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Old 12-13-2018, 11:16 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Best Dana 60 knuckle upgrade...

What would you buy and why? Prices are all over the ballpark. Are the higher priced ones worth the money? How about the cheap ones no name ones on ebay? I just looked and saw at least four...are these any good as an upgrade? I can post links but was not sure if thats allowed here.

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Old 12-14-2018, 12:01 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Crane, solid and reed. Who else makes them besodes dana take offs?
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Old 12-14-2018, 12:08 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Crane, solid and reed. Who else makes them besodes dana take offs?
Id stick with the three listed^ and avoid the no name ebay ones.
I went with solid when i did mine because of the 6 top bolts and the integrated key way that the others do not have.
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Old 12-14-2018, 12:37 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I think its spelled Reid
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Old 12-14-2018, 07:13 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I've had good luck with my Solids for 8 years or so on the front and just went with them for the rear. Seems like the best price in that category and the keyway made it my pick. Can't go wrong with any of the big 3 names though as far as I've seen.
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Old 12-14-2018, 07:41 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Are you breaking knuckles or???
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Old 12-14-2018, 08:26 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I'm very happy with my Dedenbear knuckles. That's how long I've had mine.

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Old 12-14-2018, 09:17 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I am a Reid fan boy, They were the first and IMO still the best.

I saw someone on facebook those yellow no name brands are being toted as being made at the same place as Reid, I called people I know at Reid and they do not sell any "House" brand knuckles to anyone. Reid is only made by for Reid.
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Old 12-14-2018, 01:03 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Welder Bills knuckles for the win
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Old 12-14-2018, 01:15 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I went with solid, cheapest of the 3 bling brands, probably just because you don't have to pay for flashy powder coating because they are very high quality. 6 studs and keyed. I don't like how thier arms use the springs, so I added artec arms.

Can anyone give a reason why one is better than the other? Who uses what material?

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Old 12-14-2018, 01:51 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I went with solid, cheapest of the 3 bling brands, probably just because you don't have to pay for flashy powder coating because they are very high quality. 6 studs and keyed. I don't like how thier arms use the springs, so I added artec arms.

Can anyone give a reason why one is better than the other? Who uses what material?
I have Crane C's and knuckles. My understanding is they are made from 8620 CroMo.
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Old 12-14-2018, 03:16 PM   #12 (permalink)
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My buddy I wheel with has broken two "used" stock knuckles in probably 18 years and just now upgrading the to a higher output PSC steering pump so now a bit more worried. I think the last time one broke it on the coal chute at Hollister Hills and it was like a six hour process to get the rig back onto the trailer. Just getting the trailer situated near by was a process in itself. So looking for hopefully a "one time solution" even if it costs a bit more to be more reliable.

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Old 12-14-2018, 09:43 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Dedenbear with a added double shear
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Old 12-15-2018, 05:44 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Dedenbear with a added double shear
Those knuckles allow double shear or of the box. Seems like a lot of work for not much gain.
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Old 12-15-2018, 10:10 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Those knuckles allow double shear or of the box. Seems like a lot of work for not much gain.
Not sure what you meant to say there about a box, however ...Not much work at all..... Pretty much the same double shear as ARTEC
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Old 12-15-2018, 10:14 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Not much work at all..... Pretty much the same double shear as ARTEC
and better rock crawler ackerman that what the artec style induce.
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Old 12-15-2018, 10:43 AM   #17 (permalink)
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I should clarify why its an easy upgrade and not to claim credit for the idea. WFO concepts sells the brackets for GM Reids. They built some for my son a several years back and I liked them so I put them on last year. Its now a product they offer but I don't think they are listed on their website . I have seen them on display at the shop.
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Old 12-19-2018, 12:49 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Have had 100% good luck with Solid knuckles/arms. Love the design and the price. I have also never seen a Crane knuckle break. I have seen a couple of D44 Reid knuckles fail on big heavy JKs running big tires, but the kingpin D60 knuckles seem bulletproof.

Be mindful that most aftermarket knuckles require a bit of clearancing.
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Old 12-19-2018, 09:32 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Have had 100% good luck with Solid knuckles/arms. Love the design and the price. I have also never seen a Crane knuckle break. I have seen a couple of D44 Reid knuckles fail on big heavy JKs running big tires, but the kingpin D60 knuckles seem bulletproof.

Be mindful that most aftermarket knuckles require a bit of clearancing.
Clearancing of what?
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Old 12-20-2018, 01:35 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Glenn, Kent may need some of your help fixing his front end, IIRC you had come up with a solution to the problem he experienced with the pass side leaf spring retention. Looks nice my friend, mo pics of the new mods please.
Hi-jack apologies.
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Old 12-20-2018, 03:10 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Clearancing of what?
Often one or more of the following:
* Aftermarket shafts sometimes rub (especially with Yukons or RCVs).
* Clearancing is often needed to even get stock steering angle with factory shafts.
* Clearancing often required to fit 3/4-ton and 1-ton Calipers.

Be mindful that aftermarket knuckles have a GREAT DEAL of additional material on them over factory knuckles. Add larger aftermarket shafts to the equation, and the grinder often needs a long relationship with your expensive new knuckles. RCVs especially often require a lot of clearancing of aftermarket knuckles and Cs (the Cs often contact the boot). Its easy to do and is recommending by the manufacturers if needed. I have had to clearance several pairs of Solids and Reids.

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Old 12-21-2018, 12:25 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Often one or more of the following:
* Aftermarket shafts sometimes rub (especially with Yukons or RCVs).
* Clearancing is often needed to even get stock steering angle with factory shafts.
* Clearancing often required to fit 3/4-ton and 1-ton Calipers.

Be mindful that aftermarket knuckles have a GREAT DEAL of additional material on them over factory knuckles. Add larger aftermarket shafts to the equation, and the grinder often needs a long relationship with your expensive new knuckles. RCVs especially often require a lot of clearancing of aftermarket knuckles and Cs (the Cs often contact the boot). Its easy to do and is recommending by the manufacturers if needed. I have had to clearance several pairs of Solids and Reids.
Makes sense. I have Yukon chromo that I clearanced forever ago
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Old 12-21-2018, 12:34 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Glenn, Kent may need some of your help fixing his front end, IIRC you had come up with a solution to the problem he experienced with the pass side leaf spring retention. Looks nice my friend, mo pics of the new mods please.
Hi-jack apologies.
Here John
https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyo...e-my-40-a.html
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Old 12-21-2018, 07:46 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Solids get my vote for the keyway.
Iíve had them since 2010 or 2011. Had to clearance a bit for the brake line with stock d60 calipers.

Those eBay knuckles look interesting has any one tried them?
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Old 12-21-2018, 09:04 AM   #25 (permalink)
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I have also never seen a Crane knuckle break. I have seen a couple of D44 Reid knuckles fail on big heavy JKs running big tires,
Not an apples to apples compare, Crane does not make a JK 44 knuckle.
I also searched around and I could not find any broken JK 44 reid knuckles.
There are have been some other broken 44 and 60 knuckles, but anything can blow if you try hard enough.
I'd also bet there are 1000 Reid knuckles sold for ever 1 crane or solid
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