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Old 06-08-2018, 02:04 PM   #151 (permalink)
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This came out very nice, great attention to detail!
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Old 06-25-2018, 08:06 AM   #152 (permalink)
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This came out very nice, great attention to detail!
Thanks! I am super ready to get this thing in the dirt!
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Old 06-25-2018, 08:18 AM   #153 (permalink)
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So after I got the buggy started, it was running terrible. I could barley keep it running. I made and appointment at Indiana Muscle Car to get it on the Dyno. I was a good thing I did I had all kinds of problems.

The first problem was a bad MAP Sensor. It was thinking I was at full throttle so it was just dumping fuel. The next issue was cylinders 1 & 3 were dead. Turned out to be a bad coil pack and coil pack harness. I guess these are typical problems when you buy a used engine.

I am still having problems with my O2 sensors not reading correctly. We think that it might be an issue with the harness. However we were able to get it running good.

I am planing on going to Harlan this weekend for a shake down. Well see what problems I have and go from there.

https://youtu.be/gnoCbwpWcHQ
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Old 06-25-2018, 04:43 PM   #154 (permalink)
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How many Horse Powers?
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Old 06-26-2018, 08:23 AM   #155 (permalink)
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How many Horse Powers?
I believe its 160HP at the rear wheel! Most of the focus went to reliability.
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Old 06-26-2018, 11:56 AM   #156 (permalink)
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Congrats, I've heard Justin knows what he's doing.
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Old 06-26-2018, 03:14 PM   #157 (permalink)
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Great stuff man!
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Old 06-27-2018, 08:00 AM   #158 (permalink)
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Congrats, I've heard Justin knows what he's doing.
He definitely does! I actually found them from your Instagram!


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Great stuff man!
Thanks!
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Old 07-03-2018, 06:47 AM   #159 (permalink)
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I went to Harlan KY for the buggy's shake down run! We wheeled for 2.5 days and the buggy did great. Nothing big needs changed, the biggest thing is I need to pull the Atlas and get it sealed better since the transmission is leaking from the adapters. I want to work on breaks as well. I have CNC dual masters with 3/4" bore and Chevy 3/4 ton break parts. They work ok but I would like them to be betters. If anyone has any insight it would be greatly appreciate. I also need to work on the alignment and raise the rear of the buggy about 1.5" Other than that I am supper happy!

Its definitely a great feeling to wheel this thing. It was way harder to finish than I ever imagined.
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Old 07-03-2018, 06:50 AM   #160 (permalink)
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We had a great 2.5 days on the trail. The park was completely empty which was nice to test things out.
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Old 07-03-2018, 06:57 AM   #161 (permalink)
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Old 07-03-2018, 07:50 AM   #162 (permalink)
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I went to Harlan KY for the buggy's shake down run! We wheeled for 2.5 days and the buggy did great. Nothing big needs changed, the biggest thing is I need to pull the Atlas and get it sealed better since the transmission is leaking from the adapters. I want to work on breaks as well. I have CNC dual masters with 3/4" bore and Chevy 3/4 ton break parts. They work ok but I would like them to be betters. If anyone has any insight it would be greatly appreciate. I also need to work on the alignment and raise the rear of the buggy about 1.5" Other than that I am supper happy!

Its definitely a great feeling to wheel this thing. It was way harder to finish than I ever imagined.
VERY nice, man! Its always such a great feeling to have a brand new buggy out for the first time and not have any major issues. You did a great job finishing this thing out!

I had the same brake setup and I could never get it where I wanted it. Swapped to 7/8 and 3/4 with the stock brakes and it was slightly better...but still never would stop as well as I wanted it. Then I swapped the rotors, calipers, and pads for some spidertrax / wilwood setups front and rear (same masters 3/4 and 7/8) and it will stop much much much much better now. I feel that its about as good as I will get with a manual brake setup.
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Old 07-03-2018, 08:24 AM   #163 (permalink)
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VERY nice, man! Its always such a great feeling to have a brand new buggy out for the first time and not have any major issues. You did a great job finishing this thing out!

I had the same brake setup and I could never get it where I wanted it. Swapped to 7/8 and 3/4 with the stock brakes and it was slightly better...but still never would stop as well as I wanted it. Then I swapped the rotors, calipers, and pads for some spidertrax / wilwood setups front and rear (same masters 3/4 and 7/8) and it will stop much much much much better now. I feel that its about as good as I will get with a manual brake setup.
Thanks, it is a great feeling!

I was doing some reading and it said you need to bleed both sides at the same time. Which I never did. I think I will order the 7/8 master and see if that is better. So did you have to change all your axle brackets to switch to the spidertrax / wilwood setup?
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Old 07-03-2018, 08:41 AM   #164 (permalink)
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Thanks, it is a great feeling!

I was doing some reading and it said you need to bleed both sides at the same time. Which I never did. I think I will order the 7/8 master and see if that is better. So did you have to change all your axle brackets to switch to the spidertrax / wilwood setup?
Yea, I had to make brackets for the 60 to line everything up, on the 14 bolt they are just weld on, so that was super simple. I have some pictures of it all...let me find them.

I also put the rotors/hats on the backside of the hubs and pressed the studs through, so they arent true slip on set ups...but it was easy and it works.

EDIT:

here we go:





14 bolt before the brackets went on:





the Solid 60 up front with the old 3/4 ton brackets, before swapping to the new setup:



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Old 07-03-2018, 08:56 AM   #165 (permalink)
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Old 07-03-2018, 10:33 AM   #166 (permalink)
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Yea, I had to make brackets for the 60 to line everything up, on the 14 bolt they are just weld on, so that was super simple. I have some pictures of it all...let me find them.

I also put the rotors/hats on the backside of the hubs and pressed the studs through, so they arent true slip on set ups...but it was easy and it works.

EDIT:

here we go:





14 bolt before the brackets went on:





the Solid 60 up front with the old 3/4 ton brackets, before swapping to the new setup:



Awesome! Those pictures help. The rear should be easy like you said. Its kind of hard to tell from the pictures did you just cut a new bracket that bolts behind the spindle on the front?
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Old 07-03-2018, 11:57 AM   #167 (permalink)
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Awesome! Those pictures help. The rear should be easy like you said. Its kind of hard to tell from the pictures did you just cut a new bracket that bolts behind the spindle on the front?
it doesnt bolt behind the spindle, but on the outside. Spindle slides over studs in the knuckle like normal, then the brake bracketry goes on the studs, then the nuts tighten it all up.

Since the spidertrax stuff is narrower, and also the depth is a little different with the wilwood calipers and the spidertrax hats - there are a few different sets of "spacers" that are there. I didnt want to try and mess with bent caliper brackets and getting that perfect (not to mention I dont even know if its possible to bend it in 2 planes in that short of a distance and have it sitting flat...but thats a whole different argument )

You can see all the pieces in the background there on the table...the piece under the caliper and weld on bracket is the actual brake bracket, then you see the 2 circle spacers up to the left on the table, those are two different widths (I dont remember exactly...one is .250 and one is .187 maybe?). You only use one of them to space the actual bracket out off the spindle surface to match where the caliper is. The other spacer is just a paperweight at that point.

If that makes sense?
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Old 07-03-2018, 12:16 PM   #168 (permalink)
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it doesnt bolt behind the spindle, but on the outside. Spindle slides over studs in the knuckle like normal, then the brake bracketry goes on the studs, then the nuts tighten it all up.

Since the spidertrax stuff is narrower, and also the depth is a little different with the wilwood calipers and the spidertrax hats - there are a few different sets of "spacers" that are there. I didnt want to try and mess with bent caliper brackets and getting that perfect (not to mention I dont even know if its possible to bend it in 2 planes in that short of a distance and have it sitting flat...but thats a whole different argument )

You can see all the pieces in the background there on the table...the piece under the caliper and weld on bracket is the actual brake bracket, then you see the 2 circle spacers up to the left on the table, those are two different widths (I dont remember exactly...one is .250 and one is .187 maybe?). You only use one of them to space the actual bracket out off the spindle surface to match where the caliper is. The other spacer is just a paperweight at that point.

If that makes sense?

That makes perfect sense, thanks for all the help! Did you have these cut or buy them from a company?

I think I am going to change out the front to 7/8, adjust my balance bar and try bleeding them correctly by doing both sides at the same time and see where that gets me. If they are not better I will look into moving to the spidertrax and wilwood parts.
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Old 12-31-2018, 01:20 PM   #169 (permalink)
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Any updates on this? Cool build, I ran across this due to your posts in the GJ welding projects thread.
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Old 01-01-2019, 08:14 PM   #170 (permalink)
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Wow never thought I would see you out on the trail wheeling aging.... The buggy came out awesome!!!!!
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Old 01-02-2019, 07:42 AM   #171 (permalink)
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Any updates on this? Cool build, I ran across this due to your posts in the GJ welding projects thread.
Thanks Man! I have not been to GJ in a minute!

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Wow never thought I would see you out on the trail wheeling aging.... The buggy came out awesome!!!!!
lol...that was harsh!

Thanks I am really happy with it so far. Its been done for 6 months and I went on 4 trips so I am pretty happy with that. Hopefully do more this year!

I need to tear apart the engine though. On my last trip the engine started making noise. It sounds like its in the valve train but I have not confirmed that yet. I will hopefully get back up and running soon.
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Old 01-02-2019, 09:36 AM   #172 (permalink)
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Any issues with the radiator blowing on the fuel tank? I see lots of chatter of it causing issues, just wondering how it is real world.
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Old 01-02-2019, 10:55 AM   #173 (permalink)
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Any issues with the radiator blowing on the fuel tank? I see lots of chatter of it causing issues, just wondering how it is real world.
I have had no issue with that. I went on multiple trips when it was in the 90's. I do wish I had a bigger radiator with two fans. It does get hot when I beat on it for a little bit. However if I stop it cools down rather quickly.
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Old 01-02-2019, 02:12 PM   #174 (permalink)
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Awesome work man - it turned out awesome. I blew the output shaft in my Toyota doubler t-case on Mason Jar at Harlan so I'm completely changing it up. What flex plate did you go with for your 5.3L?
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Old 01-03-2019, 11:00 AM   #175 (permalink)
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Awesome work man - it turned out awesome. I blew the output shaft in my Toyota doubler t-case on Mason Jar at Harlan so I'm completely changing it up. What flex plate did you go with for your 5.3L?
I just used a factory flex plate. I bought a converter from PTC with extra stick out so I do not have to run the adapter piece.
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