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Old 04-05-2016, 05:38 PM   #126 (permalink)
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i thought about this too, however i have witnessed a few vehicles at multiple events that needed a pump or sold the spare. i wanted to be able to go to auto zone, orileys etc and just install it. i got a steel frangola fitting that is 6.97 from summit. the fitting will sit about the same height as a weld on, and im sure you could even force it into a un tapped pump if the need arised.
Got a link to the fitting? Do you have to open up the water pump neck after removing the stock steel nipple? Where do you get the tap?

hijack over
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Old 04-05-2016, 05:43 PM   #127 (permalink)
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Got a link to the fitting? Do you have to open up the water pump neck after removing the stock steel nipple? Where do you get the tap?

hijack over
No hijack....I am interested in a breakdown as well.
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Old 04-06-2016, 02:04 AM   #128 (permalink)
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on the pumps i have i didnt need to open them up. they actually neck down a tiny bit from what you can see.

the fitting is from frangola

Fragola Performance Systems AN to Pipe Thread Fittings 581616 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

and the tap i got from HF in a cheap kit.

i do have to warn you that i havent tapped the pumps. for one i will be getting a new pump before she is road ready, and i half expect the HF tap to let go.

but i have a -16 weld on fitting and if i were to flush mount it, the heights would be +- 1/16 from each other


i will try to get some pics tomorrow, but since i forgot to fix my red star i may have to link them
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Old 04-06-2016, 01:28 PM   #129 (permalink)
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on the pumps i have i didnt need to open them up. they actually neck down a tiny bit from what you can see.

the fitting is from frangola

Fragola Performance Systems AN to Pipe Thread Fittings 581616 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

and the tap i got from HF in a cheap kit.

i do have to warn you that i havent tapped the pumps. for one i will be getting a new pump before she is road ready, and i half expect the HF tap to let go.

but i have a -16 weld on fitting and if i were to flush mount it, the heights would be +- 1/16 from each other


i will try to get some pics tomorrow, but since i forgot to fix my red star i may have to link them
Thx for the link to that fitting. I guess the only thing I seem to think differently is that a weld on bung is easily going to be lower profile than the fitting posted.

However, the more I look at the truck water pumps from 2003 and earlier...it looks as if I could even drill out the boss on the front of the upper port and have the fitting welded on there similar to a car pump to avoid interference with my TB.

Of course this route would mean that I need to plug the stock upper port after the factory neck is pulled out of it.
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Old 06-21-2016, 12:14 PM   #130 (permalink)
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Bump for some progress..
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Old 06-21-2016, 04:20 PM   #131 (permalink)
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Bump for some progress..
Not much to show. Been busy putting up new shelving in the garage and ordering more parts for the build.

One thing I have done is something no one will see. I put a frame under the rear seat for lap and submarine belts. It is so close to the upper links at full stuff I can only fit sheets of paper in between it and the links.
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Old 06-21-2016, 04:23 PM   #132 (permalink)
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I also saw fit to put a support tube to the rear frame rails where the previously mentioned seatbelt cage lives...this will also provide support/disbursement of the load when the rear comes down hard on the bumps.
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Old 06-21-2016, 04:30 PM   #133 (permalink)
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Oh yah...I moved the tran cooler again. I put it under the rear floor in a trade off to give the rear passengers more foot room.

Let's hope I don't lose a driveshaft...sh$t is tight!
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Old 06-21-2016, 04:32 PM   #134 (permalink)
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Keep in mind this is the biggest stacked plate cooler Derale makes.

Picture is at full compression
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Old 06-21-2016, 08:20 PM   #135 (permalink)
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Bump for some progress..
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Old 06-22-2016, 06:20 AM   #136 (permalink)
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^ wrong Scott

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Old 06-22-2016, 06:21 AM   #137 (permalink)
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Old 06-22-2016, 11:54 AM   #138 (permalink)
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Boom!! ha ha
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Old 06-27-2016, 01:44 PM   #139 (permalink)
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Looking at a rear sway bar and wanted some feedback.

Due to me out boarding the rear bumps I am going wider with the rear sway bar...either a 39" bar with 19" arms...or a 42" bar with 22" arms.

The wider the bar, the longer the arm I can run. Right now, with how it is all setup, I am looking at a 42" TK1 bar with his 22" billet arms; 35 spline.

Here is the question: as far as profile goes on the bar itself, I was thinking 1.25" would be a good starting point from what I have been reading...possibly a 1.125"

Thoughts?
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Old 06-29-2016, 07:06 PM   #140 (permalink)
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Whelp, after discussing my rear swaybar options with Tony @ TK1, we decided on a 42"L 1.5"D 35 spline bar profiled to 1.25 with a billet 7075 20" arm. Should clear everything nicely and keep the rear planted.

I contacted J.E. Reel about a midship stub shaft (spicer 3-53-2541) and their pillow block that will work with it. I threw on a 29 spline toyota flange and started measuring.

Is everyone happy with their carrier bearing/flange being behind the front lower link mounting point by a few inches? Seems to be where people are mounting it with success.

The rest is how the subframe will be braced and have a removable portion for service and R/R of the tranny. Still finishing that up.
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Old 07-15-2016, 07:25 AM   #141 (permalink)
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Slapped together my front driveline with the parts from J.E. Reel, my carrier bearing is an emulation of what I have seen on the board from Drew @ Goatbuilt. Bushed at both ends, and the angles turned out titties imho.
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Old 07-15-2016, 07:57 AM   #142 (permalink)
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Next up was the rear swaybar.

I went with a 42" 35 spline 1.5" swaybar turned down to 1.25

As the bumpstops went in, width increased and moved me away from the run of the mill 32" Currie bar. I needed a long arm...around 20" +/- since the rear travel numbers are around that. The need for a longer arm made me go even wider with the swaybar due to the rear tubework for clearance issues.

At any rate, Tony @ TK1 makes some kick ass products. These arms are 1.25" thick with tons of spline engagement.
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Old 07-15-2016, 08:49 AM   #143 (permalink)
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^^I forgot to add that there will be a removable spare tire/bumper combo on the rear of the chassis...so that should help with smoothing out any unbalanced proportions that you can visually see above with the swaybar width vs the rear chassis width.
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Old 07-15-2016, 06:01 PM   #144 (permalink)
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I think I am gonna have to build some mounts for the sway bar rods that extend further forward on the axle...not sure if this angle is gonna affect performance drastically or not?
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Old 08-07-2016, 07:42 PM   #145 (permalink)
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I got some time in the garage this Sunday, nothing special. Just finished out the passenger compartment with some tubes that tie in the coil carrier mount to the rest of the chassis.

Because of the funky notches, I decided to just use some cardboard from a paper towel roll to make a template that I could reverse to make a mirror image. Once I got it close, I would make another template of the completed side to make the opposite quicker. Left the notcher on the sideline this time.
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Old 08-07-2016, 07:47 PM   #146 (permalink)
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Fin
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Old 08-10-2016, 12:22 PM   #147 (permalink)
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I think I am gonna have to build some mounts for the sway bar rods that extend further forward on the axle...not sure if this angle is gonna affect performance drastically or not?
Trying to figure out that sway bar is making my head hurt...

I'm probably way off base but I think something like a digressive shock is happening here. For each inch the axle moves up the end of the arm will move up a fraction of an inch, the bigger the angle the smaller the fraction. This is going to create a non linear change in the roll bar stiffness. You can really see this in the post above at full bump.

I think you want the sway bar links vertical otherwise tuning is going to be impossible.
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Old 08-10-2016, 01:07 PM   #148 (permalink)
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Trying to figure out that sway bar is making my head hurt...

I'm probably way off base but I think something like a digressive shock is happening here. For each inch the axle moves up the end of the arm will move up a fraction of an inch, the bigger the angle the smaller the fraction. This is going to create a non linear change in the roll bar stiffness. You can really see this in the post above at full bump.

I think you want the sway bar links vertical otherwise tuning is going to be impossible.
So this is the type of feedback I was soliciting earlier in the thread; thank you.

I agree that having the connecting links more perpendicular at ride height will help, but I have no real world experience saying so. Tony @ Tk1 took a look at the pictures and said it was a non-issue. I think he dismissed the angle due to the fact that the sway bar is attached at one point to the bar, and then again at the connecting link...the force pushing upwards at a given velocity will be the same always unless spring rates are changed, valving, or weight. Right?

The change in force applied to the end of the sway bar where the connecting link attaches will most likely be negligible within a certain change of angle for the connecting link; however I feel that this "poor" angle will put undue stress on hardware that can be avoided if I fixed the angles a bit.

I probably am making zero sense and am way off ...

...I am hoping for some educated feedback on this issue if anyone else cares to share.
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Old 08-10-2016, 04:36 PM   #149 (permalink)
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I probably am making zero sense and am way off ...
No, you are making sense, but this is hard to analyze.

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...the force pushing upwards at a given velocity will be the same always unless spring rates are changed, valving, or weight. Right?
Wrong. From the sway bar's perspective velocity, spring rate, valving and weight don't matter.

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I agree that having the connecting links more perpendicular at ride height will help, but I have no real world experience saying so. Tony @ Tk1 took a look at the pictures and said it was a non-issue. I think he dismissed the angle due to the fact that the sway bar is attached at one point to the bar, and then again at the connecting link.

The change in force applied to the end of the sway bar where the connecting link attaches will most likely be negligible within a certain change of angle for the connecting link; however I feel that this "poor" angle will put undue stress on hardware that can be avoided if I fixed the angles a bit.
I'm not part of the go-fast crowd, but to me that sway bar seems very stiff. So I assume the idea is to keep the chassis more or less flat, meaning the sway bar links will have the same angle on each side. However, that angle will change dramatically as the suspension cycles over whoops. So, if the idea is to have very little flex, then I agree with the above analysis.

But if you will have flex then I'm not sure. From the sway bar point of view, the force perpendicular to the arms will be equal but opposite. If the suspension flexes, then the angle of the links will be different side-to-side, as seen at full bump. This means the force vector is substantially different and I have a feeling that different vertical loads are delivered to the axle.

If you can mock up the suspension when flexed and provide the angle of both arms AND both links I think I can give you an accurate answer. I expect you will have to re-index the bar on one arm to do this...
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Old 08-10-2016, 05:17 PM   #150 (permalink)
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If you can mock up the suspension when flexed and provide the angle of both arms AND both links I think I can give you an accurate answer. I expect you will have to re-index the bar on one arm to do this...
It will be a bit before I put springs on it, I appreciate the offer tho.

This is all new territory for myself as well so I am trying to learn. I am wanting to go quick in the rough, but still have enough flex to go wheel with my buddies and not be held up. It won't be a cone dodger by any means but that's ok.

I can always have the bar turned down from its minor of 1.25 if we find it to be too stiff.

All I do know is that a sway bar is always trying to keep the chassis and the axle parallel. I will most likely be changing the location of the link end at the axle side to help with this angle at ride height.
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