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Old 04-01-2004, 12:41 AM   #1 (permalink)
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th350 questions

I'v been looking for online instructions for swaping output shafts in a th350 and hav'nt found any.
Mainly want to see if theres any special tools that i will need like bearing pullers or seperators etc.
Also the th350 I hav has a plug on the side for a connector wich I think is for locking up the TQ, am I able just to wire it up to switch for driving on the highway?
any links or info would be great

thanks
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Old 04-01-2004, 04:16 AM   #2 (permalink)
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No special tools needed other than a decent set of snap-ring pliers. Dunno about the torque converter plug though, I always wondered myself when I had an auto.
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Old 04-01-2004, 08:24 AM   #3 (permalink)
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cool thanks
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Old 04-01-2004, 09:47 AM   #4 (permalink)
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you'll need a 3 legged tool to compress the reverse piston in the bottom (rear) of the case to get the last snap ring out. I made my own out of a flat sided washer and a big nut, and 3 smaller bolts welded to the nut to sit around the snap ring. There is also a tricky little snap ring in the center (can't remember if it is on a clutch pack or planetary.) You will need a small pick set or a small set of snap ring pliers.
Hope it helps
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Old 04-01-2004, 10:06 AM   #5 (permalink)
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What purpose do you have in doing this? Reason I ask is that I was going to put a TH350/NP208 combo together, but found a Toy T-case adapter at the last minute & went that way. Still have the correct 350/NP208 shaft at home, new in the box. Would like to be rid of it.

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Old 04-01-2004, 01:34 PM   #6 (permalink)
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thanks for the info

i got a shity 4wd trans and a good rebuilt 2wd trans so i just need to put the 4wd output shaft into the 2wd trans then i can bolt up my novak adapter too it

anyone know about the TQ?
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Old 04-01-2004, 07:18 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Bump.

Interested in the TQ question too.
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Old 04-02-2004, 12:00 AM   #8 (permalink)
 
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In order to swap output shafts in a th350 you will need to remove the front pump and valve body from the transmission. Reason you need to remove the valve body is because there is an accumulator piston that actuates the band and holds the band in place sort of. When you remove the valve body you will find some checkballs will fall out. These need to be put back in the exact same place they came from. A good way to tell if your not sure where they go is to look on the seperator plate and you will find some larger holes look like they had a little ball pounding against them for years. Hold the plate to the case and those holes will tell you where the balls go.
Now remove the pump, it has an o-ring around the outside diameter of it and makes it hard to pull out. If you look around the shifter linkage in the case you will see some clutch plates. You can take a large screwdriver and pry against these(not to hard) to help remove the pump. if you have a wooden bench with a hole about 2" in diameter the next part will be ALOT easier. Set the trany on the bench with the output shaft through the hole.remove first set of clutch plates and backing ring. note one steel ring is a wavy plate,note where it goes. Look down in the trany and you will see the band. Get a screw driver and wiggle it outta there. Now grab the input shaft and pull the two drums out, its heavy. Now you can see a set of planetary gears,pul it out and note the thrust washers on it. Now you can see the inner planet gears,in the center is the output shaft. It has a snapring holding the planetary assy on it. After removing the snapring, remove the planetary assy. and the sun gear shell.
Now theres a big snapring holding the low reverse roller clutch in the case Its at the edge of the steel clutch and engauged in the alluminum lugs. Find the ends of the snapring and note how one end is pushed up against a metal clip. Remove the snapring with a big screwdriver. Now pick the whole trany up by the bellhousing and hit the end of the output shaft on a piece of wood, this drives the low reverse roller clutch out of the lugs. Youl know when it goes the trany will slide all the way down to the ground over the shaft. Now pull the whole output shaft and all out. no need to remove the lower piston if your just swapping shafts. Now before you go messing with your (shaft) look in the bottom of the case and you'll find the little metal clip that the big snaprings end was up against. Find the groove for the snapring in the case and follow it around till you see a slot that is the same shape as the metal clip. Thats where it goes, it just sits there. when you go to put it back in smear a bunch of grease on it to glue it to the side of the case.

Assy. is in reverse order.


You can buy a chilton book on gm trany repair at any auto parts store that sells them. Good to have if you r gonna tear into it.

On the lockup deal,,, Not all th350's are lockup style. The lockup style is called a TH350C. To identify a th350c it will have a smooth section on the input shaft and have an O-ring in this area, it will also have a plug on the side. the lockup mode comes in when the trany reaches a certain pressure via a pressure switch. Usually they will only lockup after about 40 mph. The lockup converter is designed to reduce heat in the trany and prolly should not be dissabled. If you forget to enable the lockup while driving at 60mph it won't take long to burn it up!!! But if you want to be able to turn it off all that is needed is to install a toggle switch in the 12v supply line to the plug. If you look at the plug you will see each wire has a letter by it. The 12v supply is usually the "A" lead.


Hope some of this might help. Sorry for the bad spelling.
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Old 04-02-2004, 12:02 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by blacksheep10
you'll need a 3 legged tool to compress the reverse piston in the bottom (rear) of the case to get the last snap ring out. I made my own out of a flat sided washer and a big nut, and 3 smaller bolts welded to the nut to sit around the snap ring. There is also a tricky little snap ring in the center (can't remember if it is on a clutch pack or planetary.) You will need a small pick set or a small set of snap ring pliers.
Hope it helps

Do not need to pull the reverse piston out to swap shafts! [Unless there is going to be an overhaul at the same time] Takes me about and hour--- tops--- once the trans is on the bench.
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Old 04-02-2004, 03:01 PM   #10 (permalink)
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awsome thanks

im probly going to buy a book as well but this helped a lot
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Old 04-02-2004, 03:10 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I do not believe you will do any damage at all to the tranny if the converter is not locked up. It will just take a bit of fuel mileage away. The lockup is also tied into the engine temp switch and does not lock up regardless of speed until the engine temperature is at operating temp. I have had the lockup soleniods go bad on two different cars of mine and I just unplug them and go. 40,000 miles later and no worries. Go ahead and ask in the Chevy forum if you want more input on this.
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Old 04-02-2004, 06:18 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by CJeep77
I do not believe you will do any damage at all to the tranny if the converter is not locked up. It will just take a bit of fuel mileage away. The lockup is also tied into the engine temp switch and does not lock up regardless of speed until the engine temperature is at operating temp. I have had the lockup soleniods go bad on two different cars of mine and I just unplug them and go. 40,000 miles later and no worries. Go ahead and ask in the Chevy forum if you want more input on this.
if using a TH350, the lock-up is not as important as it is on the 700r4 due to the fact that theres no overdrive. with the low rpms that the pump will be spinning in a 700r4 because of the overdrive, it will not pump as much fluid to get proper cooling. so in a th350 you should not have a problem.
-kyle
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Old 04-02-2004, 09:08 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Hrm. So to get this straight..


Will the tranny lockup if theres no ECU system attached to the plug?

Will 12V to the plug lock up the tranny?

Or will it do it automatically when the tranny gets to a certain temp, speed and RPM band?

I was under the impression that it would only lockup with the 12V.. and the 12V was regulated by a remote ECU.
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