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Old 07-30-2019, 06:27 PM   #151 (permalink)
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Killer as always, itís gonna take me a lot longer with tin work to make panels that nice! Do you buy card board or just old boxes? Iíve found that the card board makes the biggest difference in quality of templates.
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Old 07-30-2019, 06:45 PM   #152 (permalink)
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Killer as always, itís gonna take me a lot longer with tin work to make panels that nice! Do you buy card board or just old boxes? Iíve found that the card board makes the biggest difference in quality of templates.
I buy picture framing backer from hobby lobby or Michaels. 33x40 I think, about $4 a sheet. Brakes nice, rigid enough, strong enough to drill and use clecos (carefully), and near the same thickness as 063 alum. I use a razor and ruler for straight sides, and long, straight tin snips for curves.

Agreed, closer the template material is to the material your working with the better. I haven't used regular old packaging cardboard in years.

Stock Car Steel, where I buy tubing, sells template material, but I've never used or seen it.

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Old 08-04-2019, 05:48 PM   #153 (permalink)
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Long week manipulating metal...





















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Old 08-04-2019, 08:35 PM   #154 (permalink)
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I buy picture framing backer from hobby lobby or Michaels. 33x40 I think, about $4 a sheet. Brakes nice, rigid enough, strong enough to drill and use clecos (carefully), and near the same thickness as 063 alum. I use a razor and ruler for straight sides, and long, straight tin snips for curves.
Good tech there! That's really what I need to do. I've been using big sheets of cardboard I get between the aluminum when I order it. It's not that great.

Looking at weekend work, I need to play with my bead roller more.

Thanks for sharing.
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Old 08-04-2019, 08:57 PM   #155 (permalink)
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Check out ram board at home depot or the like. Works awesome for templates been using it for years.
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Old 08-04-2019, 09:07 PM   #156 (permalink)
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Old 08-05-2019, 05:28 AM   #157 (permalink)
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Check out ram board at home depot or the like. Works awesome for templates been using it for years.
I've used it when I run out of the other. Maybe I've had the wrong thing, but it came on a roll and was a bit more difficult to keep flat. Much thinner than the aluminum. I do use it when I'm replicating a curve, it folds on the shrink areas really nice.

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Old 08-05-2019, 07:35 AM   #158 (permalink)
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Yes it's on a roll. Trick is cut it into 3 or 4 ft long pieces before you need it. I usually cut 4 or 5 big pieces off roll and lay it flat under my workbenches on ground. After a day it's nice and flat. Easy to use.
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Old 08-08-2019, 01:58 PM   #159 (permalink)
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Damn dude, your work always makes me feel like a hack!
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Old 09-11-2019, 04:34 PM   #160 (permalink)
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Boy, I have neglected my shop thread the past month...

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Old 09-11-2019, 04:35 PM   #161 (permalink)
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Old 09-11-2019, 06:03 PM   #162 (permalink)
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Awesome work as usual. Your tin work always makes me want to head out to the shop and play with my bead roller some more. What did you use to secure the triangular vent on the front inner fender? I couldn't blow up the image enough to tell? I like using stainless steel button heads, but always looking for new ideas. I've benn thinking about getting the stuff to do some actual rivets for something different.
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Old 09-11-2019, 06:07 PM   #163 (permalink)
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Awesome work as usual. Your tin work always makes me want to head out to the shop and play with my bead roller some more. What did you use to secure the triangular vent on the front inner fender? I couldn't blow up the image enough to tell? I like using stainless steel button heads, but always looking for new ideas. I've benn thinking about getting the stuff to do some actual rivets for something different.
Thanks!

1/8 alum solid rivets



And I thoroughly enjoy doing them.

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Old 09-11-2019, 06:56 PM   #164 (permalink)
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Thanks!

1/8 alum solid rivets



And I thoroughly enjoy doing them.

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Great work as always.

Where did you get that hexagon metal?
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Old 09-11-2019, 07:16 PM   #165 (permalink)
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Awesome work.

How much travel will this buggy be getting in the rear end with the shorter coilovers and trailing arms?


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Old 09-11-2019, 08:01 PM   #166 (permalink)
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God it looks so good what do you sand the panels with?
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Old 09-11-2019, 09:01 PM   #167 (permalink)
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Great work as always.

Where did you get that hexagon metal?
Thank you!

I cut that on the plasma table, hence the pattern being stopped on the triangle sides. I also bead rolled a flange to raise the honeycomb flush with the cutout.
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Awesome work.

How much travel will this buggy be getting in the rear end with the shorter coilovers and trailing arms?


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I haven't cycled the suspension yet, chassis came to me as a roller from M & M fab, Pj knows what he's doing!

I'll cycle it soon, before I build the actual trailling arms, just to double check clearances. But it should net 20"~ wheel travel in the rear, easily.
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God it looks so good what do you sand the panels with?
3-400 grit wet/ dry paper. If it's all scratched up, I use a grinding wheel of solid red scotchbrite. Then I final the grain with red scotchbrite by hand.

Thanks guys!

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Old 09-12-2019, 04:43 PM   #168 (permalink)
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Awesome work as usual. Your tin work always makes me want to head out to the shop and play with my bead roller some more. What did you use to secure the triangular vent on the front inner fender? I couldn't blow up the image enough to tell? I like using stainless steel button heads, but always looking for new ideas. I've benn thinking about getting the stuff to do some actual rivets for something different.
Forgot to mention,

Solid rivets are super cheap, pennies on the dollar versus nice button or panhead fasteners and nut certs. A little more labor to do them right, but the results are worth it.

Obviously provided the panel is to remain fixed.

And I'm using Eastwood cheapo rivet set and backer bar.

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Old 09-12-2019, 08:43 PM   #169 (permalink)
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Forgot to mention,

Solid rivets are super cheap, pennies on the dollar versus nice button or panhead fasteners and nut certs. A little more labor to do them right, but the results are worth it.

Obviously provided the panel is to remain fixed.

And I'm using Eastwood cheapo rivet set and backer bar.

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Thanks for the extra details, I was going to ask about that as I was starting to do some research into what was needed to start playing. Time to order some more tools
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Old 09-12-2019, 09:46 PM   #170 (permalink)
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Thanks for the extra details, I was going to ask about that as I was starting to do some research into what was needed to start playing. Time to order some more tools
No problem. After I did my first panel or two, I did spend a little more on layout tools- rivet fan, counter sinks, auto center punch, rivet cutter- so you can order 1/2 length and cut to cover nearly any thickness you may fasten.

This stuff certainly isn't needed for the do it yourself, but to be more efficient for profit.

Good places to start: and get ready if your a tool freak to be overwhelmed...

www.rivetsinstock.com

www.aircraft-tool.com

www.hansonrivet.com

And of course mcmaster-carr

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Old 09-13-2019, 05:21 PM   #171 (permalink)
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Love it, thanks for the updates!
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Old 09-13-2019, 08:40 PM   #172 (permalink)
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Love it, thanks for the updates!
Thanks Ryan!

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Old 11-25-2019, 04:18 PM   #173 (permalink)
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Man I've fallen behind..

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Old 11-25-2019, 04:20 PM   #174 (permalink)
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Custom parts require custom homemade tools. Having #cncplasma for a year now has really expanded my thinking and love of fixturing to easier build more accurate and distinctive parts. I recently built this kick ass I- beam axle housing fixture along with fixtures for the @weldtables . And rather than having this large apparatus take up space when not in need, I decided it could double as a rotisserie for building trailing arms. I came up with this so I may simultaneously build and weld both arms at the same time with the cooling time between welds being shared. Not to mention spun around for the most comfortable welding position.



Trailing arms incoming..
















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Old 11-25-2019, 04:22 PM   #175 (permalink)
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