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Old 03-19-2018, 07:12 PM   #1 (permalink)
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F-150 frame

So I picked up a 2004 f150 4x4 and the price was right, but the passenger side frame rail is rusted worse than I thought.

I want this to be as easy as a fix as can be deemed safe.

I origannally thought I could get by with putting a piece of 3” flat bar down the rail, but it moved a little further up than I thought.

Now I am thinking a piece of 2.5 inch rectangular tubing would slide inside the rail and i can weld it in.

What would PBB do?

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Old 03-19-2018, 09:21 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Old 03-19-2018, 09:23 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Holy shit.
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Old 03-19-2018, 09:26 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Dibs on your stuff when you die!
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Old 03-19-2018, 09:30 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I guess insure it and crash it?

Not to be an ass, but buying trucks at current prices as watching them rot would make me nuts. Working on them would make me want to slit my wrists.

Guess I shouldn't complain about the rust on the exhaust on my '02 GMC. Stock tailpipe.
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Old 03-19-2018, 09:52 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Dibs on your stuff when you die!
I drove that bitch (with no power steering I might add) from New Hampshire to Houston. A 2004 Ford 4x4 with 140k miles for $400. I couldn’t pass it up.

I know I may die, but if anyone has any tips on holding it together though, I’m all ears.
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Old 03-19-2018, 10:23 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I would buy a complete frame or a frame rail for that side from the junkyard and graft it in.
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Old 03-19-2018, 10:48 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Dude, that frame is NOT salvageable, even to Michigan standards. Keep that rolling bus-full-of-nuns killing piece of shit off the roads you retard.
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Old 03-20-2018, 05:13 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Is this a 2004 heritage model or the the new body that was available from 2004-2008? A lot of these F150 frames are only made from 0.100-0.110" thickness material when they're new, with rust that bad even the good sections could wind up being dangerously thin once you get them cleaned up enough to weld new material into them. Looking at the truck from the side does it look like it's bowing down in the middle or is it still somehow fairly straight looking?
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Old 03-20-2018, 06:32 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Fill it with two cans of Great Stuff and paint it black.
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Old 03-20-2018, 06:47 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Fill it with two cans of Great Stuff and paint it black.
Especially since you already did the hard part of driving the truck down south. You won't have to look to hard to find a buyer who doesn't check all that hard for rust.

Unethical, sure. But if that bothers you just sell it to someone you hate.
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Old 03-20-2018, 08:21 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I would buy a complete frame or a frame rail for that side from the junkyard and graft it in.
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Originally Posted by SALEEN961 View Post
Is this a 2004 heritage model or the the new body that was available from 2004-2008? A lot of these F150 frames are only made from 0.100-0.110" thickness material when they're new, with rust that bad even the good sections could wind up being dangerously thin once you get them cleaned up enough to weld new material into them. Looking at the truck from the side does it look like it's bowing down in the middle or is it still somehow fairly straight looking?
It's fairly straight.

I agree they were shit from the factory, that's why I felt comfortable with the idea of welding real steel in there. To me it would be stronger than it was from the factory.
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Old 03-20-2018, 06:31 PM   #13 (permalink)
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It's fairly straight.

I agree they were shit from the factory, that's why I felt comfortable with the idea of welding real steel in there. To me it would be stronger than it was from the factory.
They really weren't great from the factory, the 09-14 trucks started with 0.100" wall frames for short wheel base trucks, most trucks got 0.110" wall frames, and then only the "Heavy Duty Payload" and extra long frames got 0.150" wall frames.

The funny thing is the 0.110" and 0.100" frames were 49,300psi yield steel, and the "heavy duty" frames were only 36,000psi yield steel, how does that make sense?
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Old 03-20-2018, 10:27 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I would buy a complete frame or a frame rail for that side from the junkyard and graft it in.
This
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Old 03-21-2018, 05:18 AM   #15 (permalink)
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"Price was right"

So, like, $150? If you really think you can fix it, ive got half a spool of iron oxide .024 you can have. POP POP POP POP bzzzzzz POP POP bzzzzzzzzzz


Kidding aside, i dont see anything fixable about that. Other than a new frame. That you would be setting a rusty body down on.
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Old 03-21-2018, 07:59 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Is this a 2004 heritage model or the the new body that was available from 2004-2008?
My guess is new style ‘04, I’ve seen several trucks from that generation, from areas that salt their roads, that have that much frame rot.

I’d find a totaled truck from AZ, NM, CA, and do a frame swap. Patching that is just going to be never ending. Or just part it out.
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Old 03-21-2018, 08:11 AM   #17 (permalink)
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"Price was right"

So, like, $150? If you really think you can fix it, ive got half a spool of iron oxide .024 you can have. POP POP POP POP bzzzzzz POP POP bzzzzzzzzzz


Kidding aside, i dont see anything fixable about that. Other than a new frame. That you would be setting a rusty body down on.
Everything is fixable, yer just a jaded not salted road having gentleman.
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Old 03-21-2018, 08:52 AM   #18 (permalink)
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"Price was right"

So, like, $150? If you really think you can fix it, ive got half a spool of iron oxide .024 you can have. POP POP POP POP bzzzzzz POP POP bzzzzzzzzzz


Kidding aside, i dont see anything fixable about that. Other than a new frame. That you would be setting a rusty body down on.
$400. for a '04 4x4. so ......

I have a piece of 2.5" square tubing that I think is going to fit in the rail nicely.

I was just going to weld it in, but I am now thinking of something like this.

bolts on 5" centers and welds at top and bottom.

Maybe I can't get t clean enough, I guess I'll see.

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Old 03-21-2018, 09:07 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Bolts? Just cut off the junk, clean it and weld new stuff.
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Old 03-21-2018, 09:13 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Grind back and see how much good metal is actually in those frame rails. It doesn’t look like much.
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Old 03-21-2018, 09:24 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Leave it alone. Weight reduction=better fuel economy.

Have fun welding to rust. I would probably strap a 4x4 pressure treat to it.
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Old 03-21-2018, 09:37 AM   #22 (permalink)
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That was a hellova waste of a drive.

part it out or put it on a new frame (and enjoy snapping EVERY fastener). there's nothing worth trying to save there.

There's a reason we salt belters go south to buy used. You just learned why you should never come north to buy used. That truck is SOP up here for something that doesn't get taken care of - and by taken care of I mean either not driven in the winter, or washed religiously.

EDIT to add:
if the frame looks that good, are the fenders
A) gone
B) replaced
C) 3" thick of bondo over rot
D) barely covered in fender flares that are about to fall off because they're attached to air?


Same goes for rockers and door bottoms, except there is no D) for rockers and doors. Or cab corners. Or bed floors.
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Last edited by Mr. Mindless; 03-21-2018 at 09:44 AM.
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Old 03-21-2018, 10:36 AM   #23 (permalink)
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This is possibly the dumbest thread in the existence of Pirate4x4. OP drives cross country to the rust belt from the south to buy POS. OP now plans on wasting time and effort on fixing said piece of shit? Holy fucking Christ.

Last edited by Aisin; 03-21-2018 at 10:37 AM.
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Old 03-21-2018, 10:39 AM   #24 (permalink)
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This is possibly the dumbest thread in the existence of Pirate4x4. OP drives cross country to the rust belt from the south to buy POS. OP now plans on wasting time and effort on fixing said piece of shit? Holy fucking Christ.
Not even close to the dumbest.
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Old 03-21-2018, 10:44 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Not even close to the dumbest.
I’ve already written off the Mcnutgargle thread. I still think that guy was a troll.
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