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Old 04-08-2019, 10:09 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Bending 7075 links in tube bender

Yes, its been done but I cant remember who did it

Looking for feedback on this and how it worked out for the bender. Any bent pins or failures? I can make new pins but making new arms would be a pain. I only need 10-15 degrees so I can clear the frame on my TJ. I could probably triangulate the lower links but Id have to redo the entire mounts and I like my geometry at the moment.

Looking to do 2 7075 lowers and uppers. Currently run 2x.250 wall Heretic fab lowers and 1.75x.120 uppers with JJs. I know of one 4500 car that runs these but they bought the car with them installed. I asked WOD to make the links and bend them but theyre scared to do the bends. I might ask again if they can bump up to 2.25 or larger and feel comfortable doing it. Anyone want to try some 2.25 or 2.5 diameter 7075 bends for me?
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Old 04-08-2019, 10:14 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Go get you a harbor freight pipe kinker and give it a whirl. Alot of guys been there .25+ wall links with them. Video it JIC.
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Old 04-09-2019, 05:50 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Go get you a harbor freight pipe kinker and give it a whirl. Alot of guys been there .25+ wall links with them. Video it JIC.
X2 the HF kinker. They work really well on thick-wall steel (I've done 2".495 wall with no drama) --I've never tried 7075 though.
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Old 04-09-2019, 08:07 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Go get you a harbor freight pipe kinker and give it a whirl. Alot of guys been there .25+ wall links with them. Video it JIC.
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X2 the HF kinker. They work really well on thick-wall steel (I've done 2".495 wall with no drama) --I've never tried 7075 though.
Didn't think of that. I see a 12T kinker in my future
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Old 04-09-2019, 10:50 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Would cracking be an issue? Maybe throw a little heat into them in the bend zone?
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Old 04-09-2019, 11:44 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Rock krawler suspension did an 1.75" 7075 upper for me, you could give them a call.
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Old 04-09-2019, 12:01 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Rock krawler suspension did an 1.75" 7075 upper for me, you could give them a call.
Bent or straight?
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Old 04-09-2019, 12:21 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Maybe use your die in a press instead of a bender or kinker. Solid will not kink actually. The key will be making a shoe for the bottom that will not squirt out when you press the die down. Someone in your neighborhood probably has a 50 ton press that should do it. Warming to 250-300*f might help. Usually aluminum has about half it's strength around 350- 450* True annealing doesn't happen until the 600-700* range.

"Warming the material to 250 F will greatly assist formability." Speedy metals.
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Old 04-09-2019, 01:49 PM   #9 (permalink)
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After going through the options, I've decided that bending 2.0" x .250 wall 4130 will be an easier task. We have a heat treat oven here that should fit. If not, I know a place that can heat treat for us after welding. Links are shorter, about 24", so should not be a problem. I'm now deciding if I want to use a typical bung with step or machine a pinch bung (pictured below).
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Old 04-09-2019, 01:53 PM   #10 (permalink)
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It's a bent one for the upper on a rear 3 link, it's to clear a cross member at full bump.
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Old 04-09-2019, 02:20 PM   #11 (permalink)
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What's wrong with the links you have?
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Old 04-09-2019, 04:16 PM   #12 (permalink)
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What's wrong with the links you have?
Nothing except not bent

I can anneal them to bring them back to normalized state. Requires 1525F for an unknown soak time. Mine are also cryo frozen which I am unsure how that effects annealing. If I can get them into the normalized state I could possibly bend them. I believe I'd have enough thread engagement to try this. I'll do some measuring and report back.
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Old 04-09-2019, 04:22 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Ah! I see. I thought you had them in and "working" just wanted to replace with aluminum.
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