couple times, then the tabs would break off and you have to make it again. same hassles involved with safety wiring.

My second thought, is similar to what I did with my D60 steering arm, I noticed that the cone washers on the studs were the same 60 degree angle as a set of lug nuts. So to avoid the hassle of getting taper locks in and out I used lug nuts. So I suggest a set of Dorman studs, 1/2" 13 x 1/20-20 part number either a 675-109 or 675-131. Then ream out the threads in the hub such that the shoulder of the stud centers at the parting line. Use a .498" reamer so the stud shoulder fits tight in the hub. Then use a 60 degree counter sink and c'sink the axle to just under 3/4" diameter, and retain with chromed (the tapers are harder) lug nuts. make sure you re torque repeatedly until tapers are set, studs are stretched, and metal compressed.

3rd Idea is how I kept my old 6 bolt jeep hubs from coming loose all the time. use a grade 9 bolt, get them long enough such that the unthreaded portion of the bolt goes past the parting line into the hub. The hub will need to have the threads reamed out a bit for the shank, and the the threaded holes will have to be drilled and tapped farther down, I would use a 2 1/4 long bolt. Fastenal Part No. (SKU): 01120704 or similar
torque to 115 Ft-lbs.
I would go to the trouble of making a guide bushing for a .498 reamer to clear the threads, using the axle holes as a guide which are typically .015" to .032" oversized so your guide bushing may be a piece of stainless steel shim stock, the point being to make things as tight and accurate a fit as possible.

Also all the red loctite in the world wont help you unless the surfaces are completely cleaned, so after tapping, spray out with 08880 3m brake cleaner ( only brand that still works well) , and air blast with a blaster that goes to the bottom of the hole, I have a piece of brake line in an air gun to get to the bottom, 3 times each hole
 
#21 ·
I had the same issue, though it was exagerated. Turned down cap heads to clear the 6 bolt wheel. 1 day on the trail and they'd start seeping. Replaced them with standard cap heads and they'd start after a few rides. I ended up with ferry cap screws (essentially a 12 point flange bolt) from Fastenal and the issue was gone. Not a drip :D. In my experience, your suspicion of the flange is dead on.
 
#22 ·
after all the loosening these hubs/axles have seen, whatever you do next, include a good flat filing of all mating surfaces, I'll bet you see quite a bit of distortion around the threaded holes, and possibly some on the axle flange.
 
#23 ·
This jantz guy might be worth listening to. Turning everything flat is an often overlooked step. And other good ideas. I do have to bust some balls on "grade 9" but the idea of using a bolt stronger than grade 8 is a good one and several places have them. I wonder if stage 8 has anything that would work though I'm not a fan of external locks like safety wire and such. They'll keep the bolt from backing out but aren't so hot at keeping it tight and keeping the joint compressed. At the end of the day though, a bolt that doesn't fall out is a better bolt than one that did.
 
#25 ·
So I ordered the "Nord Locks" from McMaster yesterday and should be here today. I also remembered that I have another set of hubs that I can play with. Drilling them deeper and then tapping them is not something I can do by hand. So I will take them apart and see just how deep I can go. I do have some Grade9 2" bolts with 0.50" shank and 1.75" of threads. I think this is a good doable idea along with the Nord Locks.

On the truck I have those metal gaskets installed with Permitex gray and a bunch of red Loctite for now. I have never had these go loose before we raced. So I think that the holding power of the bolts is right there, I just need to make it a little stronger.

What do you guys think of the metal gaskets between the axle shaft flange and the hub?
 
#30 ·
Drilling them deeper and then tapping them is not something I can do by hand.

What do you guys think of the metal gaskets between the axle shaft flange and the hub?
by hand is all I had when doing my old jeep 6 bolt hubs, didn't even ream as precise as i described before, just drilled out the the threads about 1/4-3/8 deeper for bolt shoulder, and then for tapping deeper there are already so much threads in there they will act as a drill guide for the tap drill. It worked well.
As for metal gaskets, they tend to be softer than the surrounding metal and squish out over time. Flat steel on flat steel with a thin layer of right stuff is the way to go.
 
#26 ·
I've been using the metal/rubber gasket Felrpo sells on mine. Stock bolts. Never had one back out/loosen up on my rear D60.

440 (~450HP) / NV4500 on 40" Maxxis Creepies (non-sticky).

Only raced at Line Mtn twice this year with no signs of them loosening.

I agree about the clean threads/flat mounting surfaces.
 
#31 ·
you also need to tap deeper because the threads you have now are deformed and stretched. You have to make new threads for proper contact for the anaerobics to work.
 
#32 ·
I ran studs in two and bolts on the rest. I ran a castle nut and cotter pin setup on the two with the studs. Works killer just make sure to loctite the studs in.
 
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