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Old 01-22-2019, 07:30 PM   #26 (permalink)
mj
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Quote:
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Check out this site. Is Full Hydraulic Steering legal

Several people on this site have Street Legal Vehicles that have Full Hydraulic Steering.


YMMV.
I wish those people would post more and help the rest of us figure out how to live with hydro

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Old 01-22-2019, 07:47 PM   #27 (permalink)
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All it takes is a lot of reading, and a lot of phone calls to PSC or Howe to make it livable.

A good understanding of hydraulic theory doesn't hurt either. lol.

On the topic at hand. If you want a triangulated 4-link in front you most likely have to have Full Hydro Steering.
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Old 01-22-2019, 08:55 PM   #28 (permalink)
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If you want to run a 4 link and a steering box , run a link from the box back to a bellcrank on the frame, at the frame end of the four link bar and run a link forward to the knuckle in a Chevy push pull arrangement. You would need a box with an arm that could be indexed to be perpendicular to the frame or hangs down and swings front to back like a semi truck box does. It would work just fine. I think hydro would be easier to do but this could get you where you want to be.
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Old 01-22-2019, 08:58 PM   #29 (permalink)
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I have a YJ on tons, double triangulated 4 link front and rear. All heims are 1.25, 2x.250lowers and 1.75x.120 uppers. Full hydro and drive on the street with 42s actually drives better then did before with factory steering. Not my everyday driver but not afraid to drive on street I do inspect everything more then most.
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Old 01-23-2019, 06:43 PM   #30 (permalink)
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There's always Poison Spyder's mechanical steering.
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Old 01-24-2019, 06:46 AM   #31 (permalink)
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If you want to run a 4 link and a steering box , run a link from the box back to a bellcrank on the frame, at the frame end of the four link bar and run a link forward to the knuckle in a Chevy push pull arrangement. You would need a box with an arm that could be indexed to be perpendicular to the frame or hangs down and swings front to back like a semi truck box does. It would work just fine. I think hydro would be easier to do but this could get you where you want to be.
pete 359 style
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Old 01-24-2019, 12:09 PM   #32 (permalink)
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What it sounds like is I should re-consider the 4-link front and maybe go to a 3-Link with Panhard bar front and a Double Triangulated 4-Link for the rear? or switch the rear to 3-Link Also?

Looking further, it sounds like the 3-Link would solve the issue with bump steer using a standard gear box. That seem to address most of the issues talked about here?

Then the next question would be, on a 3-Link, what sort of link ends are people recommending? and tube diameters?

Thank you all again for your help

If you're dead set on running a steering box, as it sounds like you are, then the 3-link w/panhard would be your best bang for the buck. Or, you could still run a 4-link, you just wouldn't add the triangulation to the links. I'd go 3-link though.

As has been said, there are ways to run the double triangulated 4-link with a steering box, but it's much more involved and requires more moving parts. It doesn't sound like you're wanting to travel down that path though.

As far as link size goes between 3 and 4 links. Lowers would be the same, beefy enough for the vehicle to sit on them. I'd make the upper on a 3-link a bit stronger than what would be used for a 4-link because now you have one link taking the tension/compression forces as compared to two.
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Old 01-24-2019, 04:37 PM   #33 (permalink)
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If you're dead set on running a steering box, as it sounds like you are, then the 3-link w/panhard would be your best bang for the buck. Or, you could still run a 4-link, you just wouldn't add the triangulation to the links. I'd go 3-link though.

As has been said, there are ways to run the double triangulated 4-link with a steering box, but it's much more involved and requires more moving parts. It doesn't sound like you're wanting to travel down that path though.

As far as link size goes between 3 and 4 links. Lowers would be the same, beefy enough for the vehicle to sit on them. I'd make the upper on a 3-link a bit stronger than what would be used for a 4-link because now you have one link taking the tension/compression forces as compared to two.
GT1Guy, thanks for the reply, I guess Im not dead set on steering box, but looking at hydro,it looks like $1500 and up to be set up unless I'm missing something.
If I'm trying to build this on somewhat of a budget, it seems like a 3-Link, panhard bar, crossover steering with a steering box would be the best bet, wouldn't it?
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Old 01-24-2019, 04:39 PM   #34 (permalink)
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A three link with pan hard and conventional steering box will be the most cost effective way to go.
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Old 01-24-2019, 10:05 PM   #35 (permalink)
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GT1Guy, thanks for the reply, I guess Im not dead set on steering box, but looking at hydro,it looks like $1500 and up to be set up unless I'm missing something.
If I'm trying to build this on somewhat of a budget, it seems like a 3-Link, panhard bar, crossover steering with a steering box would be the best bet, wouldn't it?
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A three link with pan hard and conventional steering box will be the most cost effective way to go.
^^^^^This^^^^^

For your intended use......
Quote:
Not interested in doing super aggressive or high speed rock bouncing, more or less just exploring mild trails, desert, forest, etc, maybe even overland style stuff.
....the 3-link/panhard/ steering box would be the way to go.


What size tires?
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Old 01-24-2019, 11:03 PM   #36 (permalink)
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What size tires?
I'm planning on running just 37" Tires.

Also... Is there a magic number I should be thinking for shock length too? Or just get suspension built first and see how much articulation I end up with?
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Old 01-25-2019, 08:50 AM   #37 (permalink)
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Not really, just check your articulation. Tires until they hit and droop til you driveline binds then get the shocks that fit where you plan to put the mounts.
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Old 01-25-2019, 09:28 AM   #38 (permalink)
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Unless I can come up with a hydro system on a budget, it kinda sounds like I will go down the 3-Link path.
So if that is the case, for the 3-Links, it sounds like folks would recommend 2"x.25 DOM for lowers, and probably for the upper as well? and the panhard bar, like ?1.75"X.120 DOM? Flex joints of HEIMS everywhere? and avoid using bushings? That seem to be the consensus?
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Old 01-25-2019, 09:40 AM   #39 (permalink)
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1.75" is fine for the upper and overkill for the pan hard. 1.25" or if you feel you need more strength 1.5". You can use 2"x.25" for the upper as it only cost you about $20 more then 1.75x1.20, they will add more then twice the weight though.

I would base end joints on overall travel and the amount of misalignment you need. Heims will give you more misalignment but you likely wont need it. They also can get noisy if things like that bother you. A basic Johnny joint should be enough unless your brackets are not welded on straight or you have massive travel. Synergy and Metal Cloak offer their joints as builder parts that give you the quiet, self centering, strong bushing you could put at the frame side and use a ball/socket joint at the axle. They both offer more misalignment then a typical bushing will have. The Metal Cloaks are softer and flex a bit easier then the synergy do. Cost on either is high when compared to a typical bushing that is offered by many companies.

I run the Metal Cloak joints at the frame end of my rig with a double triangulated rear and 3 link front and 18" travel shocks. I don't have any issues with binding from the joints. On the axle end I run ballistic forged, johnny joints, and 1 Heim.
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Old 01-28-2019, 09:18 AM   #40 (permalink)
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1.75" is fine for the upper and overkill for the pan hard. 1.25" or if you feel you need more strength 1.5". You can use 2"x.25" for the upper as it only cost you about $20 more then 1.75x1.20, they will add more then twice the weight though.

I would base end joints on overall travel and the amount of misalignment you need. Heims will give you more misalignment but you likely wont need it. They also can get noisy if things like that bother you. A basic Johnny joint should be enough unless your brackets are not welded on straight or you have massive travel. Synergy and Metal Cloak offer their joints as builder parts that give you the quiet, self centering, strong bushing you could put at the frame side and use a ball/socket joint at the axle. They both offer more misalignment then a typical bushing will have. The Metal Cloaks are softer and flex a bit easier then the synergy do. Cost on either is high when compared to a typical bushing that is offered by many companies.

I run the Metal Cloak joints at the frame end of my rig with a double triangulated rear and 3 link front and 18" travel shocks. I don't have any issues with binding from the joints. On the axle end I run ballistic forged, johnny joints, and 1 Heim.

Thanks DirtMan, Lots of good info
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