Strange 9" third strength load bolt needed? - Page 2 - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
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Old 11-27-2017, 12:41 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 06 H3 View Post
its certainly not a patch fix, its fixes all scenarios...
if it fixed all scenarios why do HP rears with load bolts die so often? We would all have HP rears with load bolts if they worked that well.
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Old 11-27-2017, 01:18 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Pokeman View Post
if it fixed all scenarios why do HP rears with load bolts die so often? We would all have HP rears with load bolts if they worked that well.
Bearing issues, the smaller bearing takes the load and more suspectible to failure and depending on the axle it may or may not have pinion support which also causes deflection. A load bolt stops ring gear deflection not pinion deflection. Lastly, a rear axle always takes more load then a rear. So if your running a HP rear 9 in and a LP front 9in where both axles are both in the wrong direction going forward the front will last longer then the rear. So there’s many variables
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Old 11-27-2017, 01:24 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Pokeman View Post
I agree with the ideal scenario.

I disagree that a LP should ever be up front. load bolt is just a way to try to make one live. Like putting RCV's in a dana 30. Great you have RCV's but your ring gear is slightly larger than a doughnut.
You have to look at numerous scenarios. There are compromises especially if you start with a framed production rig. I read a whole thread on a guy who stuck with a LP front simply because the HP would cause way to many issues with clearance between his driveshaft and motor/trans/exhaust. His options were LP, more lift, or less up travel without haven’t to completely move his entire drivetrain. So if we play everything in an ideal scenario everyone would have 42s, adjust wheelbases, adjustable trackwidths, rear steer buggy’s that went 80 down the highway during a snowstorm in comfort.

Unless your building a purpose built buggy with no money limit then you sometimes make compromises...and a load bolt can really help a axle live longer in the wrong direction but personally I would never ever run a Hp rear but I would run a LP front due to the front taking less load
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Old 11-28-2017, 05:33 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 06 H3 View Post
Bearing issues, the smaller bearing takes the load and more suspectible to failure and depending on the axle it may or may not have pinion support which also causes deflection. A load bolt stops ring gear deflection not pinion deflection. Lastly, a rear axle always takes more load then a rear. So if your running a HP rear 9 in and a LP front 9in where both axles are both in the wrong direction going forward the front will last longer then the rear. So there’s many variables
Quote:
Originally Posted by 06 H3 View Post
You have to look at numerous scenarios. There are compromises especially if you start with a framed production rig. I read a whole thread on a guy who stuck with a LP front simply because the HP would cause way to many issues with clearance between his driveshaft and motor/trans/exhaust. His options were LP, more lift, or less up travel without haven’t to completely move his entire drivetrain. So if we play everything in an ideal scenario everyone would have 42s, adjust wheelbases, adjustable trackwidths, rear steer buggy’s that went 80 down the highway during a snowstorm in comfort.

Unless your building a purpose built buggy with no money limit then you sometimes make compromises...and a load bolt can really help a axle live longer in the wrong direction but personally I would never ever run a Hp rear but I would run a LP front due to the front taking less load
good points.
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Old 11-28-2017, 11:15 AM   #30 (permalink)
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I've been running big bearing yukon nodular LP 3rds since late 2011 in my buggy with Motive gears. Never had a problem till I put a built 6.2 in (5.3 and LS1 prior), then immediately fried 2 front gearsets. Jesse Haines recommended load bolts and pro gears in the front for the LP. I installed Jantz kits in both F&R, and haven't had any issues since. I'll be pulling them as part of KOH prep and going thru them, I'll resurface the load bolt face per Carl's recommendation and resetting it prior to reassembly.

I can fit and would go to a mega hi 9 if problems resurfaced, I'd prefer a gearworks 10" but that would require a new housing as my early spidertrax won't fit one.
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Old 02-26-2019, 07:14 AM   #31 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by jrad12381 View Post
Just to give you a heads up I have ran that third on the front of my 4400 car for 3 years. I have gone through 2 ring gears on it. ( no fault to the product low pinion up front with alot of power and abuse) The last time ecgs warantied it out I had them put in a 10" ring gear and load bolt it. Since the modification 4 races and a week at the hammers I haven't had any issues. I think the load bolt is a good idea. I would also like to say good choice on a vendor. I have never had a company provide such good service and stand behind their warrant like ECGS. Chase at ECGS is absolutely great to deal with.
Pulling up old thread cause I can’t find the info - did you have to purchase a special 10” third to fit the 10” gears or did you only have to upgrade the pinion bearing retainer when you went to the 10” gears? I have been looking at doing the same upgrade as you did
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