Broken top leaf spring on lifted chevy with 44" boggers??? - Page 2 - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
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Old 06-20-2019, 09:55 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Thank you! That is good news for once.
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Old 06-20-2019, 10:08 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Question

Not sure if I should start a new thread for this next question???

I know a lot of you are going to hate this and I have been dreading asking it but,
We are going to lift the truck another 5 inches. We already purchased brand new 49" Iroks and this plan has been in the making for over 5 years!

What would be the best way to go about lifting it another 5 inches without spending a million dollars?
Use these leaf springs? Add to them?
My husband was thinking about adding it to the shackles by fabricating steel with braces and welding.
He said he is starting to get the impression that, that would be a no no or a hack job?
We already at some point are changing the front axle to a 1 ton......it's a 3/4 in the front. 1 ton in the rear.

Wanted to mention....he isn't willing to cut the fenders etc. One way or another he is going to lift it 5 more inches.😁

I know it's not a lot of people's taste, but please keep in mind.....it's ours and we have helped many people with things that weren't our cup of tea......to each their own right?
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Old 06-20-2019, 11:13 PM   #28 (permalink)
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best way would be to build a sub frame like you see with super tall gay mud trucks

build cross members/sub frames to move all 8 leaf spring mounts down 5 inches, like was already done with the very front leaf spring cross member
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Old 06-21-2019, 02:40 AM   #29 (permalink)
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How will 5" more lift make it better?
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Old 06-21-2019, 06:35 AM   #30 (permalink)
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just add 5" shackles
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Old 06-21-2019, 07:05 AM   #31 (permalink)
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just add 5" shackles
That would only give them 2.5", better make it 10" shackles.


Seriously though, what brakes is this thing running? Is the goal here to just have a big gay truck or is there a need to have the ground clearance of 49" tires or is this just some mall crawling, gay pride fantasy? If you need the clearance you would be much better off fixing what you have, possibly upgrading a few things and cutting the fenders out for clearance. When off road, a big tall truck is a liability and will more often that not end up on it's side unless all you want to do is play in mud puddles like a kid. As for 5 years of planning, that was more than enough time to find out that big gay trucks are gay. It was also more than enough time to learn about suspension design and to find out what works and what doesn't. But to me it looks like all you did was find a '89 and older truck to cobble together to get a ridiculous lift and skate by NY's bumper height laws.
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Old 06-21-2019, 07:17 AM   #32 (permalink)
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Make frame drop down brackets for the front hanger and shackles. A few inches longer spring will be better. Buy some Skyjacker 4" lift Chevy rear springs for the front. They will ride better and less likey to break.
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Old 06-21-2019, 09:00 AM   #33 (permalink)
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I did notice something new......the front rear shackle on the driver's side is at a different angle then the front rear shackle on the passengers side.
Not sure if it happened when the spring broke, but I just noticed it.
This last picture is the opposite side front passengers. That front rear shackle is coming downward and back a little.....the other side with the broken spring is way back as if the spring pushed or moved it.


Without going into a full geometry lesson, this is how a shackle works. A leaf spring with significant arch will get longer as it flattens. The shackle moves back to let the suspension flex. Also since your spring is broken and separated by an inch or more along with being flatter, your shackle is maxed out. It also causes the front axle to more rearward as the suspension compresses which can further complicate driveshaft length. This is also why these guys are bashing high lift leaf springs.

Not knowing who did that SAS there are several things that need to be checked out. The front axle appears to be clocked up for less driveshaft angles which requires a CV joint. Also if the knuckles were not cut and rotated back down then you have a negative caster angle. If the plan is one tons and bigger lift then all these issues can be addressed then. In the mean time the broken spring, bent tie rod, and possible negative caster make this thing unsafe to drive.

Now if we ignore the horrible idea of going higher instead of cutting fenders and just focus on clearing the tire size:
If you have rear springs up front, just buy taller rear springs and install huge bump stops and accept that you have no suspension and will ride like a forklift. You can also add body lift which will keep everything as is but with more tire clearance. Neither of these are good mods nor will they make the truck more capable.
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Old 06-21-2019, 11:23 AM   #34 (permalink)
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Make frame drop down brackets for the front hanger and shackles. A few inches longer spring will be better. Buy some Skyjacker 4" lift Chevy rear springs for the front. They will ride better and less likey to break.
That. Buy lift rear springs and put them up front since that seems to be what was used up front. 85 1/2ton rear lift leafs installed up front should be a guessed application. But I’d stick with what it has since it “works” currently. More lift and 49’s are going to equal steering problems and front driveshaft is going to be real expensive unit from high angle driveline. They make custom 38 degree plus flanged shafts.
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Old 06-21-2019, 09:03 PM   #35 (permalink)
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That. Buy lift rear springs and put them up front since that seems to be what was used up front. 85 1/2ton rear lift leafs installed up front should be a guessed application. But Id stick with what it has since it works currently. More lift and 49s are going to equal steering problems and front driveshaft is going to be real expensive unit from high angle driveline. They make custom 38 degree plus flanged shafts.
Thanks guys! We really do Appreciate the info!😊 We now have an idea of how we are going to do the suspension.
As far as the brakes go, it has 4 wheel disk brakes that barely fit with the 15 inch wheels that are on it.....they seem pretty good, but if they end up needed work they will definitely get addressed!

We are going through the whole truck .
Also Corey ........ Thanks again for giving us solid knowledgeable answers without being judgemental! I can't express how much we appreciate that !
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Old 06-21-2019, 09:06 PM   #36 (permalink)
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That. Buy lift rear springs and put them up front since that seems to be what was used up front. 85 1/2ton rear lift leafs installed up front should be a guessed application. But Id stick with what it has since it works currently. More lift and 49s are going to equal steering problems and front driveshaft is going to be real expensive unit from high angle driveline. They make custom 38 degree plus flanged shafts.
Thank you for the info! It gives me a bit more to look into. I really wish there were off road shops in our area, but there really is nothing that we have been able to find.
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Old 06-21-2019, 09:07 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Without going into a full geometry lesson, this is how a shackle works. A leaf spring with significant arch will get longer as it flattens. The shackle moves back to let the suspension flex. Also since your spring is broken and separated by an inch or more along with being flatter, your shackle is maxed out. It also causes the front axle to more rearward as the suspension compresses which can further complicate driveshaft length. This is also why these guys are bashing high lift leaf springs.

Not knowing who did that SAS there are several things that need to be checked out. The front axle appears to be clocked up for less driveshaft angles which requires a CV joint. Also if the knuckles were not cut and rotated back down then you have a negative caster angle. If the plan is one tons and bigger lift then all these issues can be addressed then. In the mean time the broken spring, bent tie rod, and possible negative caster make this thing unsafe to drive.

Now if we ignore the horrible idea of going higher instead of cutting fenders and just focus on clearing the tire size:
If you have rear springs up front, just buy taller rear springs and install huge bump stops and accept that you have no suspension and will ride like a forklift. You can also add body lift which will keep everything as is but with more tire clearance. Neither of these are good mods nor will they make the truck more capable.
Thank you as well! This did help me get a better understanding.
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Old 06-21-2019, 09:08 PM   #38 (permalink)
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best way would be to build a sub frame like you see with super tall gay mud trucks

build cross members/sub frames to move all 8 leaf spring mounts down 5 inches, like was already done with the very front leaf spring cross member
That's kinda the idea we were originally thinking.😁
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Old 06-23-2019, 09:24 AM   #39 (permalink)
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See my edit in the above post. And no, I outgrew the whole big gay truck thing a long time ago. Too much time spent laying under trucks with dried mud falling in my eyes whenever something broke.



Also, looking at the broken spring, that spring has been broken for a long time. It looks like there may be salt on it, which would accelerate any corrosion, but that break is clearly rusted through on both pieces with no visible shiny metal. That means it's been broken completely long enough for it to rust to that extent.
I realize this is pirate but you are talking to a lady. Consider being a gentleman in your responses.

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Old 06-23-2019, 10:15 AM   #40 (permalink)
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What does a big gay truck have in common with being a lady?

If she drives that I’m sure she can handle Pirate.

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See my edit in the above post. And no, I outgrew the whole big gay truck thing a long time ago. Too much time spent laying under trucks with dried mud falling in my eyes whenever something broke.



Also, looking at the broken spring, that spring has been broken for a long time. It looks like there may be salt on it, which would accelerate any corrosion, but that break is clearly rusted through on both pieces with no visible shiny metal. That means it's been broken completely long enough for it to rust to that extent.
I realize this is pirate but you are talking to a lady. Consider being a gentleman in your responses.

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Old 06-23-2019, 10:40 AM   #41 (permalink)
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I reconsider going with less lift and trimming the fenders. Section them properly and they'll look factory and proportional to the 49" tires. Otherwise it'll look odd with the new/larger tires.

Also, what size wheel are you running with the new tires? Looks like iroc's come in 16.5's, 17's & 20's.

What steering setup do you have currently?
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Old 06-23-2019, 11:16 AM   #42 (permalink)
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Shut the fuck up faggot. Not a word in his post was derogatory. Big gay truck is a big gay truck.
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Old 06-23-2019, 11:36 AM   #43 (permalink)
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Old 06-23-2019, 12:30 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Without a torque arm/anti-wrap of some sorts, I cannot see leafs living for long with big tires.
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Old 06-23-2019, 01:19 PM   #45 (permalink)
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Consider kissing my fucking ass, noob. I didn't say anything rude to her, but luckily you came along flapping your cock holster so I can tell you to drink bleach and go fuck a blender.
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Old 06-23-2019, 10:13 PM   #46 (permalink)
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Old 06-23-2019, 10:15 PM   #47 (permalink)
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Without a torque arm/anti-wrap of some sorts, I cannot see leafs living for long with big tires.
That's all there in the rear. When the 1 ton gets put on the front that will be taken care of also. You may be able to see if you can zoom in enough in the recently added pic.
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Old 06-23-2019, 10:22 PM   #48 (permalink)
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I reconsider going with less lift and trimming the fenders. Section them properly and they'll look factory and proportional to the 49" tires. Otherwise it'll look odd with the new/larger tires.

Also, what size wheel are you running with the new tires? Looks like iroc's come in 16.5's, 17's & 20's.

What steering setup do you have currently?
I know exactly what you mean! Seems even worse to me on the shorter wheel base Chevy trucks.
We dont have the wheels yet for the 49"s, but we got tires for the 16.5 inch wheels. It's looking like we are going to be having custom wheels made.

As far as the steering set up......as dumb as I sound.....I have no idea. I no it's not hydraulic is all I really know. It's steers pretty well with the 44"s unless the truck isn't moving, then it strains a bit.....I'm open to recommendations though?

Last edited by Jenfred10; 06-23-2019 at 10:25 PM.
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Old 06-23-2019, 10:33 PM   #49 (permalink)
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Without going into a full geometry lesson, this is how a shackle works. A leaf spring with significant arch will get longer as it flattens. The shackle moves back to let the suspension flex. Also since your spring is broken and separated by an inch or more along with being flatter, your shackle is maxed out. It also causes the front axle to more rearward as the suspension compresses which can further complicate driveshaft length. This is also why these guys are bashing high lift leaf springs.

Not knowing who did that SAS there are several things that need to be checked out. The front axle appears to be clocked up for less driveshaft angles which requires a CV joint. Also if the knuckles were not cut and rotated back down then you have a negative caster angle. If the plan is one tons and bigger lift then all these issues can be addressed then. In the mean time the broken spring, bent tie rod, and possible negative caster make this thing unsafe to drive.

Now if we ignore the horrible idea of going higher instead of cutting fenders and just focus on clearing the tire size:
If you have rear springs up front, just buy taller rear springs and install huge bump stops and accept that you have no suspension and will ride like a forklift. You can also add body lift which will keep everything as is but with more tire clearance. Neither of these are good mods nor will they make the truck more capable.
Speaking of what you said here...........we had to move the truck because we sold our house for more acres and our going to live in this trailer for a year and build a new house.............

Anyways........check out this new pic I posted. You are right on the money! If you look at the front wheel and tire, it looks pushed back and not centered in the wheel well anymore.
That's since the spring broke on that front side.
Also, it's probably hard to tell in that pic, but the front on that side is sitting a good 4-5 inches lower since it broke.
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Old 06-24-2019, 07:00 AM   #50 (permalink)
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If you look at the front wheel and tire, it looks pushed back and not centered in the wheel well anymore.
That brings up something else to check into when replacing the springs/ lowering the mounts. Most SAS kits move the front axle forward an inch or two. Even with cutting the fenders to clear huge tires you can run into clearance issues with the cab near the door opening. The bumper however is easy to move/ replace so the farther forward the axle is the easier the tire clearance issue is on the front to address. Depending on the steering setup though you can go too far and run into drag link/ pitman arm clearance problems.
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