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Old 09-03-2017, 07:23 AM   #1126 (permalink)
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Fawk brakes!!!
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Old 09-03-2017, 07:39 AM   #1127 (permalink)
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Fawk brakes!!!
Trying something new... brakes on command, the latest and greatest... pedal on passenger side, and tell that lazy sob sitting there to hit them...

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Old 09-03-2017, 08:00 AM   #1128 (permalink)
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Trying something new... brakes on command, the latest and greatest... pedal on passenger side, and tell that lazy sob sitting there to hit them...
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Old 09-03-2017, 08:57 AM   #1129 (permalink)
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Got cold feet........ummm no.
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Old 09-03-2017, 04:34 PM   #1130 (permalink)
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Old 09-03-2017, 06:10 PM   #1131 (permalink)
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In the first pic, the bead roll section looks "recessed". On the last pic, it looks "raised". Don't know which way I like it better.
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Old 09-03-2017, 06:11 PM   #1132 (permalink)
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In the first pic, the bead roll section looks "recessed". On the last pic, it looks "raised". Don't know which way I like it better.
It's both, upper shelf is raised, vertical plane is recessed.

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Old 09-03-2017, 06:14 PM   #1133 (permalink)
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What are your plans to deal with the header heat?

I almost hate checking in on your thread, makes me want to go out to my shop and burn my Jeep to the ground. Fantastic craftsmanship you have there.
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Old 09-03-2017, 06:41 PM   #1134 (permalink)
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Thanks guys


Burning that midnight oil and shit...

I bet the oil smells better
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Old 09-03-2017, 07:34 PM   #1135 (permalink)
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What are your plans to deal with the header heat?

I almost hate checking in on your thread, makes me want to go out to my shop and burn my Jeep to the ground. Fantastic craftsmanship you have there.
thanks gt-1!

Lol. That has probably been the most talked about 'issue' of the build. Honestly I had zero air gap in my previous buggy, and yes it got warm... but I only touched bare skin one time... that's all it took, lol. This truck will have a 1-2" air gap around the header, wrapping the outer tube and insulating the backside of the panel. I will even have room to double wall with insulation if I see the need.

It's really hard to get the perspective in pictures, especially since you guys can't read my mind and see my blueprint in my head.
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I bet the oil smells better
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Old 09-04-2017, 04:35 PM   #1136 (permalink)
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Hammer down; plumbing and wiring party this weekend with [USER=6153]@Paul[/USER], [USER=3094]@ol'Jeeps[/USER], and [USER=35]@jeepn-jason[/USER] - everything needs to have a home by then, except for interior panels; I'll complete those once she's cranked...




























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Old 09-04-2017, 06:51 PM   #1137 (permalink)
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Looks nice. Will the Guage panel be rubber mounted?
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Old 09-04-2017, 06:53 PM   #1138 (permalink)
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Looks nice. Will the Guage panel be rubber mounted?
If it goes the way I think it will tonight, it will be floating between the first A pillar at left and the windshield bar on right; with a small scalloped tab at the column notch.

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Old 09-05-2017, 01:24 PM   #1139 (permalink)
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so... why gloshift?
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Old 09-05-2017, 02:11 PM   #1140 (permalink)
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so... why gloshift?
Main reason is the dual analog and digital readout on the max tow series; the digital is easier to glance at in duress, but the analog looks better.... I used then in my previous buggy with good service.

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Old 09-05-2017, 02:30 PM   #1141 (permalink)
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thanks gt-1!

Lol. That has probably been the most talked about 'issue' of the build. Honestly I had zero air gap in my previous buggy, and yes it got warm... but I only touched bare skin one time... that's all it took, lol. This truck will have a 1-2" air gap around the header, wrapping the outer tube and insulating the backside of the panel. I will even have room to double wall with insulation if I see the need.
Sounds like you've had plenty of thought into a plan, but here's what worked for me in my build with a nearly identical issue (cab build, engine pushed 2/3rds way into the cab, minimal distance between ankle/shield/header).
  • DEI Floor and tunnel shield
  • HVAC tape to seal the edges from dirt/dust (specifically Nashua 324A)
  • Cowl "scoop" to force air over the backside of the engine

Like I said, sounds like you're covered, but that heat shield has done me well. I have about a .25" airgap at a couple spots and the shield has held up great. If it does get hot even with insulation (as it did with me) I built a cheezy scoop right in front of my windshield tubes that forces air down over the engine. Helps a lot at sustained high speed.
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Old 09-05-2017, 03:09 PM   #1142 (permalink)
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Sounds like you've had plenty of thought into a plan, but here's what worked for me in my build with a nearly identical issue (cab build, engine pushed 2/3rds way into the cab, minimal distance between ankle/shield/header).
  • DEI Floor and tunnel shield
  • HVAC tape to seal the edges from dirt/dust (specifically Nashua 324A)
  • Cowl "scoop" to force air over the backside of the engine

Like I said, sounds like you're covered, but that heat shield has done me well. I have about a .25" airgap at a couple spots and the shield has held up great. If it does get hot even with insulation (as it did with me) I built a cheezy scoop right in front of my windshield tubes that forces air down over the engine. Helps a lot at sustained high speed.
Thanks wubsor!

I will be using something like this, and they're will be a hood vent above air cleaner near the back of the hood.

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Old 09-05-2017, 03:20 PM   #1143 (permalink)
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Finished the gauge cluster and mount this afternoon




























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Old 09-05-2017, 03:59 PM   #1144 (permalink)
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my cab is hot as fuck, mainly because it is semi-open. My plan is to rip out the seats and seal everything up the best as possible. will the stuff linked above work better on the underside (engine side) of the panel? I dont plan on taking the engine out, but can remove the panels and apply some heat shield if need be.
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Old 09-05-2017, 04:07 PM   #1145 (permalink)
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my cab is hot as fuck, mainly because it is semi-open. My plan is to rip out the seats and seal everything up the best as possible. will the stuff linked above work better on the underside (engine side) of the panel? I dont plan on taking the engine out, but can remove the panels and apply some heat shield if need be.
All info I've looked at for many brands is the shielding goes on the hot side of a panel, except for some obscure stuff.

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Old 09-05-2017, 05:25 PM   #1146 (permalink)
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Love the look of your panel. But I don't see how you get access to work on it. I hope you don't have to work on it after initial wiring, but that what we always said building helicopters. Eventually, we started putting hinges on em'. Which vibrates more, helicopters or off road trucks, hmmmm.

You could put a cannon plug on the side. Then just pull the whole pod when you need to work on it. But it's nice to have it plugged in sometimes when troubleshooting.

Don't mind my ramblings. Keep up the good work.
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Old 09-05-2017, 05:31 PM   #1147 (permalink)
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Love the look of your panel. But I don't see how you get access to work on it. I hope you don't have to work on it after initial wiring, but that what we always said building helicopters. Eventually, we started putting hinges on em'. Which vibrates more, helicopters or off road trucks, hmmmm.

You could put a cannon plug on the side. Then just pull the whole pod when you need to work on it. But it's nice to have it plugged in sometimes when troubleshooting.

Don't mind my ramblings. Keep up the good work.
Thanks.

Yes its getting a weatherpack cannon plug with about a 12" whip. It's stupid easy to get it off the column, 2 screws front and 4 rear, slips right out, then you can pull the 6 screws from the rear access panel for work. Thought about hinges and quarter turns for the rear panel, but this was a more stable mounting.

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Old 09-05-2017, 06:18 PM   #1148 (permalink)
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So when are you gonna come help me with my cj7 inner fenders and new dash hahahaha.

For reals though bough matt, you keep fukin blowing my mind with this shit dude.


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Old 09-06-2017, 12:16 PM   #1149 (permalink)
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so... why gloshift?
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Main reason is the dual analog and digital readout on the max tow series; the digital is easier to glance at in duress, but the analog looks better.... I used then in my previous buggy with good service.

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Was waiting for that - everyone seems to badmouth those gauges on the diesel side, but I haven't been impressed with Autometer either. Might run them in the next rig.
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Old 09-06-2017, 01:49 PM   #1150 (permalink)
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Was waiting for that - everyone seems to badmouth those gauges on the diesel side, but I haven't been impressed with Autometer either. Might run them in the next rig.
you should do it and sell me your autometers super cheap since they are not impressive
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