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Old 09-25-2015, 11:37 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Expansion tank vs overflow in cooling system

Swapped an Lsx into my k5 and wrapping things up with the install now. I installed an LS combo radiator from griffin and need to get some sort of fluid overflow system.

I initially purchased a catch can from jegs just as an overflow tank but understand that the LS system works better with a true pressurized expansion tank.

My understanding is the expansion tank will remain under pressure and as the radiator cools will force fluid back past the cap into the radiator.

Is this a function of the radiator cap or the expansion tank.

Question I am getting to is can I repurpose my overflow tank as an expansion tank by just sealing it and making one inlet/outlet?
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Old 09-25-2015, 11:46 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Here is the tank I bought.

JEGS Performance Products 51147, JEGS Hexagonal Recirculating/Overflow Tanks & Catch Cans | JEGS Performance Products
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Old 09-26-2015, 10:14 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Read the cooling system bible. The answers are in there.
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Old 09-26-2015, 11:33 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I have and it answers a lot of questions. I will be leaving this as an overflow but Curious as to how fluid will return to the radiator if I plumb line into top with pet cock on bottom. I know the fluid should be sucked back up but unless there is some sort of tube.....????
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Old 09-26-2015, 11:59 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I run this on my 6.0 lq4 with a griffin rad, works great

Aerospace Recirculating Catch Cans AC-RC - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
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Old 11-27-2016, 06:10 PM   #6 (permalink)
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What else are you is everyone using for expansion tanks?
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Old 11-27-2016, 07:10 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Expansion tank or degas bottle has the only radiator cap in the system. The radiator would be sealed with only lines to the water pump. The tank would be plumbed from the hot side of water pump then to the heater core or back to the cold side, or a T off the heater lines- or simply an appropriate size line at the top of the radiator. There would still need to be on overflow plumbed from the cap port to the BOTTOM of the overflow, so that the vacuum will draw back to the expansion tank as the system cools. Also put the steam lines back to the expansion tank as well.

This is how I intend to plumb the manche. I never had much of a heat problem in the buggy (plumbed simply with an overflow and cap on rad), but I had to top off the reservoir every time I came back to camp (ocd), just not enough space in the system. Look at any Chevrolet car or truck with a gen 3/4 engine, it's pretty evident how it's done.

Also the cooling bible gives quite a few diagrams of how to properly plumb this system.

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Old 11-27-2016, 09:40 PM   #8 (permalink)
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The simplest and most effective way is to mount the degas bottle so it is "just" higher than the engine or heater core. Run the steam port vent hose/hoses to the top of the bottle, tee the lower port (the one under water level) to the suction/water pump inlet hose or cold tank on the rad. No other caps should be in system, one additional small hose is sometimes ran from the top of the hot side tank to the top of the degas bottle to vent any trapped air in rad..
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Old 11-27-2016, 09:51 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcutler1 View Post
Expansion tank or degas bottle has the only radiator cap in the system. The radiator would be sealed with only lines to the water pump. The tank would be plumbed from the hot side of water pump then to the heater core or back to the cold side, or a T off the heater lines- or simply an appropriate size line at the top of the radiator. There would still need to be on overflow plumbed from the cap port to the BOTTOM of the overflow, so that the vacuum will draw back to the expansion tank as the system cools. Also put the steam lines back to the expansion tank as well.

This is how I intend to plumb the manche. I never had much of a heat problem in the buggy (plumbed simply with an overflow and cap on rad), but I had to top off the reservoir every time I came back to camp (ocd), just not enough space in the system. Look at any Chevrolet car or truck with a gen 3/4 engine, it's pretty evident how it's done.

Also the cooling bible gives quite a few diagrams of how to properly plumb this system.

Matt
I understand the theory behind the factory configuration, but my heater core ports are blocked and my radiator is behind the seats up high. I'm pretty much just looking for an overflow bottle for the radiator that is race legal. The overflow hose is behind the passenger headrest in this photo, it's been ran to the bottom of the chassis and looped but I want a bottle now.

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Old 11-27-2016, 11:03 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Ok, so, run from nipple on rad cap neck to bottom of bottle, vent top of can, loop it so it wont leak when you're upside down. It will push out and draw back in excess coolant as needed. I use pushlock fittings and 1/4" black air brake tubing..
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