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Old 12-30-2016, 10:22 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Building a semi float 60 at home

After getting fed up with my little Toyota 8" rear end, it's time to go bigger. Unlike most I didn't want to go straight to tons front and rear since I feel like my front end is working good. It's an fj80 front, bigger birfs, knuckles and about 63.5"

I wanted to do a ~63" full float 6 lug d60u, but itiwould just be too much hassle to rtaire 6 lug.

After seeing this kit in Mr stubs build, I decided it would fit the bill for me.

https://www.yukongear.com/productdet...px?ProdID=3874

Picked up a "used" (opened box) kit from Yukons Amazon store for $338 shipped

I still wanted the 60u center, so I got one.



Semi float 60u, as far as I can tell everything is the same as the full float, even the brakes.

Saw this sweet aftermarket sway bar on a 1 ton c&c chevy while we were at the junk yard



Trimmed everything up



For anyone out there who may be interested in using this kit, the only thing it doesn't include is these.



They can be sourced from low range or trail gerg for around $50 ea. Or if youre like me, you can just reuse some old ones. I guess I shshou add, the kit is discontinued, but there are still a few around. I talked to a guy at Yukon, and they are going to continue making the Shafts. Everything else is just toyota.

Here is the weld on ends Yukon includes.



I'm not sure what they were intending to be done with them since the ID is 2.375" all the way through, the od where my thumb is, is 3.5" and steps down to 3.25". My axle is 3.5"x(i believe).375". My plan is to have my father in law take the step down to 2.75" at work with a cc mill.

So here comes my first question, how much of a press fit should I do? We both figured just 2 or 3 thousands, that way I could just put the ends in the freezer and maybe warm the tube a little and drop it in.

My 2nd question, do I NEED an alignment bar? It's seems like I could get away with out it, but I definitely don't want to have it be off.

Going to post this link here for a possible future project.

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...62720/10002/-1

Last edited by YotaAtieToo; 01-01-2017 at 11:54 PM.
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Old 12-30-2016, 10:33 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I wouldnt be comfortable without an alignment jig... especially since it is a semi float.
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Old 12-30-2016, 10:43 AM   #3 (permalink)
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If the housing is straight, if you can cut the tube straight, and if you can weld the ends on straight you could probably do it without and alignment bar. That's a lot of ifs, better check things out with an alignment bar.

If your father in law has access to machine tools have him make some pucks that fit where the carrier bearings go and get some shaft material to make an alignment bar.

Kevin
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Old 12-30-2016, 10:48 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I've built a custom housing before without using an alignment bar. I used the axles themselves as alignment bars, did one side at a time and didn't fully weld anything until I had the ends tac'd on really well and the shafts would slide in and out like they were supposed to. After fully burning them in it stayed as straight as I had started.

Is that the right way? PBB peanut gallery will be along shortly to tell you how your going to kill kids and nuns with it if you try it. Really though if you take your time you can do it.
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Old 12-30-2016, 11:34 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I designed the same rear end 15 years ago at Foothill Offroad. We even have a 35 spline shaft that will still take the toyota drums so you keep the same parking brake. The housing end you have in your hand was originally designed by Foothill. Dutchman made them for us, and later was copied by Yukon.
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Old 12-30-2016, 12:20 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Ghetto Fab. View Post
If the housing is straight, if you can cut the tube straight, and if you can weld the ends on straight you could probably do it without and alignment bar. That's a lot of ifs, better check things out with an alignment bar.

If your father in law has access to machine tools have him make some pucks that fit where the carrier bearings go and get some shaft material to make an alignment bar.

Kevin
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I've built a custom housing before without using an alignment bar. I used the axles themselves as alignment bars, did one side at a time and didn't fully weld anything until I had the ends tac'd on really well and the shafts would slide in and out like they were supposed to. After fully burning them in it stayed as straight as I had started.

Is that the right way? PBB peanut gallery will be along shortly to tell you how your going to kill kids and nuns with it if you try it. Really though if you take your time you can do it.
This is what I was thinking. Which brings me back to the od of the ends. If I make them a slight press fit, they should be damn straight, but on the other hand, if they are off, I won't be able to really move it.

Maybe make it exact?

I do know someone with an alignment bar, so it may just be "better safe than sorry"

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Old 12-30-2016, 12:44 PM   #7 (permalink)
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This is what I was thinking. Which brings me back to the od of the ends. If I make them a slight press fit, they should be damn straight, but on the other hand, if they are off, I won't be able to really move it.

Maybe make it exact?

I do know someone with an alignment bar, so it may just be "better safe than sorry"
You're assuming that the tubes in the junkyard housing you have, are straight, true, and round. While I can't say that I've cut up tons of them, more that I've cut have been out of at least one of those, than have been right, so I'd have to suggest going "safe than sorry" especially if you can beg/borrow/rent an alignment bar easily.
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Old 12-30-2016, 01:00 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I'd do it without an alignment bar.
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Old 12-30-2016, 01:07 PM   #9 (permalink)
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You're assuming that the tubes in the junkyard housing you have, are straight, true, and round. While I can't say that I've cut up tons of them, more that I've cut have been out of at least one of those, than have been right, so I'd have to suggest going "safe than sorry" especially if you can beg/borrow/rent an alignment bar easily.
That's a good point, it's out of an 01 van, so it's not 40 years old, but you never know.

What would you suggest I have the ends turned to?
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Old 12-30-2016, 01:13 PM   #10 (permalink)
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That's a good point, it's out of an 01 van, so it's not 40 years old, but you never know.

What would you suggest I have the ends turned to?
I'd suggest the alignment bar before you turn the ends at all, and see how it lines up. At that point, you'll have access to be able to see how round (or not) the tubes are, and what the closest point on the tubes is to the alignment bar. Turn to diameter to clear, fit on alignment bar, weld on. Or straighten housing, check for round, turn to press fit for that new location, etc.

The PBB busload of nuns will be along presently to remind that what I've just suggested is little to no better than a butt weld... which is how Ford put their housing ends on nearly every 9" rear ever rolled out anyway.

Other option is, redneck check it for straight (put tires on it, have two friends hold the tires, spin the chunk, see how much the tires change camber) and if it's pretty straight, just lop off the ends, stick your ends in at a 1-3 thousandth press fit, and burn them in.

Last edited by [email protected]; 12-30-2016 at 01:20 PM.
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Old 12-30-2016, 02:45 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I'd suggest the alignment bar before you turn the ends at all, and see how it lines up. At that point, you'll have access to be able to see how round (or not) the tubes are, and what the closest point on the tubes is to the alignment bar. Turn to diameter to clear, fit on alignment bar, weld on. Or straighten housing, check for round, turn to press fit for that new location, etc.

The PBB busload of nuns will be along presently to remind that what I've just suggested is little to no better than a butt weld... which is how Ford put their housing ends on nearly every 9" rear ever rolled out anyway.

Other option is, redneck check it for straight (put tires on it, have two friends hold the tires, spin the chunk, see how much the tires change camber) and if it's pretty straight, just lop off the ends, stick your ends in at a 1-3 thousandth press fit, and burn them in.
So basically if the housing is straight, and I have the ends turned to 2 tho press fit with an inch of engagement, the ends will be on straight?

The only way to "fix" an out of round or slightly bent housing with the aligalign bar would be to eitger have the ends turned out of round or just undersized enough to be able to fit centcent with the aligalign bar?
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Old 12-30-2016, 02:50 PM   #12 (permalink)
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You could straighten the housing beforehand, if the tubes are round. You should be able to determine that at this point.
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Old 12-30-2016, 03:31 PM   #13 (permalink)
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You could straighten the housing beforehand, if the tubes are round. You should be able to determine that at this point.
Right, I guess I didn't word that properly.

Basically what I was trying to say was the only way to fix the an issue while welding the ends on would basically be to cut the ends undersized.

I'm hoping to get the tubes cut at Ken's later today, then I'll be able to check roundness.

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Old 12-30-2016, 06:28 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I designed the same rear end 15 years ago at Foothill Offroad. We even have a 35 spline shaft that will still take the toyota drums so you keep the same parking brake. The housing end you have in your hand was originally designed by Foothill. Dutchman made them for us, and later was copied by Yukon.
I have and run Foothills 35 spline kit. I think I got their last kit. Bought it on Ebay then ended up buying a spare shaft that they had laying around for some cheap insurance. 4 years and no problems. Splines are still straight as an arrow.
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Old 12-30-2016, 08:27 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I have and run Foothills 35 spline kit. I think I got their last kit. Bought it on Ebay then ended up buying a spare shaft that they had laying around for some cheap insurance. 4 years and no problems. Splines are still straight as an arrow.
We had our shafts made at Foote Axle and Forge out of 4340. They were really nice shafts. I've only heard of 1 shaft breaking in the last 15 years, but the guy was running a dual t-case with 44 inch tires and a V6. Considering another batch run.

Last edited by KWTMECH; 12-30-2016 at 08:28 PM.
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Old 12-30-2016, 09:44 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Fixing bent tubes is fairly straightforward. Take some oxy/acetylene or some hot welds on the long side, and quench it. It'll shrink that side and pull straighter.
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Old 12-30-2016, 10:34 PM   #17 (permalink)
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We had our shafts made at Foote Axle and Forge out of 4340. They were really nice shafts. I've only heard of 1 shaft breaking in the last 15 years, but the guy was running a dual t-case with 44 inch tires and a V6. Considering another batch run.
I would be interested in a set of spare shafts if you run another batch. Mine should be 1540 (they were a Yukon set) and I had them comp cut. I need at least one spare all set up and ready to slap in.
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Old 01-01-2017, 11:56 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I would be interested in a set of spare shafts if you run another batch. Mine should be 1540 (they were a Yukon set) and I had them comp cut. I need at least one spare all set up and ready to slap in.
What do you mean when you say you had them comp cut?
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Old 01-02-2017, 05:14 AM   #19 (permalink)
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What do you mean when you say you had them comp cut?
Carl Jantz does this. Material gets removed from the mid section of the shaft to allow for more twist. Hes made several posts on here about it. I'd post links but searching on my phone makes me want to murder shit. Found it.

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gener...ng-thread.html

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Old 01-02-2017, 10:09 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Carl Jantz does this. Material gets removed from the mid section of the shaft to allow for more twist. Hes made several posts on here about it. I'd post links but searching on my phone makes me want to murder shit. Found it.

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gener...ng-thread.html
ThatsT kinda what I thought. Mine are alrealr built correctly, the shafts dia is smaller than the minor dia of the splines. Maybe Stubs has older shafts that weren't? Or is there an advantage to going even smaller than that?
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Old 01-02-2017, 11:37 AM   #21 (permalink)
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More twist... ever seen stock unimog shafts?
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Old 01-03-2017, 09:58 AM   #22 (permalink)
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More twist... ever seen stock unimog shafts?
Yes, what are they 8 spline?
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Old 01-03-2017, 10:40 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Yes, what are they 8 spline?
I was referring to how each shaft is turned to a different OD, so that they all twist the same amount, before failure. There is a lot of engineering in those axles.
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Old 01-03-2017, 05:35 PM   #24 (permalink)
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You definitely need an alignment bar.

If the rear axle has even a 2/10 of a degree of positive camber or tow, it's going to cause your vehicle to pull to one side.

I'm curious why all the effort, when you can get a FZJ80 rear that is 63.5" wide, disc brakes, matches your front and only has a 3" from center pinion offset.

Or you could find a CC 14 bolt and machine the hubs to accept 6 lug wheels (4.25" OD). I'm surprised the 14 bolt hasn't been mentioned. Pirate is getting soft.

A quick google search yielded this: https://www.sneveysoffroad.com/gm_14...off_road_parts

Pair of Forged 6 on 5.5 Bolt Pattern 14 Bolt Wheel Hubs - Wheel Hubs - Spyntec Industries LLC.

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/chevy...s-14-bolt.html

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/chevy...c-14-bolt.html

GM 14 Bolt Disc Cab and Chassis Brake Caliper Adapter Bracket - bent bolt on 14 bolt disc brake bracket C&C

BillaVista.com-14-Bolt Bible Tech Article by BillaVista
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Old 01-04-2017, 04:36 AM   #25 (permalink)
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You definitely need an alignment bar.

If the rear axle has even a 2/10 of a degree of positive camber or tow, it's going to cause your vehicle to pull to one side.

I'm curious why all the effort, when you can get a FZJ80 rear that is 63.5" wide, disc brakes, matches your front and only has a 3" from center pinion offset.

Or you could find a CC 14 bolt and machine the hubs to accept 6 lug wheels (4.25" OD). I'm surprised the 14 bolt hasn't been mentioned. Pirate is getting soft.

A quick google search yielded this: https://www.sneveysoffroad.com/gm_14...off_road_parts

Pair of Forged 6 on 5.5 Bolt Pattern 14 Bolt Wheel Hubs - Wheel Hubs - Spyntec Industries LLC.

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/chevy...s-14-bolt.html

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/chevy...c-14-bolt.html

GM 14 Bolt Disc Cab and Chassis Brake Caliper Adapter Bracket - bent bolt on 14 bolt disc brake bracket C&C

BillaVista.com-14-Bolt Bible Tech Article by BillaVista
Search newb!

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gener...will-work.html
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