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Old 05-07-2014, 10:06 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Hole cutter recommendation for chassis fab

I'm going to be doing some frame mods with 1/4" thick square/rectangular tube and would like to drill the holes for bushing sleeves and through bolt crush sleeves instead of using the torch if reasonable. I don't have a magnetic portable drill and will actually be forced to use a variable speed 1/2" hand drill. I've been looking at the carbide tip hole cutters/saws. What do the rest of you use without access to the high dollar toys?
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Old 05-07-2014, 10:11 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Just use regular hole saws. The carbide tip cutters are very unforgiving in a hand drill. When ising the hole saws take a 2x4 and punch out what ever size saw you are using and use it as a guide. Clamp to what ever you are drilling.
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Old 05-07-2014, 10:27 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Pre-drill the hole/angle with a long 1/4" bit.

Use a 1/4" steel stock in your drill bit that is long enough to START through both holes...

You'll drill nice and square like the bastard is on a press..

Cleanest way is to bore 80% through one hole, switch sides and do the same, keeps the bore aligned better for both holes.

I am by no means a pro...But this method cut broken 1/4" bits WAY down, and its a tip i copied from this site somewhere along the way.
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Old 05-07-2014, 10:36 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks for the quick reply and technique tips. What I'm more concerned with is good and bad experiences with different saws. I've blunted off store brand saws trying to cut through 1/16 sheet before! Buying useless saws/bits gets expensive quick! I don't want to spend $50 per size but the 5 size kit for $10 is IMO nothing more than a wasted trip to the store and wasted money for this use.
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Old 05-07-2014, 10:52 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I've had the best luck with milwaukee, lenox, and irwin hole saws...They are all junk but these aren't as junky
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Old 05-07-2014, 10:53 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Sheemetal tears up hole saws faster than 1/8"+ stuff will.
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Old 05-07-2014, 10:57 AM   #7 (permalink)
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.They are all junk but these aren't as junky
LOL, I think that should be their slogans!!
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Old 05-07-2014, 11:00 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Sheemetal tears up hole saws faster than 1/8"+ stuff will.
I need to put in some dash holes for gauges. Jigsaw cant cut a radius that tight and Greenlee knockout punches ain't 'zactly cost effective for a handful of holes.
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Old 05-07-2014, 11:03 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Look for some stuff called "Anchor lube" it's designed for Hogan bits and hole saws. It sticks to the bit and lubes great. I buy it buy the gallon jug for use with my hole saw notcher. Also if you need to go through the bottom of the frame, use you floor Jack under the drill. It works like using a grill press.
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Old 05-07-2014, 11:23 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Look for some stuff called "Anchor lube" it's designed for Hogan bits and hole saws. It sticks to the bit and lubes great. I buy it buy the gallon jug for use with my hole saw notcher. Also if you need to go through the bottom of the frame, use you floor Jack under the drill. It works like using a grill press.
Or put a sponge in the holesaw after soaking it in your preferred cutting lube. I use this method on my notcher.
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Old 05-07-2014, 11:41 AM   #11 (permalink)
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I have had a piece of 1/4" round stock in my hole arbor for quite a while, just easier to pre-drill everything 1/4" then the round stock can't woller out your pilot hole like a bit would. Also Matco hole saws are lifetime warrantee.
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Old 05-07-2014, 11:42 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Thanks for the quick reply and technique tips. What I'm more concerned with is good and bad experiences with different saws. I've blunted off store brand saws trying to cut through 1/16 sheet before! Buying useless saws/bits gets expensive quick! I don't want to spend $50 per size but the 5 size kit for $10 is IMO nothing more than a wasted trip to the store and wasted money for this use.
and im willing to bet your drill is way too fast for a hole saw, which will burn it up and dull the teeth, i use a right angle drill that spins very slow and a bottle of water with a pin hole in the cap, squeeze it to spray water on the hole saw to keep it cool.

the 1/4" steel rod will work better on tube, the wood 2x4 will work better on flat
plate.
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Old 05-07-2014, 11:49 AM   #13 (permalink)
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and im willing to bet your drill is way too fast for a hole saw, which will burn it up and dull the teeth, i use a right angle drill that spins very slow and a bottle of water with a pin hole in the cap, squeeze it to spray water on the hole saw to keep it cool.

the 1/4" steel rod will work better on tube, the wood 2x4 will work better on flat
plate.
swap the water for oil, and you'll be much happier. I save old toothbrushes, and even the new base model ones from the dentist visits and dip and lay on my holesaws to get that oil cutting in there.
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Old 05-07-2014, 12:12 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mutt View Post
Pre-drill the hole/angle with a long 1/4" bit.

Use a 1/4" steel stock in your drill bit that is long enough to START through both holes...

You'll drill nice and square like the bastard is on a press..

Cleanest way is to bore 80% through one hole, switch sides and do the same, keeps the bore aligned better for both holes.

I am by no means a pro...But this method cut broken 1/4" bits WAY down, and its a tip i copied from this site somewhere along the way.
This. Anytime I use a holesaw, I always pre-drill the 1/4" hole. That way you can ease the holesaw in, instead of it hitting and biting when the pilot bit breaks through. I have a few different length pieces of 1/4" round bar with flats ground in them to tighten in the arbor. Also works for notching tube in a pinch, knock your pilots and notch away, cordless drills LOVE IT haha. Rota roaches are nice, but if they grab or you move in an angle, they like to shatter and they're not cheap to replace.

*edit* almost forgot a good trick, when drilling 1/8" and thicker material, score the circle with the holesaw, then take a small bit(I usually use a 1/4"), and drop a hole through the scored line, but not getting into the "outside" of the circle. This will allow the shavings to drop out of the hole and keep you from having to pull out and clean the teeth off repeatedly.
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Old 05-07-2014, 12:25 PM   #15 (permalink)
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lenox seems to be a decent hole saw. I mitered most of the tubes on my chassis with one saw. Only reason i had to get a new one is because it got hung up and broke a few of the teeth. make sure you have a good quality arbor. stripped the thread on two of them cutting through 1.75x.188
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Old 05-07-2014, 01:03 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Or put a sponge in the holesaw after soaking it in your preferred cutting lube. I use this method on my notcher.
...that's a damn fawking good idea right there
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Old 05-07-2014, 05:01 PM   #17 (permalink)
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swap the water for oil, and you'll be much happier. I save old toothbrushes, and even the new base model ones from the dentist visits and dip and lay on my holesaws to get that oil cutting in there.
I use a emulsion machining lube/coolant in a spray bottle, works a lot better and the cleanup is much easier. That and cost for cost with a properly diluted gallon is cheap as fuck.
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Old 05-07-2014, 05:36 PM   #18 (permalink)
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This is all great info, but doesn't this belong in the Shop and Tools Forum.
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Old 05-07-2014, 07:01 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Thanks guys. I appreciate all the responses. This is the first thread I've ever gotten so many actually helpful replies instead of F you, F-that, and everyone calling each other out.
I have a really old hand held drill gear reduction doo-dad that has a small (approx 1/4") input and a 1/2" chuck on the other!
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Old 05-07-2014, 07:29 PM   #20 (permalink)
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swap the water for oil, and you'll be much happier. I save old toothbrushes, and even the new base model ones from the dentist visits and dip and lay on my holesaws to get that oil cutting in there.
ive tried a few different types of oils and i prefer the water, its free and it evaporates leaving no mess, it also keeps the bit colder because i can continuously spray the water without worrying about wasting too much of it. my hole saws last for ever different strokes for different folks
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Old 05-07-2014, 07:31 PM   #21 (permalink)
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This is all great info, but doesn't this belong in the Shop and Tools Forum.
yes it does and its been covered more then once, i guess were feeling nice today
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Old 05-07-2014, 07:41 PM   #22 (permalink)
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yes it does and its been covered more then once, i guess were feeling nice today
I figured I would be asking something others had gone over in the past. Unfortunately it seems the longer the internet is in operation the harder it is to do a search and actually get what you are looking for to come up within a reasonable number of results. I can remember when the information superhighway was no more than a dirt two track with little more than a dictionary and a Dollar Store at either end of it......and it doesn't seem like so long ago
I really do appreciate the help. I know it doesn't take anymore effort to type than the typical foul responses some like to give with nothing of use and loads of ridicule and arrogance. Its almost like they don't know anything but just want to build a post count or they aren't sure of what they want to say and don't want to be proven wrong so its easier to type out 4 letter words and be vulgar or cruel.
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Old 05-07-2014, 07:48 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Thanks guys. I appreciate all the responses. This is the first thread I've ever gotten so many actually helpful replies instead of F you, F-that, and everyone calling each other out.
Use your mom's dentures and lube it with the tears gathered from your sorry life.











There, that better?
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Old 05-07-2014, 07:52 PM   #24 (permalink)
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I know it doesn't take anymore effort to type than the typical foul responses some like to give with nothing of use and loads of ridicule and arrogance. Its almost like they don't know anything but just want to build a post count or they aren't sure of what they want to say and don't want to be proven wrong so its easier to type out 4 letter words and be vulgar or cruel.
youre over thinking it, thats just how pirate works
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Old 05-07-2014, 08:18 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Oh I know, I don't let it bother me and I've politely asked the keyboard commandos to stay out of my threads before, if they aren't contributing to anything other than their ego. I grew up in a different time and place from the majority of members here. I just don't get anything out of acting that way.

If this should be in the tools section, any mod who sees it can feel free to move it. I wasn't sure in what direction it develop. I wouldn't have been surprised to hear that 1/4" would be better off done with a torch and cleaned up with a grinder.
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