Nord-Lock Wedge-Locking Washers.....the scoop? - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
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Old 12-12-2018, 12:09 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Nord-Lock Wedge-Locking Washers.....the scoop?

https://www.nord-lock.com/nord-lock/products/washers/

Are these "safe" to use in place of the cotter pin, on TRE's?
The reason I ask is..........

When I ream the fj80 pitman arm for a Chev 1 ton DRE, there will be a gap of approx .250" between the pitman arm surface and the bottom of the castle nut.

I could fill the gap with a stack of washers, a hardened steel "spacer", drill another cotter pin hole in the DRE, or use Nord Wedge Washers......and maybe some red loctite on the castle nut.

Anyone used the Nord Washers before?

Thots please.
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Old 12-12-2018, 12:24 PM   #2 (permalink)
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https://www.nord-lock.com/nord-lock/products/washers/

Are these "safe" to use in place of the cotter pin, on TRE's?
The reason I ask is..........

When I ream the fj80 pitman arm for a Chev 1 ton DRE, there will be a gap of approx .250" between the pitman arm surface and the bottom of the castle nut.

I could fill the gap with a stack of washers, a hardened steel "spacer", drill another cotter pin hole in the DRE, or use Nord Wedge Washers......and maybe some red loctite on the castle nut.

Anyone used the Nord Washers before?

Thots please.

I use them at like $1.70 a pop on my 4400 car. pricey but I have never had one back out. Never used one on a TRE.
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Old 12-12-2018, 12:54 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I use them at like $1.70 a pop on my 4400 car. pricey but I have never had one back out. Never used one on a TRE.
What application? Torque?

Thanks.
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Old 12-12-2018, 01:47 PM   #4 (permalink)
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They're absolutely amazing. But pricey. I run them on 3rd members, driveshafts, unit bearings, caliper bolts, and a few other places. They just don't come loose.
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Old 12-12-2018, 02:00 PM   #5 (permalink)
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If your using these in place of a cotter pin. Id say no. In addition to Id say yes.
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Old 12-12-2018, 02:13 PM   #6 (permalink)
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If your using these in place of a cotter pin. Id say no. In addition to Id say yes.
Same.

If you don't want to run both, I'd opt for the hardened steel washer as a spacer. Keeps the grip length of the TRE proper.
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Old 12-12-2018, 04:14 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Drill a new hole, run a cotter pin, takes 5 min
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Old 12-12-2018, 06:32 PM   #8 (permalink)
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They have these holding door panels on ambulances. They still loosen. I have a little drawer cube full of them. They look nice. They are only #10. Probably never use them. I used blue loctite instead.
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Old 12-12-2018, 06:39 PM   #9 (permalink)
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As a lock washer they rock. Use a hardened spacer.
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Old 12-12-2018, 06:43 PM   #10 (permalink)
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They have these holding door panels on ambulances. They still loosen. I have a little drawer cube full of them. They look nice. They are only #10. Probably never use them. I used blue loctite instead.
well I can't imagine they would work very well in that application. Don't think many door panels have torque specs.
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Old 12-13-2018, 03:50 AM   #11 (permalink)
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I buy them through mcmaster, I don't think they're that expensive for the benefit they provide.
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Old 12-13-2018, 05:34 AM   #12 (permalink)
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My ram is attached to my diff cover and every variation of lock washer and locktight did little to help it from coming loose. I ended up just tightening them before the trail each morning.

Nord-Locks solved that problem. The top one still gets a little loose but its barely a 1/4 turn.
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Old 12-13-2018, 03:36 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Ive used 100's of them in place of a cotter pin and never had one issue. Only issue I had was they are hard as hell to get back off when you need to.
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Old 12-13-2018, 06:13 PM   #14 (permalink)
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well I can't imagine they would work very well in that application. Don't think many door panels have torque specs.
They are simple metal on metal with riv nuts and machine screws. Pretty sure they were all left loose enough to back out. With a out 30 screws per door. Idk. Fancy washer, thread lock works better. I would never use either to replace a cotter pin though.
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Old 12-13-2018, 09:08 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Use a stover with them. Be fine.
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Old 12-13-2018, 10:02 PM   #16 (permalink)
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They are simple metal on metal with riv nuts and machine screws. Pretty sure they were all left loose enough to back out. With a out 30 screws per door. Idk. Fancy washer, thread lock works better. I would never use either to replace a cotter pin though.
you have to have a bolt that is torqued for them to work not just tight. That application I don't think has enough torque to allow them to work. AVE did a neat video on them.
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Old 12-13-2018, 11:14 PM   #17 (permalink)
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i just use old u bolt nut washers as a spacer when i have that problem with tre nuts
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Old 12-14-2018, 12:57 PM   #18 (permalink)
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As a lock washer they rock. Use a hardened spacer.
i'd agree with this. if you have the ability to make a spacer, then you should have the ability to measure it accurately enough to get it right and you can just use the cotter pin for easier service without worry
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Old 12-14-2018, 01:18 PM   #19 (permalink)
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I'll prolly go with spacers.
The guys at EMF said that in order to drill another hole, a carbide burr is needed to start it, then onto a cobalt drill.

Buying a carbide burr is just one more thing to have to buy.........
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