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Old 04-28-2018, 02:00 PM   #126 (permalink)
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Not the greatest welds, but was trying to cram my head between the links and rear driveshaft - just wanted to get most of it burned in. Any remaining welds or plates that need to be added can be done down the line when it's on the lift again...










Also got a couple more tubes tacked into the rear cage (diagonals in the back):





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Old 04-30-2018, 06:03 PM   #127 (permalink)
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Bad ass build. Cant wait to see the final product.
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Old 04-30-2018, 09:56 PM   #128 (permalink)
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Damn, looks great. Nice work.
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Old 05-01-2018, 11:05 AM   #129 (permalink)
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No ones got an opinion on rear shocks, huh. Anyone running longer than 14 in the rear, and glad they didnt limit themselves to something shorter?
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Old 05-01-2018, 11:39 AM   #130 (permalink)
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Ill check and see what I am running at home, it is a 14-16 shock and coil setup, not coilover. But I have never wanted more than it has(i.e 18")
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Old 05-02-2018, 10:24 AM   #131 (permalink)
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Performance vs. pure race

On identifying Performance vs. Pure Race Kings:

Performance:
Large " or 7/8" diameter shafts have a tensile strength of 100,000 pounds per square inch. They are hard chromed to combat rock bruising and micro-polished to a 6 RA finish for extended seal life.
King Shocks Performance Race Series Coilover « King Off-Road Racing Shocks : kingshocks.com

Pure Race:
Large 7/8" or 1" diameter shafts have a tensile strength of 100,000 pounds per square inch. They are induction hardened to 55-60 on the Rockwell scale to combat rock bruising and micro-polished to a 6 RA finish for extended seal life.
Pure Race Series Coilover Shocks « King Off-Road Racing Shocks : kingshocks.com

So the easiest way to identify seems to me shaft diameter.
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Old 05-02-2018, 02:27 PM   #132 (permalink)
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No ones got an opinion on rear shocks, huh. Anyone running longer than 14” in the rear, and glad they didn’t limit themselves to something shorter?
I think if you can use the travel then why not use longer shocks? In a situation where you're only gonna use 4' uptravel then Id say keep the 14s but if you are planning to run the shocks in the middle of their travel then why not have more up and plenty down?

Now if this is gonna be a serious trail rig with a body then your choice of running the shocks in the center of their travel will likely need you to have some kind of sway bar to control the body sway even at slow trail speeds.

Clear as mud?

What is your wheelbase?
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Old 05-02-2018, 05:39 PM   #133 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by virgilwalker1 View Post
On identifying Performance vs. Pure Race Kings:

Performance:
Large " or 7/8" diameter shafts have a tensile strength of 100,000 pounds per square inch. They are hard chromed to combat rock bruising and micro-polished to a 6 RA finish for extended seal life.
King Shocks Performance Race Series Coilover « King Off-Road Racing Shocks : kingshocks.com

Pure Race:
Large 7/8" or 1" diameter shafts have a tensile strength of 100,000 pounds per square inch. They are induction hardened to 55-60 on the Rockwell scale to combat rock bruising and micro-polished to a 6 RA finish for extended seal life.
Pure Race Series Coilover Shocks « King Off-Road Racing Shocks : kingshocks.com

So the easiest way to identify seems to me shaft diameter.
Which means it's probably 7/8" and could be either. You don't even know the diameter of your own shaft?

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Old 05-02-2018, 06:11 PM   #134 (permalink)
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No ones got an opinion on rear shocks, huh. Anyone running longer than 14” in the rear, and glad they didn’t limit themselves to something shorter?
"I read on the internet" because i don't have anything to really base big shock experience against, that bigger is better if for nothing else than fluid capacity. i've also read that shocks are generally happiest running mid travel, plus or minus a couple inches.

so base shock length off intended travel, with uptravel generally being more limiting. obviously based on shock travel location, don't care that you get 20" from the fender

2-3" up, 6" shock
3-4" = 8" shock
4-5" = 10"
5-6" = 12"
6-7" = 14"
7-8" = 16"
8-9" = 18"
etc.

from there, intended use and weight dictate diameter etc.

this post is loosely based on things i've read specifically from filthy motorsports and their crawlpedia.com and generally reinforced by others.

downtravel doesn't much matter because there isn't usually much weight on the low hanging tire, low weight = low traction = not good for much

so sure, if you can fit it; have at it

edit: followed by a "this is what you get for questioning why nobody has an opinion, you seem to have a good idea already"
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Old 05-06-2018, 11:06 AM   #135 (permalink)
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No ones got an opinion on rear shocks, huh. Anyone running longer than 14 in the rear, and glad they didnt limit themselves to something shorter?
I dont recommend longer than a 14 inch coilover really, they get hard to spring especially on a light weight rig. Yours may be heavier than the average crawler, so 16s will work. Stick with 2.5s, better damping and resistance to spring bow, since you can run an 18/18 spring on a 2.5 16 c/o.

If you were wanting 2.0s, make sure you get a bypass also for desert running.


Edit: Also pay attention to your rear driveline droop, that may be your limiting factor on your downtravel.

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Old 12-31-2018, 07:13 AM   #136 (permalink)
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updates?
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Old 01-02-2019, 04:57 AM   #137 (permalink)
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x2!!!!!!
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Old 01-09-2019, 11:25 PM   #138 (permalink)
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Sadly, not much to update. Got the engine back though! Looking sweet!
I'll be back to working on this a lot more after KOH...

Sniper Hyperspark EFI - known to definitely cause nut cancer maybe



Camshaft specs:




Brodix aluminum heads, etc. Pics:










Whole engine was gone through... Ended up getting a smaller diameter harmonic on there, camshaft pulley will most likely be getting replaced with smaller diameter as well, resulting in just a LITTLE bit more uptravel. I've got a video of the engine running on the stand, but I'll have to dig it up and post it later
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Old 01-10-2019, 08:28 PM   #139 (permalink)
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Video is pretty poor quality, but you get the idea...

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Old 01-11-2019, 04:27 AM   #140 (permalink)
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why so small cam
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Old 01-12-2019, 08:41 AM   #141 (permalink)
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Very impressive, can't wait to see more. Planning to reuse the factory floor in the back or fab new?
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Old 05-04-2019, 03:48 PM   #142 (permalink)
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Very impressive, can't wait to see more. Planning to reuse the factory floor in the back or fab new?
Saved the factory floor thinking it might look cool to use, but just going with new...


Updates: Got some more tube figured out in the rear, as well as located the rear shocks. These are KING 18" shocks. Lower mounts pretty much done now, uppers have temp mounts but need to be built still.

Trying to figure out where the shocks will fit without running into the tires or rear seat:






Decisions, decisions. Decided to mock it up on paper to have something to work from:




Final placement, lower mounts tacked it:






Little CAD work for rear tube:








Tube in place. The bent tube contacting the tire got cut back out - going to have to figure something else out there. Shit's tight!



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Old 05-04-2019, 03:56 PM   #143 (permalink)
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Flex check! And measuring for rear bump cans/landing pads:






FOA's doing what they do. Surprised there's still oil in them, they've both been leaking so bad. Hopefully once they're pressurized they'll not leak? But may need to replace seals later on, or just replace... These are brand new, never used.



Anyway, got the bump cans and landing pads all finish welded, but I'll have to snag some pics of those later. In full tilt now to get the entire shop packed up and moved to a new location. If anyone is interested in a badass property with shop building on it in the Bakersfield area, all of this is for sale

For sale listing:
https://www.zillow.com/homes/5750-Co...67142962_zpid/




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Old 05-05-2019, 12:21 PM   #144 (permalink)
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Sweet build!
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