1969 3/4 ton D44 special! - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
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Old 12-09-2017, 03:24 AM   #1 (permalink)
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1969 3/4 ton D44 special!

So... I should've known better, but I bought a pair of diffs out of what was probably a IH 1200D, 3/4 ton D44 front, 1 ton RA 20 rear, yadayada I know about how closed knuckle D44's are elementary my dear watson, but I've yet to see D44's with such slender shafts?
I'm kinda disappointed considering it has the 1/2 inch tubing, the "heavy duty" 5-86x joints, and a fucking axle that's thinner than a D30!

$500 down the drain? Or is there some secret strength to these I dont know about?

(Yes before you ask, here in Australia D60's are 2k a piece in piss poor condition)

Also is it worth investing in upgrading from the 19 spline arrangement?

Cheers!
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Old 12-09-2017, 06:31 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Bit more info! This thing is factory geared to: 4.88 has the larger style closed knuckles, and the BOM seems non existent in every source I've come across : 602486

Build date; 20th Jan 69



However there's 1 detail I find very strange: the arrangement of the steering pivot, link rod an pitman arm suggests that it was some kind of Cab over truck, an early Acco? But even a 3/4 ton D44 is far too light duty for something the size of a loadstar.

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Old 12-09-2017, 07:02 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Shoulda bought yotas : flipoff2:

The steering setup looks similar to that of the early hilux, so could still be from a regular cabbed vehicle.
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Old 12-09-2017, 07:25 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Your BOM is in here....

http://www.canadawideparts.com/downl..._X510-8DSD.pdf

The steering is typical of 4x4 pickups... Ford thru '79; GM thru '87, and Dodge thru '93.

I'm familiar with the Dodge and Ford version of that diff.... its a true Dana 44HD. I'm not aware of much aftermarket for these.

Best I can come up with try to do something with Jeep JK shafts, and Ford Dana 50TTB stubs (both 1350-series derived ujoints like you have now.) Roll your own disc brakes. You're still going to be limited in what you can do for steering, and the steering angle itself is probably less (due to the closed-knuckle arrangement).

Good luck.
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Old 12-09-2017, 03:16 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by OllieNZ View Post
Shoulda bought yotas : flipoff2:

The steering setup looks similar to that of the early hilux, so could still be from a regular cabbed vehicle.
Every cunt and their dog has them here! I live in a fucking special needs certified country!

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Your BOM is in here....

http://www.canadawideparts.com/downl..._X510-8DSD.pdf

The steering is typical of 4x4 pickups... Ford thru '79; GM thru '87, and Dodge thru '93.

I'm familiar with the Dodge and Ford version of that diff.... its a true Dana 44HD. I'm not aware of much aftermarket for these.

Best I can come up with try to do something with Jeep JK shafts, and Ford Dana 50TTB stubs (both 1350-series derived ujoints like you have now.) Roll your own disc brakes. You're still going to be limited in what you can do for steering, and the steering angle itself is probably less (due to the closed-knuckle arrangement).

Good luck.
You're a fucking legend! I had no idea that catalogue even existed.
I'm going to have to piss with the cock I've got ATM, It'll be barely worth the effort after I cock about with swapping the tubes around, but it'll make for a hell of a story.

Fuck knows where I'll find some 6 stud budd rims here either, But I'll see what comes up.
Have you ever heard of people welding a gusset to the inside of the ball to beef it up?
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Old 12-09-2017, 11:53 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Every cunt and their dog has them here! I live in a fucking special needs certified country!

Have you ever heard of people welding a gusset to the inside of the ball to beef it up?
Every cunt and his dog can't be far wrong..... lol

I've never heard of anyone welding inside the balls but external gussets are commonly done. Google "knuckle ball gussets" for more pictures.
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Old 12-10-2017, 12:08 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Whilst most of the bearings and seals seem to have been replaced at some point; many years of neglect, water and whatever the fuck else made for some fucking gnarly vistas.



I scraped out what I could and washed and scrubbed the rest in petrol (gasoline) still didn't make for a perfect ckean up, but at lest taking a piss isn't a 15 minute ordeal anymore, I'm not sure if these 5-86x unis were always open or their seals have gone walkabout, but if the former is true, I can see why there is so much damn grease in there.



I've been trying to think of ways to get by with perforating the outer knuckle, seeing as the axles have inner seals, I could buy sealed unis, & the wheelbearings should be safe pressed against the spindle, but the more I think about it, the lower king pin has a bearing which would naturally attract dust & shit if I try to eliminate the seal, or has someone successfully pulled this off?

Next step is to strip the carrier then drill & press out the tubes, need to swap the drop, I'd happily chop and weld but I'm paranoid that I won't be able to reattach them straight enough.



I'd be a liar if I said I was keen for this bit.

Last edited by Unroadworthy; 12-10-2017 at 12:20 AM.
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Old 12-10-2017, 12:16 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Every cunt and his dog can't be far wrong..... lol

I've never heard of anyone welding inside the balls but external gussets are commonly done. Google "knuckle ball gussets" for more pictures.
"Inside the ball"
What the fuck is wrong with me

Yes exactly as illustrated
Wasn't certain welding in a 1/2 inch gusset would cause any warping.
But looks like full steam ahead!

Also, even a set of 60 series diffs wouldn't be all too tough, and I dare say have even less aftermarket support than this dinosaur turd.
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Old 12-11-2017, 10:49 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I'm going to have to piss with the cock I've got ATM


That's a new one for me, I'm stealing it for sure
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Old 12-11-2017, 11:01 AM   #10 (permalink)
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I'm not sure if these 5-86x unis were always open or their seals have gone walkabout, but if the former is true, I can see why there is so much damn grease in there.
IIRC, those ujoints originally didn't have seals. I believe the superceded replacement for them is a std 1350 joint (and sealed).
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