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Old 04-07-2017, 06:49 AM   #426 (permalink)
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Good point ROX.

I got my STX new back in 2011. I always questioned the antifreeze as I had never heard of it used in an application like this before.

The 1st time I pulled them apart I switched to Amsoil and have been running that ever since. FWIW we are run Amsoil at work in a vehicle with a similar suspension concept (gas springs with fully adjustable ride height).

Now thinking back. I do belive they have changed the seal design but when talking to ORI the cost was all on me so I wasn't excited to throw another chunk of money at them for struts that were basically new.

I should add. I did use to think they were great but I never thought they were good on road. I don't think the struts have gotten worse, just my opinion of them.

F work for blocking pirate... We build off road vehicles. This place has always been a wealth of knowledge.
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Old 04-07-2017, 07:17 AM   #427 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by bsrober3 View Post
My Timeline-
2008 Bought ORIs
Jan 2013- Upgraded all 4 to STX Version
May 2013- Front Driver Shock Stuck- Shipped in to fix
Early Oct 2013- Rear Driver Shock Stuck- Shipped all 4 to upgrade to "high-temp" seals.
Late Oct 2013- Front Driver Shock Leaked down over 8 hour period (330 psi to 210 psi)- Shipped in to fix
April 2017 All 4 have oil leaking where they shouldnt. Shipped all 4 in for Service
All sounds like bad seals except for last, have not heard about oil leaking before. Where is it leaking from?

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Originally Posted by eclipsed4ever View Post
I'm currently designing a lightweight off-roader destined for trialling over here in the UK. I've only seen ORI's used on a handful of rigs doing what we do, most of which are in Europe.

What sort of damping adjustment is there on these? Is it just the one screw and does this change compression damping throughout the whole range? Is there any rebound adjustment?

So far I've only run on Fox 2.0 Airshocks which are adjustable with a rebuild. My fox agent has suggested for maximum performance in being able to hit anything at speed I should be looking at 2.5 Airshocks (to reduce gas pressures which would decrease body lift on side slopes) alongside triple bypass shocks to give maximum adjustability. With those he thinks I should be able to keep a soft ride, but when I'm really hitting something hard I can adjust the damping up to keep things under control.

Is there anywhere near this about of adjustment with ORI's? Pricewise I think they'd work out about the same if not cheaper than airshocks+triple bypass... Any thoughts greatly appreciated.
Rebound adjustment is done at the bottom with a multi position screw. Compression dampening is done fixed orifice internally unless you pay to get the new externally adjustable multi phase fixed reservoir. Some top comp crawler teams have started using them over airshocks recently. With airshocks they used so much oil they rode like crap from what I've read, much softer ride with ORI's.

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Originally Posted by kmkommes View Post
Good point ROX.

I got my STX new back in 2011. I always questioned the antifreeze as I had never heard of it used in an application like this before.

The 1st time I pulled them apart I switched to Amsoil and have been running that ever since. FWIW we are run Amsoil at work in a vehicle with a similar suspension concept (gas springs with fully adjustable ride height).

Now thinking back. I do belive they have changed the seal design but when talking to ORI the cost was all on me so I wasn't excited to throw another chunk of money at them for struts that were basically new.

I should add. I did use to think they were great but I never thought they were good on road. I don't think the struts have gotten worse, just my opinion of them.

F work for blocking pirate... We build off road vehicles. This place has always been a wealth of knowledge.
Did you switch the top to amsoil too? I've had all the seals upgraded on mine. They have changed the seals a few times from what I know.

I can access the site, but they block the pics, bastids.
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Old 04-07-2017, 07:24 AM   #428 (permalink)
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All sounds like bad seals except for last, have not heard about oil leaking before. Where is it leaking from?
Fronts (have piggyback reservoirs)- When I released pressure from the reservoir I heard a lot of gurgling. I disconnected the hose a lot of oil sprayed out. I opened both reservoirs and one had an inch of oil in it. Released the pressure in the bottom chambers- a ton of green oil came out.
Rears (no piggybacks)- Minimal oil came out the top chamber. Some green oil came out the bottom chamber.

Sending all 4 in today.
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Old 04-10-2017, 08:09 AM   #429 (permalink)
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This thread makes me a tad nervous about my recent purchase.

Hope I have better luck than some of you. I'm guessing Ill be popping in here with a few questions.
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Old 04-10-2017, 08:13 AM   #430 (permalink)
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Rebound adjustment is done at the bottom with a multi position screw. Compression dampening is done fixed orifice internally unless you pay to get the new externally adjustable multi phase fixed reservoir. Some top comp crawler teams have started using them over airshocks recently. With airshocks they used so much oil they rode like crap from what I've read, much softer ride with ORI's.
So there is only a single adjustment for each bound (with external reservoir) and rebound which affects the entire stroke of the shock? Did I read somewhere they have speed sensing damping? Would this do away with the need for multiple 'fixed' damping adjustments like you'd get with triple bypass?
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Old 04-10-2017, 08:41 AM   #431 (permalink)
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I had 2 sets of ORI's. Building a new buggy and decided to go with coilovers this time. ASDS makes a selectable valving system which I want to try.

I was going to order the top of the line 16" STX with integral reservoir and was advised by a major reseller not to do it.

2 years ago I lost a seal in an STX in Moab during ESJ on day 1. My ORI hydro locked shortly after. Nobody at all could help. Moab OutPost had no experience or time, tried a few shops in Salt Lake, called around. My next 10 days were hellish wheeling. I did how ever buy a pair of air shocks to carry as spares. IOn the picts the Jeep is raised by the jack and NO droop, the ORI is hydro-locked on the bump. In the end it was a cheap fix at home but lost a lot of wheeling after a 21 hour drive to get to Moab

In the near future I will be able to compare the 2 systems. I did like the ORI's though.
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Old 04-10-2017, 09:09 AM   #432 (permalink)
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This thread makes me a tad nervous about my recent purchase.

Hope I have better luck than some of you. I'm guessing Ill be popping in here with a few questions.
People rarely post when they're happy, but they love to post when they're not. There is an abundance of satisfied users, if there weren't ORI wouldn't be in business.

This is an ORI Tuning Thread, lets get it back on track. Talking about 2+ year old seal issues, coilovers etc is not what this thread is for.
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Old 04-10-2017, 09:15 AM   #433 (permalink)
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So there is only a single adjustment for each bound (with external reservoir) and rebound which affects the entire stroke of the shock? Did I read somewhere they have speed sensing damping? Would this do away with the need for multiple 'fixed' damping adjustments like you'd get with triple bypass?
There are ports internally that you open or plug off to adjust the compression dampening. Yes the dampening is speed sensitive. I'll let irb4ur respond to the last question.
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Old 04-10-2017, 05:31 PM   #434 (permalink)
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So there is only a single adjustment for each bound (with external reservoir) and rebound which affects the entire stroke of the shock? Did I read somewhere they have speed sensing damping? Would this do away with the need for multiple 'fixed' damping adjustments like you'd get with triple bypass?
Integral or remote reservoir adds two compression damping stages for a total of three, including the velocity-sensitive 1st stage already in the body of the strut. Compression damping is externally adjustable 24-position. So it's staged and adjustable. Each stage can be tuned for faster or slower damping as well.

The 20" stroke has three stages in the reservoir. So if you count the internal bump stop as a stage, that's 5 stages total.

The small piggyback reservoir softens the spring rate but is not adjustable. Without any reservoir, the compression damping can be adjusted by blocking ports in the compression valve.
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Old 04-10-2017, 05:44 PM   #435 (permalink)
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This is the integral reservoir. Mounted to the STX, it also runs very cool. The 19 internal bypass tubes are removed, and the cooling fins run top to bottom and are much deeper, both on the strut body and on the reservoir. More than twice the standard amount of oil goes in the top chamber so that the compression damping stages begin the moment the tires touch the ground.

The reservoir can be rotated to any position 360 degrees around the strut body and can be fit to any STX strut. A remote reservoir is also available that attaches with a large 3/4" hose.

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Old 04-10-2017, 07:28 PM   #436 (permalink)
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I think if the oil is green that means the upper & lower oils are mixing -one leaking into the other. I'm dealing with different issues on mine I haven't driven it on the road yet
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Old 04-11-2017, 11:45 AM   #437 (permalink)
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Just ordered my regulator today. What size tank am I needing? Is a 20cu big enough?

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Old 04-12-2017, 09:07 AM   #438 (permalink)
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I haven't read all 18 pages of this but thought I would chime in with some things I have found while trying to get mine dialed in.

The other day I thought I had a strut that was locked up, it would lift the axle off the ground when I lifted the rig, even when I stood on the tire. But after wheeling it for a while turns out it was just stiff. Seems like the seals can be really stiff at times and this also seems to keep the body rolled over if you park after a turn, like when I pull into my garage I have to turn in... that causes problems in itself causing me to think the shocks are off but they aren't necessarily.

Another thing I've noticed and I don't seem to have a solution for is that I can't really trust the guage. Reading the top pressures on the passenger side can vary by 100psi depending on if I lift up on the passenger side, or push down on the passenger side. Obviously you need to try and rock the rig back and fourth to try and center it, but when I rock it, it just stays in that position instead of centering itself. So the only real way for me to get a handle on it is drive it around for a while, flex it out, to see if things level out, then add more pressure as needed.

Another tip, my buddy who deals with these a lot always checks his lowers at ride height and I've started doing the same (instead of following the directions to check the lowers). Yes the pressures read higher, maybe 90psi unloaded = 150 or so loaded. But it still seems to work just fine and is much easier than dropping the top pressures every time you need to check the lowers.
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Old 05-03-2017, 11:19 PM   #439 (permalink)
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considering ORI

Considering ORIs for current build.
I've read through the thread and seems like the complexity of all the different adjustments is the cause to many peoples "issues" IE: lack of knowledge and correct tuning.
Suspension tuning is by no means black magic but not fully understanding exactly how it all interacts can make great suspension work like doo-doo.
One thing that seems detached from user tuning is the seal stiction that has been mentioned many times this is a little concerning as this can really affect how suspension acts.
has ORI addressed this issue? or is it deeper than just seal/component stiction?
can anybody comment deeper on this possible issue?
overall are people satisfied with the product performance/price?
Thanks for the info!
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Old 05-04-2017, 10:01 AM   #440 (permalink)
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I've been running mine for years and I really like them. You have to be willing to put the time into tuning them to get the most out of them. Sticktion on mine goes away after a few minutes. Are they perfect for everyone? No. Also they won't magically fix shitty suspension geometry.

For me they have been money well spent.
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Old 09-19-2017, 10:57 PM   #441 (permalink)
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How do I know what to do with the adjustment screw on the stx shocks?
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Old 09-20-2017, 06:54 AM   #442 (permalink)
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How do I know what to do with the adjustment screw on the stx shocks?
Turn it clockwise to increase the rebound dampening (slower) or counter clockwise for less rebound dampening (faster).

And to add a little tech, I just had my front struts updated to the 2016 rebound design. Dang, what a difference, rears are going in this fall.
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Old 09-20-2017, 07:46 AM   #443 (permalink)
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What all has to be changed to upgrade the rebound?
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Old 09-20-2017, 08:09 AM   #444 (permalink)
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What all has to be changed to upgrade the rebound?
Its a whole new lower shock eye assembly. It uses metered orifices rather than pressure plates that have a tendency to fatigue over time and quit working.
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Old 10-27-2017, 10:26 AM   #445 (permalink)
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Tuning 14" ST Ori's with 4 to 5" chrome?

I cant find a Manual any where. Most I have found are talking about STX.

I have 14" Ori's and Run them at 4-5" chrome showing. I have recently taken them apart to change the oil and inspection. I Rock crawl and occasionally go to a Jeep meet or Car wash so 90% trails.

My question is whats my best bet to tune them and How much oil should I run in each chamber? Should I cut the tubes. From my research on the STX I should possibly run 100 cc less oil and possibly cut the tubes a little bit. My rig is a stretched YJ about 4100 lbs

Thanks for any response!
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Old 10-27-2017, 10:57 AM   #446 (permalink)
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Cut the bypass tubes to be 2" short of reaching the bottom of the shell (aluminum cylinder). That is done for better cooling. The manuals are on the ORI website under Products/STX Strut. ST model is close to the same as the STX as far as tuning goes. You can run 100cc less oil, but will bottom out easier. If rough ride is the issue, you can add a piggyback reservoir and even add some oil and come out with a smoother ride. The piggyback reservoir adds 150cc volume.
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Old 10-27-2017, 11:55 AM   #447 (permalink)
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I am in about the same spot as he is right now. 14's at 5 inch of up travel. If I get it in the air the front feel ok, the rear never hits the bumps and pogo's bad, like a 2 day head ache inducing bad. Buddy was following me up Fordyce the other day and he said he could see it pogo just dropping off of rocks. Was thinking to drain all the oil and reset them 50cc lower than stock and start over on pressures. Would it be worth it to open them up and trim the tubes back 2" at the same time?
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Old 10-30-2017, 09:48 AM   #448 (permalink)
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Trimming the bypass tubes is to help with cooling. The pogo issue might fix with an oil change and thorough cleaning in the lower chamber. The 2015 and older rebound damping is sensitive to oil contamination and will fade or stop working. Be careful not to damage the metering plate and damper body in each strut. They are matched sets for an air-tight seal--don't mix up the parts from one strut to the other. Upper oil will not affect rebound damping.

If you already have the rebound damping screw turned all the way clockwise and it still bounces, then you need to look inside for contaminated oil or damaged parts. Also sand the top of the damper body and floating valve to be flat so that they will seal against each other. Use 1000 grit wet/dry paper.

2016 and later rebound damping is much stronger, simpler, and far less sensitive to oil contamination. No internal calibration.
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Old 10-30-2017, 09:52 AM   #449 (permalink)
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irb4ur, Could you PM me with some info on upgrading a pair of older ST's that were upgraded to STX's with this new rebound setup? (What all has to be replaced & pricing/availability)
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Old 10-30-2017, 11:41 AM   #450 (permalink)
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I am in about the same spot as he is right now. 14's at 5 inch of up travel. If I get it in the air the front feel ok, the rear never hits the bumps and pogo's bad, like a 2 day head ache inducing bad. Buddy was following me up Fordyce the other day and he said he could see it pogo just dropping off of rocks.
Your "pogo" or hopping issue while climbing rocks is just as likely to be bad link geometry (too much anti-squat) than a problem with the ORIs. Have you calculated your anti-squat yet?
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