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Old 01-05-2019, 06:39 PM   #1 (permalink)
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3rz in a 87 squarebody with megasquirt.

Here is the craptastic rough drawing of what is running through my head.



I want to gut the electrical of my 87 Chevy square body and run a divorced 3rz on mega squirt and the 700r4 on micro squirt or a switch. Then run a 3 speed brownie behind the 208 to have some fun in 2wd. The thing will be a dog in 4wd and I am ok with that. Thing keeps the transmission happy, the transfer case happy and the brownie happy.
End of the day this about simplicity and making the thing cake to work on. I want to run a 3rz I just don't know which one to start with.

Going to keep this as short as possible and let the craptastic drawing do the talking even though it does not show the engine divorced the rest is there.

I have spent a couple days on martin reading through the entire thread as well as other threads and various videos learning about adjusting the valves;

The Official 3RZ Knowledge and Database Thread

I still have questions about what 3rz is best to run with megasquirt so here I am to get some advise from people who are not starting with a Toyota to cut a harness from.

I want the torque low like real low. The 700rr4 has a 2200 stall which is nice with the 3.42 gearing having me feathering the throttle most of the time.

I believe the 2 coil pack makes the lowest torque. But I want to also run this thing on e85 and have the possibility of running around 9psi of boost into this so would like to start with a engine capable of being controlled under that manner and would like to know if the 4 coil pack would be better. There is some tech out on injector swapping to run boost, header setups, intake design 4/8 and frankly head porting and other tips that I just don't know about. But want to know more about.

Can I swap heads to different blocks(4 coil head on a dizzy block etc), intakes, exhaust, and so on to get the lowest torque or am I better off going with a simple 2 coil and running it on ms3 or newer system making it work.

I believe I can make any of the 3rz's work with ms3 or newer I just want to know which one will be the most compatible and yet still allow the best control of boost so I am not wishing I had a 4 coil one instead of a dizzy one kind of deal.

At this point I want advise on a good stock engine to work with ms3 or newer that will do what I want later. Thinking start with a with a good head and go slight overbore on the bottom just enough to freshen the walls but leave the rest of the bottom end stock. Run the thing on megasquirt 3 or newer keeping things simple.
Run the thing NA for a while saving up a bankroll and getting some tech on head and turbo combinations. Maybe build another 3rz if I find one cheap enough and building that for 7-9psi on e85. But keeping the electrical a plug and play deal from one engine to the next.


Yes I am crazy for not putting a LS in it.
I like a overhead engine and the 3rz has has a torque curve I love and a solid bottom end. It is small enough to swim in that engine bay keeping things simple, cheap, and reliable.

Ok now that is out of the way I would like some advise on which 3rz to keep an eye out for please.
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Old 01-05-2019, 07:24 PM   #2 (permalink)
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you should look for the dirt shit cheapest one that you can buy to start with, then get it fully machined and reworked, set up for the boost and controller out the gate.

hit up the craigslist/junkyard/FB Marketplace for somebody parting out a shit 4runner


edit: or a 2rz on ~15-20 psi instead of 3rz on 5-10 psi
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Old 01-05-2019, 07:42 PM   #3 (permalink)
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you should look for the dirt shit cheapest one that you can buy to start with, then get it fully machined and reworked, set up for the boost and controller out the gate.

hit up the craigslist/junkyard/FB Marketplace for somebody parting out a shit 4runner


edit: or a 2rz on ~15-20 psi instead of 3rz on 5-10 psi
Wtf? Why?

You know brownie boxes rob power right?

What's the goal, just waste money and make noise?

I like 3rzs and square bodies, but not together.

At least use a 2jz to make real power.
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Old 01-05-2019, 07:46 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Wtf? Why?
.
dude is dead set on building a 3rz square body for some ungodly reason, for that reason alone he should start with the absolute worst one out there, because if he wastes and extra couple hundred buying a 'good running one' then spends the same money rebuilding it to do what he wants, he will have wasted that extra couple hundred

i don't think an import 4cyl is a good option for a fullsize truck.

hell, i'm not sold the fancy new ecoboost is a good option for a fullsize truck, despite millions of dollars in design and testing
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Old 01-05-2019, 07:50 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I dont get the point of a brownie in this situation.
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Old 01-05-2019, 10:31 PM   #6 (permalink)
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dude is dead set on building a 3rz square body for some ungodly reason, for that reason alone he should start with the absolute worst one out there, because if he wastes and extra couple hundred buying a 'good running one' then spends the same money rebuilding it to do what he wants, he will have wasted that extra couple hundred

i don't think an import 4cyl is a good option for a fullsize truck.

hell, i'm not sold the fancy new ecoboost is a good option for a fullsize truck, despite millions of dollars in design and testing
I didn't mean to quote you on the last post.

Funny you mention the ecoboost, we just bought a 2.7 ecoboost F150. Which ironically I have been joking about it being the same size as a 3rz. So far its been great, but it also doesn't have a 600 lb brownie box between the tranny and tcase
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Old 01-05-2019, 10:51 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Full toyota drivetrain in a K10 short bed wouldnt weigh much more than a normal tacoma so it might not be bad pairing to just do something simple. If yours is a long box add about 200lbs I'd bet.
Years ago I had a cobbled together k10 shortbed
V8 305\th350+np208\10 bolts front and rear\fiberglass hood\alloy wheels\31's
was right around 4000-4100 at local dump if I remember right (15 years ago though so run numbers yourself lol) and I keep thinking my 1997 tacoma reg cab 4x4 3rz 5spd with alloy\31's was right around 3700-3800, if you figure the drivetrain swap reduces weight a bit it gets pretty close.

3rz + R150 maybe for strength if boosting, if auto is something you wont budge on the stock auto toyota transmissions usually hold up ok as long as weight and tire size is kept in check. With 3.42's I would seriously hope you are keeping tire size to a minimum.

My suggestion would be save the $ from brownie box and 700r4 setup and just run toyota motor+trans+transfer with something like 3.73-4.10 and 31's you will just have to use a non tacoma transfer for passenger side front shaft.

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Old 01-05-2019, 11:22 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I dont get the point of a brownie in this situation.
My brownie weighs in at 160lbs wet was ran in 6600trucks.

The point of the brownie is to make up for the lack of torque the 3rz has stock. I can drive around with the brownie in low and have the equivalent of a 5.19 rear axle. Transmission will shift at 12,22, and 36 mph
Get up to around 50 at 2200rpm and shift it into direct to drop that rpm down around 1700ish then rev that up to around 2000 at 70 mph. That high is more for if I feel like going with lower gears later or using the transfer case low.

The with the transfer case in low and the brownie in direct I basically run it to around 30 at 2200 and shift into high then run it into high all the way up to 70 around 3600. I could also just leave it the brownie into direct and spin the engine up to 5100 around 70 before shifting into high and dropping the rpm down to 3600 that way.

Running the stock235/75r15 tires currently. Thing could run front and rear 14 bolts with 5.13 gearing and I would still be within the limits of the engine rpm. That gearing would just allow for larger tires.

This pile is not meant for the highway. Most of my driving is done around 60 mph I could drive around with the transfer case in low, brownie in direct or high, and front hubs disconnected to just have some fun.



I just want a simple 4 cylinder engine. Reliability and ease of maintenance comes far ahead of impressing anyone in my book. It is a square body it is expected to be slow. I might as well make it easy to work on. Keep the valves set, LCE balance shaft removal throwing out some parts, and simple timing chain kit and the thing should be good for a while.
The NA 3RZ makes 120ft/lbs around 2000 rpm and only looses around 10ft/lbs by 5500. I am looking for advise to run that engine using mega squirt with potential for boost placing me around 300ft/lbs later so this is more of a plug and play thing and I am not hacking up the harness to run a different style of head.

Last edited by cerial; 01-05-2019 at 11:33 PM.
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Old 01-06-2019, 10:46 AM   #9 (permalink)
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so you are trying to get an extra 180 lb-ft of torque with 5psi of boost

good luck with some seriously high dollar re-working, and at the level good luck getting rock solid ease and reliability.

https://www.customtacos.com/forum/13...er-limits.html

check out that thread, it even has a dyno chart from a guy who is running ~17psi and breaks 300 lb/ft around 3k rpm
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Old 01-06-2019, 11:59 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Jesus christ, my head hurts.

You want to replace a carved small block gm with a modern 4cyl with aftermarket efi and a turbo to simplify the truck and make it easier to work on?
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Old 01-06-2019, 12:05 PM   #11 (permalink)
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You can buy crashed 5.3 truck for like $1500, I don’t get it. Sounds way too complicated for me, and backwards.
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Old 01-06-2019, 12:21 PM   #12 (permalink)
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You can buy crashed 5.3 truck for like $1500, I donít get it. Sounds way too complicated for me, and backwards.
And probably get better drivability and better mileage. A 5.3 with nv4500/241 would fill all his needs and then some. And actually make the truck worth more.

Every couple of months someone comes on here with a hair brained idea and only one time I can think of the op followed through and posted videos of it when done.

Op pm toyotajohn this would be up his alley.
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Old 01-06-2019, 12:34 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Or at least just drop in a Toyota trans/tcase and regear the axles.
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Old 01-06-2019, 12:44 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Jesus christ, my head hurts.

You want to replace a carved small block gm with a modern 4cyl with aftermarket efi and a turbo to simplify the truck and make it easier to work on?
There is nothing simple about a turbo swap and computer swap on an engine. Itís going to require more maintenance than stock by a long shot. OP is a moron.
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Old 01-06-2019, 01:05 PM   #15 (permalink)
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OP is a moron.
Main thing in all of this.
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Old 01-06-2019, 08:21 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Op put down the glass dick! Youíre going to take 300 truck put 10k in it to make a worth tree-fidy and it will never run the way you want or intend. Might as well start with a tdi out of vw with your sleep deprived idea.
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