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Old 09-19-2015, 04:38 PM   #301 (permalink)
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I'm about to be mounting my struts(14" STX) in the next week or two.

I've read a lot about the ideal range being 50 up/50 down, and you can get away with running 6" shaft showing on a 14.

I've noticed in this thread that I decent amount of y'all are running with less than that?

Did it require modifications?
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Old 09-21-2015, 11:03 AM   #302 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by TAWL_BOY View Post
I'm about to be mounting my struts(14" STX) in the next week or two.

I've read a lot about the ideal range being 50 up/50 down, and you can get away with running 6" shaft showing on a 14.

I've noticed in this thread that I decent amount of y'all are running with less than that?

Did it require modifications?
The velocity-sensitive compression damping valve in the STX model makes it possible to ride with less shaft showing and not sacrifice ride quality. Harsh ride was the issue with the previous ST model when run at less than mid-stroke.
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Old 10-03-2015, 05:59 AM   #303 (permalink)
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if the oris first stage is running in air doesnt it mean shock has no compression dampening above half stroke just air pumping through the ports
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Old 10-03-2015, 10:42 PM   #304 (permalink)
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if the oris first stage is running in air doesnt it mean shock has no compression dampening above half stroke just air pumping through the ports
That is true unless a reservoir is added along with more oil. The first few inches of stroke flowing gas and no oil helps make the ride smooth. We added the velocity-sensitive compression damping valve to the STX model that allows both gas and oil to pass through the damping ports freely until the piston shaft has a sharp increase in speed, again, to keep the ride smooth. With this valve, ride height can be set lower than could be set with the older ST model that would ride harshly if the piston shaft was not set at least at mid-stroke at ride height.

The new reservoir/strut combination shown below allows free flowing gas and oil through the 1st compression damping stage. Damping gradually increases through all 5 stages. This high-capacity reservoir provides enough gas compression volume to make possible full-stroke damping without resulting in a steep spring rate curve. 1st stage damping remains velocity-sensitive so average driving with little shaft deflection will be as smooth as possible, and generate less internal heat.
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Old 10-04-2015, 11:10 AM   #305 (permalink)
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I case I missed it will these new resi be able to be used on the previous stx's ? I got some of the smaller resi' but be interesting if you could upgrade the previous units to the newer setup.
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Old 10-04-2015, 12:49 PM   #306 (permalink)
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In case I missed it will these new resi be able to be used on the previous stx's ? I got some of the smaller resi' but be interesting if you could upgrade the previous units to the newer setup.
Yes, we designed them to be upgradeable to the STX. Had we not done so we would be facing an angry mob. Not only that, the current STX velocity-sensitive valve works perfectly as a 1st stage in the compression damping sequence, keeping the ride smooth until piston shaft speed picks up, the valve engages, and then provides the 1st in 5 stages damping during jumps and whoops.
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Last edited by irb4ur; 10-04-2015 at 12:50 PM.
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Old 10-04-2015, 05:24 PM   #307 (permalink)
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What would be the price to upgrade 4 14" stx with the new resi.
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Old 10-05-2015, 07:37 AM   #308 (permalink)
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random question here that I think I know the answer to, but just want to verify...

I am mid-late build and to the point where i need to go from ride height to full bump to full droop on a pretty regular basis...and doing that with a jack is just time consuming and annoying. Can I leave the lower chambers empty and just fill and empty the upper chambers to go to and from ride height?

Will I loose oil from the top valve if I am filling and emptying a bunch?
Do I need to put any air in the lower chambers as well?
Do I need to fill the top valve at full extension, or can I effectively use the shocks as a "jack" to move the chassis up and down?
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Old 10-05-2015, 07:43 AM   #309 (permalink)
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random question here that I think I know the answer to, but just want to verify...

I am mid-late build and to the point where i need to go from ride height to full bump to full droop on a pretty regular basis...and doing that with a jack is just time consuming and annoying. Can I leave the lower chambers empty and just fill and empty the upper chambers to go to and from ride height?

Will I loose oil from the top valve if I am filling and emptying a bunch?
Do I need to put any air in the lower chambers as well?
Do I need to fill the top valve at full extension, or can I effectively use the shocks as a "jack" to move the chassis up and down?
At least 40psi is needed in the bottom chamber or rebound damping will not work. As long as the strut is vertical you should not lose much oil from the top while venting pressure, but do so slowly or the rush of escaping gas will pull oil with it.
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Old 10-05-2015, 07:47 AM   #310 (permalink)
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At least 40psi is needed in the bottom chamber or rebound damping will not work. As long as the strut is vertical you should not lose much oil from the top while venting pressure, but do so slowly or the rush of escaping gas will pull oil with it.
Ok, so I can just pop ~50 psi or so in the bottom (i can do this at full bump, or do I need to extend the shock all the way?) and then I can just put nitro in the top as needed from full bump as well?

Shocks are just about vertical, they are in standard mounting locations.

This is only needed to raise and lower at this time...I will not be doing this "for real" at the end for setting and tuning.
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Old 10-05-2015, 07:48 AM   #311 (permalink)
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I keep a few psi in the lower chambers on mine (like 50) and dump all the pressure in the upper valve to cycle the suspension...

Once the struts have been sitting in the vertical position for a while, you shouldn't be spitting out fluid from the top valve. I only experienced that when I first installed them and they had been lying flat on the shelf for a long time.

I raise my truck using the STXs.... since the struts are new, it may take a surprising amount of PSI to get the truck to start lifting up... I have a dual fill kit and I notice that the pressure will start high, then drops as the truck starts to lift (due to the extra volume that needs to be filled)... so if you're quick on the shutoffs (or regulator) you can usually taper it down to the preferred PSI value as they are slowly filling and lifting the truck. My truck is heavy (Full size K5) so I usually end up around 300 PSI in the fronts to get 6.5" of chrome showing.


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Old 10-05-2015, 08:01 AM   #312 (permalink)
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I keep a few psi in the lower chambers on mine (like 50) and dump all the pressure in the upper valve to cycle the suspension...

Once the struts have been sitting in the vertical position for a while, you shouldn't be spitting out fluid from the top valve. I only experienced that when I first installed them and they had been lying flat on the shelf for a long time.

I raise my truck using the STXs.... since the struts are new, it may take a surprising amount of PSI to get the truck to start lifting up... I have a dual fill kit and I notice that the pressure will start high, then drops as the truck starts to lift (due to the extra volume that needs to be filled)... so if you're quick on the shutoffs (or regulator) you can usually taper it down to the preferred PSI value as they are slowly filling and lifting the truck. My truck is heavy (Full size K5) so I usually end up around 300 PSI in the fronts to get 6.5" of chrome showing.


-G
I dont have a dual fill kit....I was just going to set the reg, and use the chuck to throw PSI in. Since i dont really care about the actual PSI and only care about height...I figured it wouldnt matter...just dump a bunch in and then bleed it off if I go too high.

Am i wrong in that thinking? I have one of those fancy no-loss fill chucks as well...but thats alot more work than popping the chuck on and going to town
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Old 10-05-2015, 08:05 AM   #313 (permalink)
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I dont have a dual fill kit....I was just going to set the reg, and use the chuck to throw PSI in. Since i dont really care about the actual PSI and only care about height...I figured it wouldnt matter...just dump a bunch in and then bleed it off if I go too high.

Am i wrong in that thinking? I have one of those fancy no-loss fill chucks as well...but thats alot more work than popping the chuck on and going to town

The dual-fill isn't necessary, it just makes life a little easier, since you typically set the PSI the same for both struts. The only other thing I would say is that the PSI will fluctuate somewhat if you get on the bumper and jump up and down to settle-out the suspension. Again, I think with brand new struts you can end up overfilling them to get them to lift initially since the seals are so stiff and tight. So if you don't settle the suspension, you will probably start to develop the wrong impression about how many PSI are really necessary to achieve a specific ride height.


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Old 10-09-2015, 11:13 PM   #314 (permalink)
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I dont have a dual fill kit....I was just going to set the reg, and use the chuck to throw PSI in. Since i dont really care about the actual PSI and only care about height...I figured it wouldnt matter...just dump a bunch in and then bleed it off if I go too high.

Am i wrong in that thinking? I have one of those fancy no-loss fill chucks as well...but thats alot more work than popping the chuck on and going to town
That's how I do it, and it works. There's a video of me lifting a rzr this way in the sand dunes. If you have the dual fill, you can use the gauge to see your pressure, and you can order 1000psi gauges as well.
My hand seems to work fine as a regulator
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Old 12-06-2015, 01:29 PM   #315 (permalink)
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So I'm having some issues with my 2010 14" ST struts. My initial pressure settings were something like 350 over 150 with 6" of chrome. These are on a full size Dodge half ton single cab. When I put my truck together, my sprung weight was under their 1,200lbs per corner mark. I haven't added anything to it. It's actually become marginally lighter as a result of a missing fender and bumper.

So I laid it over on it's side in the fall of 2011, and then wheeled it a few times there after. Sometime in the spring of 2012, one of the struts leaked down all the way to the bump stop.

I didn't get to do much with it until recently do to moving a few times, marriage, etc. This time it took 450 over 150 to get that same 6" of chrome showing. And one settled to 2" of chrome and the other to 3.5" of chrome. I naturally assumed the pressure bled off somehow. I checked the uppers, still 450psi.

So, that puts me at this conundrum. I will say I have lost SOME oil here and there, but I didn't think I lost THAT much. Maybe a tablespoon's worth?

What say you? Rebuild them to STXs and get the $100 reservoirs and go from there?
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Old 12-06-2015, 05:19 PM   #316 (permalink)
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I didn't read your whole deal,
But I would rebuild them with stx teknologiesz and put bypass teknologiesz if you think you need it.
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Old 12-09-2015, 07:36 AM   #317 (permalink)
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I think you are having a seal issue. I had it twice.

Send them in for a rebuild.

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So I'm having some issues with my 2010 14" ST struts. My initial pressure settings were something like 350 over 150 with 6" of chrome. These are on a full size Dodge half ton single cab. When I put my truck together, my sprung weight was under their 1,200lbs per corner mark. I haven't added anything to it. It's actually become marginally lighter as a result of a missing fender and bumper.

So I laid it over on it's side in the fall of 2011, and then wheeled it a few times there after. Sometime in the spring of 2012, one of the struts leaked down all the way to the bump stop.

I didn't get to do much with it until recently do to moving a few times, marriage, etc. This time it took 450 over 150 to get that same 6" of chrome showing. And one settled to 2" of chrome and the other to 3.5" of chrome. I naturally assumed the pressure bled off somehow. I checked the uppers, still 450psi.

So, that puts me at this conundrum. I will say I have lost SOME oil here and there, but I didn't think I lost THAT much. Maybe a tablespoon's worth?

What say you? Rebuild them to STXs and get the $100 reservoirs and go from there?
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Old 01-10-2016, 09:24 AM   #318 (permalink)
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Sent my rear ORIs in last summer to have the old ST models upgraded to STX versions after one started leaking. Got them back and a few months later I noticed one was only extending 12" on that 16" shock. Twice now I have had to vent the lower and got a bunch of oil out and then it would extend. Apparently oil from the top chambers is getting into the bottom then locks it from extending. Hoping it is an easy fix and not too costly again. Was thinking of while there maybe see about adding the new external reservoirs too. Anyone have experience with them? Hoping they have been out in use long enough any bugs are worked out and not going to have all these issues right off the bat with something new.


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Old 01-10-2016, 10:47 AM   #319 (permalink)
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I'm having a similar issue also. I have one that is wanting to extend all the way on its on, causing the truck to lean.Tried to mess with the presures and it just bypasses internally. I took out the upper shrader valve and the nitrogen I add to the bottom just comes out the top. I need to take it apart and see what's going on. Can't afford to send them in right now.

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Old 01-10-2016, 10:50 AM   #320 (permalink)
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Sent my rear ORIs in last summer to have the old ST models upgraded to STX versions after one started leaking. Got them back and a few months later I noticed one was only extending 12" on that 16" shock. Twice now I have had to vent the lower and got a bunch of oil out and then it would extend. Apparently oil from the top chambers is getting into the bottom then locks it from extending. Hoping it is an easy fix and not too costly again. Was thinking of while there maybe see about adding the new external reservoirs too. Anyone have experience with them? Hoping they have been out in use long enough any bugs are worked out and not going to have all these issues right off the bat with something new.
I had my issue after an STX upgtrade too. There is a lower cap seal update too, not sure if they did that on yours? Mine are now all updated STX and seal wise.
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Old 01-10-2016, 01:22 PM   #321 (permalink)
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They did all the current updates when they were in then. That was like August or September of 2014. When I noticed it the first time it was like Feb of 2015 and Mark I think told me possibly mess up oil amount during rebuild and to drain the lower chambers and I got the extra oil. Said about the time mine were in they started testing them a new way but wasn't sure if mine would have been tested or not at that time. Well a few months ago I noticed it again and drain that cup of oil out of the bottoms to get it to extend again so it is leaking internally. Talked to Mark again and he said wouldn't hurt to make another run on it that I had planned so now I am ready to send in for repair again.
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Old 01-10-2016, 01:38 PM   #322 (permalink)
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They did all the current updates when they were in then. That was like August or September of 2014. When I noticed it the first time it was like Feb of 2015 and Mark I think told me possibly mess up oil amount during rebuild and to drain the lower chambers and I got the extra oil. Said about the time mine were in they started testing them a new way but wasn't sure if mine would have been tested or not at that time. Well a few months ago I noticed it again and drain that cup of oil out of the bottoms to get it to extend again so it is leaking internally. Talked to Mark again and he said wouldn't hurt to make another run on it that I had planned so now I am ready to send in for repair again.
I would just confirm that they changed the lower caps too along with the uppers which is mandatory for the STX upgrade. The seal change requires a new lower cap to be installed.
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Old 01-10-2016, 01:41 PM   #323 (permalink)
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If I recall both end caps were changed but I'll double check that when I get these in. Suppose those new reservoirs would be a good upgrade while in?
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Old 01-10-2016, 01:54 PM   #324 (permalink)
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If I recall both end caps were changed but I'll double check that when I get these in. Suppose those new reservoirs would be a good upgrade while in?
If you're talking about the integrated ones with 5 stage externally adjustable compression dampening, yes.
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Old 01-10-2016, 06:39 PM   #325 (permalink)
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Does anyone know when these will be available?
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