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Old 12-27-2017, 07:59 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Steel beadlocks

Looking at getting some steel beadlocks, my options are a formed beadlock like allied, steel race lines, and now battlebornwheels. These are formed ring wheels.

The other option is a steel wheel(stock or cragar's ) and buy a beadlock kit.

Any reason to go one or the other ? I'm leaning toward battlebornwheels because they are near 40# and a basic cragar's soft 8 is the same, then add 3/16 rings, and hardware.

I do feel like weld-ons might be stronger on the lips over a formed ring, but other than that pricing is similar, etc.


The only caviate here is I could use stock dodge 17" steel wheels which are 6"bs requiring wheels spacers which I own. That lowers the cost of weld ons a lot. I also need to price getting the rings cut local cause shipping from say TMI is like $60-70.

I currently have hummer h2s which are gonna force me to buy new lug nuts and stubby valves which could go towards the price of new wheels.

What say PBB?!
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'79 chevy k30 vortec 350/sm465/205/205/5.13's 40" NITTO trail grapplers on dirtylife beadlocks.
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Old 12-27-2017, 08:08 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Do you drive on the street? Most weld on bead locks don’t hold the tire perfectly concentric with the rim. There’s a lot more vibration.

Why are you getting rid of your H1’s? They are superior in most every way to a weld on beadlock? Send them to trail worthy fab to get re-centered if you don’t like the offset.

I would go with h1’s, then allieds, then weld ons last.
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Old 12-27-2017, 08:10 AM   #3 (permalink)
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H2's so not beadlocks. Switched from 16.5 to now 17's. And no this is trail only.
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'79 chevy k30 vortec 350/sm465/205/205/5.13's 40" NITTO trail grapplers on dirtylife beadlocks.
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Old 12-27-2017, 08:11 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I have Airlocks for my H2’s. Why not go that route?
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Old 12-27-2017, 08:21 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I have the weld on type. I am the slowest in the group when it comes to road travel from the parking location to the trail head. 20 mph is where severe death wobble starts.

Also, The valve stems point at the ring and make it very difficult to air up or down. I installed some 4" extensions for dual wheels that made it easier.
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Old 12-27-2017, 08:31 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I have Airlocks for my H2ís. Why not go that route?
I have just heard of so many failure of stauns and inner airlocks, granted all from forums.
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'79 chevy k30 vortec 350/sm465/205/205/5.13's 40" NITTO trail grapplers on dirtylife beadlocks.
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Old 12-27-2017, 08:32 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I have the weld on type. I am the slowest in the group when it comes to road travel from the parking location to the trail head. 20 mph is where severe death wobble starts.

Also, The valve stems point at the ring and make it very difficult to air up or down. I installed some 4" extensions for dual wheels that made it easier.
I currently have weld-ons and while no speedo I don't notice vibes. I did notch my rings for the valvestems. If I go that route again I will relocate them.
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'79 chevy k30 vortec 350/sm465/205/205/5.13's 40" NITTO trail grapplers on dirtylife beadlocks.
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Old 12-27-2017, 08:35 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Do the fromed beadlocks clamp as well as weld-ons?
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'79 chevy k30 vortec 350/sm465/205/205/5.13's 40" NITTO trail grapplers on dirtylife beadlocks.
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Old 12-27-2017, 08:41 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Why don't you ditch the single bead lock theory and run real wheels?

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Old 12-27-2017, 08:44 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Do the fromed beadlocks clamp as well as weld-ons?
Yes
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Old 12-27-2017, 09:10 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Check your wheels and make sure there is room for the hardware for the beadlocks. Some factory wheels don't have room.
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Old 12-27-2017, 09:21 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I say find some used aluminum's that somebody has already put the scratches in for you... Then more pew pew collectables.
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Old 12-27-2017, 09:39 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Check your wheels and make sure there is room for the hardware for the beadlocks. Some factory wheels don't have room.
Right, I'm not sure a stock dodge does.
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'79 chevy k30 vortec 350/sm465/205/205/5.13's 40" NITTO trail grapplers on dirtylife beadlocks.
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Old 12-27-2017, 10:08 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Why don't you ditch the single bead lock theory and run real wheels?
Cause I have never lost an inner bead and they are $$$
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Old 12-27-2017, 11:21 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Or do you just pony up the extra $400 and get methods or procomp vapor 2's?
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'79 chevy k30 vortec 350/sm465/205/205/5.13's 40" NITTO trail grapplers on dirtylife beadlocks.

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Old 12-27-2017, 11:42 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Or do you just pony up the extra $400 and get methods or procomp vapor 2's?
Only you know what you can afford. Also it depends on the tire to some extent. Friend of mine bought the PROCOMP wheels and tried to use them with pitbull tires and had a bunch of trouble.
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Old 12-27-2017, 12:03 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by pennsylvaniaboy View Post
Looking at getting some steel beadlocks, my options are a formed beadlock like allied, steel race lines, and now battlebornwheels. These are formed ring wheels.

The other option is a steel wheel(stock or cragar's ) and buy a beadlock kit.

Any reason to go one or the other ? I'm leaning toward battlebornwheels because they are near 40# and a basic cragar's soft 8 is the same, then add 3/16 rings, and hardware.

I do feel like weld-ons might be stronger on the lips over a formed ring, but other than that pricing is similar, etc.


The only caviate here is I could use stock dodge 17" steel wheels which are 6"bs requiring wheels spacers which I own. That lowers the cost of weld ons a lot. I also need to price getting the rings cut local cause shipping from say TMI is like $60-70.

I currently have hummer h2s which are gonna force me to buy new lug nuts and stubby valves which could go towards the price of new wheels.

What say PBB?!
I have weld ons from mayhem metal works. @am4x4 on here. Great guy to deal with. The kit comes with centering lugs, and they double as anti coning devices. Mine vibrate some at 60mph, but I'm running treps that have a bit of a loose bead, so i think i need to take the rings off and center the tires better. They come with all the hardware, including 90į valve sterns to get it away from the ring. Very nice setup imo. If i remember right, they were sub $500 shipped for the set with all grade 8 hardware and stems. Andrew can give you his price now though as that was almost 2 years ago now.
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Old 12-27-2017, 12:55 PM   #18 (permalink)
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The tires are 40" nitto trail grapplers, I wheel 5-6 times a year so the $800 in battle born sounds more appealing.

Anyone deal with them? They still be allied/raceline steels by $100+
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'79 chevy k30 vortec 350/sm465/205/205/5.13's 40" NITTO trail grapplers on dirtylife beadlocks.

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Old 12-27-2017, 02:47 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Weld on kinda suck. Most everyone of them leaks. When I did mine I did the air nozzle behind the ring and soapy water trick to find leaks. I then went over them with a tight until there were no leaks. They were great with new MTR's, no leaks, no rtv. The other tires I've had on them were more tricky because the beads got fucked up. I ended up fighting with some nitto mud grapplers because the bead was very thin and I didn't want to grind down my anti coning ring.

They don't center the tire either which can cause other issues.

It also really doesn't make sense money wise if you don't already have steel wheels. Steel wheels are $100 a pop new now

The battle born wheels look sweet for the price. They look a lot like a weld on kit with a formed ring to help center the tire.

They are running a sale at $179 ea for 17s, so about the same price as buying new steel wheels and a beadlock kit.
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Old 12-27-2017, 03:05 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Has anyone had anything negative to say about the Battleborn wheels, aside from being a single beadlock?

At that price it's very tempting to order a set... I mean, I'd love me some TWF doubles, but it's a real cuntpunch of a price once I order 5 and factor in shipping and exchange. Plus being able to get a 4.5" BS wheel is sorta important to me, as that would only widen the vehicle up a little bit.
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Old 12-27-2017, 03:45 PM   #21 (permalink)
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I have (had) probably 50k street miles on weld on steel beadlocks- 2 different sets. Tighten the outer ring with the rim on a bucket and lots of soapy water and it'll line up concentrically just fine.

My vote is stock dodge rims and weld ons. Keep in mind, those factory steel 17's are pretty damn heavy if you're concerned about unsprung weight.
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Old 12-27-2017, 04:27 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Iíll vouch for battleborn. I got a set after losing a few beads on H2 wheels.

I drive to and from the trail at all speeds from cruising at slow speeds up to 75-80 with no vibration issues. Even unbalanced I didnít feel anything until 60 or so. Got em balanced and they are perfect at any speed. Only issue I can talk of is sometimes I burp air when a rear tire is wedged on a 6k lb rig at 6 psi but Iíll do the duct tape mod.

With that said my brother has super duty axles and they are wide! I told him to get battleborns but the least offset they have is 4.5in backspace, he currently has 5.5in backspaced Steelies and wants to keep it that way and may go the Weld on beadlock to keep the offset he has. My concern is that itís a daily driver and also does 75-80 on the highway. Not to hijack but anyone have issues with balancing out weld ons?

As for OP if you have Steelies Iíd go weld ons especially if you donít drive it much. If you some aluminum rims like H2s then Iíd vouch for battleborn. If you have the coin then spring for the bling!
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Old 12-27-2017, 05:13 PM   #23 (permalink)
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I have access to dodge steelies which are like 6" offset and I'm not sure they even have room for bolts yet so may maybe not on that. But it would require spacers?!
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Old 12-27-2017, 06:59 PM   #24 (permalink)
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I got procomp steelies and tmi diy beadlocks. I am quite an amateur compared to 98% of what i see on here. I only have a miller 180 mig and learned on my own.


I used acetone and chalk to find leaks. Had 1-5 on each and went iver those spots.

My wheels do not leak one bit, i used airsoft bbs and they are smooth up to almost 80 (fast as she'll go)

Ill never do another set though, they are a ton of work to do.

Also spent like 8$ on amazon for 90degree valvestems.
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Old 12-27-2017, 07:44 PM   #25 (permalink)
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I ran regrooved 36x12.5 bias TSLs on weld on beadlocks, I had some wobble, but once I tightened the steering box down on the frame it became fully manageable. The trick to getting torn up beads to seal on them is roof repair caulking. My tire guy hates me, but they seal up and hold air for months.
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