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Old 08-30-2018, 11:43 AM   #126 (permalink)
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Hard to tell from this picture:



How would the Trans. and T-case come out once the buggy is complete? Looks like the motor would need to come out in order to pull the Trans. but I'm sure that's not correct!
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Old 08-30-2018, 12:07 PM   #127 (permalink)
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Take t case off and scoot back out of the way or pull it out seat opening. Then remove skid and xmbr and drop trans out bottom.
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Old 08-30-2018, 01:01 PM   #128 (permalink)
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How would the Trans. and T-case come out once the buggy is complete? Looks like the motor would need to come out in order to pull the Trans. but I'm sure that's not correct!
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Take t case off and scoot back out of the way or pull it out seat opening. Then remove skid and xmbr and drop trans out bottom.
What he said. It would be easier with a smaller trans, but it is doable. Way more room than any other car I’ve built, but still not a land yacht.

For those who have built a few of these LS rigs, what’s your opinion on head mounts? I haven’t seen Jesse do them, but most of his are ecotec or 3900 v6 powered. Is it stupid overkill, a good idea, or more trouble than it’s worth?
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Old 08-30-2018, 02:24 PM   #129 (permalink)
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What he said. It would be easier with a smaller trans, but it is doable. Way more room than any other car I’ve built, but still not a land yacht.

For those who have built a few of these LS rigs, what’s your opinion on head mounts? I haven’t seen Jesse do them, but most of his are ecotec or 3900 v6 powered. Is it stupid overkill, a good idea, or more trouble than it’s worth?
I was going to do head mounts until i got my first motor from the salvage yard and found cracks in the head at the exhaust manifold bolts. Turns out the yard monkey that pulled the motor dumped it on its side, hit the manifold and cracked the head. Seemed to crack pretty easy.
I know guys run them and my fear may be unwarranted but i decided against them.

Edit to add im using an LQ4 with 317 heads. LS heads may be more robust. I dont know.

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Old 08-30-2018, 02:48 PM   #130 (permalink)
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Ask Scott Samuel. He's running them on his bent fab buggy. I dont see the need for them personally.
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Old 08-30-2018, 04:15 PM   #131 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sleepsontoilet View Post

For those who have built a few of these LS rigs, what’s your opinion on head mounts? Is it stupid overkill, a good idea, or more trouble than it’s worth?
I did them mainly because I was there, and it worked out well. It was easy enough to make the head mount plates with some thin tracing paper so I said why not.

In my mind I wanted to isolate drivetrain twist and/or any movement just short of solid mounting everything. All of my mounts are the same poly bushings. I want to eventually send my pile through the air off some sweet jumps...but what do I know...
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Old 09-01-2018, 04:32 PM   #132 (permalink)
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Can't wait for these to go production. This is the prototype, the actual hoods are going to be carbon fiber I think.

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Old 09-01-2018, 06:02 PM   #133 (permalink)
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No more modifying a stock one with cookie sheets?
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Old 09-01-2018, 07:13 PM   #134 (permalink)
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No more modifying a stock one with cookie sheets?
Not if I can help it...
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Old 09-04-2018, 05:25 PM   #135 (permalink)
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28” bellhousing to adapter, 40.5” bellhousing to ujoint.
I just noticed that you had two different clocking rings for the Atlas. I'm assuming one of those is the Dana 300 equivalent. Do you know which one you used with the 4L80E adapter?
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Old 09-05-2018, 07:14 AM   #136 (permalink)
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Was routed to this thread, so I'm trying to make sure all I need is a spacer? Engine is a 1999 LS1 from a Corvette that came with the funky flexplate driveshaft contraption. The flexplate, torque converter and transmission all came from the same 2000 Chevy 2500. I ASSumed since it all came from the same truck, it would bolt right up. Unfortunately the flexplate hits the rear main seal cover bolts, and is a long damn way from even touching the torque converter.



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I believe you need this spacer:
edit: GM p/n 12563532
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E60SLEM...v_ov_lig_dp_it

Extended bolts:
ARP 244-2902
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0186VA8VU...v_ov_lig_dp_it

edit2: Sounds like you need this flex plate too:
4L80E P/N 19260102
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TO611K4...v_ov_lig_dp_it
Hopefully this helps someone in the future, with a definitive answer. I read and read, and was still confused. I can tell you the spacer part number was correct, but the bolts Bo posted were the shorter ones and the part number has changed.

So to go from a 1999 Corvette to a 2000 2500 4L80E using the 2000 flat flexplate and torque converter, you need the following part numbers.

6 bolt flexplate spacer - PN# 12563532
6 extended flexplate bolts - PN# 19257940

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Old 09-05-2018, 07:32 AM   #137 (permalink)
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I ran into that issue the other day after rebuilding mine. Stock Lq4/4l80. Rebuild was a 408 stroker kit, and it's not listed anywhere but they use the car/4l60 crank. When I went to bolt the flywheel back up I found the same fitment issues. It will really make you start scratching your head when the same parts no longer bolt back together....

Links to the ones I found.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01...o_pop_mb_pd_t2

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00...o_pop_mb_pd_t2
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Old 09-05-2018, 08:52 AM   #138 (permalink)
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Can't wait for these to go production. This is the prototype, the actual hoods are going to be carbon fiber I think.

Do you still want your old hood? I still have it.
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Old 09-06-2018, 12:12 AM   #139 (permalink)
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I just noticed that you had two different clocking rings for the Atlas. I'm assuming one of those is the Dana 300 equivalent. Do you know which one you used with the 4L80E adapter?
I responded to your pm, I used them both bc I had them. They are both Atlas pattern, just gives you more options, and makes the Atlas really close to flat.
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Old 09-06-2018, 06:55 AM   #140 (permalink)
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Can't wait for these to go production. This is the prototype, the actual hoods are going to be carbon fiber I think.

I'll bite, Info on this? i want one.
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Old 09-06-2018, 09:02 PM   #141 (permalink)
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I'll bite, Info on this? i want one.
He goes by KEMP5432 on IG. I don't have his personal info. I'm sure he will hit me up as they progress with his info.
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Old 09-10-2018, 03:44 PM   #142 (permalink)
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Got the Goatbuilt accessories installed. I had to swap from the Vette alt to a FBody alt to fit the bracket, and it was still tight. Just have to swap the FBody balancer.


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Old 09-10-2018, 04:13 PM   #143 (permalink)
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If that oil cap is in the way, you can remove the neck and just use the cap. That's what I did. I used F body water pump/balancer/GoatBuilt brackets and a truck alternator. Just make sure your spacing is EXACTLY where it needs to be otherwise you will throw a belt off. I pitched mine 3 times prerunning behind camp at KOH before I realized it was a little off.

You can relocate your coil packs to help with clearance, also.
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Last edited by gtxracer; 09-10-2018 at 04:15 PM. Reason: because prerunnering isn't a word but should be
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Old 09-10-2018, 06:30 PM   #144 (permalink)
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If that oil cap is in the way, you can remove the neck and just use the cap. That's what I did. I used F body water pump/balancer/GoatBuilt brackets and a truck alternator. Just make sure your spacing is EXACTLY where it needs to be otherwise you will throw a belt off. I pitched mine 3 times prerunning behind camp at KOH before I realized it was a little off.

You can relocate your coil packs to help with clearance, also.
You can see the alternator already touches the oil fill neck. The cap wouldn’t fit unless I shave it down to no grips even with moving coil packs. The Vette alternator just drawfed this one in size and bolt spacing. I laid out several different ones on the counter till I found the right one that fit just right.

Last edited by sleepsontoilet; 09-10-2018 at 06:30 PM.
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Old 09-11-2018, 05:36 AM   #145 (permalink)
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You can see the alternator already touches the oil fill neck. The cap wouldn’t fit unless I shave it down to no grips even with moving coil packs. The Vette alternator just drawfed this one in size and bolt spacing. I laid out several different ones on the counter till I found the right one that fit just right.
I always throw the necks in the trash and put the cap directly into the valve cover.
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Old 09-11-2018, 09:23 AM   #146 (permalink)
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You can see the alternator already touches the oil fill neck. The cap wouldn’t fit unless I shave it down to no grips even with moving coil packs. The Vette alternator just drawfed this one in size and bolt spacing. I laid out several different ones on the counter till I found the right one that fit just right.
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I always throw the necks in the trash and put the cap directly into the valve cover.
This is what I was saying. Take the neck off, discard, put on just the cap, and you have tons of room.
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Old 09-11-2018, 10:33 AM   #147 (permalink)
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This is what I was saying. Take the neck off, discard, put on just the cap, and you have tons of room.
That's what I'm saying. I already tried that and it doesn't fit. Not sure if this painted cap is aftermarket or what, but it doesn't fit. You can't get the oil cap alone on. I'm looking into finding a smaller cap, but this "Cap" hits everything to the extent it will not even go in, let alone twist in.
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Old 09-11-2018, 10:45 AM   #148 (permalink)
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That's what I'm saying. I already tried that and it doesn't fit. Not sure if this painted cap is aftermarket or what, but it doesn't fit. You can't get the oil cap alone on. I'm looking into finding a smaller cap, but this "Cap" hits everything to the extent it will not even go in, let alone twist in.
How about flipping the valve covers side to side?

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Old 09-11-2018, 10:50 AM   #149 (permalink)
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How about flipping the valve covers side to side?

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This.



This is a jhf chassis as well. Can't say if anything is different or not, I've just got this valve cover on a junk yard motor to keep trash out temporarily.



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Old 09-22-2018, 04:02 PM   #150 (permalink)
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Finally some good progress thanks to Chris Roes. He hooked me up with a sweet link/ram mount front and rear. Just gotta add some gussets and fab up some links.


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