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Old 03-30-2004, 03:34 PM   #1 (permalink)
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How do you store your metal?

Searching yielded nothing. Show me pics of your metal storage racks. I gotta get this tube off the floor of my garage!
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Old 03-30-2004, 04:13 PM   #2 (permalink)
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all of my new high $$ DOM tube is stored either on my garage floor under my boat, or in my 6" PVC tubes with end caps on both
ends... oiled when stored.. these are mounted on brackets just
under the roof eaves on my garage.....

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Old 03-30-2004, 05:02 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by SHERPA
6" PVC tubes with end caps on both
ends... oiled when stored.. these are mounted on brackets just
under the roof eaves on my garage.....

--sherpa
That's a pretty cool idea
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Old 03-30-2004, 07:13 PM   #4 (permalink)
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look at all that junk
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Old 03-30-2004, 07:31 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Haven't quite gotten there yet, but unless I hear a better idea..

My new shop is 28' deep. The work bay has a pretty shallow stub of wall between the door and wall, shallow enough I don't intend to put equipment down that wall - I need the room just to walk around the rig.

However, I think I'l use that same wall for steel storage.

My plan is to get some of the slotted shelf "system" uprights from Home Depot and mount to every stud down that wall (~14 of 'em), from just off the floor up to the 6' mark or so (I have a window in the wall, probably bring it up about even with the bottom of the window, and then just put fixed shelves above the window).

Idea is to get some of the shelf brackets that snap into the slots, then add some hooks/ends to 'em to catch the tube.

Then toss full sticks of tubing on the "empty" shelf brackets (no real shelf)

The slotted track setup will let me adjust the whole setup as needed to accomodate whatever I'm stocking up on at the time. I can make short "shelves" for smaller pieces, longer areas for full sticks, tall or short sections depending on quantities, etc.

Should keep the steel up off the floor, and I can't use the wall for much else anyhow..
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Old 03-30-2004, 07:41 PM   #6 (permalink)
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On the wall
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Old 03-30-2004, 07:50 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I'd be real careful about using residential shelving track and brackets to support the weight of tubing, angle or whatever. Also, 6' up in the air is going to provide alot of leverage against wood screws into studs, whether metal or wood.
I'd opt for a free standing floor rack that would occupy the same amount of real estate. This is very easy to mmake.
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Old 03-30-2004, 08:27 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Kaiser5
I'd be real careful about using residential shelving track and brackets to support the weight of tubing, angle or whatever. Also, 6' up in the air is going to provide alot of leverage against wood screws into studs, whether metal or wood.
I'd opt for a free standing floor rack that would occupy the same amount of real estate. This is very easy to mmake.
So in your world, would having the shelfs only 4' up in the air produce less leverage?

Just curious.



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Old 03-30-2004, 08:39 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I dont have a picture but I welded some 12 inch rods to an old frame and leaned it against the out side of the shop. It is under the eave and stays pretty dry and off the ground. Cheap and easy, just the way I like em....
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Old 03-30-2004, 08:53 PM   #10 (permalink)
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There are some ideas in this thread......

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...ighlight=racks
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Old 03-31-2004, 06:06 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by jca
On the wall
Ditto

a hard to see in this pic, but all mine is on back wall of shop.

I just used 2x4's to make wall mount.
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Old 03-31-2004, 06:15 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Travis Waldher


So in your world, would having the shelfs only 4' up in the air produce less leverage?

Just curious.

I was wondering the same thing
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Old 03-31-2004, 07:15 AM   #13 (permalink)
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floor mount rack up against the wall.

shitty pic, but its the only one i could find.
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Old 03-31-2004, 08:20 AM   #14 (permalink)
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All of our longer or more expensive peices are stored on the shop floor, no matter what we do it will rust. So all the scraps(4' or less gets put in my failed attempt of a bed bob

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Old 03-31-2004, 08:38 AM   #15 (permalink)
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I used some wood to built a rack on the back wall of my shop (30' long) that will hold about five 20 foot sticks of 1 3/4" tube. The tubes all sit one on top of the other, so there is little leverage, just the loaded weight.
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Old 03-31-2004, 09:03 AM   #16 (permalink)
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This is what we use...they also work good for storeing the flat plate we use on our CNC plasma table. Its a little large for a home shop though.
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Old 03-31-2004, 09:29 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by InsaneEd
I dont have a picture but I welded some 12 inch rods to an old frame and leaned it against the out side of the shop. It is under the eave and stays pretty dry and off the ground. Cheap and easy, just the way I like em....
This is almost exactly what I'm considering. I've got two Ford frames here.........I'm thinking lean them together to form an "A", weld them together like that, then weld horizontal arms off the framerails on each side. Cheap, easy A-frame rack and it gets cool points for being made of truck frames.
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Old 04-01-2004, 11:20 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Kaiser5
I'd be real careful about using residential shelving track and brackets to support the weight of tubing, angle or whatever.
Well, I was hoping to go with the heaviest class of stuff I could find.. the one that comes to mind sports 600lbs per shelf-bracket ratings, and if I put a vertical track on each stud and run it at least 25' for full sticks of tube, that's 13 or so studs/uprights and 13 or so brackets at 600lbs per..

Seems the 2x6 wall studs would be my weak link.

A full stick of 2"x.120 weighs what.. between 50 and 75lbs? (2.x per foot, IIRC).

Quote:

Also, 6' up in the air is going to provide alot of leverage against wood screws into studs, whether metal or wood.
I'd opt for a free standing floor rack that would occupy the same amount of real estate. This is very easy to mmake.
In theory the loads will mostly be vertical, putting the nails/screws in shear, and trying to compress the 2x6 stud vertically..

----

All of this talk of frames..

I built my tire rack out of a spare Scout II frame.. cut the ends and narrowed it, added some legs, called it a day. Heavy, though.

I've been thinking of using something like a frame (or plain old 3x3 or so square tubing) and burying it vertically in the ground behind the shop.

Then use extra chunks of frame/tube to add "branches" to the uprights.

Then load the extra axle housings.

Keep 'em up out of the snow, and take up less space, and a lot less tripping on them.
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Old 04-01-2004, 12:27 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by tsm1mt


Well, I was hoping to go with the heaviest class of stuff I could find.. the one that comes to mind sports 600lbs per shelf-bracket ratings, and if I put a vertical track on each stud and run it at least 25' for full sticks of tube, that's 13 or so studs/uprights and 13 or so brackets at 600lbs per..
That is a lot of shelf brackets I'd do something more like every 4' and that should be plenty enough. That would get you about 6 brackets per shelf.

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Old 04-01-2004, 12:57 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
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That is a lot of shelf brackets I'd do something more like every 4' and that should be plenty enough. That would get you about 6 brackets per shelf.
I agree, 6 per "shelf" of tube should be fine. I can add more if I have to.

I'm considering "tracks" on each stud for other reasons though.. it would let me mix and match shorter and/or taller lengths to accomodate cut pieces in any combination I choose.

Say, 30" long pieces..

..'course, we'll see how I feel about that when I'm at HD with cash in hand..
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